Odd spots on leafs (need zinc???) pls help!
- Thread starter Badzad
- Start date
Mother's Finest
Well-Known Member
Splotchy crispyness like what you have there is Phosphorus deficiency. The plants look great otherwise.
It may also be "Leaf Mold". It is similar to many other molds that start out in the root system and bloom when they come out of the poors of the leaves. They will usually hit the bottom leaves fist and you will eventurally see them all die until the plant is defoliated. It can hamper a plant in full swing growing great in veg. You should remove the leaf if it dies carefully. Don't let it touch your other plants or leaves. It can be controlled to some degree.
Here is what you can try first, before you start monkeying around with your soil mix guessing what it might be. Make a solution with H2O2 (regular old hydrogen peroxide, over the counter drug store item.) and pH adjusted nutral water (6.5 -7.0) at a strength of 50/50. Prepare your plant by letting the soil dry out until the plant, container, and soil mix all feel light but the plant is still not droopy. When your soil is ready take your plant into the bath tub and spay the heck out of all the leaves under and over. Next, take enough H202 to really soak the soil, one quart or more, and just soak the soal down good with it. Don't worry about it foaming, hissing, buzzing, or what ever it might do. Your plant and it's roots are in good hands, they may actually enjoy it, kind of like getting your hair washed and a scalp massage at the same time. The 3% hydrogen peroxide will not hurt your plant. It is like highly oxygenated water to them, but it will kill all the organisms in the soil, good or bad. If you have some additives you want to put back in to help grow new bennificial bacterier, then add it after you have flushed the plant out for a good fifteen minutes with soaking rinse in the shower. Like most people I usually get real fussy about my water, but if city water is all you have, then use it. You can finish the flush with two gallons of R/O (reverse osmossis) water once the show flush has drained off. It takes time to keep pooring in water and coming back, but it will help rinse out the chlorine, and chlorine is actually not a bad thing to help kill mold either, so let it rain and drain! You can prop the bottom of the plant up to help the holes drain better in the tub. I set mine on a couple bricks, but you can find something good to use around the house. You should treat your plants three or four more times durring the grow like this to really help control the mold. With a low relative humidity, good air flow inside your tent/box/room, and air exchange you should be able to spay your plants with this H2O2 solution right in the grow room too, but only after you have dosed the heck out of them first. You really need to hit the mold ASAP. It will keep cropping up and really make you, and your grow, misserable if you don't control it.
In veg (only, not in flowering) you should also consider using sulfur, mix the powder into a candle and burn it periodically, or buy a sulfur burner and treat the entire room, plants and equipment. When you burn sulfur it should not be breathed in. The fumes are sulfer dioxide and they are highly acidic, which helps to kill mold. You can burn or irritate your lungs, but this is really what the pro's do when treating their rooms. You should turn off your exhaust fans for 10 -15 minutes while the room fills up with fumes then air it out. If you live in an appartment building you might really consider not using this method as it will set off fire alarms and bring your neighbors around asking what smells so bad, like roughten eggs, that is why you don't do it in flowering, it will screw up the taste. Always turn off any air pumps for your water supply. If the air pumps take in the sulfur fumes it will drop your pH in your water/nutrient take so fast and hard that it will kill your plants. So, if you grow hydroponnically, then you need to turn off your air pumps. That goes for areoponnics and cloning machines too! Shut it all down for the treatment and wait until the fumes are all cleared out. The clones need to be treated too, with H2O2 in the solution, sprayed, and bombed with sulfur if you have the luxury to be able to do this.
If you must clone from an infected plant, then look for cloning sites at the higher levels several nodes higher then where you got the spots/rusting. The spores actually move up the plant and it takes time for it to happen. Usually higher level clones will be better locations to consider if you really feel the need to carry on the genetics, but it is easer to get another batch of seeds after this crop is finished and every thing is cleaned with H2O2 and bleach... When cloning dip the top, stem and all, upside down right into the H2O2. Swish it around, then go about your trimming, cutting, cloning gel, and perferd method of cloning form that point on; however, you need to add in the H202 spray even on the little clones every few days. You can control and actually get rid of some molds this way, but in general, until you start over and treat everything, clothes, carpets, and all, you might just be reinfecting the next batch. So, prevention is what is most important, next is taking a proactive appoach to really help stop/control the problem when it first rears it's ugly head.
Keep it dry, air moving, use the h202 sprays, and buy a germicidal UV bulb and treat your room with UV light 3 times a day for ten minutes with 30 minutes in between. Do not expose your skin to these bulbs. They have UV C, which is found above the clouds, it they rearrange DNA, so it kills mold, but it can kill you too. Maybe not today, but if you work in the room with the germicidal light on, or keep the tent doors open when they are cycling on and off, then you might need new lenses in your eyes in about a year, and you may also need chemo later on down the road. GE makes a standard 48" germicidal bulb G36T8 that is 36 watts, and goes into a cheap 48" long T8 fixture. These bulbs will also push the THC production of your plants dramatically. They cost $70 each and two can treat a 4x5 area. Let the CO2 rip when you cycle your germicidal bulbs and you will see the THC like you never could have throught possible out of some really average seeds. No joke, they are worth the money if you also pair them up with a good HPS Eye bulb. Make sure you don't have any high green spikes on the wave length charts for your HPS bulb, mix in a little blue light too 25% MH, and you have what it takes to play like the big boys. Many of the cheap chinese HPS lamps burn with high levels of green, and green wave lengths, around the 540ish nm range, stop photosynth in it's tracks. The reason you need blue is that when yellow/orange/red waves strike the Magnesium in leaf it bounces the molecule into a possition that requires blue light waves to actually bounce it back. This is what drives the energy process in the plants. Green light will actually over react with the plants and it requires so much energy to return the magnesium to it's resting possition that it shuts the system down. So, bottom line is no green light in your wave lengths if at all possible. Actually, a very very low level is required, but most HPS and MH should have enough in there. This is why Hortilux Eye bulbs are so expensive, they have the right wave lengths to keep the pumps a pumpin'. "HID HUT" HPS bulbs are cheaper and claim to have the same wave lengths as the Eye bulbs, but I can not confirm this. I still have my cheap Daul Arch MH and HPS 600 watt bulb that I am using with a germicidal bulb and CO2. Very happy with the dual arc bulb for both veg and flower, but considering adding in one HPS 600 watt hood next to this one for you 4x4 tent. That would give the perfect ratio for flowering. I plan to run this way in the future as it give the prefered 75/25 ratio of HPS/MH needed for optimum flowering. In veg I plan to run one single dual arc for early/pre veg, then switch to a single 600 watt MH late for late/maturing phase of veg, switching to the mixed HPS/MH set up for 12/12 flowering cycle. Then, for the last week after the flush period has finish, place the plants in total 24/0 darkness for one solid week. The only thing running in the last week's dark phase is the germicidal bulb(s) cycle three times per day. This will help push the last bit of THC production and keep the molds under control.
You can also use your germicidal bulb in a dryer box that is pressurized with O2. This curing controls mold and drives up the CBD, CBN, and CBG levels by oxydizing the THC. This means you can take a super high THC, low biproduct sativa strain and tweak, or dial in, the amout of couch lock you wish! Custom tailored weed. In hydro, you can also play around with fragrant oils like lemon oil in your nutrient rinses to give that nice hit of lemony freshness. Check it out, designer flavors, clean, dialed in, and super stratified levels of what ever floats your boat!
Gheeee, lemon cheese and on your knees!!!!
Here is what you can try first, before you start monkeying around with your soil mix guessing what it might be. Make a solution with H2O2 (regular old hydrogen peroxide, over the counter drug store item.) and pH adjusted nutral water (6.5 -7.0) at a strength of 50/50. Prepare your plant by letting the soil dry out until the plant, container, and soil mix all feel light but the plant is still not droopy. When your soil is ready take your plant into the bath tub and spay the heck out of all the leaves under and over. Next, take enough H202 to really soak the soil, one quart or more, and just soak the soal down good with it. Don't worry about it foaming, hissing, buzzing, or what ever it might do. Your plant and it's roots are in good hands, they may actually enjoy it, kind of like getting your hair washed and a scalp massage at the same time. The 3% hydrogen peroxide will not hurt your plant. It is like highly oxygenated water to them, but it will kill all the organisms in the soil, good or bad. If you have some additives you want to put back in to help grow new bennificial bacterier, then add it after you have flushed the plant out for a good fifteen minutes with soaking rinse in the shower. Like most people I usually get real fussy about my water, but if city water is all you have, then use it. You can finish the flush with two gallons of R/O (reverse osmossis) water once the show flush has drained off. It takes time to keep pooring in water and coming back, but it will help rinse out the chlorine, and chlorine is actually not a bad thing to help kill mold either, so let it rain and drain! You can prop the bottom of the plant up to help the holes drain better in the tub. I set mine on a couple bricks, but you can find something good to use around the house. You should treat your plants three or four more times durring the grow like this to really help control the mold. With a low relative humidity, good air flow inside your tent/box/room, and air exchange you should be able to spay your plants with this H2O2 solution right in the grow room too, but only after you have dosed the heck out of them first. You really need to hit the mold ASAP. It will keep cropping up and really make you, and your grow, misserable if you don't control it.
In veg (only, not in flowering) you should also consider using sulfur, mix the powder into a candle and burn it periodically, or buy a sulfur burner and treat the entire room, plants and equipment. When you burn sulfur it should not be breathed in. The fumes are sulfer dioxide and they are highly acidic, which helps to kill mold. You can burn or irritate your lungs, but this is really what the pro's do when treating their rooms. You should turn off your exhaust fans for 10 -15 minutes while the room fills up with fumes then air it out. If you live in an appartment building you might really consider not using this method as it will set off fire alarms and bring your neighbors around asking what smells so bad, like roughten eggs, that is why you don't do it in flowering, it will screw up the taste. Always turn off any air pumps for your water supply. If the air pumps take in the sulfur fumes it will drop your pH in your water/nutrient take so fast and hard that it will kill your plants. So, if you grow hydroponnically, then you need to turn off your air pumps. That goes for areoponnics and cloning machines too! Shut it all down for the treatment and wait until the fumes are all cleared out. The clones need to be treated too, with H2O2 in the solution, sprayed, and bombed with sulfur if you have the luxury to be able to do this.
If you must clone from an infected plant, then look for cloning sites at the higher levels several nodes higher then where you got the spots/rusting. The spores actually move up the plant and it takes time for it to happen. Usually higher level clones will be better locations to consider if you really feel the need to carry on the genetics, but it is easer to get another batch of seeds after this crop is finished and every thing is cleaned with H2O2 and bleach... When cloning dip the top, stem and all, upside down right into the H2O2. Swish it around, then go about your trimming, cutting, cloning gel, and perferd method of cloning form that point on; however, you need to add in the H202 spray even on the little clones every few days. You can control and actually get rid of some molds this way, but in general, until you start over and treat everything, clothes, carpets, and all, you might just be reinfecting the next batch. So, prevention is what is most important, next is taking a proactive appoach to really help stop/control the problem when it first rears it's ugly head.
Keep it dry, air moving, use the h202 sprays, and buy a germicidal UV bulb and treat your room with UV light 3 times a day for ten minutes with 30 minutes in between. Do not expose your skin to these bulbs. They have UV C, which is found above the clouds, it they rearrange DNA, so it kills mold, but it can kill you too. Maybe not today, but if you work in the room with the germicidal light on, or keep the tent doors open when they are cycling on and off, then you might need new lenses in your eyes in about a year, and you may also need chemo later on down the road. GE makes a standard 48" germicidal bulb G36T8 that is 36 watts, and goes into a cheap 48" long T8 fixture. These bulbs will also push the THC production of your plants dramatically. They cost $70 each and two can treat a 4x5 area. Let the CO2 rip when you cycle your germicidal bulbs and you will see the THC like you never could have throught possible out of some really average seeds. No joke, they are worth the money if you also pair them up with a good HPS Eye bulb. Make sure you don't have any high green spikes on the wave length charts for your HPS bulb, mix in a little blue light too 25% MH, and you have what it takes to play like the big boys. Many of the cheap chinese HPS lamps burn with high levels of green, and green wave lengths, around the 540ish nm range, stop photosynth in it's tracks. The reason you need blue is that when yellow/orange/red waves strike the Magnesium in leaf it bounces the molecule into a possition that requires blue light waves to actually bounce it back. This is what drives the energy process in the plants. Green light will actually over react with the plants and it requires so much energy to return the magnesium to it's resting possition that it shuts the system down. So, bottom line is no green light in your wave lengths if at all possible. Actually, a very very low level is required, but most HPS and MH should have enough in there. This is why Hortilux Eye bulbs are so expensive, they have the right wave lengths to keep the pumps a pumpin'. "HID HUT" HPS bulbs are cheaper and claim to have the same wave lengths as the Eye bulbs, but I can not confirm this. I still have my cheap Daul Arch MH and HPS 600 watt bulb that I am using with a germicidal bulb and CO2. Very happy with the dual arc bulb for both veg and flower, but considering adding in one HPS 600 watt hood next to this one for you 4x4 tent. That would give the perfect ratio for flowering. I plan to run this way in the future as it give the prefered 75/25 ratio of HPS/MH needed for optimum flowering. In veg I plan to run one single dual arc for early/pre veg, then switch to a single 600 watt MH late for late/maturing phase of veg, switching to the mixed HPS/MH set up for 12/12 flowering cycle. Then, for the last week after the flush period has finish, place the plants in total 24/0 darkness for one solid week. The only thing running in the last week's dark phase is the germicidal bulb(s) cycle three times per day. This will help push the last bit of THC production and keep the molds under control.
You can also use your germicidal bulb in a dryer box that is pressurized with O2. This curing controls mold and drives up the CBD, CBN, and CBG levels by oxydizing the THC. This means you can take a super high THC, low biproduct sativa strain and tweak, or dial in, the amout of couch lock you wish! Custom tailored weed. In hydro, you can also play around with fragrant oils like lemon oil in your nutrient rinses to give that nice hit of lemony freshness. Check it out, designer flavors, clean, dialed in, and super stratified levels of what ever floats your boat!
Gheeee, lemon cheese and on your knees!!!!