New cob light setup Citizen or vero 29S? looking for best bang for your buck chip

So Im new to cob lighting and I was wonder how do the citizen compare to the vero 29s.

The vero 29s are about the same as the citizen 1818s at 25 bucks

The citizen 1212's are $14

What's the best value between these chips I would like to run them passive but Im open to running active cooling if it really is worth it. (im just worried about them burning up if the fan craps out I dont want a fire I guess the chip would probably burn up rather fast and wouldn't be that much of a concern though)

My tent is a 4 by 4 to start off with Im going to be build a 4 cob light and add to it in later months. my budget is around $250

If you can save a bit more man you can build a top shelf light easily. If not just run some Citizen 1212's but with the smaller LED's I would run more and push them softer so it might be a wash in the end have to see.

Get yourself a mod420 frame from northern grow lights when they become available with (4) Vero 29's of the new gen, (4) pin heat sinks, one of Robin's Junction Boxes, and a mean well 320 driver of your choosing. With Wago connectors you don't even have to solder anything. Really easy to DIY if you plan things out correctly.

https://northerngrowlights.com/collections/all/products/sst120-passive-heatsink-kit

https://northerngrowlights.com/collections/all/products/bridgelux-gen-7-vero-29-cob

https://northerngrowlights.com/collections/all/products/mod-420-horticulture-cob-lighting?variant=25008807304

Now before someone goes off the deep end about the 120MM pin sinks not ebing enough, in this case they would be because the design of the frame also aids in cooling. I have a similar setup running in a 3x3 with the 140mm's and it's overkill, I can leave my hand on the driver and any heat sink for as long as I want and no burning or discomfort.

Just my $0.02

There are many ways to skin a cat. You need to do some reading and see which side of the LED camp you're on first then go from there. Some people believe more COB's run softer, other's believe less COB's pushed harder.

Another option within your budget is to just rock the house with a 600w HPS man, easy to fit into your budget. Not going to be the popular answer but always an option.

Something like this is within your budget now and will grow great buds in that size space for years to come. You could later add the Blue MH for veg and kill it even more.

So basically what I am saying is go 600W HPS with $250 or less, or save like $100-$125 more and build a killer Vero 29 light.

Cheers and good luck

Okay so vero 29s it is i want to go with 4000k how many watts should i be aimming for with these? I would like to push them hard and add morewhen i have more money i can add more chips and push them softer.

Thanks for the info

I'd aim for the 80-100w range per COB if it was me.

Cool so deff need to go active cooling then? What happens if the fan stops working the chip just burns out? should not cause a fire or anything correct?

I am running my 3590's with pin heat sinks brother you don't "have to" go active cooling at all:

Evil-Mobo said:

I am running my 3590's with pin heat sinks brother you don't "have to" go active cooling at all:

Click to expand...

Thats awesome thanks for all the info!

depends if you are running extruded bars or discrete heat sinks. on a straight chip basis multiple 1212s are cheaper but you can eat up that advantage in heatsinks and holders quickly.

1818 and the lower voltage vero 29 gen 7 cost about the same and perform about the same, both run right in line with cxb3590

Evil-Mobo said:

If you can save a bit more man you can build a top shelf light easily. If not just run some Citizen 1212's but with the smaller LED's I would run more and push them softer so it might be a wash in the end have to see.

Get yourself a mod420 frame from northern grow lights when they become available with (4) Vero 29's of the new gen, (4) pin heat sinks, one of Robin's Junction Boxes, and a mean well 320 driver of your choosing. With Wago connectors you don't even have to solder anything. Really easy to DIY if you plan things out correctly.

https://northerngrowlights.com/collections/all/products/sst120-passive-heatsink-kit

https://northerngrowlights.com/collections/all/products/bridgelux-gen-7-vero-29-cob

https://northerngrowlights.com/collections/all/products/mod-420-horticulture-cob-lighting?variant=25008807304

Now before someone goes off the deep end about the 120MM pin sinks not ebing enough, in this case they would be because the design of the frame also aids in cooling. I have a similar setup running in a 3x3 with the 140mm's and it's overkill, I can leave my hand on the driver and any heat sink for as long as I want and no burning or discomfort.

Just my $0.02

There are many ways to skin a cat. You need to do some reading and see which side of the LED camp you're on first then go from there. Some people believe more COB's run softer, other's believe less COB's pushed harder.

Another option within your budget is to just rock the house with a 600w HPS man, easy to fit into your budget. Not going to be the popular answer but always an option.

Something like this is within your budget now and will grow great buds in that size space for years to come. You could later add the Blue MH for veg and kill it even more.

So basically what I am saying is go 600W HPS with $250 or less, or save like $100-$125 more and build a killer Vero 29 light.

Cheers and good luck

Click to expand...

that wouldn't cover a 4x4....

frankslan said:

So Im new to cob lighting and I was wonder how do the citizen compare to the vero 29s.

The vero 29s are about the same as the citizen 1818s at 25 bucks

The citizen 1212's are $14

What's the best value between these chips I would like to run them passive but Im open to running active cooling if it really is worth it. (im just worried about them burning up if the fan craps out I dont want a fire I guess the chip would probably burn up rather fast and wouldn't be that much of a concern though)

My tent is a 4 by 4 to start off with Im going to be build a 4 cob light and add to it in later months. my budget is around $250

Click to expand...

You going to need about 5x more budget to cover a 4x4 properly with COBs.

You need something like this for a 4x4...

http://timbergrowlights.com/600-watt-cree-cxb3590-4x4-framework/

Yodaweed said:

that wouldn't cover a 4x4....



You going to need about 5x more budget to cover a 4x4 properly with COBs.

You need something like this for a 4x4...

http://timbergrowlights.com/600-watt-cree-cxb3590-4x4-framework/

Click to expand...

I'm sorry, how many grows in a 4x4 with COB's have you done? What drivers, COB models, were being used? Was it a DIY light or pre built? Complete specs? Strain gorwn under the lights and how many total watts at the wall? What type of optics were used etc? What setup was it you used that was not sufficient to cover a 4x4 with COBs in the 400-450 watt range?

Thanks

Evil-Mobo said:

I'm sorry, how many grows in a 4x4 with COB's have you done? What drivers, COB models, were being used? Was it a DIY light or pre built? Complete specs? Strain gorwn under the lights and how many total watts at the wall? What type of optics were used etc? What setup was it you used that was not sufficient to cover a 4x4 with COBs in the 400-450 watt range?

Thanks

Click to expand...

what does that have to do with what I said....wtf

You make blanket statements and have no proof, so how can you know what I said won't cover an area when you have never tried to cover said area with said watts? Exactly WTF you say no but you have no clue stop spreading bad info.

Evil-Mobo said:

You make blanket statements and have no proof, so how can you know what I said won't cover an area when you have never tried to cover said area with said watts? Exactly WTF you say no but you have no clue stop spreading bad info.

Click to expand...

Been using LEDs for 4 years, don't got to explain myself to a noob like yourself, that light you posted would barely cover a 3x3.

I use 16 3590's run at 800w max in 15 sq ft. I end up with 4 plants in 5 gal promix and the area has solid walls and it is stuffed. I usually run 700w give or take depending on height from plants. One month veg 2 months bloom give or take. Very good growth. A bit expensive and I would recommend the citizens or the new veros for the price. I do like my 3590's run north of 45 watts.

Been using LEDs for 4 years, don't got to explain myself to a noob like yourself, that light you posted would barely cover a 3x3.

Click to expand...

You can't explain because you have nothing to back your statement lol.

So once again good job.

I have 600 watts covering a 5x4.5, and 250 watts covering a 3x3, with the right light properly setup there's no reason 400-450 watts if straights COB's would not cover a 4x4 area.

4 years of using blurples doesn't count either LOL!

Evil-Mobo said:

You can't explain because you have nothing to back your statement lol.

So once again good job.

I have 600 watts covering a 5x4.5, and 250 watts covering a 3x3, with the right light properly setup there's no reason 400-450 watts if straights COB's would not cover a 4x4 area.

4 years of using blurples doesn't count either LOL!

Click to expand...

If you push the cobs hard yea you might be able to light more space but then why bother with LEDs...and I never even seen a single plant you grew so yea I don't think you got a lot of experience you just spew off about hypothetical stuff.

frankslan said:

Okay so vero 29s it is i want to go with 4000k how many watts should i be aimming for with these? I would like to push them hard and add morewhen i have more money i can add more chips and push them softer.

Thanks for the info

Click to expand...

I'd go 3000k , 1400 mah . You could build a light for around 250 bucks with 4 vero 29's arctic alpine active cpu coolers as heatsinks and a meanwell driver add another cob and heatsink and run at 1050 for about 35 bucks more....

Because you still generate less heat than comparable HID lighting and get more light to the canopy while consuming less electricity overall in the grow. I have been able to put away my portable A/C by only switching over half the flower tent to COB's.......... even if this leads to let's say a 20% lower yield but bud that has better terps and 60-70% of the electricity being used compared to before on just the lights, minus a Portable A/C running 24/7, this all starts to add up.

The lighting itself is just part of the picture. I'm not chasing efficiency on paper the worst performing but properly BUILT COB LED light built with solid drivers and COB's (MW, Cree, Citizen, Vero, Etc) will still be more efficient than the HID lights. The end result (ie: growing buds) is the goal.

Evil-Mobo said:

You can't explain because you have nothing to back your statement lol.

So once again good job.

I have 600 watts covering a 5x4.5, and 250 watts covering a 3x3, with the right light properly setup there's no reason 400-450 watts if straights COB's would not cover a 4x4 area.

4 years of using blurples doesn't count either LOL!

Click to expand...

You are correct. I am not a very good grower but I can vary my cobs from over 900w to 400 w. The bud density and total weight I get from the area is best for me at around 700 w for my 15 sq ft. It's not linear but I need around 1000g every 3 months. This fits my needs. 400 didn't. And I have 4 different strains so weight can vary. ymmv

dandyrandy said:

You are correct. I am not a very good grower but I can vary my cobs from over 900w to 400 w. The bud density and total weight I get from the area is best for me at around 700 w for my 15 sq ft. It's not linear but I need around 1000g every 3 months. This fits my needs. 400 didn't. And I have 4 different strains so weight can vary. ymmv

Click to expand...

Thanks for providing actual feedback from a real grow, much appreciated. The variation you speak in your grow as far as watts goes is why I am a supporter of the dimmers with these LED light setups.