need to know something from whole building growers

hey

ok i am in the middle of putting up my own grow room
36x24x12
good size building

now i like some feed back are there any ppl out there that have converted a whole building into a grow room

1 i am need to know does the floor need to be concrete to get a good seal to build up Co2 gas
1a or can a skirt work (u know 3 feet of concrete borader building walls sit on it but the up floor is packed earth and pea gravel)

yes i need to add CO2 .....944 ft above sea level southern side of the moutain the outdoor should do well but the indoor is so going to need the CO2 for the weight return

that is the part i am on now if i do need to have a slab then i need to order that and set it up ....but if i can get away with a skirt on it then i can order that and set up the ppl to build the building at the same time

(slab will be a week or 2 to dry before building ) oregon rain

I'd go for a 6" slab, good gravel base with vapor barrier under some 5/8"s rebar. Drain your footings properly, and make sure they're placed below your average frost line. You'll most likely regret not doing it. I wouldn't expect any building to be airtight, but a concrete floor vs dirt will save you quite a bit of headache in the future.

in a new steel barn, dirt sand floor, vapor barrier, raised wood deck floor, moisture barrier, linoleum. walls are steel/tar paper/foil bubble foil/tar paper, r30, plywood-white kills paint. I brought my ceiling height down to 11 feet and capped it with moisture barrier, foil bubble foil, plywood, moisture barrier, blown insulation, moisture barrier. 12/12 c02 with no issues. sealed , no mold/heat/rh/cooling issues, heating is 220 baseboard digi thermos in each room, 12k btu ac keeps it crispy-12x 40

chemphlegm said:

in a new steel barn, dirt sand floor, vapor barrier, raised wood deck floor, moisture barrier, linoleum. walls are steel/tar paper/foil bubble foil/tar paper, r30, plywood-white kills paint. I brought my ceiling height down to 11 feet and capped it with moisture barrier, foil bubble foil, plywood, moisture barrier, blown insulation, moisture barrier. 12/12 c02 with no issues. sealed , no mold/heat/rh/cooling issues, heating is 220 baseboard digi thermos in each room, 12k btu ac keeps it crispy-12x 40

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I'm curious. Are you growing with HID's or LED's?
Also, are you having any humidity issues?
I currently grow is a 50 ft x 30 ft grow space (converted house). We have LED's. Exhaust all hot air and run dehuey's. Temp is between 75 to 80 and humidity is 55-60. Going to construct a new building that has concrete floor and all walls and ceiling will have spray foam insulation of R30. Will install HVAC. Trying to find out if anyone else has a set up like this and does not require additional Dehuey's to run with AC to keep humidity down. I'm in Oregon where humidity is high in winter and low in summer.

i remove about 4 gallons of water with my ac unit every 24 hours and another gallon or two with my dehumidifier. I use 4k hid in flower and 1-2 485 watt t5's in veg. I've no humidity issues inside the sealed room . hope helps

sonson176 said:

I'd go for a 6" slab, good gravel base with vapor barrier under some 5/8"s rebar. Drain your footings properly, and make sure they're placed below your average frost line. You'll most likely regret not doing it. I wouldn't expect any building to be airtight, but a concrete floor vs dirt will save you quite a bit of headache in the future.

Click to expand...

damn i was so hoping ...... 19 yards of concrete

chemphlegm said:

in a new steel barn, dirt sand floor, vapor barrier, raised wood deck floor, moisture barrier, linoleum. walls are steel/tar paper/foil bubble foil/tar paper, r30, plywood-white kills paint. I brought my ceiling height down to 11 feet and capped it with moisture barrier, foil bubble foil, plywood, moisture barrier, blown insulation, moisture barrier. 12/12 c02 with no issues. sealed , no mold/heat/rh/cooling issues, heating is 220 baseboard digi thermos in each room, 12k btu ac keeps it crispy-12x 40

Click to expand...

have to look into that see the cost if the concrete is more then that might be the option

dkfowler1972 said:

I'm curious. Are you growing with HID's or LED's?
Also, are you having any humidity issues?
I currently grow is a 50 ft x 30 ft grow space (converted house). We have LED's. Exhaust all hot air and run dehuey's. Temp is between 75 to 80 and humidity is 55-60. Going to construct a new building that has concrete floor and all walls and ceiling will have spray foam insulation of R30. Will install HVAC. Trying to find out if anyone else has a set up like this and does not require additional Dehuey's to run with AC to keep humidity down. I'm in Oregon where humidity is high in winter and low in summer.

Click to expand...

hey so am i .....does this mean i should not teach what i know so u do not take the biz from the shops or should i say fuck it best man wins ......fuck it

mini splits ........they are god sent if u think about where u set them
just make sure u invest in a 20.5 seer or higher unit to get the money worth out of it ........but as for venting your air out of the place u will just need to convert to a CO2 system


ok i am half guessing u have slide windows ........if not it works with any window just correct for the miswordings
go to the store and get some good marine plywood / black spray paint
u come home u measure out the window and cut the board to fit in the window sil but it lets u keep the window close (like 6 or 8 inches )
once it is cut spray on side of it BLACK this is camo so it is not a glaring thing to ppl
now set the dehumidifiers up high near the window.....drill a small hole in the wood and put the drain tube out the window down near ground .....set it to 50%
as the water comes in it drains out so u do not need to worry about it anymore .......just make sure u set the fans up in the room to make a vortex of air(this will keep the room 50% spread the heat out in the air and make the cooling more effective )

combine that with the minisplit own dehumid u have made a evo controlled area

adding CO2 into the system will naturally increase the RH .......but honestly CO2 is worth it the weight returns are so much better with it then with out