Need help venting veg + bloom room

Hello I am in the process of building a 8x12 insulated room for my babies

Here is 2 of them from my 400w 4x5 tent..They want more space!

Anyways heres what im dealing with..
8x6.5' bloom room, 8x5.5' veg room, separated with panda plastic..I plan on 1000w in the bloom room for now..Should i go for an air cooled hood or non air cooled?Outside temps here currently are between 40night and 50-60days..Come summer time I shouldnt see anything above 80 too often if it does..usually mid 70's..I am having trouble figuring out the most efficient way to keep my room at optimum temps considering the outside temps and how much air flow is gonna be going through. Obiviously night time temps may be a problem come the colder parts of the year..any suggestions?
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bumpbump

I am buying fans on payday ( The 3rd next week ) and have basically the exact size room as yours and I have a new vented 1000 watt fixture to install. My thread is here >> https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/320012-happy-birthday-me-today-med-5.html

Soooo....I am very intrested in the same subject as you and will be checking back. The fans and ducting will complete my room almost so I am pretty stoked to get it done. Good luck with your project.

Grasshopper

love2gro said:

Hello I am in the process of building a 8x12 insulated room for my babies
View attachment 962621
Here is 2 of them from my 400w 4x5 tent..They want more space!

Anyways heres what im dealing with..
8x6.5' bloom room, 8x5.5' veg room, separated with panda plastic..I plan on 1000w in the bloom room for now..Should i go for an air cooled hood or non air cooled?Outside temps here currently are between 40night and 50-60days..Come summer time I shouldnt see anything above 80 too often if it does..usually mid 70's..I am having trouble figuring out the most efficient way to keep my room at optimum temps considering the outside temps and how much air flow is gonna be going through. Obiviously night time temps may be a problem come the colder parts of the year..any suggestions?
View attachment 962654
View attachment 962654

Click to expand...

Well, here's what I'd do. Two 600W Air cooled in Bloom room. Start with 1, then add the other. Better coverage for the 8'x6.5'. Better efficiency too I've heard. Take air from veg room strictly for lights (or reverse in winter). Then filter air with fan to attic for smell control/temp control. The ducting could T before attic. You could change it for winter to help control temps. Could use the heat from it in winter maybe. Bloom room 12/12 timing can help for efficiency. We try to replicate Mother Nature Why fight her?
Hope my rambling helps.
Daniels
Just a quick . Hmn How would I do it?
Daniels

I am dealing with the same issue as you. I use a T5 for veg and will have 2 600W HPS in air-cooled hoods. The room I am using will have a sheetrock/framed partition. I used Panda the first time and it worked great, but I had a hard time getting it sealed up well, so I am gonna go for a bit more rigidity and air tightness this time.

The system I have here obviously uses more materials, and definitely requires as much air tightness as you can get.
It all works on the concept of maximizing the vacuum created on the suction side of the constantly on fan, and using a thermostat or humidistat, (or both), to control each room separately via the electric dampers.
Here are the dampers:
http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/suncourt-6in-motorized-damper-normally-closed-p-1962.html

The lamps will be cooled constantly, and the air in each room will be evacuated when the temps or humidity get to whatever I set them at.
Eventually the bloom room will have A/C and CO2 with a Sentinal CHHC-4, so when I get to that point, the electric dampers in the bloom room will operate with a timer, and the backdraft dampers in the wall will let me renew the air every few hours. They will make great check valves and allow air only one way.

They should work, but I have not used them, so I don't know how strong the spring pressure is. Hopefully it is weak enough that the suction from the fan will crack them open and allow air to cross flow.

Anyhow, sorry for my rant but hopefully you find some part of it useful.

It's a good concept and I think it can be adapted in some way to work for you, depending on whether or not you have materials.

But my input for the cheap route is that I would go with option 2.
That's what I did my first grow and it worked great. I have since decided to invest a bit more money with each new grow until I get to where I really want to be with it, which with my luck will never happen.

View attachment 965883

I am dealing with the same issue as you. I use a T5 for veg and will have 2 600W HPS in air-cooled hoods. The room I am using will have a sheetrock/framed partition. I used Panda the first time and it worked great, but I had a hard time getting it sealed up well, so I am gonna go for a bit more rigidity and air tightness this time.

The system I have here obviously uses more materials, and definitely requires as much air tightness as you can get.
It all works on the concept of maximizing the vacuum created on the suction side of the constantly on fan, and using a thermostat or humidistat, (or both), to control each room separately via the electric dampers.
Here are the dampers:
http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/suncourt-6in-motorized-damper-normally-closed-p-1962.html

The lamps will be cooled constantly, and the air in each room will be evacuated when the temps or humidity get to whatever I set them at.
Eventually the bloom room will have A/C and CO2 with a Sentinal CHHC-4, so when I get to that point, the electric dampers in the bloom room will operate with a timer, and the backdraft dampers in the wall will let me renew the air every few hours. They will make great check valves and allow air only one way.

They should work, but I have not used them, so I don't know how strong the spring pressure is. Hopefully it is weak enough that the suction from the fan will crack them open and allow air to cross flow.

Anyhow, sorry for my rant but hopefully you find some part of it useful.

It's a good concept and I think it can be adapted in some way to work for you, depending on whether or not you have materials.

But my input for the cheap route is that I would go with option 2.
That's what I did my first grow and it worked great. I have since decided to invest a bit more money with each new grow until I get to where I really want to be with it, which with my luck will never happen.

Oh yeah, by the way, this setup can also be reversed to draw air in from the attic and out the door to generate heat in the house in winter. I had considered running the backdraft dampers on the partition wall straight to the door intake with ducting but I dont think I need to now. I will do that when I get the CO2 in there.

There is also the option of going something like this if you like, but it would require two additional fans which should not be needed if your main fan moves enough cfm.

Just remember, thermostats and humidistats are your friends.
http://www.suncourt.com/Inductor_Instructions.html