jeffcooper
Member
Hello all. This is my first post. I have no ability to upload a pic right now but I need help fast.
System Im using= the stinkbud jr home built aeroponic system using PVC fence posts and PVC pipe as featured in a "certain" magazine with build instructions. Everything was built correctly. Each unit has 16 netpot locations and I run 16 plants per unit and I use an 18 gallon res and keep it at about 10 to 15 gallons of water. My plants get to about 3 feet tall, and remember there is a total of 16 per system.
Water= I use reverse osmosis water from the store and it is carbon filtered UV filtered, micron filtered, ect. I cant use the water at my house...
Nutes= I first tried the 3 part from general hydroponics... And am now trying the PH PERFECT nutes that supposedly let you run PH in wider ranges without problems... (but I still keep my PH balanced).... I tried running this system at first using the directions for feeding in the magazine which is 1500 to start flowering and bumping it to 2200 after 2 weeks for the remainder of flowering... I have since tried lowering the PPM to around 1500 to 1700 to see if this fixed my problem and it hasnt.
Environment= my room is around 64 degrees at night at its coldest and around 78 degrees at its highest. Humidity runs between 48 to maybe 60 percent. I am using a 600 watt light for each unit. the light covers fine.
Plants= I currently am trying to do an indica strain and I know these feed heavier than sativas.
Problem= my clones do very well and never really have a problem with them. They grow well thru the veg state and I keep them around 700 to 800 ppm... Once I put them into flower they are about a foot tall. they grow well at first til about 4 weeks into the flowering state and then the ploblem starts and it has been happening with every crop and I have tried about 5 or 6 crops and no success yet.
DESCRIPTION OF PROBLEM= In about week 4 I start to notice very faint spots on fanleaves that are barely noticable. They continue to get lighter until the spot is like a tiny yelllow pinhole spot and then gets a rust spot color (its not from spider mites).. And the fanleaves then start to get interveinal leaf clorosis that starts at the end of the leaf and progresses back toward the leaf stem. The leaves also begin to get too dark green, while the spots continue to get worse and more yellow. It has the appearance of a magnesium deficiency. (but my PPM is in Ok ranges, could it be my reverse osmosis water needs more magnesium than what the bottle ratios say to use)... It progresses until the fanleaves are yellow dry and hanging dead on the plants, but the rest of the plant is till really dark green. Its like the entire plant turns way too dark, but the fanleaves on the upper parts are dead and yellow.
My plants just start the budding phase when all this starts to happen. Eventually the plants fall over and cannot support themselves. i dont know if this is from resin production and the weight makes em fall over or if the plant is just dead and starting to fall over... They dont really take in water much and zero growth in size or potency after all this starts happening.
MY SUSPICIONS AND QUESTIONS= Ok, so here are the incidental things that you should know.
I notice in my res that I see what looks like big flakes of dandruff floating around in the water after I stir PH up or down in it to keep PH correct. Also, this stuff settles to the bottom of the res and when I drain them, it looks like cream colored flakes.
Could this be nutes combining? Also I get a build up on top of my lids because the water drips on the lid tops some which creates a build up on the lids that look like frozen coca cola. The buildup is kinda brown and washes off much easier than a salt build up. Are these dries nutes combining? Also, sometimes I get algae growing on tops of lids too.... So on lid tops i get the brown build up and algae. The water does kinda seep into the res from lid top holes..... Would these things on my lid tops getting in my water be the problem?
And I notice that roots grow out the end of the fenceposts and down into the res.
The roots are nice and white when I first put em in flower but they do turn a cream color and progress to about like yoo hoo chocolate milk color by end of harvest. I have also noticed a bit of algae growing on the roots themsleves where they come out and dangle down in the res. the root portions that do touch the res water dont seem to get as brown.
Everything I read makes me think this is a lack or overdose of certain nutes. BUt my PPM is around 1500 to 1700. I ever tried em up at 2200 like the magazine instructed.
Raising or lowering the nutes doesnt seem to help.
Questions= what is the brown build up on lid tops and will it hurt my plants if it gets back into the res? What will the algae do if it gets back in the res? What is the dandruff like flakes floating in the water? And lastly, the book said 2200 ppm but manufacturer bottle ration instructions seem to run around 800 ppm when mixed according to directions. Is there a difference in the PPM between a chemical nutrient and an organic one? I mean if you run 2200 PPM with organic, should you run 2200 with chemical nutrients. Are they the same "strength"?
Thanks in advance and sorry to be so long winded but with no pics to show I wanted to give as much info as possible
System Im using= the stinkbud jr home built aeroponic system using PVC fence posts and PVC pipe as featured in a "certain" magazine with build instructions. Everything was built correctly. Each unit has 16 netpot locations and I run 16 plants per unit and I use an 18 gallon res and keep it at about 10 to 15 gallons of water. My plants get to about 3 feet tall, and remember there is a total of 16 per system.
Water= I use reverse osmosis water from the store and it is carbon filtered UV filtered, micron filtered, ect. I cant use the water at my house...
Nutes= I first tried the 3 part from general hydroponics... And am now trying the PH PERFECT nutes that supposedly let you run PH in wider ranges without problems... (but I still keep my PH balanced).... I tried running this system at first using the directions for feeding in the magazine which is 1500 to start flowering and bumping it to 2200 after 2 weeks for the remainder of flowering... I have since tried lowering the PPM to around 1500 to 1700 to see if this fixed my problem and it hasnt.
Environment= my room is around 64 degrees at night at its coldest and around 78 degrees at its highest. Humidity runs between 48 to maybe 60 percent. I am using a 600 watt light for each unit. the light covers fine.
Plants= I currently am trying to do an indica strain and I know these feed heavier than sativas.
Problem= my clones do very well and never really have a problem with them. They grow well thru the veg state and I keep them around 700 to 800 ppm... Once I put them into flower they are about a foot tall. they grow well at first til about 4 weeks into the flowering state and then the ploblem starts and it has been happening with every crop and I have tried about 5 or 6 crops and no success yet.
DESCRIPTION OF PROBLEM= In about week 4 I start to notice very faint spots on fanleaves that are barely noticable. They continue to get lighter until the spot is like a tiny yelllow pinhole spot and then gets a rust spot color (its not from spider mites).. And the fanleaves then start to get interveinal leaf clorosis that starts at the end of the leaf and progresses back toward the leaf stem. The leaves also begin to get too dark green, while the spots continue to get worse and more yellow. It has the appearance of a magnesium deficiency. (but my PPM is in Ok ranges, could it be my reverse osmosis water needs more magnesium than what the bottle ratios say to use)... It progresses until the fanleaves are yellow dry and hanging dead on the plants, but the rest of the plant is till really dark green. Its like the entire plant turns way too dark, but the fanleaves on the upper parts are dead and yellow.
My plants just start the budding phase when all this starts to happen. Eventually the plants fall over and cannot support themselves. i dont know if this is from resin production and the weight makes em fall over or if the plant is just dead and starting to fall over... They dont really take in water much and zero growth in size or potency after all this starts happening.
MY SUSPICIONS AND QUESTIONS= Ok, so here are the incidental things that you should know.
I notice in my res that I see what looks like big flakes of dandruff floating around in the water after I stir PH up or down in it to keep PH correct. Also, this stuff settles to the bottom of the res and when I drain them, it looks like cream colored flakes.
Could this be nutes combining? Also I get a build up on top of my lids because the water drips on the lid tops some which creates a build up on the lids that look like frozen coca cola. The buildup is kinda brown and washes off much easier than a salt build up. Are these dries nutes combining? Also, sometimes I get algae growing on tops of lids too.... So on lid tops i get the brown build up and algae. The water does kinda seep into the res from lid top holes..... Would these things on my lid tops getting in my water be the problem?
And I notice that roots grow out the end of the fenceposts and down into the res.
The roots are nice and white when I first put em in flower but they do turn a cream color and progress to about like yoo hoo chocolate milk color by end of harvest. I have also noticed a bit of algae growing on the roots themsleves where they come out and dangle down in the res. the root portions that do touch the res water dont seem to get as brown.
Everything I read makes me think this is a lack or overdose of certain nutes. BUt my PPM is around 1500 to 1700. I ever tried em up at 2200 like the magazine instructed.
Raising or lowering the nutes doesnt seem to help.
Questions= what is the brown build up on lid tops and will it hurt my plants if it gets back into the res? What will the algae do if it gets back in the res? What is the dandruff like flakes floating in the water? And lastly, the book said 2200 ppm but manufacturer bottle ration instructions seem to run around 800 ppm when mixed according to directions. Is there a difference in the PPM between a chemical nutrient and an organic one? I mean if you run 2200 PPM with organic, should you run 2200 with chemical nutrients. Are they the same "strength"?
Thanks in advance and sorry to be so long winded but with no pics to show I wanted to give as much info as possible
