my shittty setup

lol! thats almost an exact copy of my grow...check out my journal in my sig...

Bongman said:

[SIZE=-1]On the pH scale of 0 to 14, normal tap water measures out an approximately neutral 7, or slightly either side.

Now, marijuana does best at a neutral(7) PH level on average. Hardly ever can a soil mix be found that is too alkaline, but over-acidic is a reachable problem. Of course it does not hurt to be a little below 7, but it is advised to keep it as close to neutral as possible. After a few months in a mix with high concentration of Sphagnum, things could get too acidic, meaning below the acceptable acidity. We want females.
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Im not trying to argue #1 bcuz im no pro, and #2 bcuz e-beef is gay
but tap water never comes out to 7, regardless of how long you let it sit out it will not be neutral. you almost always have to add something to it to make it ideal for plants and fish. the only water that is suitable without doing anything to it is Reverse Osmosis, Rain Water, Distilled or Bottled water, Well Water, and sometimes Filtered water depending on the system.."normal" Tap water hardly ever comes out neutral. And like I said before Tap Water is most of the time too Alkaline and when U measure the pH of the run-off water it will either be neutral or Acidic bcuz of the peat moss (which is actually pretty close to neutral on the pH scale)

and secondly marijuana loves pH thats between 6.2-6.9 when growing in soil and of 5.9 -6.5 when growing hydroponically.

and its a myth that causeing too much stress will turn a plant male/female/hermie..the sex is already written in the plant while its still a seed.

jackterrier234 said:

some questions:

1) When should I seperate those 2 plants that are in the same pot, and how should I ?

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You should do it asap, how? prepare the other medium first, then carefully dig around the plant in a circle, just where you think the rootball is and dig it up, from there you can treat it like a transplant. fill in the empty hole, water, and proceed with the grow

2) Will that fan work, is it too close? should it be on 24 hours? Should I have it on low or high?

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Yeah that fan will work, just set it on low for now bcuz u only wanna stimulate the stem, not bend it or snap it, and in that little peat pot you'll dry up the soil way too fast if its too high. just leave it high enough so that it will blow away the stale hot air coming off of the lights. The distance is ok, my fans actually closer, but then again I have twice as many lights as you so...

3) Are the lights too close or too far?

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Lights are fine on the 2, but could be a lil closer on the single baby.

4) If I were to go through all stages with CFL'S how many would I need? Could I use the same 2 lights Im currently using and buy more of them or should i buy some from the EBAY link i posted

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Depends on how many females u have..Major_Toke used 5 CFL's( 4 - 45w (soft white/regular,everyday light) and 1 -23w (cool white) and he's budding 1 plant and it looks really good too:

Major_Toke said:

Major_Toke Grow Journal

From what i have read 2000 lumens per square foot would be minimun for our plants. Mid range is around 5000 lumens per square foot. Optimal is 7000 to 7500 or higher lumens per square foot.

150w of Fluorescents = 9,000 lumens or 60 lumens per watt
150w of Compact Fluorescents = 10,500 lumens or 70 lumens per watt
150w Metal Halide = 13,500 lumens or 90 lumens per watt
150w High Pressure Sodium = 16,000 lumens or 107 lumens per watt

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so as a rule of thumb if U say 5 CFL's for each plant - that should give U your answer.



...and remember ...whether you think you Can or Can't, you're Right!

Not to be too redundant, I stand by my other points as true. People should know the ph of their water, it is not just usually one way or the other. It generally could be between 6.8 and 7.2. Also, environmental factors can cause intersexes and sexual reversals. This is a fact.

Remember: "Heritage sets the genetic program, but environment can influence the way the program is run. "

man like I said all that "intersex" and "sexual reversal" shit is all speculation, there is no physical proof of that, no more proof that than of big foot..ya know?

and I refuse to argue about the pH bcuz its obvious U didnt read any of the GrowFAQs on here..
>https://www.rollitup.org/newbie-central/937-how-grow-marijuana.html
^^thats like a bible for n00bs on this site, I suggest U get familiar with it so U wont have any questions or doubts about what Im telling you.

Lol, I just skimmed that and immediately saw this: "EDIT: Now that I got a soil ph meter I am seeing that my miricle grow soil was a bad idea. I got some scotts soil and its ph is closer to nutral."

But anyway, I've said my piece and will leave it without further dispute. Peace out

Wow lotta differences in this thread so why not through out some of mine.First never plant 2 plants together in a pot its trouble and you ll almost definatly have tangled roots sysetm when it done causeing stress and damage when you try to seperate them.I use miracle grow moisture control and it's an excellent soil to use but remember it has nute added time release so dont have to feed for at least 30 days.My tap water comes out at 6.7-6.8 everytime.And lets see what else oh lamp light bulbs will not work.You can maybe keep a small plant weakly alive but its no good for growing a healthy plant and you can flowere with it,..

For soil grows and to keep PH in check, mix in some dolomitic lime.

It is available at the nursery in a box or bag. Using this stuff will not allow your PH to swing radically one way or another so if your water or ferts swing in PH, the lime keeps it in check.

ehhhh. cfls that eliminate odors? I would be VERY skeptical about that, but if there isnt too much of a price markup then I guess id be worth a try. and that ph meter looks like it should work for what u need it to do. And if it is accurate thad b exelent for $15. the best way to put more light clamps in that area? nail a 2x4 onto that rear peice of wood (In the 3rd pic down "my new setup" its on the very right, or the side opposite of the currently existing lights) and just clap them from that. growing dosent have to be proper all the time, rig that little sun up in any way that you can.

ive been using miricle grow on my plants for six months. but ive also added mulch from my little compost area.


your setup is not the best you wont get that high of yeilds but its alright it will work!


peace
cali-high

what are you gonna do for co2 . . .you should give co2 t oyour plant right now and watch how fast it grows

whats the cheapest way to feed the plant co2?

ok i have a great solution to your lighting problems.

go to your local agway, or even better, a lights/electrics store. i went to one near my home, and they had everything from the normal incandescent light bulb to the HID bulbs you'll be wanting to let your babies grow.

i picked up 2 Verilux Instant Sun with Phosphor3 bulbs, and a fixture to place them in for about 35 bucks or something. Very cheap. These lamps have:
a rated lamp life of 26,000 hours
a color temp of approximately 6280 Kelvin
an output of 2100 lumens per bulb

this lighting setup has proved to be really effective. my plants love it! plus, it doesn't destroy the wallet

pig-hatin-pothead said:

ehhhh. cfls that eliminate odors? I would be VERY skeptical about that, but if there isnt too much of a price markup then I guess id be worth a try. and that ph meter looks like it should work for what u need it to do. And if it is accurate thad b exelent for $15. the best way to put more light clamps in that area? nail a 2x4 onto that rear peice of wood (In the 3rd pic down "my new setup" its on the very right, or the side opposite of the currently existing lights) and just clap them from that. growing dosent have to be proper all the time, rig that little sun up in any way that you can.

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not if those are heavy in the UV range, than this bulb gone produce some amount of ozon which kills some oder, but not enough to completly hide a grow for sure

actually...my GF works at home depot, she says those fresh2 odor control bulbs really do work. they're coated in Titanium Dioxide and when it heats up it releases odor controlling oxidants in the air to kill the odor..I dunno if I'd use em bcuz my plants dont smell that strong yet. but maybe down the road...

the Fluorex Lights are said to be ideal for seedlings/clones bcuz they dont get too hot so you can keep them a little closer to reduce stretching, but besides that the 42 watter that you have should be fine. but I had to learn the hard way that CFL's can still burn the plants if too close, but your distances look fine.

As far as your plant problem I would suggest the same thing everyone say "When in doubt, flush them out!" that might help, although in my opinion it looks like your plants are asking for N..but its kinda early, maybe a 1/4 strength solution or so..I didnt see anything that said you used a pre-fert'd mix or that you've fed any nutes yet, so that may be a solution to your problem...

the majority of plant problems are on this site
Plant Problems
I didnt see a problem like yours on there tho, but it could only be a few things...

I too am using the MG Potting mix (not the moisture control but on hind site i would) and the nutes in it are quite a low dose and are not too water soluable so they time release flushing does nothing. But since there is so little a new sprout might object for a little bit of time but not much.