My first grow, problems during flowering. Will it be able to finish?

M

Markhey

New Member
Hi! This is my first grow. The vegetation phase went without any problems but now that I'm in 5th or 6th week in flower (not really sure where the start of the flowering should start counting).

Its now the start of 10th week (66 days) since sprouting.
Looks like she is loosing all the fanleaves even though I'm feeding her. The sugar leaves look healthy in color but all the fanleaves are turning yellow. She is dropping 1 or 2 leaves a day. I have read that yellowing of fanleaves is normal during flowering but I think the buds still have at least 3-4 weeks to go before they are finished and yellowing of fanleaves this early worries me.

Strain: RQS Quick One
Subtrate: BioBizz LightMix + additional 30% perlite
Nutrients: Canna Terra Vega and Canna Terra Bloom

I feed her every other watering. (ph water , nutrient water, ph water..) Water / nutrient solution always pH adjusted to 6.5-6.6. Runoff pH has always been 6.5

Any advice is much appreciated.

day66.jpgday66_2.jpg
 
You start counting the flower phase when you switch the lighting schedule from 18/6 (veg) to 12/12 (flower), typically -IF your plant is a real, photoperiod, marijuana plant.

The name of that strain indicates that it might be a "fast flowering" plant....which involves using a completely different species of cannabis and combining it with a traditional, marijuana variety. This practice seems to be a trend.

Anyway, the plant definitely looks as if it has traits from C. ruderalis in it -the hairy buds and rough serrations on the leaves, low trichome production.

I mean, your plant looks like it's supposed to be doing what it's doing....I guess.
 
What nutrients are you using?

The plant needed a stronger dose of Nitrogen. Considering giving it a stronger dose of N if you want to prevent more leaves from dropping off.
 
Farmer's Hat said:
What nutrients are you using?

The plant needed a stronger dose of Nitrogen. Considering giving it a stronger dose of N if you want to prevent more leaves from dropping off.
Click to expand...

Canna Terra Vega for veg and Canna Terra Flores for Bloom. They both have same amount of nitrogen but their bloom nutrient has more PK.
 
I am really surprised you kept those lower leafs and stems. Most growers clean that up for flower airflow, the worst time to get mildew.
At 6 weeks this fade is normal for most strains. Your plant is moving from leaf development to flower development. I would argue that increasing nutrition will not stop the progression as it looks like normal leaf fade. No rusty no holes no burn. Nails are painted indicating nutrition saturation and good light.

Do not freak. Look in grow journals. Almost every plant 2-4 weeks from chop fades leaves.
 
For a newbie I am going to give you a good score for this grow! You will see results 1st grow which is critical to the hobby. You will be much better seeing this grow over and over time after time. Learn the habits. Get to know them by watching not touching. One thing I learned is a newbie treatement is too much of everything. Water and Nutrients. Usually is the fix. Try it....Like my water is weekly and almost rarely more often in 5 or 7 gal pots. nuts oh my less just trust me.
 
Jimski said:
I am really surprised you kept those lower leafs and stems. Most growers clean that up for flower airflow, the worst time to get mildew.
At 6 weeks this fade is normal for most strains. Your plant is moving from leaf development to flower development. I would argue that increasing nutrition will not stop the progression as it looks like normal leaf fade. No rusty no holes no burn. Nails are painted indicating nutrition saturation and good light.

Do not freak. Look in grow journals. Almost every plant 2-4 weeks from chop fades leaves.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I did not dare touch the lower leaves or to cut anything out really. Being my first grow and all I was too worried I would get it stunted or killed. Yes, I have noticed that increasing the nutrient amount has not stopped or slowed down the leaves fading though I have only increased the bloom nutrients a little bit. And to be honest, I have been rather stingy with the nutrients during the grow because I have been warned a lot about now nutrient burns happen easily.

Thanks for the tip, I will take a look at the journals. I always thought the fading would only happen at the last week when some growers do the flushing.
 
Markhey said:
Thanks! I did not dare touch the lower leaves or to cut anything out really. Being my first grow and all I was too worried I would get it stunted or killed. Yes, I have noticed that increasing the nutrient amount has not stopped or slowed down the leaves fading though I have only increased the bloom nutrients a little bit. And to be honest, I have been rather stingy with the nutrients during the grow because I have been warned a lot about now nutrient burns happen easily.

Thanks for the tip, I will take a look at the journals. I always thought the fading would only happen at the last week when some growers do the flushing.
Click to expand...

Those yellow leaves in the lower part of the plants are dead - you may as well chop them off, they might even detach by themselves with hardly any effort.

Dead leaves don't recover, so there's no point keeping them.
 
Markhey said:
Thanks! I did not dare touch the lower leaves or to cut anything out really. Being my first grow and all I was too worried I would get it stunted or killed. Yes, I have noticed that increasing the nutrient amount has not stopped or slowed down the leaves fading though I have only increased the bloom nutrients a little bit. And to be honest, I have been rather stingy with the nutrients during the grow because I have been warned a lot about now nutrient burns happen easily.
Click to expand...
From my own experience with 1 unsuccessful and one grow less than 2 weeks from harvest and 30 years of food growing lower leaves are like suckers on tomatoes after flowering. Any nutrition going to those leaves are robbing it from flowers. They are 2 low to produce flowers even if they shoot some pistils.

I shoot for a 12 inch deep canopy as that is the effective depth of the lights at my settings. At 65k lumens 12 inches down is 30k lumens which will grow vegative but not really good flowers.

Do you have a way to look at tricomes? That's the way most guys plan harvest window.
 
Jimski said:
From my own experience with 1 unsuccessful and one grow less than 2 weeks from harvest and 30 years of food growing lower leaves are like suckers on tomatoes after flowering. Any nutrition going to those leaves are robbing it from flowers. They are 2 low to produce flowers even if they shoot some pistils.

I shoot for a 12 inch deep canopy as that is the effective depth of the lights at my settings. At 65k lumens 12 inches down is 30k lumens which will grow vegative but not really good flowers.

Do you have a way to look at tricomes? That's the way most guys plan harvest window.
Click to expand...

I have a loupe but I have some trouble getting a good image through it, maybe I need a one with more magnification, this one is only 40x
To my eye all the thricomes in the pictures still look clear and not milky.

day66_tricome1.jpgday66_tricome2.jpg
 
futurebanjo said:
Those yellow leaves in the lower part of the plants are dead - you may as well chop them off, they might even detach by themselves with hardly any effort.

Dead leaves don't recover, so there's no point keeping them.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I have only kept them because I thought maybe the plant can suck up some mobile nutrients from them. But yes, the almost white leaves at the lower parts probably have zero nutrients stored in them. I'll pluck them out.
 
I would like to point out that every plant will have different needs. Some plants require a stronger dose of nitrogen. Ive recently grown two plants that have opposing needs. One is a Nitrogen monster, the other very sensitive to it.

With more experience, you will learn how to navigate all the nuances. All in all, it looks like a good first grow.
1742153284254.gif
 
I have also been avoiding being tactile with the buds, did not want to damage them by handling or manipulating them but someone in another chat asked me to try was if the buds feel soft/fluffy or firm/hard.
The buds feel very firm, almost like touching a pinecone. I did not want to use too much pressure, but with a gentle pressure applied they feel really firm and not giving in.

Is this a good or a bad? I have heard that dense buds are good.. but can they be too dense/hard?(It was in a chat and he did not elaborate which one is good or bad)
 
Markhey said:
I have also been avoiding being tactile with the buds, did not want to damage them by handling or manipulating them but someone in another chat asked me to try was if the buds feel soft/fluffy or firm/hard.
The buds feel very firm, almost like touching a pinecone. I did not want to use too much pressure, but with a gentle pressure applied they feel really firm and not giving in.

Is this a good or a bad? I have heard that dense buds are good.. but can they be too dense/hard?(It was in a chat and he did not elaborate which one is good or bad)
Click to expand...
Bud density is irrelevant in most cases. Fluffy or dense, the effects when consumed is the only thing that matters. How is the high? bongsmilie

Bud density can be a bad thing if your growing outdoors, or in a very humid environment. The flower will start to mold (bud rot/botrytis). https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botrytis_cinerea
1742154745200.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Markhey said:
I have also been avoiding being tactile with the buds, did not want to damage them by handling or manipulating them but someone in another chat asked me to try was if the buds feel soft/fluffy or firm/hard.
The buds feel very firm, almost like touching a pinecone. I did not want to use too much pressure, but with a gentle pressure applied they feel really firm and not giving in.

Is this a good or a bad? I have heard that dense buds are good.. but can they be too dense/hard?(It was in a chat and he did not elaborate which one is good or bad)
Click to expand...

Yeah, what @Farmer's Hat said

Density of buds means nothing when it comes to quality, plants with a lot more/or pure Sativa tend to be less dense, for example.

If anything, if the buds are too thick and dense, they can suffer bud-rot if you don't have your huimidity and air-exchange dialed in.

On the subject of touching the buds, I'd suggest touching them as little as possible, but theres no issue with a little squeeze to check them and give your fingers a sniff, afterwards :cool:

That said - don't be 'man-handling' them too much as youll be smooshing up all the trichs etc
:cool:
 
no one asked what your lights and power and color are or what's your temp and humidity. Maybe too small a pot for that size plant.
 
Markhey said:
I have also been avoiding being tactile with the buds, did not want to damage them by handling or manipulating them but someone in another chat asked me to try was if the buds feel soft/fluffy or firm/hard.
The buds feel very firm, almost like touching a pinecone. I did not want to use too much pressure, but with a gentle pressure applied they feel really firm and not giving in.

Is this a good or a bad? I have heard that dense buds are good.. but can they be too dense/hard?(It was in a chat and he did not
Click to expand...
Hey I would love to chime in on do not damage the tricomes
This system is messed up. It will not post a picture properly after text it just random throws photos.
These are a pic of a dried bud. Outside view and outside view at 400x and inside view at 400x.
Notice the bazillion tricomes. All the way through.

I'm not saying to put your hand around a bud and rub the dang thing but you are not going to damage enough tricomes to effect much. God will make more.
 

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raggyb said:
no one asked what your lights and power and color are or what's your temp and humidity. Maybe too small a pot for that size plant.
Click to expand...
Hi! The light is Spiderfarmer SF1000, 100W LED. Should be full specrum, but could also be just marketing bs.
Set to 100% and is 19"-20" from the canopy.

Temps stay between 24c -25c and Rh is stable at 50%
Also an inline fan ventilating the air in the tent, the lung room is also ventilated all the time. Also an oscillating fan inside the tent, not directly pointed at the plant but still the leaves and branches wiggle by the moving air.
Pot is 3 gallon fabric pot. I know the pot is not optimal size.
 
Last edited:
Markhey said:
Hi! The light is Spiderfarmer SF1000, 100W LED. Should be full specrum, but could also be just marketing bs.
Set to 100% and is 19"-20" from the canopy.

Temps stay between 24c -25c and Rh is stable at 50%
Also an inline fan ventilating the air in the tent, the lung room is also ventilated all the time. Also an oscillating fan inside the tent, not directly pointed at the plant but still the leaves and branches wiggle by the moving air.
Pot is 3 gallon fabric pot. I know the pot is not optimal size.
Click to expand...
That light is the problem just that it does not have enough power for that size plant. I don't know that strain is but you could have topped it a few t9kes and kept it short say only 1 foot tall and a little wide say 1 foot wide and keep the light more or less 9-12" from the canape. Or you could get I'm guessing 250 watts to 400 watts for that size. Plant is stretching because it needs more light I gather.
 
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