More Help for the Newb
- Thread starter kjahsf420
- Start date
mogie
Well-Known Member
There are different methods that prove successful:
Seeds can be placed between folded, wet paper towels that are kept moist and warm in an area between 70-85 degrees, such as on the top of the refrigerator. After a period of 48 hours to 2 weeks, the vast majority of viable seeds will crack open with a white root tip emerging. At this point, the seed is gently placed in the growing medium approximately 1/2 inch deep with the root tip pointed downward.
Seeds can also be placed directly into the grow medium with the pointed end facing downwards to germinate without the transplanting step. The medium is kept uniformly moist until the young seedling emerges on the surface.
It is not necessary to provide light before the seedlings break the surface, but it is beneficial to have strong light present from that moment forward to prevent excessive stem elongation.
Fluorescent lighting is satisfactory with cool white or higher color temperature tubes being preferable. Metal halide lighting is beneficial, if heat and moisture are monitored.
*Seeds prefer high light conditions once they have become rooted. They will stretch under most floroescents.
How can I increase the germination rates of my seeds?
Contributed by: Lord Of The Strains
Submitted: March 30, 2004
Pre-soaking your seeds before planting them is a terrific way to ensure a greater germination percentage and faster germination rates. There are a few different methods of soaking seeds; the two most popular being the “Paper-Towel Method” and “Standard” (soaking in a cup or similar object), both of which yield similar results if done correctly (taproot emerges in approx. 24 hrs.)
NOTE: Regardless of which method you employ, seeds should be soaked in a dark, warm environment for the best results. Once the taproot (tiny, white root-tip) emerges from the seeds, they are ready to be planted into the growing-medium.
1. Paper-Towel Method:
MATERIALS: Paper-towels (at least 2 sheets), 2 plates/dishes (or similar object), warm water.
PROCEDURE:
It involves placing the seed(s) onto a damp paper-towel (which is placed on a plate/dish, or similar object), and covering them with another damp paper-towel.
For best results, use water that is a bit warmer than room-temperature (to compensate for any drop in temperature), and cover the plate/dish with another plate/dish (to prevent heat from escaping, as well as protect the seeds from light).
Also, using more than one sheet of paper-towel above and below the seed(s) will yield better results, as well as adding more warm water to the paper-toweling/bottom dish before covering the whole arrangement with the optional second plate/dish.
WARNING: It is imperative that the seed(s) are removed from the paper-toweling as soon as the taproot(s) has/have emerged; If the seed(s) is/are left to soak for too long, delicate micro-roots can be torn when the seed(s) is/are removed from the paper-toweling, which will temporarily retard germination/growth as well as stress the plant (which could possibly result in an unfavorable male/hermaphrodite).
2. Standard Soaking
MATERIALS: Cup/mug (one that retains heat well; i.e. ceramic coffee cup), plate/dish/lid (big enough to cover cup/mug/etc.), warm water.
PROCEDURE:
In this method, the grower places his/her seed(s) in a cup/mug of some sort, which is filled with warm water. I use a ceramic coffee cup - as it is a good conductor of heat - and I cover it with a ceramic plate (again, to prevent heat from escaping, as well as shield seeds from light).
For best results, use water that is a bit warmer than room temperature (again, to compensate for any drop in temperature). It is normal for the seed(s) to float on the surface; just let it/them soak for a while then give it/them a little tap to make it/they sink (the best, most viable seeds will sink to the bottom). Although it is virtually impossible to over-soak seeds using this method, seeds should only be soaked until the taproot has emerged.
CONCLUSION:
Both of these methods are equally effective if executed correctly. Most seeds should show their taproots within 24 hrs., and all seeds should show taproots within 48 hrs. (assuming you are using good, viable seeds).
TIP: (for soil-growers)
If you want to further increase your germination rates, simply plant your seed(s) shallow; approx. 1-2 cm. deep. The seedling(s) should break the soil-surface within 24 hrs., or 48 hrs. for the most (again, assuming you are using good viable seeds – otherwise, it may take another day or two). Once the seedling(s) has/have sprouted, add a little extra soil at the base of the stem(s) for additional support and root-protection.
Seeds can be placed between folded, wet paper towels that are kept moist and warm in an area between 70-85 degrees, such as on the top of the refrigerator. After a period of 48 hours to 2 weeks, the vast majority of viable seeds will crack open with a white root tip emerging. At this point, the seed is gently placed in the growing medium approximately 1/2 inch deep with the root tip pointed downward.
Seeds can also be placed directly into the grow medium with the pointed end facing downwards to germinate without the transplanting step. The medium is kept uniformly moist until the young seedling emerges on the surface.
It is not necessary to provide light before the seedlings break the surface, but it is beneficial to have strong light present from that moment forward to prevent excessive stem elongation.
Fluorescent lighting is satisfactory with cool white or higher color temperature tubes being preferable. Metal halide lighting is beneficial, if heat and moisture are monitored.
*Seeds prefer high light conditions once they have become rooted. They will stretch under most floroescents.
How can I increase the germination rates of my seeds?
Contributed by: Lord Of The Strains
Submitted: March 30, 2004
Pre-soaking your seeds before planting them is a terrific way to ensure a greater germination percentage and faster germination rates. There are a few different methods of soaking seeds; the two most popular being the “Paper-Towel Method” and “Standard” (soaking in a cup or similar object), both of which yield similar results if done correctly (taproot emerges in approx. 24 hrs.)
NOTE: Regardless of which method you employ, seeds should be soaked in a dark, warm environment for the best results. Once the taproot (tiny, white root-tip) emerges from the seeds, they are ready to be planted into the growing-medium.
1. Paper-Towel Method:
MATERIALS: Paper-towels (at least 2 sheets), 2 plates/dishes (or similar object), warm water.
PROCEDURE:
It involves placing the seed(s) onto a damp paper-towel (which is placed on a plate/dish, or similar object), and covering them with another damp paper-towel.
For best results, use water that is a bit warmer than room-temperature (to compensate for any drop in temperature), and cover the plate/dish with another plate/dish (to prevent heat from escaping, as well as protect the seeds from light).
Also, using more than one sheet of paper-towel above and below the seed(s) will yield better results, as well as adding more warm water to the paper-toweling/bottom dish before covering the whole arrangement with the optional second plate/dish.
WARNING: It is imperative that the seed(s) are removed from the paper-toweling as soon as the taproot(s) has/have emerged; If the seed(s) is/are left to soak for too long, delicate micro-roots can be torn when the seed(s) is/are removed from the paper-toweling, which will temporarily retard germination/growth as well as stress the plant (which could possibly result in an unfavorable male/hermaphrodite).
2. Standard Soaking
MATERIALS: Cup/mug (one that retains heat well; i.e. ceramic coffee cup), plate/dish/lid (big enough to cover cup/mug/etc.), warm water.
PROCEDURE:
In this method, the grower places his/her seed(s) in a cup/mug of some sort, which is filled with warm water. I use a ceramic coffee cup - as it is a good conductor of heat - and I cover it with a ceramic plate (again, to prevent heat from escaping, as well as shield seeds from light).
For best results, use water that is a bit warmer than room temperature (again, to compensate for any drop in temperature). It is normal for the seed(s) to float on the surface; just let it/them soak for a while then give it/them a little tap to make it/they sink (the best, most viable seeds will sink to the bottom). Although it is virtually impossible to over-soak seeds using this method, seeds should only be soaked until the taproot has emerged.
CONCLUSION:
Both of these methods are equally effective if executed correctly. Most seeds should show their taproots within 24 hrs., and all seeds should show taproots within 48 hrs. (assuming you are using good, viable seeds).
TIP: (for soil-growers)
If you want to further increase your germination rates, simply plant your seed(s) shallow; approx. 1-2 cm. deep. The seedling(s) should break the soil-surface within 24 hrs., or 48 hrs. for the most (again, assuming you are using good viable seeds – otherwise, it may take another day or two). Once the seedling(s) has/have sprouted, add a little extra soil at the base of the stem(s) for additional support and root-protection.
mogie
Well-Known Member
Contributed by: hopefulgrower
You ever wonder why those seeds don’t germinate? Here are some things that might stop your seeds from germinating in soil!
Too Wet
Seeds need to be damp, not wet for germination. Excess water prevents oxygen getting to the seed. Poorly drained soils may also cause soil fungus diseases. The condition of wet soils may be improved by adding perlite. which will aerate your soil.
Too Dry
A certain amount of water is essential for germination, so maintaining a constant soil moisture during the germination period is vital, cover containers with glass or glad wrap to prevent you soil drying out.
Too Hot
High temperatures result in excessive soil desiccation and injury to seeds and seedlings.
Too Cold
Cold temperatures can kill seedlings and prevent germination. Cool temperatures can result in slow, un-even germination, and attack by soil diseases. You may want to start your seeds indoors, before outplanting. Make sure planting dose not done too early, when it is stll cold and there is a frost hazard.
Planting Too Deep
This will result in delayed emergence. seeds may not be able to grow enough to reach the surface on the limited food storage within the seed. Soil temperature is also lower with depth. Plant your seed 1/2 and inch to an inch down for best results.
Planting Seeds Too Shallow
If you plant your seeds to shallow the seeds can dry out.
Soil Too Firm
Making your soil mix to firm can prevent oxygen getting to your seeds also drainage is also affected.
Soil Too Loose
Soil which is too loose results in too much air surrounding the seed, and they will not absorb moisture and will most likely dry out.
Soil fungus
Seeds may root or seedlings fall over. Overwatering, poor drainage and lack of aeration will increase the likelihood of this occurring. Plant seeds in sterilized potting mix, and make sure you containers are clean.
Non Viable seeds
If your seeds have not been stored correctly they can deteriorate. Look for dark brown seeds. Avoid and light colored or whitish seeds as they are not mature.
My favorite method to stores seeds is to place your seeds in a film canister, then fill it up to the top with rice, this will absorb any moisture, and either freeze them for long term storage or place in a dry, dark cool place for a shorter time period.
You ever wonder why those seeds don’t germinate? Here are some things that might stop your seeds from germinating in soil!
Too Wet
Seeds need to be damp, not wet for germination. Excess water prevents oxygen getting to the seed. Poorly drained soils may also cause soil fungus diseases. The condition of wet soils may be improved by adding perlite. which will aerate your soil.
Too Dry
A certain amount of water is essential for germination, so maintaining a constant soil moisture during the germination period is vital, cover containers with glass or glad wrap to prevent you soil drying out.
Too Hot
High temperatures result in excessive soil desiccation and injury to seeds and seedlings.
Too Cold
Cold temperatures can kill seedlings and prevent germination. Cool temperatures can result in slow, un-even germination, and attack by soil diseases. You may want to start your seeds indoors, before outplanting. Make sure planting dose not done too early, when it is stll cold and there is a frost hazard.
Planting Too Deep
This will result in delayed emergence. seeds may not be able to grow enough to reach the surface on the limited food storage within the seed. Soil temperature is also lower with depth. Plant your seed 1/2 and inch to an inch down for best results.
Planting Seeds Too Shallow
If you plant your seeds to shallow the seeds can dry out.
Soil Too Firm
Making your soil mix to firm can prevent oxygen getting to your seeds also drainage is also affected.
Soil Too Loose
Soil which is too loose results in too much air surrounding the seed, and they will not absorb moisture and will most likely dry out.
Soil fungus
Seeds may root or seedlings fall over. Overwatering, poor drainage and lack of aeration will increase the likelihood of this occurring. Plant seeds in sterilized potting mix, and make sure you containers are clean.
Non Viable seeds
If your seeds have not been stored correctly they can deteriorate. Look for dark brown seeds. Avoid and light colored or whitish seeds as they are not mature.
My favorite method to stores seeds is to place your seeds in a film canister, then fill it up to the top with rice, this will absorb any moisture, and either freeze them for long term storage or place in a dry, dark cool place for a shorter time period.
UserFriendly
New Member
germinating isn't the best? wtf? seeds from previous sacks = bagweed? oh man. youre killing me.