misting your plants?

courtcourt420

Well-Known Member
I was wondering how often we should mist our plants with water a day to keep the heat exhaustion down? b/c it seems if the temp rises at all in our grow room, you can immediately see damage to the leaves. the tips start to curl up and they begin to yellow. but as soon as we get the temp down, all signs go away. let me know! thanks!
 

Chronic_Productionz

Well-Known Member
Hmmm I'd keep a REAL close eye on the temperature... I'm assuming you have some sort of thermometer in the room. Just watch it often... Then when it begins to rise Mist em.. but also when it begins to rise try to figure out WHY it is doing that... Maybe turn your oscillating fan up a little depending on the size of your plants.. too much wind will bend the plant... Just a gentle breeze on the young guns.

also ventilation is a MUST make sure it's working right... Where are you in the plants growth??
 

courtcourt420

Well-Known Member
i think our ventilation is pretty good.. we have a 140 cfm blower hooked up to a carbon filter. then a smaller fan blowing air into the chamber and another to cool the light. i think the problem earlier was that my bf lowered the light a tad bit and it raised the temp. so we adjusted it now everything seems great.. its staying at a constant temp. now...1 is veg. and the other 3 are in seedling stage.
 

nongreenthumb

Well-Known Member
You should mist them for feed as much as anything else, water on the leaves plus sunshine = photosynthesis, it needs it to grow well. I give a good mist all over in the veg stage once a day and havent noticed any problems, you could really do with getting some wetting agent as this allows the shitty water we get in our taps to be better absorbed by the plant there is a formulated leaf spray though called leaf coat which has silicon in it and a few other things the plants love it, but it does run out quite quickly so I bought some nitrozyme and made a leaf spray with that, and the plant definately responeded well to it. You can foliar feed it some nutrients others are not recommended.
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
I only mist sprouts, clones and newly transplanted clones. If there is a problem with the temp deal with that. Misting doesn't seem to be the answer. Hmmmm, are you doing hydro?
 

420penguin

Well-Known Member
I don't know if hydro helps plants resist temps better but I do know Mogie's right. misting might bring the temp down a little bit, but you don't want the plants that close to burning up.
 

Nelson Mutz

Well-Known Member
I'm with mogie...what kind of temperatures does your grow area/room have? If the heat is too high [say above 92 degrees], yes, your leave/plants will BAKE [and that ain't good]. As far as misting, I folair feed with CO2 water every few days on my vegging plants. BTW, my grow area is between 72 -90 degrees, depending on the time of day. Hope this helps.
:peace:
Nelson
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
First time growers frequently:
Overwater their medium based plants. When you pot your plant, judge its weight dry by hefting. Then, water the plant thoroughly, until water runs through the drain holes. Heft it again. When your pot feels as nearly as light as it did dry, its time to water again. Overfeed their plants. As MrSoul says, beginners rarely under do anything. When all else fails, follow the directions on the fertilizer bottle. [Editor's note: dont follow GH's instructions! Use @ 1/4 their recommended strength, or follow recipes in the FAQ]
Overanalyze their grow. A first grow is like a first born child: you pay attention to every little thing that happens. Further, you worry at the first sign something may be wrong. Pay attention to what happens in your grow, but do not try and find a remedy for every yellow leaf. Frequently, the remedy of flushing your medium causes more problems than it solves. Be responsive when things go wrong, but be conservative in your remedies.
Overspend on grow supplies. New growers frequently commit themselves to unrealistic and expensive first grows. It is much more efficient to learn to grow and then invest in high end equipment rather than the other way around. Most experienced growers don't have room for all of the grow paraphernalia they aren't using. As you will see throughout this FAQ: K-I-S-S.
Overpost. Try the search engine first. Chances are good that any question you can think of has been asked and answered before.
Talk about their grow. Don't tell anybody that does not have to know. How can you expect anybody else to keep a secret that you cannot.
Part 2:
Contributed by: Bush_Grower
1. Don't Overwater
Overwatering kills marijuana plants. Water once the top few inches of the soil dries out.
Hydroponics is harder to over-water than soil, due to the abundance of water roots.
2. Don't Tell People
Why? They will only be jealous. People love to feel important and that is why they will tell other people; because others will listen to them.
Keep it to yourself.
3. Touch/kill Germinating Seeds
It can take up to 10 days for a seed to sprout. The paper towel method is not recommended because you must handle the seeds when transferring them from the paper towel to your growing medium.
4. Grow seeds from seeded marijuana (hermaphrodite seeds)
Unless you are prepared for possible disappointments don’t use "unknown" seeds. This is why people buy seeds from seedbanks.
Self-seeding MJ is produced from hermaphrodite plants or a very stunted and late flowering male the grower did not notice. Flowered hermi seeds will produce tall late flowering females coupled with early flowering males.
5. Don't Over-fertilize
Fertilize after first 2 spiked leaves appear.
Start with 25% of recommended label strengths and work your way up. If the leaves suddenly twist or fold under, Leach and Spray with pure water for several days!
Don’t fertilize your plants every time you water! (Soil)
A common watering schedule is to fertilize at full strength, then water at half or quarter strength. This prevents excess salt buildup, leaf and root burn. In addition, don’t water at full strength if the medium is too dry – root burn can occur.
As a precaution, leach the plants with lots of pure water every 2-4 weeks.
6. Don't Under-fertilize
Under-fertilizing is less common. If you prefer to give the plant ‘just enough nutrients’, use a organic soil mixture with blood meal and bone meal or some slow release fertilizer with micro nutrients.
7. Don't Start with Clones
Start with seeds. Bugs are a pain, as are plant diseases. Many growers are able to grow indoors without pest problems for years. Another grower’s cuttings are almost guaranteed to have diseases &/or pests.
8. Don't Provide A Bad Environment
Always provide air circulation and fresh air even during the night cycle. All the air indoors should be replaced every 5-10 minutes.
Humidity between 30-70% temp aim for around 75-85' Even seedlings need a gentle fan to strengthen the stems.
9. Don't Harvest Too Early
25% of the weight will form in the last 2 weeks. Begin flushing with 100% pH’d water when the pistil are 25% brown. Harvest when the plants have totally stopped growing and the white pistils are at least 50-75% brown.
*NOTE: Outdoors if security is a factor make your own call on when to sacrifice the fields. Also take buds continuously in case of thieves.

Common questions:
Q. Can marijuana grow in a northern climate?
Marijuana plants can grow anywhere corn can grow. All it needs is three growing months - seed to harvest. 2 if started indoors!

Q. Why do I have to buy seeds? Why can't I use my own that I picked from my own stash?
Most people desire, and want to be guaranteed, certain characteristics in their mature female plants. The seeds from any weed will all grow into something different. This is unprofitable and inefficient. As opposed to knowing the single set of requirements for your entire crop, you must provide a different set of requirements for each of your plants.

Q. What is better for a new grower - hydroponics or soil?
I believe the all around "better", more convenient setup is soil. Hydro makes plants grow faster, but won't make your buds more potent than soil. Hydro should be attempted after you have a few successful soil crops under your belt.
If you are starting from seed and growing for personal, soil is the practical growing medium. If the crop is started with clones and is commercial, a hydroponics setup is more practical.

Q. Why are my seedlings stretching?
Low light conditions. They also need a gentle wind. Plants will also stretch when subjected to conditions of high humidity.

Q. What kind of lights should I use?
Cheap 4 ft. cool white fluorescent tubes : for germination/seedlings
400 watt Metal halide/HPS : for personal home growers
1000 watt Metal halide/HPS : for some personal growers and commercial growers.
*Use at least 40 watts per sq. foot of grow space.

Q. How far should the lights be from the plants?
Fluorescent: tips of leaves almost touching bulbs
400 watt halide : two feet away from seedlings and one foot away from grown plants
1000 watt halide: four feet away from seedlings and two feet away from grown plants

Q. How often should you water?
Once a week or once every two week for soil and twice a day with a hydroponic flood and drain system.
*When top 2 inches of the soil dry out.* Occasionally provide periods of extra dry and wet soil.
*Allow 10% extra water to drain out of the bottom of the tray.* This will prevent toxic fertilizer build up.

Q. How long do your seeds last? What's the best way to keep them?
Seeds can last over 5 years if kept cool and dry. They may last up to 10 years if sealed and frozen, but fewer will germinate.
 

mogie

Well-Known Member
If you are gonna mist them with fertilizer then you can use any full spectrum nutrient to foliar feed your plants. To avoid nutrient burn, your nutrient solution strength, should be no more than 1/3rd of the maunufactures reccomended dosage.

* The best temperature is about 72 degrees (when stomata on the underside of the leaves are open); at over 80, they may not be open at all. So, find the cooler part of the day if it is hot and the warmer part of the day if it is cold out.

* Use a good quality sprayer -- should atomise the solution to a very fine mist.

* Always be sure your light is off and cool before foliar feeding! For extra safety, wipe your bulb with a dry cloth after spraying and make sure H.I.D lights are raised to a safe distance (double the distance is a good rule of thumb) to prevent burning.

* Make sure the PH of your solution is between 7 and 6.2.

* To prevent the water from beading up (acting as small prisms) and thereby burning the leaves, for each gallon made, add half of a teaspoon of liquid detergent (wetting agent).

* Spray leaf surface -- the tops and the undersides -- until the liquid begins to drip off the leaves. Stop spraying 2 weeks into flowering -- use sparingly on bud sites.

* Dispose of excess spray according to manufactures instructions— home made fertilizer sprays will be fine for at least 2 weeks.

* Spray one time a week every week, if any white residue is found, rinse the foliage with plain ph'd water to reduce salt build-up.
 

courtcourt420

Well-Known Member
Lol nice long list!! the grow room stays between 79-86.. we can control it for the most part.. right now i think there might a nitrogen defficiency
 

420penguin

Well-Known Member
Mogie,

I've been getting nutrient burn with BC products. I keep backing down my application. I was applying nightly to clones, but that burned them. Just tried to spread it out to every other night on a new crop of clones but it burned them too.

Your advice here:

To avoid nutrient burn, your nutrient solution strength, should be no more than 1/3rd of the maunufactures reccomended dosage. makes me think that I should weaken the solution and then apply more regularly? Or is it the lack of detergent that's causing the burn?

I can post pics but just thought I'd ask initially.
 
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