Light stress or magnesium def?!?

K

Kbrayshaw

Member
Hey guys,

so I posted a while ago and thought I kind of figured it out but the problem has persisted. Basically I was growing under a red and blue (blurple) king led 1200 that pull about 230 watts from the wall. I switched to the bloom plus 2500 with more of a white light that pull 250 watts from the wall. I’ve done everything like raising the light as far as a can and turning down the brightness all the way. It generally looks decent right after but then a few days later it starts getting these brown spots and yellowing all over again. I’m just wondering if this is in fact light stress still or what. I’ve been gradually increasing the brightness here and there and the newer growth seems a bit better but the old growth doesnt seem to like the new light or something. I’m growing crown royale in soil, water and nutes phd to 6.8. And the nutes I’m using are medi one, super b+ and cal pro. I get the ppms into the 550 to 600 range. Any information would be appreciated!!

thanks in advance
 

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Farmer Bean

Member
Doesn't look like light or mag issues to me. To me it looks like potassium def or lockout. With your ppms it sounds def and the purplish in the stems is indicative of nute def or to cold for strong metabolism. How often do you fertigate vs plain water? If your plants are sick its a good idea to keep your light levels lower till they start to recover.
 
K

Kbrayshaw

Member
Farmer Bean said:
Doesn't look like light or mag issues to me. To me it looks like potassium def or lockout. With your ppms it sounds def and the purplish in the stems is indicative of nute def or to cold for strong metabolism. How often do you fertigate vs plain water? If your plants are sick its a good idea to keep your light levels lower till they start to recover.
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Thanks for the reply. I do a feed feed water schedule but I add calpro to the mix on water days. And ph is always 6.8 or 6.7 since seed so I’m not sure why there would be a lockout or what to do about it if there is. As for the purple stems it’s a mix of blueberry and pk, and my last grow with blueberry cbd I had purple stems the whole time so maybe that’s just the strain? I’m not sure honestly.
 
Killaki

Killaki

Well-Known Member
Kbrayshaw said:
Thanks for the reply. I do a feed feed water schedule but I add calpro to the mix on water days. And ph is always 6.8 or 6.7 since seed so I’m not sure why there would be a lockout or what to do about it if there is. As for the purple stems it’s a mix of blueberry and pk, and my last grow with blueberry cbd I had purple stems the whole time so maybe that’s just the strain? I’m not sure honestly.
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What is your ph run off? Perhaps your medium is running a little hot or something. It does look like nutrient uptake issues, possibly due to pH but overfeeding and build up of nutrients, ect. Can all cause similar problems. pH run off is a good place to start, and is a fairly common problem.
 
Killaki

Killaki

Well-Known Member
Kbrayshaw said:
Hey guys,

so I posted a while ago and thought I kind of figured it out but the problem has persisted. Basically I was growing under a red and blue (blurple) king led 1200 that pull about 230 watts from the wall. I switched to the bloom plus 2500 with more of a white light that pull 250 watts from the wall. I’ve done everything like raising the light as far as a can and turning down the brightness all the way. It generally looks decent right after but then a few days later it starts getting these brown spots and yellowing all over again. I’m just wondering if this is in fact light stress still or what. I’ve been gradually increasing the brightness here and there and the newer growth seems a bit better but the old growth doesnt seem to like the new light or something. I’m growing crown royale in soil, water and nutes phd to 6.8. And the nutes I’m using are medi one, super b+ and cal pro. I get the ppms into the 550 to 600 range. Any information would be appreciated!!

thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Oh I see now you're using crown royale soil, I thought you were in coco. My bad. How much nutes are you using? In veg I don't feed till late stage right before flip, in soil.
 
F

Farmer Bean

Member
Varying your ph up and down a bit helps overall as well vs a static ph. The elements are uptaken in vary rates at different phs and water Temps. So be aware there as well
 
F

Farmer Bean

Member
Also about the purplish stems. In my experience and kind of streaking purple is nute def 95% very few strains do that naturally as part of their gene expression.
 
JimmiP

JimmiP

Well-Known Member
Farmer Bean said:
Also about the purplish stems. In my experience and kind of streaking purple is nute def 95% very few strains do that naturally as part of their gene expression.
Click to expand...
And a lot of the time it is directly related to root zone temperature and humidity. In this case I would start by getting the pots off of the floor.
What are your temperatures at?
 
FastFreddi

FastFreddi

Well-Known Member
They look hungry due to a lockout.
Feed anywhere from 6.5-7.2 ph, and as stated above, varying ph levels between these points works very well.
Unless you are using ro water, typically calmag is not required.
Keep temps up...led grows need a little more heat than old school hps.
Shoot for 78-83...
Lots of air movement and exchange.
Humidity levels ...meh...keep above 10 and below 60 your golden.
Proper watering techniques...learn them.
Good luck.
FF
 
JimmiP

JimmiP

Well-Known Member
JimmiP said:
And a lot of the time it is directly related to root zone temperature and humidity. In this case I would start by getting the pots off of the floor.
What are your temperatures at?
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And what are they growing in?
 
K

Kbrayshaw

Member
JimmiP said:
And a lot of the time it is directly related to root zone temperature and humidity. In this case I would start by getting the pots off of the floor.
What are your temperatures at?
Click to expand...
I can definitely get the pots raised a bit off the floor here. It’s around 20C in the tent but in my basement it’s hard to get it much warmer than that. Humidity is at 45 percent
 
K

Kbrayshaw

Member
Farmer Bean said:
Doesn't look like light or mag issues to me. To me it looks like potassium def or lockout. With your ppms it sounds def and the purplish in the stems is indicative of nute def or to cold for strong metabolism. How often do you fertigate vs plain water? If your plants are sick its a good idea to keep your light levels lower till they start to recover.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply. I do a feed feed water schedule but I add calpro to the mix on water days. And ph is always 6.8 or 6.7 since seed so I’m not sure why there would be a lockout
JimmiP said:
And what are they growing in?
Click to expand...
The soil is Dutch treat plain potting soil from my local hydro store so no added anything as far as I know
 
K

Kbrayshaw

Member
Farmer Bean said:
Also about the purplish stems. In my experience and kind of streaking purple is nute def 95% very few strains do that naturally as part of their gene expression.
Click to expand...
I can try and just use water for the next couple feedings and see if that works. And I’ll play with the ph levels and feed at 6.4 then 6.2 or something and see if that helps with everything else
 
K

Kbrayshaw

Member
FastFreddi said:
They look hungry due to a lockout.
Feed anywhere from 6.5-7.2 ph, and as stated above, varying ph levels between these points works very well.
Unless you are using ro water, typically calmag is not required.
Keep temps up...led grows need a little more heat than old school hps.
Shoot for 78-83...
Lots of air movement and exchange.
Humidity levels ...meh...keep above 10 and below 60 your golden.
Proper watering techniques...learn them.
Good luck.
FF
Click to expand...
I’ll try and cut the cal mag too, play with the ph with just water. Should I cut out the super B +? I was using it because they seemed stressed so I’ve read that it helps with that. I’m also using spring water not RO
 
F

Farmer Bean

Member
I grow in coco. Canna line mostly. Im not personally familiar with using your nutes so I don't know whats in super b. So I can't advise you what to do there probably vitamins so should be fine. Procal was obvious. Lots of cool info being passed around. But heres my perspective and why from the info so far. It could have been induced by cold Temps but calcium is my prime suspect. Soil grown with non ro should have plenty calmag already in there to complete a cycle for most strains some strains need more if they are hogs. But most don't. Also consider most nute lines have plenty of calcium and magnesium as calcium nitrate and magnesium sulphate as the common sources. So on top of that your adding more calmag... even on water days. Its showing up as a potassium def because the cals locking it out. Nute antagonism is a real thing. I just pulled through a iron def that was induced by too much phosphorus. New grow and my waters hard with mag and I had to use sooo much down (phosphoric acid) it took my p levels out of balance and the iron started dropping out quick. They looked jacked haha I was like whaaaaat theee fff.... little reading and click stop using down with phosphoric acid. Flushed with fresh nutes and citric acid to lower the ph. Foliar with seaweed extract and badda bing back on track.
What im trying to get at is chemistry is huge when growing with salts and you are god in that situation so education goes a long way. I never saw iron def before and through some reading I found out the root.

You could flush to leech excess and then feed fresh nutes 3/4 strength. Nooo calmag. My understanding of soil growing is you want to make that happen in one 20 minute time frame. Don't flush then wait an hour then feed. You can drown out the roots. Then since its locking out p you could foliar potassium silicate which should clear up the def and silicon will heal and strengthen future growth. Just my perspective. I grow in coco tho so grain of salt. Maybe some more experienced soil growers can verify.
 
K

Kbrayshaw

Member
Farmer Bean said:
I grow in coco. Canna line mostly. Im not personally familiar with using your nutes so I don't know whats in super b. So I can't advise you what to do there probably vitamins so should be fine. Procal was obvious. Lots of cool info being passed around. But heres my perspective and why from the info so far. It could have been induced by cold Temps but calcium is my prime suspect. Soil grown with non ro should have plenty calmag already in there to complete a cycle for most strains some strains need more if they are hogs. But most don't. Also consider most nute lines have plenty of calcium and magnesium as calcium nitrate and magnesium sulphate as the common sources. So on top of that your adding more calmag... even on water days. Its showing up as a potassium def because the cals locking it out. Nute antagonism is a real thing. I just pulled through a iron def that was induced by too much phosphorus. New grow and my waters hard with mag and I had to use sooo much down (phosphoric acid) it took my p levels out of balance and the iron started dropping out quick. They looked jacked haha I was like whaaaaat theee fff.... little reading and click stop using down with phosphoric acid. Flushed with fresh nutes and citric acid to lower the ph. Foliar with seaweed extract and badda bing back on track.
What im trying to get at is chemistry is huge when growing with salts and you are god in that situation so education goes a long way. I never saw iron def before and through some reading I found out the root.

You could flush to leech excess and then feed fresh nutes 3/4 strength. Nooo calmag. My understanding of soil growing is you want to make that happen in one 20 minute time frame. Don't flush then wait an hour then feed. You can drown out the roots. Then since its locking out p you could foliar potassium silicate which should clear up the def and silicon will heal and strengthen future growth. Just my perspective. I grow in coco tho so grain of salt. Maybe some more experienced soil growers can verify.
Click to expand...
Well I took your advice here and gave them a good flush then fed them some medi one at 400 ppm, and phd to 6.2. So here’s hoping. I also grabbed some stuff foam insulation to put under the tray at the bottom of my tent to get a barrier between the pots and the concrete. Thanks for the help and I’ll keep you updated on if it works!!
 
F

Farmer Bean

Member
Kbrayshaw said:
Well I took your advice here and gave them a good flush then fed them some medi one at 400 ppm, and phd to 6.2. So here’s hoping. I also grabbed some stuff foam insulation to put under the tray at the bottom of my tent to get a barrier between the pots and the concrete. Thanks for the help and I’ll keep you updated on if it works!!
Click to expand...
Cool. Pretty low risk suggestion I figure reset the pot see what happens. Im no pro or claim to know everything. Just minding my own business and fell into it with a pro for a couple years. I learned so much in a short span and saw and nurtured a lot of plants. You should be fine my man. If its not environmental then its the food.
 
F

Farmer Bean

Member
Many of the other suggestion above are solid. Except I saw something about rh. I would say unless your running co2 in a sealed room at really high temps theres no need to drop your humidity past 35% in late flower. If thats possible for you. Keep it high in veg.
 
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