Light intensity and flowering times

Hi all,
I seem to always be 2 weeks or so beyond expected flowering or harvesting times I see alot of growers on the forums with awesome looking tight fat colas in 10 weeks 8 weeks etc,,,
My queastion is, would that be du to better light insensity or since i dont really use many nutes would it be that,

Shadrock15 said:

Hi all,
I seem to always be 2 weeks or so beyond expected flowering or harvesting times I see alot of growers on the forums with awesome looking tight fat colas in 10 weeks 8 weeks etc,,,
My queastion is, would that be du to better light insensity or since i dont really use many nutes would it be that,

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Good lighting and nutrients at the correct pH balance in your grow medium will always dictate the speed of growth dude invest in nutrients if you are going to be serious about growing

It seems that when i do use nutes i always develop some sort of issue I have only used dyna grow nutes and im soil grow so maybe they are to salt based I dont know but any recomendations would be appreciated

I realy wish I knew how to make good natural fertilizer that wont damage soil and micro stuff
My best grow ever i used no nutes at all and clay soil from my backyard lol probly blind dumb luck but man did i get some wieght under a single 4 bulb t5

Shadrock15 said:

I realy wish I knew how to make good natural fertilizer that wont damage soil and micro stuff
My best grow ever i used no nutes at all and clay soil from my backyard lol probly blind dumb luck but man did i get some wieght under a single 4 bulb t5

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Pro tip, ditch the soil and use Coco coir... you will not regret it... as for nutrients.... Advanced Nutrients Sensi A+B or Micro, Grow and Bloom pH perfect nutrients are good..

Personally I've got Piranha, Bud Candy and Sensi Calmag Extra and ordered some pH down for my Coco coir.

If you are using potting soil with nutrients like ocean forest it important to make sure the nutrients are depleted from the soil mostly and the plant needs a more complete array put back.

We feed the soil not the plant directly in this kind of grow.

So try starting low. Brand doesn’t matter much as long as it is complete and has micro nutes. I use a Grow base nute all the way through. Dyna Grow is plenty reputable.

Start as low as 15% of the directions. And add higher concentrations slowly. 15%. 25% maybe up to 50% during peak growth and flowering.

Big fast growing plants may need more.

And I like to feed a low dose every time once needed and if I encounter problems I look to salt build up. I check ec (ppm) in the runoff and always try for at least 15-20% to help wash out excess salt and waste each watering.

Which I only do when the pots are alarmingly light and dry and the lower leaves are just starting to droop a bit.

And when we say salts. We mean fertilizer elements. When they build up and deficiencies start from blocked roots it’s time to leach out the pots with fresh water or maybe a real low concentration of fertilizer works even better and leaves some food while they recover and start uptaking again.

Hope this helps.

Too many growers don't use enough light. It's hard to get nice buds with 400 watts or less.

70's natureboy said:

Too many growers don't use enough light. It's hard to get nice buds with 400 watts or less.

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300 to 400W can yield quite ok depends on the growers skills

MichiganMedGrower said:

If you are using potting soil with nutrients like ocean forest it important to make sure the nutrients are depleted from the soil mostly and the plant needs a more complete array put back.

We feed the soil not the plant directly in this kind of grow.

So try starting low. Brand doesn’t matter much as long as it is complete and has micro nutes. I use a Grow base nute all the way through. Dyna Grow is plenty reputable.

Start as low as 15% of the directions. And add higher concentrations slowly. 15%. 25% maybe up to 50% during peak growth and flowering.

Big fast growing plants may need more.

And I like to feed a low dose every time once needed and if I encounter problems I look to salt build up. I check ec (ppm) in the runoff and always try for at least 15-20% to help wash out excess salt and waste each watering.

Which I only do when the pots are alarmingly light and dry and the lower leaves are just starting to droop a bit.

And when we say salts. We mean fertilizer elements. When they build up and deficiencies start from blocked roots it’s time to leach out the pots with fresh water or maybe a real low concentration of fertilizer works even better and leaves some food while they recover and start uptaking again.

Hope this helps.

Click to expand...

I hear you and I appreciate what your saying but when Indo use the nutes im always on the way low dose side and as far as the salt if I shake the bottle of dyna bloom its like chunks of salt so I agree I want to feed the soila the micros and macros and I can make a mean weed fertilizer for my outside garden but im afraid to use it on my grow as I dont realy know how its balanced ... how much n-p or K but the clay soil outside is different- the light is different - and the water is different -(rain)

CookieKush said:

300 to 400W can yield quite ok depends on the growers skills

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I have searched and searched I have a marshydrob96 reflector and 2 t5 2ft 4 bulb one t5 I have been using to clone and germ. The other I use for my outdoor veg garden seeds but I put it in my grow with the mars and rhe extra watts and I thnk the extra intensity and penetration helped. So this far best grow yet. I can now afford a little bit better light as i need my t5 back also and have narrowed it i believe down to 2x optic 1's - quantum board 260 xw - fusion board ( but im sick of blurple and aint that good at electrical diy) or possably timber with the citizen they have a 200 w model 2 ts
but I cant for the life of me find a pic or info on the spectrum graph shown by most/ all manufacturers any one have a pic of that or advice between those options and I have 7sq ft
Help please