Light in Cycles

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
I have parts ordered and lying around that Ima put together a 730/660 "pontoon," couple of em for each 12/12 area, was going to keep it to x12 730s per area but you know... start day dreaming and now I am here. I would really enjoy setting up separate timers/relays/whatever for separate drivers/emitters to kick on throughout the day cycle

ie. (0-12 for simplicity's sake)
>0-4...my primary panel kicks on with a Cool supp,
>4-8... cool supp out, primary panel with extra reds and whites for "high noon intensity?"
>8-11.5... primary panel w/out extra intensity and 660s kick on
>11.5-12... primary panel, 660s, and 730s all on.
>12-12.5... lights out except 730s


Its out there, and I understand I may be missing certain nm's, or leaving 730s on for too long at lights out, but this is why I brought this here, couple days into the idea and I think I am going to do it for both my areas if I can have some fun with it.

My thought process:

AT200- 72 NW, 48 630s

thought taking it to the 4:1 ratio AT runs would be okay for morning being they said THAT was the spectrum to veg MY kind of plant under (if you guys DO ever talk to ANY company, don't approach em talking about ganga, just good sense..), they are just red loving plants. For 660 (which I would really like to hear some input on...) I figured 2:1, 1:1, 1:3? :o For now 2:1 is what Im crunching numbers with.. and thought x12 730s per area (x1 3x3' and x1 ~2x3' would do just fine.. 140*) going in clusters of x3 per heatsink

Thatd put me at needing:

24NW:24660:12730

Now, this project keeps getting bigger and bigger, and it started as a $25 pontoon, SO, im not ordering quality parts and don't really feel like chucking too much at this (can easily stay <$100-150 for both areas), but I did order my x50 660's, x3 30V drivers, and I am considering ordering up the sets for NW's, and considering using some WW for mixing, maybe CW and WW to balance out the eff? but again, im not too worried about how efficient these puckers end up being, using some thin heatsinks so my expectations for these things is meh.

The SGS is 48NW:24630

Since it has the switch morning is kind of figured out, even lower draw (and thats something else... how cool would it be if we could incorporate some way of to mimic "natural shade from clouds..........."..........NOT!) helps mimic the morning but yea id just do the same for that area in the same ratios.

I may toss up pics of the heatsinks. What I am thinking are four separate ~4x8" slabs connected and hung just like a pontoon, each "slab" has 27 open "slots" for an LED, breaks down to...

6660:6NW:3730 per heatsink, two heatsinks on opposing sides of the primary source...

I have space. and like I said, I was considering WWs to mix, maybe some mono blues (gasp) for what supra had been speaking to a few weeks back.

Seriously id enjoy this to stay positive and this is all about ideas, facts, and concepts, and properly delivered opinions. beyond the obvious q/a and insight of how long to keep a nm on or wavelengths incorporated. how would you Replicate the Sun.

be safe everyone!
 
I just use a reef light.
Aqua Illuminations Vega color.
I can even though a storm at the fuckers with it. my fave it to hit the storm button and then go in the tent and foliar spray and thrash some sheet metal about to simulate thunder! The plants seem to love it!!
 
With my IG / pontoon combo. I ran 20/4 for 8 weeks (no pontoon) then 18/6 in flower room with pontoons for 2 weeks. Then 14/10 -12/12 over 10 days. Quite a bit of stretching. I don't know if that's the cycle or the 730's after lights out during veg with 18/6. Next batch I'm going from 20/4 to 12/12 and see. But that will be the new strains so.. Also the Christmas trees stretched more than topped plants. So there can be many factors. I just want to avoid that much stretching. I'm still deciding whether how to train new plants from seed. May do Christmas trees again. Then train clones. (yet to sex seeds).

your idea of changing spectrum through out the day imo could be beneficial. Never done it myself to that degree.

don't worry db I ramble and jump back and forth between sub topics too.
 
Digging the science experiment! Can't wait to see how the 660s and 730s work out with the AT. What's the temp on the cools and NWs?
 
hahaha thanks for the image DBkick, exactly what I was thinking with the natural shade... maybe get out some poster board and stand there off and off for 2-4 hrs.

Thanks Hyroot- completely forgot adjusting the TOTAL hours per day (gradually), thats the shit im talking about- I wanted to bring this to the public before I build and look back going "o damn!" about things I could have implemented or didn't need. 660/730/blues and whites were the big colors that stood out to me..

Lol 3rd grade science... I just figured out how to test my emitters on the Multimeter, WOO!! Thanks puff, glad to see you aroudn! The girls looked great the last update- hopefully all is well!

I haven't gotten the Whites yet, I have some from my old ProGrows I can unsolder from the mcpcb board, but no stars and unknown color temperature. I was intially just thinking adding the NWs till I hit my 4:1 (+24 more whites for the AT), but then I started thinking about spectral mixing with different peaks and thought to incorporate CW and WWs in place, and on the flip the CW would emit more than the warms (ie. little more eff, little more blue?) So, would I be needing to use more WWs than CWs being the basis is already mostly NW, or am I just making such a pidly diy to complicated, again.

Im getting the heatsinks cut to size early this next weeek and will hopefully have them back in my hands come the weekend, tested all the 730s and theyre good. 660s on their way- probably ~2 weeks.
 
So, say you have a heatsink with the little holes for the original mcpcb, could I, or should I- be using these for mounting, or will thermal paste/wiring keep everything put in place?

My plan up to this point was (if I can build the motivation for tidyness..) was to route the 18 gauge wire through em to the stars like...

GEDC0417.jpg GEDC0418.jpg GEDC0419.jpg

Still havent gotten it cut yet but you can kind of make out what I am thinking, trimming off about ~1" around all edges (still up in the air, may leave it for the extra surface..)

red.jpg unnamed.jpg

Originally I had the whites swapped, but thought if the WWs are there for mixing than they should be further apart.. Im finding "R5" xte's pretty cheap on ebay (again, im not trying to save my electric with this thing BUT wouldnt mind a
"budgetable" quality [low bin crees]) but I am leaning towards the Cool Whites for that heavy blue peak, and Warm for mixing and during the "evening hours"

Imagine the second picture with a prim. panel in between it, and only one panel per side on the other area. Once I get these cut Ill start to build as the parts come in.

O and thank you chaz- he had reminded me (us?) about 660 in the morning reverting phytos to the right state (I get em backwards no matter how many times I hear it..... ehhhhhmm.... What is: converting back to Pr in the morning??) SO i will be incorporating those in the first 2-4 hours of the Day Cycles.


If anyone has a suggestion or could point me in the right direction for timers that could make this less messy/hazardous I am really looking to consolidate that ha.

Be safe everyone!
 
Scotch,you really need some 660 nm when the lights first come on but I'm not sure how much is needed. The 730 nm after lights out puts the plants phytochrome state into Pr for flowering but it needs 660 nm when lights come on to quickly transition into Pfr for a daytime state.
 
I was gonna just edit my top post and reply like that morg but it got so long it could be its own..

damn it! so I DID have it backwards, again. Thank you brother, I do realize I need em, figured I could just run the same amount as I would later in the day cycle (last 4hr window), are you suggesting I should run a more even ratio of 630/660? I can crunch the numbers and give you a ballpark figure of what each channel will draw later.

On another note- what is the MINIMUM amount of time 730s need to be on after lights out? 15 min IS the general consensus?
 
Well indagro's pontoons only run 730 nm for 5 min and growlightsource.com where I bought my 730 nm floods recommends the same. I run mine for 10 minutes,I figure whats another 5 at 10 watts to make sure the plant got enough. They say "opinions are like assholes,everyone's got one" mine is I would like to see a somewhat flat red peak between 610 and 660 and some 680 to 690 with 410 for the emerson effect and of course some UV for enhanced quality.
 
Guess I better be cutting back on the amount of 730 then, 10 minutes it is!!


I did get my heatsinks cut, the lady had some friends over so it was a perfect opportunity for me to dip out and go wire up my first "pontoon" of 730s

GEDC0436.jpg GEDC0437.jpg


They dont appear pink in person, definitely a deeper red color, but they arent bright (to the eyes), you can stare directly at them... but you can feel your eyes straining as you go on. just a heads up. lol.

I do wonder, is it okay to have pcb's back to back like this?

GEDC0430.jpg
 
Well indagro's pontoons only run 730 nm for 5 min and growlightsource.com where I bought my 730 nm floods recommends the same. I run mine for 10 minutes,I figure whats another 5 at 10 watts to make sure the plant got enough. They say "opinions are like assholes,everyone's got one" mine is I would like to see a somewhat flat red peak between 610 and 660 and some 680 to 690 with 410 for the emerson effect and of course some UV for enhanced quality.
When in flower what light schedule do you run? I noticed, or at least it seemed like when I did 13 on 11 off with 10 to 15 min of 730nm at lights out I got a alot of stretch personally. thats why i ask...
 
Guess I better be cutting back on the amount of 730 then, 10 minutes it is!!


I did get my heatsinks cut, the lady had some friends over so it was a perfect opportunity for me to dip out and go wire up my first "pontoon" of 730s

View attachment 3016695 View attachment 3016699


They dont appear pink in person, definitely a deeper red color, but they arent bright (to the eyes), you can stare directly at them... but you can feel your eyes straining as you go on. just a heads up. lol.

I do wonder, is it okay to have pcb's back to back like this?

View attachment 3016700

I've got 3 10 watt 730 nm floods and they are deep red but I can only look at them from a distance,close up hurts my eyes.

When in flower what light schedule do you run? I noticed, or at least it seemed like when I did 13 on 11 off with 10 to 15 min of 730nm at lights out I got a alot of stretch personally. thats why i ask...

That seems to be strain dependent. As a rule I do the first and last 2 weeks 12/12 and 13.5/10.5 in between, but vary that a little depending on the strain. Starting at 12/12 seems to speed up flower onset. I have a sativa dom critical kush that I've seen grow 3" in a single day and a LSD and blueberry skunk that don't stretch badly.
 
Back
Top