How to make Feminized seeds(stolen from another site)

SxIstew

Well-Known Member
There are two main methods to create your own feminized cannabis seeds:

  • the colloidal silver spray method or
  • using rodelization.
Both the colloidal silver method and the rodelization method are described in detail below if you scroll down.
For whatever reason, when colloidal silver solution is sprayed regularly on a female cannabis plants during the early flowering stage, she will grow male "balls" (which are full of female pollen) instead of growing buds.
This allows the grower to collect pollen from a female cannabis plant. You can use this all-female pollen to pollinate another female plant. With two female plants as parents, ALL the seeds will end up being female.
That is why colloidal silver allows can be used create female x female cannabis crosses and produce your own feminized seeds.
Rodelization takes advantage of the fact that a female plant will try to pollinate herself as a last resort when she doesn't get pollinated and is nearing the end of her lifecycle. That is why sometimes older or stressed female plants grow a few male "balls" as a last-ditch attempt to self-pollinate. When successful, she will grow a few seeds.
These self-pollinated seeds will have gotten both sets of genes from the same female plant, so both parents will be female, and all resulting seeds with be female.
Why do you want feminized seeds?
When growing regular cannabis and trying to produce seeds, the resulting seedlings end up being about 50% male and 50% female.
This can be a big disadvantage for the cannabis grower because male marijuana plants do not produce very much THC or other psychoactive cannabinoids.
Therefore, when growing cannabis indoors, most growers will throw away all male cannabis plants as soon as they're discovered. However, it's be easier to not have to worry about males since identifying and removing male cannabis plants can be a bit of a pain. Plus, male plants also take up precious space in the grow room until their gender becomes apparent when they are forced to start flowering.
Another problem with male cannabis plants is that they can accidentally pollinate your female cannabis plants which will cause them to concentrate on making seeds instead of making sinsemilla.
Sinsemilla is the term for cannabis flowers/buds that doesn't contain any seeds. Dried sinsemilla is what most growers are trying to produce when growing cannabis.
So what can you do? If you create feminized cannabis seeds, then all the resulting plants will be female and you never have to worry about male cannabis plants again.
While there are a few different ways to create your own feminized cannabis seeds, for some people making your own feminized seeds may be impractical. If you are looking for a discrete, dependable seed bank, I personally recommend Attitude Seedbank who has a huge selection of feminized seeds.
[h=2]How it Works[/h]The main method used to create feminized seeds is to take a known female cannabis plant and force her to grow male pollen sacs and produce pollen.
You can then take this all-female pollen and use it to fertilize other females. Because all the genetic material comes from females, you will end up with seeds that are at 99% female.
So far for me it's worked 100% of the time. Any male plants that do result when growing feminized seeds are probably genetic females that are growing with male characteristics.
There are several processes by which female plants will grow male characteristics. Some female cannabis plants will start growing male organs if they are left in flowering for too long, as a last ditch attempt to pollinate themselves since they were not pollinated by any male plants.
Some female plants will also show male characteristics as a result of heat and light stress. But for the grower, the most convenient way to get a female cannabis plant to make pollen is to treat her with a solution known as colloidal silver.
Below I will first explain how to make feminized Cannabis Seeds using colloidal silver, then I'll briefly explain the all-natural rodelization method, which is an all natural though less reliable way to get feminized seeds.
[HR][/HR][h=2]Use Colloidal Silver Spray to Make Feminized Cannabis Seeds Like the Seed Banks Do[/h]Pros:

  • You're able to produce feminized seeds using any two female cannabis planst (even clone-only strains!)
  • You can produce seeds consistently
  • You can control how many seeds produced
  • Easy to make hundreds of feminized seeds if needed
Cons:

  • You will need to find a source of colloidal silver which well be used to soray the cannabis plants as they start flowering. Your main options are: buying colloidal silver directly, buying a colloidal silver generator, or making your own simple colloidall silver generator yourself (instructions below)
  • It is not safe to directly use/consume any cannabis which has come into contact with colloidal silver, though any seeds produced by a treated plant's pollen are 100% safe. Note: Some space-starved pot farmers will use the colloidal silver to spray just the bottom branch of a cannabis plant so they can still smoke/use the rest of the cannabis buds. You can definitely do this, just be extremely careful not to get any colloidal silver spray on any part of the cannabis that you will be consuming.
When a female cannabis plant is treated with a solution of tiny silver particles suspended in distilled water, the plant will start to exhibit male characteristics.
This solution of silver in water is called colloidal silver and can be purchased from a pharmacy/online or easily made at home{instructions below}. Or you can make it with a colloidal silver generator.
Some people drink colloidal silver for its health benefits and others use it occasionally on plants to help control bacteria, insect, and fungus growth on the leaves.
To take advantag of this, you thoroughly mist a female cannabis plant with colloidal silver every day right when she enters the flowering stage, she will start growing male "balls" full of pollen. Keep misting the plants daily until you see the beginning of male pollen sacs forming, usually around 10-14 days.
The concentration of silver ions in the water actually act as an ethylene inhibitor/antagonist on the plant, which forces the plant to create male pollen sacs instead of female buds.
After the balls start forming
You need to let the sacs swell like a big empty balloon.
You will be able to tell when they are about to open because the leaf section protecting the pollen starts to crack.
At this point, simply take the pollen sacs off and place them in a cool dry place for a week and let them start to dry.
The pollen will come out if you shake them about a little, or you can also cut open the sacs to get to the pollen inside.
Use this pollen to pollinate female plants and you will get all-female seeds that are a mix of both their mothers.
This method is great because it will force almost any female cannabis plant to show male characteristics.
Unlike the rodelization method described below, you are not selecting for plants that show hermaphrodite traits. The genes of the plant are completely unaffected. This method will also produce a lot of pollen consistently compared to the rodelization method.
The one downside to this method is that it is not safe to use any cannabis that has come into direct contact with colloidal silver.
You should therefore destroy the plant after the pollen has been collected.
You will also want to ensure that you clean off any remaining traces of silver off your equipment in case you accidentally contaminate another cannabis plant with silver.
Here are the main things to keep in mind when using colloidal silver spray method:

  1. Make sure you spray the cannabis with a strong enough colloidal silver solution (at least 30 PPM of silver)
  2. Spray the cannabis thoroughly to almost drench all the parts you want to turn into pollen sacs
  3. Spray the cannabis regularly, at least once a day for 10-14 days, starting when you change the lights to 12-12
  4. Spray the cannabis with colloidal silver every day until you see signs of male pollen sacs forming. Some hardy strains may need over 2-3 weeks spraying before they 'turn'.
[h=4]Where to Get Colloidal Silver[/h]Colloidal Silver is created by submersing two pieces of pure silver in distilled water, and then running an electric current between the two pieces of silver. The electric current will cause silver ions to be deposited in the water which creates a colloidal silver solution.
Buy Colloidal Silver: You can actually buy colloidal silver which has already been prepared and is ready for use. If you're purchasing colloidal silver, try to find a solution that has at least 30 PPM (parts per million) of silver. However, buying Colloidal Silver that is already prepared can get expensive.
Buy A Generator Kit: A better option is to buy a relatively cheap colloidal silver generator to easily make your own colloidal silver.This Colloidal Generator kit comes with everything you need including silver. All you need to do is provide the water and a container.
Make Your Own: You can make your own colloidal silver generator at home. The diagram below should illustrate what you need to do.
Items Needed:

  • 9 volt battery
  • 9v Battery Connector (less than $2 at a hardware or electronics store)
  • Pure .9999 or 999 Silver (yes it must be pure)
  • Distilled water (yes it must be distilled)
  • Alligator clips (Optional: but will make things much easier)
  • Soldering Iron (Optional: only needed if you want to use alligator clips)

The diagram above will show you how to easily make your own colloidal silver to make your own feminized cannabis seeds
When you first connect everything, you may be surprised because it will seem like nothing is happening. You will know if it worked by the next day because the whole process will leave a silvery residue on your silver. You may need to use sandpaper or something else rough to clean your silver each time after creating a batch of colloidal silver.
If you don't have a soldering iron and would still like to solder alligator clips onto your battery connector, then I recommend going to a hardware store and asking someone if they will help solder it for you.
Remember to keep your resulting colloidal silver solution away from any light or it will deteriorate and turn a dark gray color. If this happens, then you can no longer use the solution for creating feminized seeds.
Avoid most problems when making colloidal silver by:

  • using pure (distilled) water
  • using pure (999/.9999) silver
  • giving electrolysis enough time to work so you don't get a weak solution (at least overnight)
  • making sure the solution has as little contact with light as possible until you use it
[HR][/HR]
[h=2]How to Make Feminized Cannabis Seeds Using Rodelization[/h]
Pros:

  • All-Natural
  • Very Simple
Cons:

  • Unreliable
  • May not produce many feminized seeds
The Rodelization method is all-natural and is the simplest method to create feminized seeds, but it is also unreliable and may not produce much pollen. Basically, the premise is that some female marijuana plants will start growing male pollen sacs / sex organs if they've been left in flowering too long (past the peak point of harvest). This is a last-ditch attempt by the marijuana plant to pollinate itself so that it at least produces a few seeds. You can collect these male pods and use the pollen inside them to pollinate other female plants. You pollinate female plants by evenly covering their buds with the pollen after they've been in flowering for 2-3 weeks. Females that are pollinated in this way will start growing all-female marijuana seeds. If you're very careful, you can pollinate only some of the buds on a plant which will produce seeds, and leave other buds alone so they can still be used for consumption.
This issue with this method is that some strains of plants never seem to grow male characteristics naturally. Additionally, with this method, you're selecting for plants that have a natural genetic tendency to show male characteristics. This can possibly produce offspring that are more likely to show male characteristics themselves which may or may not be what you're going for. Lastly, even when you do get male pollen sacs from a marijuana plant in this way, there tends to be a lot less pollen than from a typical male plant.
The one great thing about this method is it's completely all-natural so you can implement this strategy with an organic grow.
 

Ringsixty

Well-Known Member
Just a note from my experience to what you copied and paste. The CS part.
You don't need to use 99.999 Fine Silver if you can't find it or afford it. 2 Silver quarters work just fine and they are only[FONT=arial, sans-serif] 90% silver, 10% copper. So Sterling Silver 925 would work too.[/FONT]
 

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
This is a writeup on a method using silver thiosulfate which has a similar mechanism of action to CS but some plants respond better to one method.
The following is a safe, inexpensive, and successful method for reversing the sex of female cannabis plants. Individual plant responses may vary based upon strain, but I can verify that this process is fully effective in stimulating profuse staminate flower production.

This process can be used to:
A: create new feminized seeds from solitary prize mothers that you currently have
B: create interesting feminized-seed hybrids from different prize strains that you currently have
C: create feminized seeds for optimum outdoor use
D: accelerate the "interview" phase of cultivation, in searching for interesting new clone-mothers
E: reduce total plant numbers- great for medical users with severe plant number restrictions
F: increase variety, by helping to create stable feminized seedlines to be used as an alternative to clones

At the bottom of this post are some specific details about the chemicals used, their safety, their cost, and where to get them.

It is important to educate yourself about cannabis breeding theory and technique prior to using a method like this one. Here is a link to Robert Clarke's "Marijuana Botany", which is a very good reference.

http://planetganja.net/Ebooks/Marijuana Botany.pdf

It is also important to use basic safety precautions when mixing and handling these chemicals, so read the safety data links provided. The risk is similar to mixing and handling chemical fertilizers, and similar handling procedures are sufficient.

Remember: nothing will ever replace good genetics, and some of your bounty should always go back towards the professional cannabis breeders out there... the ones who have worked for many generations to come up with their true-breeding F1 masterpieces. Support professional breeders by buying their seeds. Also, order from Heaven's Stairway. Not that they need a plug from me, but they are very professional and provide very fast service worldwide.

Preparation of STS:
First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and B) that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

Part A: 0.5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water
Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (B) while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.

Application:
The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

Effects:
Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidently. Point downwind; don't let it get on your hands or clothes.

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very carefulollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes it's flowering cycle.

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

About the chemicals:
Silver nitrate is a white crystalline light-sensitive chemical that is commonly used in photography. It is also used in babies' eyes at birth to prevent blindness. It can cause mild skin irritation, and it stains brown. Avoid breathing. I didn't notice any smell or fumes, but ventilation is recommended. Be sure to wash the spray bottle well before you use it elsewhere; better yet: devote a bottle to STS use. A half gram is a surprisingly small amount; it would fit inside a gel capsule.

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

.preparation of silver thiosulfate (sts) solution

silver thiosulfate (sts) is commonly used to block the action of ethylene in plant cell cultures. Ethylene is a hormone that is present in the gaseous state. Ethylene increases during senescence and ripening, and has been shown to increase in plant cell cultures due to wounding or the presence of auxins. Silver nitrate may be used alone to block the action of ethylene but it is not transported as well as sts thus is seldom used alone.

Prepare a 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate (sts) stock solution by dissolving 1.58 g of sodium thiosulfate (product no. S 620) into 100 ml of water. Prepare a 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution by dissolving 1.7 g of silver nitrate (product no. S 169) into 100 ml of water. Store the stock solution in the dark until needed to prepare the sts.

The sts solution is prepared with a molar ratio between silver and thiosulfate of 1:4, respectively. Nearly all of the silver present in the solution is in the form of [ag (s2o3)2]3-, the active complex for ethylene effect inhibition.
Prepare a 0.02 m sts by slowly pouring 20 ml of 0.1 m silver nitrate stock solution into 80 ml of 0.1 m sodium thiosulfate stock solution. The sts can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. However, preparation of the sts just prior to use is recommended.
 

SxIstew

Well-Known Member
Thanks! Anyone else with any info to throw in for the rest of us growers?? Trying to get a collection of Feminized seed making methods on RIU for everyone to be able to try out.
 

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
CS and STS are the ones I would suggest and I'm glad we have a thread with both methods in the first page. I really don't recommend any other methods because they all involve stressing the plant to the point where it herms. Much better to do so by manipulating hormones.
 

SxIstew

Well-Known Member
Gonna try to talk to the MODs about making this a Sticky...... Gonna go look for that now and PM someone. :)
 

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
It really should be. Fems are a much more logical breeding method for small scale hobby breeders. Even for large scale breeding they have many advantages.
 

SxIstew

Well-Known Member
I've just noticed that there are a lot of threads that either fell off the map in the last 4 years or just don't exist on here anymore.
So rather than just running through the pages to find which posts to BUMP up the list,
I just make this one with relevant information on the subject. Even if it was taken from another site. It is clearly stated. :)


:)
 

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
Why bother rewriting good guides when they can just be consolidated. I wish I could credit the original author but alas I got that copy pasted at least second hand.
 

wahoo

Active Member
Here's the kit I just made for myself as I'm over buying feminized seeds. Time to make my own :)


DSCN2121.jpg DSCN2122.jpg

Not to bad for $50 considering how much $$$ this will save me in the long run!!!
 

MrEDuck

Well-Known Member
You can get a kit from colloidalsilverguy.com as well. He'll send you one for free if you don't have the money to buy one but I would encourage everyone who can to be a good person and pay for the generator, they're quite cheap.
 

wahoo

Active Member
You can get a kit from colloidalsilverguy.com as well. He'll send you one for free if you don't have the money to buy one but I would encourage everyone who can to be a good person and pay for the generator, they're quite cheap.
Looks good I wish I had of known LOL. I'm in oz so it would have cost me more than $50 to get one here, (Amazon wanted $70 to get a bottle of 50 ppm delivered) so thats why I built my own.

Peace
 

Galvatron

Well-Known Member
Instead of the 9v battery it's easier to use a old cell phone charger. That's what I use and I use 99.99% not 99.999% silver wire that's used for old lady hobby crafting. Works fine for me so far, the wire was 20$ USD on amazon and will last a long time. What I do is run the cs ggenerator for 8-12 hrs then clean off the electrodes then run it again for 8-12 hrs. After that just spray your plants twice a day for two weeks and they should reverse, some plants are more resistant to reversing but they all do sooner or later just don't give up. Then the real work comes in where you have to harvest pollen and either store it or use it. It's all more simple than you would think. Doesn't take a scientist to do it, it's more like a high school science project in terms of difficulty. It's good to have a ppm meter on hand but not necessary. Personally I think selecting a male is a whole lot easier and better in the long term but feminizing does have its uses especially if you have plant limits and can't waste one on a male.
 

wahoo

Active Member
Instead of the 9v battery it's easier to use a old cell phone charger
Did you mean cell phone battery? I wouldn't want to mess with high voltage wires and plug that straight into an out let LOL.

Yeah it is easier with males to make beans, but if your guerrilla growing (which I'm doing shortly) no point in digging nice big holes only to find out half your efforts have been taken up by males. Would rather make feminized beans to take out and know there female.

I do have a PPM meter so I'm all good.

So how do you use your cell phone batter/charger?
 

Chronicknowledge42o

Active Member
CS and STS are the ones I would suggest and I'm glad we have a thread with both methods in the first page. I really don't recommend any other methods because they all involve stressing the plant to the point where it herms. Much better to do so by manipulating hormones.

Would something like this work ?

http://www.nutraways.com/product.asp?itemid=8679&gclid=CMjW68PTxrkCFdFDMgodcjEAsg

or this ?

https://www.vitashop.ca/colloidal-silver-/685-colloidal-silver-spray-30ml.html
 
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