how to clone

theone718

Member
Waddup guys, I was wonder ing how to clone my lsd plant? Also how big should the cut be for a clone? Im also going to clone in water than transfer to soil 2 days later? And also guys this is my 3rd harvest first time cloning
 

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racerboy71

bud bootlegger
i'd take that top right off of her, the branch there in the middle...

you can do the water method, works fine, so long as, well, i'll just tell you what i do...

i have a kids sippy cup, plastic job, and it has a plastic straw built right into it.. wouldn't you know, the plastic straw fits and old airline i had laying around left over from my o2 boost buckets..
i strip the outer layer off the bottom inch or so of the clone stem with a clean razor blade, dip in gel or powder or w/e you prefer, then i put the clone in the sippy cup, run the air hose into the straw part of the sippy cup, then the other end to an air pump i had laying around.. the airline and pump keep the water nicely oxygenated, which i think helps greatly with the rooting... if you can't rig some sort of airline, i'd suggest just changing the water a lot as the oxygen gets depleted, at least once a day imo..
you can also put a humidity dome over the clones, and mist once or so a day till they root.. once you see roots, usually a week to ten days, strain dependent, then i put them in soil or rapid rooters or w/e i feel like using that day.. once they start to get bumps, you can take off the dome and stop misting them imo..
 

racerboy71

bud bootlegger
I u suggesting I take off the middle branch or the side branch for a clone
either one you like, i'd most likely take the middle one.. where you cut, two or more will grow back in it's place..

oh yeah, forgot to mention, i'd take at least two nodes down on the clone you cut..
 

snoyl

Active Member
Take the growing tip off-see where the stem goes at a "Y" shape?Cut at the next node down.Once youve done that,just cut the stem at an angle about 10mm below the start of the Y,then cut those two leaves off that form the Y.What you do then is up to you,personally I dip mine in rooting gel right up past where the leaves were trimmed then put it in a rapid rooter plug,although Ive heard its possible to root them by sitting them in water.I like to use the plugs cause it protects the fragile new roots,and once they grow out the plug its easy just to plant it.
I hope that makes sense,Im not too good at explaining things.Theres loads of videos on you tube although I personally prefer simple written instructions with diagrams and theres plenty of them too.
Best of luck.

Ps.Humidity is the key to succesful cloning.!
 

frizzlegooch

Well-Known Member
either one you like, i'd most likely take the middle one.. where you cut, two or more will grow back in it's place..

oh yeah, forgot to mention, i'd take at least two nodes down on the clone you cut..
i read somewhere that the lower branches have more naturally ocurring root hormone inside them ( they root faster) then top branches.

i guess this isnt quite true then?
 

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
i read somewhere that the lower branches have more naturally ocurring root hormone inside them ( they root faster) then top branches.

i guess this isnt quite true then?
In the wild the lower branches are sent out "like" vine "like" branches that will root to create new plant growth but these are never fully seperated from the plant from which it came from.
I use stimroot #2 from lowes or the local hydro shop. Use as directed. I started using bailed rockwool insulation instead of buying the regular grow rockwool. It's a bit more difficult to work with but a bail will last a lifetime and roots just as good. I soak my cubes in spent res water to ensure the snips get needed nutrients as soon as the roots start. Aside from my regular mini-greenhouse I have fashioned a bin using a square bucket. I have drilled several 1/4" holes in the bottom and a hole low in the side for air about the size of a nickle. I set the cubes down on a single layer of rock for air and drainage. After the cubes and rocks are situated I pour res water over it before I plant the snips in the cubes. Then a light misting with fresh water and on goes the polythene lid and under the light it goes. This little mini-bin does nine. I scored a $2 clear plastic shower curtain from lowes to cut up for poly.
 

racerboy71

bud bootlegger
i read somewhere that the lower branches have more naturally ocurring root hormone inside them ( they root faster) then top branches.

i guess this isnt quite true then?
usually, the less woody a branch, the sooner it'll root, but your plant looks plenty young enough for that not to be a real issue..
 

dannyboy602

Well-Known Member
I always noticed the top middle part seemed to root better than other lower side shoots. Not necessarily faster but it was more robust. And if you're gonna harvest a plant for cuttings you don't want to end up with a long, lanky mother. You want it rather compact. The only shoots I never use are the spindly skinny ones at the very bottom. Those actually can be rooted but I never use them I just trash them. Cause that's just how I roll.
 

Budbrother69

Active Member
rapid rooters + gel + humidity dome = 95-100% success. Keep cuts under water to prevent air being sucked up into stem(cant remember the term for this) make diagonal cut with razor blade at a node under water then dip in rooting hormone gel then into rapid rooters then into 100% humidity dome with heat mat until they root. super easy only need to add water every 4 days ish and they root in 7-14 depending on where you took the cut. I even get little suckers to root this way and they stay green all the way until transplant.
 

Budbrother69

Active Member
rapid rooters + gel + humidity dome = 95-100% success. Keep cuts under water to prevent air being sucked up into stem(cant remember the term for this) make diagonal cut with razor blade at a node under water then dip in rooting hormone gel then into rapid rooters then into 100% humidity dome with heat mat until they root. super easy only need to add water every 4 days ish and they root in 7-14 depending on where you took the cut. I even get little suckers to root this way and they stay green all the way until transplant.
I suggested the rapid rooters because you said you would be transplanting to soil, I grow in soil and it makes transplanting very easy. Also by the time multiple roots are poking through rapid rooters they have a bunch more that you cannot see that are hidden inside, Ive used an aero cloner before and transplanted too soon into soil when they had tiny roots and they did not fare as well as this method.
 

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
For people that aren't so handy with a blade...I bought a pair of surgical scissors to cut the snips with and it does just as good as a razor:)
 

Growan

Well-Known Member
If you really want to run with th KISS philosophy, cut a branch/shoot diagonally, scrape the tip, stick it in moist medium (soil in my case) cover with dome made from a coke bottle. If it's warm and stays moist, my limited experience says it'll probably root, even if it kooks like nothing's happening. Use a small pot. Real small like shot glass size. When the roots hit the sides pot up.

The above methods are way better for many reasons, but this way is basically free. If you want 4 clones, take 6 or 7. Then you're covered in case of loss
 

frizzlegooch

Well-Known Member
soils giving me a shitty sucess rate,

but yeah i guess that makes sense...

makes me wonder if clones have ever happened naturally like from an animal snapping a branch or something
 

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
I always go with the powder and I don't scape 'em anymore. Make the hole in the rooting medium to insert the snip, then clip the shoot, stick the cut end into the powder and knock off the extra. Stick the treated snip into the hole that you made for it.
This is where the spike(or whatever you're using) to make the hole is suppose to be stuck...not in the plant...:)
 
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