How long does it take for a plant to react to a flush in soil?

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ThoughtlessIllusions

New Member
It seems like I fed the XJ13 plant I am growing too many nutes and slowly caused it to create nutrient lock out. About 5 days ago I flushed the plant and have been giving it nothing but pure water since then. I am running Fox Farm Ocean Forest Blend and was using AN Big Bud. Right now the leave tips are browning and curling more than they were yesterday, making me feel the lockout is still taking place. The leaves are dark green and a large portion of the upper branches are redish purple. I can provide pics in a bit.

Could this still be due to lockout or should I be feeding the plant a quarter the amount of nutrients and see how it responds? The systems are similar to that of phosphorous deficiency, only problem is they started before I started the flush. I tested the soil ph and it is near neutral, so I don't think excess buildup is the case. Only issue is I don't have a tds meter so I can't tell the PPM in the runoff (but it still is showing a slight brown tint, which I assume is normal for soil)
 
Jimmy Sparkle

Jimmy Sparkle

Well-Known Member
ThoughtlessIllusions said:
It seems like I fed the XJ13 plant I am growing too many nutes and slowly caused it to create nutrient lock out. About 5 days ago I flushed the plant and have been giving it nothing but pure water since then. I am running Fox Farm Ocean Forest Blend and was using AN Big Bud. Right now the leave tips are browning and curling more than they were yesterday, making me feel the lockout is still taking place. The leaves are dark green and a large portion of the upper branches are redish purple. I can provide pics in a bit.

Could this still be due to lockout or should I be feeding the plant a quarter the amount of nutrients and see how it responds? The systems are similar to that of phosphorous deficiency, only problem is they started before I started the flush. I tested the soil ph and it is near neutral, so I don't think excess buildup is the case. Only issue is I don't have a tds meter so I can't tell the PPM in the runoff (but it still is showing a slight brown tint, which I assume is normal for soil)
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We need to see it my friend. I doubt it's lock out but more likely the ffof being hot. How old is the plant? What strain it is? Temps? There's more we need to know for all I know It could be a deficiency where you need cal/mag.
 
T

ThoughtlessIllusions

New Member
Jimmy Sparkle said:
We need to see it my friend. I doubt it's lock out but more likely the ffof being hot. How old is the plant? What strain it is? Temps? There's more we need to know for all I know It could be a deficiency where you need cal/mag.
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The strain is XJ13, it is 5 weeks into flower (35 days), light on temp is around 80 and light off averages 72.

And in reply to SPL, I think I made a beginner mistake where I took beginning signs of lockout or possible cal/mag deficiency and assumed it was phosphorous deficiency, so the addition of more nutrients just threw it overboard.

Here are photos of the leaves. The buds have not been affected.
 

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Jimmy Sparkle

Jimmy Sparkle

Well-Known Member
ThoughtlessIllusions said:
The strain is XJ13, it is 5 weeks into flower (35 days), light on temp is around 80 and light off averages 72.

And in reply to SPL, I think I made a beginner mistake where I took beginning signs of lockout or possible cal/mag deficiency and assumed it was phosphorous deficiency, so the addition of more nutrients just threw it overboard.

Here are photos of the leaves. The buds have not been affected.
Click to expand...
I was kinda thinking that's what may have happened . Ffof not much cal/mag there wouldn't hurt to add it. No more flushing or you will cause more damage from lack of nutrients ...
 
SPLFreak808

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
ThoughtlessIllusions said:
The strain is XJ13, it is 5 weeks into flower (35 days), light on temp is around 80 and light off averages 72.

And in reply to SPL, I think I made a beginner mistake where I took beginning signs of lockout or possible cal/mag deficiency and assumed it was phosphorous deficiency, so the addition of more nutrients just threw it overboard.

Here are photos of the leaves. The buds have not been affected.
Click to expand...
How low do your temps go? Do you water with room temperature water? Any yellowing or chlorosis on the plant before tou flushed? When you seen the issue, did the plant seem to drink slower or at the same rate?
 
T

ThoughtlessIllusions

New Member
Jimmy Sparkle said:
I was kinda thinking that's what may have happened . Ffof not much cal/mag there wouldn't hurt to add it. No more flushing or you will cause more damage from lack of nutrients ...
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Any suggestions on what to use? I heard molasses is good for mg? What about cal?

SPLFreak808 said:
How low do your temps go? Do you water with room temperature water? Any yellowing or chlorosis on the plant before tou flushed? When you seen the issue, did the plant seem to drink slower or at the same rate?
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Lowest temp would be 70 but that is rare, usually only hits 72 at night. Water is slightly below room temp but still above 60. No yellowing but the problem began as red petioles and red streaks on the stems, then turned into more red petioles and burnt leaf tips. Water uptake never slowed.

Now I am just worried because the burning is getting larger on the leaf ends. If it was too much fert I would figure it would stop once I finish flushing.
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
During flowering , nute requirements change. The red stems looks typical of a ( P ) deficiency , adding the appropriate nutes ( bloom ) during this stage is critical. Now that you flushed medium , dont give her anything until next watering ( dry soil ). Then INTRODUCE a mild feeding ( since she has been thru the wringer already ).

Forget the boosters and other additives for this run , just keep her happy for next 3 weeks.
Week 5-8 is the bud building time and you dont want to keep stressing her.

FFOF has enough nutes by itself to carry a plant up to week 5 !
 
Jimmy Sparkle

Jimmy Sparkle

Well-Known Member
ThoughtlessIllusions said:
Any suggestions on what to use? I heard molasses is good for mg? What about cal?



Lowest temp would be 70 but that is rare, usually only hits 72 at night. Water is slightly below room temp but still above 60. No yellowing but the problem began as red petioles and red streaks on the stems, then turned into more red petioles and burnt leaf tips. Water uptake never slowed.

Now I am just worried because the burning is getting larger on the leaf ends. If it was too much fert I would figure it would stop once I finish flushing.
Click to expand...
Cal/mag deficiency can look like over fertilization as well , so can being deficient in N. Ffof has more than enough nutrients. You wouldn't have N def there or phosphorus either. No more flushing, and get some botanicare cal mag plus. It's pretty cheap for how far it goes . You could use Epsom salts and molasses but I personally don't. Red purple can be very normal unless you are very deficient in phosphorus which you aren't.
 
vostok

vostok

Well-Known Member
ThoughtlessIllusions said:
It seems like I fed the XJ13 plant I am growing too many nutes and slowly caused it to create nutrient lock out. About 5 days ago I flushed the plant and have been giving it nothing but pure water since then. I am running Fox Farm Ocean Forest Blend and was using AN Big Bud. Right now the leave tips are browning and curling more than they were yesterday, making me feel the lockout is still taking place. The leaves are dark green and a large portion of the upper branches are redish purple. I can provide pics in a bit.

Could this still be due to lockout or should I be feeding the plant a quarter the amount of nutrients and see how it responds? The systems are similar to that of phosphorous deficiency, only problem is they started before I started the flush. I tested the soil ph and it is near neutral, so I don't think excess buildup is the case. Only issue is I don't have a tds meter so I can't tell the PPM in the runoff (but it still is showing a slight brown tint, which I assume is normal for soil)
Click to expand...
I always use 30% perlite with my FFOF and even then very little nute its very hot soil ..as u have found

flush with 3 times the pot for immediate relief results

you are washing away the excess nutes in and around the the roots exobate

but it sounds like you are maybe too late, in that case I'd..

extract the plant with consideration to the fucked roots and replant

in current shit soil 33% and 66% perlite.. water well allow, to drain in dim light, or over night

good luck
 
SPLFreak808

SPLFreak808

Well-Known Member
ThoughtlessIllusions said:
Any suggestions on what to use? I heard molasses is good for mg? What about cal?



Lowest temp would be 70 but that is rare, usually only hits 72 at night. Water is slightly below room temp but still above 60. No yellowing but the problem began as red petioles and red streaks on the stems, then turned into more red petioles and burnt leaf tips. Water uptake never slowed.

Now I am just worried because the burning is getting larger on the leaf ends. If it was too much fert I would figure it would stop once I finish flushing.
Click to expand...
If you want, you can try a tablespoon of epsom salts to a gallon of water and foliar the fan leaves without touching the buds. Just mist them, no need to get them dripping wet.
I also feel it could be a trace mineral issue, i used to get them all the time in ocean forest especially when the soil conpacts on itself but dont take my word for it.
Carfull with the AN lol
 
T

ThoughtlessIllusions

New Member
Budzbuddha said:
During flowering , nute requirements change. The red stems looks typical of a ( P ) deficiency , adding the appropriate nutes ( bloom ) during this stage is critical. Now that you flushed medium , dont give her anything until next watering ( dry soil ). Then INTRODUCE a mild feeding ( since she has been thru the wringer already ).

Forget the boosters and other additives for this run , just keep her happy for next 3 weeks.
Week 5-8 is the bud building time and you dont want to keep stressing her.

FFOF has enough nutes by itself to carry a plant up to week 5 !
Click to expand...
So you're saying to add nutes again when I water it next time? Just at what, 1/4th concentration?

Jimmy Sparkle said:
Cal/mag deficiency can look like over fertilization as well , so can being deficient in N. Ffof has more than enough nutrients. You wouldn't have N def there or phosphorus either. No more flushing, and get some botanicare cal mag plus. It's pretty cheap for how far it goes . You could use Epsom salts and molasses but I personally don't. Red purple can be very normal unless you are very deficient in phosphorus which you aren't.
Click to expand...
I'll check it out. Also it would be worth adding that I use filtered tap water and not RO water, would this change the possibility of it being a cal/mag deficiency?
 
Jimmy Sparkle

Jimmy Sparkle

Well-Known Member
ThoughtlessIllusions said:
So you're saying to add nutes again when I water it next time? Just at what, 1/4th concentration?



I'll check it out. Also it would be worth adding that I use filtered tap water and not RO water, would this change the possibility of it being a cal/mag deficiency?
Click to expand...
You do need all those minerals and things you are filtering out. I just use straight tap water chloramine and all 7 pH. but if you like filtered then o.k
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Molasses to me ONLY really benefits the microbial life in the soil which loves the simple sugars it provides. Some say it enhances taste , but it makes little sense to try to " mask or sweeten " the individual characteristics of your growing strains.

But ... If i do use it ....
I add 1 tsp . Per gallon of water or finished mix. I do soil , but hear it can be a bitch with recirculating systems. It does " temper " the stinkier strains ( cheeses and diesels ) but i do add once in awhile. CalMag should always be part of your tool chest of nutes and additives.

I really try to leave FFOF as is because of all of the goodies already it.
If it aint broke why fix it.
 
VenomGrower6990

VenomGrower6990

Well-Known Member
Awww.. ok that alone can cause the stems to change color and it also tends to create Cal/Mag deficiencies growing in the FFOF.
 
T

ThoughtlessIllusions

New Member
Budzbuddha said:
Molasses to me ONLY really benefits the microbial life in the soil which loves the simple sugars it provides. Some say it enhances taste , but it makes little sense to try to " mask or sweeten " the individual characteristics of your growing strains.

But ... If i do use it ....
I add 1 tsp . Per gallon of water or finished mix. I do soil , but hear it can be a bitch with recirculating systems. It does " temper " the stinkier strains ( cheeses and diesels ) but i do add once in awhile. CalMag should always be part of your tool chest of nutes and additives.

I really try to leave FFOF as is because of all of the goodies already it.
If it aint broke why fix it.
Click to expand...
Sounds good. I'll let it dry out and just feed it pure water for a bit and see how it continues to react.
 
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