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help watering/nutes

Label

Active Member
Alright, so after transplanting my ladies into 5 gallon buckets it now takes longer for those buckets to dry out between waterings/feedings. It is about 5-6 days until I feel that it is dry enough for me to water again. A question I have from what I have read is that you feed every other watering. If I Feed wait 5-6 days water wait 5-6 days that would be about 10-12 days between feedings. This seems pretty high to me. What should I do? I should probably add that I give 1 gallon of water when watering/feeding. The plants have given me no signs that the soil is staying to wet, I have about 25-30% perlite in my soil. It drains well when I water/feed. Any input is very helpfull!


Thank you,
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zubey91

Well-Known Member
You understand when you feed, the soil is soaking in the nutes n water and the roots suck it up as it sucks the water up right? You also need to give it more than one gallon if you are using 5 gallon buckets
 

Cobnobuler

Well-Known Member
What kind of lighting are you using. ? Thats important. Learn the weight of the pots when they are just about dry so you know when to water them. The stronger the light the more often you will be able to water them. One of the problems I see with CFL lighting is they just dont get the plants thirsty as often as say MH or HPS lamps do.
 

Label

Active Member
You understand when you feed, the soil is soaking in the nutes n water and the roots suck it up as it sucks the water up right? You also need to give it more than one gallon if you are using 5 gallon buckets
I do realize that that it sucks the nutrients up and that the roots then in turn also suck the water/nutes up. will the plants uptake all of the nutreints that are dosed in that 6 day perieod before giving more water? If so after the next watering they will continue to uptake what is left. What I am getting at is wont they run out and start getting hungry before day 10-12?

thank you,
Label
 

Label

Active Member
What kind of lighting are you using. ? Thats important. Learn the weight of the pots when they are just about dry so you know when to water them. The stronger the light the more often you will be able to water them. One of the problems I see with CFL lighting is they just dont get the plants thirsty as often as say MH or HPS lamps do.

400w mh and soon to be about 180 more watts of cfl

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Nullis

Moderator
I do realize that that it sucks the nutrients up and that the roots then in turn also suck the water/nutes up. will the plants uptake all of the nutreints that are dosed in that 6 day perieod before giving more water? If so after the next watering they will continue to uptake what is left. What I am getting at is wont they run out and start getting hungry before day 10-12
All of this really depends on plant genetics and what you've got going on in the rhizosphere (where the root meets the soil\media). I assume you're growing in soil? What's in the potting mix (besides perlite)?

I'll tell you a secret about soil. Soil was designed to nourish plants, practically all by itself. One of the things that soil\potting mix does is retain nutrients. Soil outdoors generally has some clay and also some humus content. Clay particles tend to be very fine, smaller than silt and sand particles. Humus is formed as a result of the decay of plant materials and detritus by soil micro-organisms. Humus is thoroughly decomposed, it is essentially finished compost and very similar to earthworm castings (both of which are very nutrient rich). Clay\humus is important in soil for the retention of nutrients. Plant roots mostly take in (assimilate) mineral nutrients as ions, or charged particles. Cations are those ligands with a net positive charge. Many nutrients such as potassium (K+), calcium (Ca++), magnesium (Mg++), zinc (Zn++), manganese (Mn++) and sodium (Na++) are available as cations. Materials such as clay\humus and even coco coir and spagnum peat possess this ability (cation exchange capacity). The cations are attracted to and loosely bound by negatively charged "exchange sites", so they don't wash away but the plant roots still can absorb them.

Another thing about soil\potting mix with compost to consider is the microbes themselves. Various microbes live in healthy soil and these have evolved with plants, many have formed symbiotic relationships with plants. Some such as mycorrhizal fungi form quite intimate relationships with plant roots, and are able to seek out nutrients and water in exchange for carbon. Some bacteria\archaea like to live in association with plant roots and are able to "fix" plant available nitrogen from the atmosphere. Other microbes play myriad roles in the rhizosphere are serve to benefit the plant either directly or indirectly; mineralizing, releasing, or retaining nutrients, keeping pathogens at bay or producing important compounds. Plant roots actually 'exude' or secrete various substances (plant root exudates) including carbohydrates\simple sugars in order to attrack microbes to the rhizosphere or stimulate microbial activity.

If you look at it from this perspective you can see that depending on the circumstances, even an indoor container plant could potentially go quite a while without any fertilizer, or with minor exogenous nutrients.
 

Label

Active Member
All of this really depends on plant genetics and what you've got going on in the rhizosphere (where the root meets the soil\media). I assume you're growing in soil? What's in the potting mix (besides perlite)?

I'll tell you a secret about soil. Soil was designed to nourish plants, practically all by itself. One of the things that soil\potting mix does is retain nutrients. Soil outdoors generally has some clay and also some humus content. Clay particles tend to be very fine, smaller than silt and sand particles. Humus is formed as a result of the decay of plant materials and detritus by soil micro-organisms. Humus is thoroughly decomposed, it is essentially finished compost and very similar to earthworm castings (both of which are very nutrient rich). Clay\humus is important in soil for the retention of nutrients. Plant roots mostly take in (assimilate) mineral nutrients as ions, or charged particles. Cations are those ligands with a net positive charge. Many nutrients such as potassium (K+), calcium (Ca++), magnesium (Mg++), zinc (Zn++), manganese (Mn++) and sodium (Na++) are available as cations. Materials such as clay\humus and even coco coir and spagnum peat possess this ability (cation exchange capacity). The cations are attracted to and loosely bound by negatively charged "exchange sites", so they don't wash away but the plant roots still can absorb them.

Another thing about soil\potting mix with compost to consider is the microbes themselves. Various microbes live in healthy soil and these have evolved with plants, many have formed symbiotic relationships with plants. Some such as mycorrhizal fungi form quite intimate relationships with plant roots, and are able to seek out nutrients and water in exchange for carbon. Some bacteria\archaea like to live in association with plant roots and are able to "fix" plant available nitrogen from the atmosphere. Other microbes play myriad roles in the rhizosphere are serve to benefit the plant either directly or indirectly; mineralizing, releasing, or retaining nutrients, keeping pathogens at bay or producing important compounds. Plant roots actually 'exude' or secrete various substances (plant root exudates) including carbohydrates\simple sugars in order to attrack microbes to the rhizosphere or stimulate microbial activity.

If you look at it from this perspective you can see that depending on the circumstances, even an indoor container plant could potentially go quite a while without any fertilizer, or with minor exogenous nutrients.
It is actually Sta-Green garden soil mixed with Perlite. Has been working great so far other than me not feeding them and letting them get root bound when they where in 1 gallon pots. They have since stopped showing any nutrient deficiencies in the leaves and have grown a very large amount after moving them to the 5 gallon pots and feeding them. I just want to make sure that they do not get underfed like I had previously done while they where in the 1 gallon containers. That happened because I was very hesitant on feeding them in fear of burning them, now quite the opposite has happened and I am afraid I will not give them enough food.

Thanks,
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Jbone77

Well-Known Member
Feed, water, feed is fine. If you are using 1 gallon of water in a 5 gallon bucket you arent letting it dry out enough. I grow in 100% perlite 3.5 gallon hempy buckets and I use 1 gallon on them and they dont absorb water like soil does. Just sayin
 

Label

Active Member
Sounds good. The soil seems dry enough to me. The weight of the buckets now vs when I watered them is far less. I feel its time to water them.
 

Nullis

Moderator
Oh yeah, like you said you transplanted them into much larger containers recently. After a good watering it is normal for the soil to remain wet for several days. Roots are just starting to grow into the fresh soil; once they do you should begin to notice that they'll need water more frequently.

The Sta-Green stuff, as many other like it, probably contains slow release synthetic nutrients (says "feeds up to 6 or 9 months"). Be careful giving anything else if the plant doesn't really look like it needs it.
 

Label

Active Member
Oh yeah, like you said you transplanted them into much larger containers recently. After a good watering it is normal for the soil to remain wet for several days. Roots are just starting to grow into the fresh soil; once they do you should begin to notice that they'll need water more frequently.

The Sta-Green stuff, as many other like it, probably contains slow release synthetic nutrients (says "feeds up to 6 or 9 months"). Be careful giving anything else if the plant doesn't really look like it needs it.
Thanks a ton for the input.I didn't even think that would be a reason why it would stay wet longer...and I have read that before.::face palm:: I also the ratio of that soil says .05-.04-.03 and seems pretty mild, probably even less as I mixed it with like 25-30% perlite. My issue earlier was that I failed to feed them enough lol. Any who, I think you hit the nail on the head nullis and when they have a larger root mass they will cause the soil to dry faster.

Thanks,
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Stayblunted2000

Active Member
I feed mine once a week with ff nutes calmag plus and they love it .. I want give them nutes if I was u u because u just transplant them ur meduim should have nutes in it
 
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