Grow tent Pressure

cannabis analyst

Active Member
OK, so I had someone build a 24"x36"x51" wood frame that I plan on lining with some kind of reflective material, but before I do any of that, I had a question regarding the pressure inside the tent. I have always read that your exhaust fan needs to be more powerful than your intake in order to create negative pressure. The guy who built the frame for me said that since I will be using a carbon filter, the pressure needs to be positive, so I have a huge intake fan and a smaller outtake fan (obviously I could solve this problem by simply turning the fans around if I do in fact need negative pressure). He said that the concept is for the air to push itself out. Does this sound right? I've done a few grows before in a PC and this is my first investment in a "real" grow so I would appreciate any help I could get. I attached a picture I took of the frame for reference. Thanks so much,
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The Anaylst
 

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
no it sounds wrong to me, forcing air into an enclosure in order to force the existing air in the enclosure out requires a lot more energy than extracting "sucking" it out

you want a large powerful inline fan that will extract the air through the carbon filter, and a smaller fan blowing cooler fresh air at the bottom
this will cause a negative pressure , and will also help to stop smell leaking out of the tent
 

smoke and coke

Well-Known Member
you want to have the fan pulling air from the top of the room and exhaust it out. you want a passive intake (no fan) near the bottom. the passive intake hole will be a little larger than your exhaust hole. so a 6" exhaust will need an 8" passive intake hole. this will create a negative pressure inside the room. it will help get rid of heat better and no odor leaks out.

i would get a sheet of 1/8" luan or paneling for the walls and paint it flat white or put panda plastic on the paneling. you will find its better to have a solid surface wall than a wall of panda film getting sucked in by negative pressure.
 

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
if he wants an active intake this is ok, but unnecessary unless heat becomes an issue also a fan near the bottom circulating the cool fresh air around the plants is a good idea
 

Metasynth

Well-Known Member
What these guys said. You definately wanna tell your friend he's right(even though he's wrong), but don't listen to a thing he says without double checking with a reliable source.
 

idoitmovin

Member
Smoke and Coke has the right idea, Negative pressure with the vacuum made by the inline fan pulling the hot air from the top of the room, therefore pulling in any vented fresh air from near the floor or outside. if money isn't an issue, put a filter on each end for maximum efficiency. i put a $25 DIY 5gal bucket filter on the exhaust of my 6" inline. pure miracle for the senses....and my babies. best of luck:bigjoint:
 

Peragro

Member
To reiterate: the "positive pressure" thing is dead wrong. Negative pressure is necessary to ensure odor elimination (filter and fan should be equally matched in CFM rating and a speed control should be used for such a small space). Positive pressure would cause odors to leak out any available opening...

I'd line that frame with Melamine-covered 1/8" Masonite/paneling. It should be about $10~$20 per 49"x97"x1/8" sheet. My reasoning is that it is durable, the plastic (Melamine) will already be white (no messing around with paint/films), and it'll give you one-piece surfaces in the sizes you need (easy to clean). Just caulk the frame before you lay it in (or use construction adhesive) and caulk the corners afterward (from the inside) and it should be sealed pretty near airtight. If your dimensions are correct this can be done with three sheets (but I'd recommend a seamless floor; that'll require another sheet).

I'd recommend installing the paneling on the inside, then insulating the box with styrene foam sheet ("pink board") to help stabilize the interior temperature. Exterior sheathing can be anything you want (to camouflage the box if necessary). I'd use 7/16" OSB sheathing with a Tyvek vapor barrier inside - sort of like building a "house within a room/closet" - because I have no need (legal or otherwise) to hide my cabinet. It may help (considering how your frame was constructed) to glue the melamine/paneling to the styrene, then glue/caulk them in place on the frame.

The 6:8 (exhaust to passive intake) ratio mentioned eariler is right on. I've posted a design for a light trap in another thread (it's rectangular so you'll need to do some basic math and finish carpentry - and know how to use a router - to make it suit your application). You can also alter it a bit to use standard-sized HVAC filters (the intake should have MERV 7 prefilter [outside]; MERV 11 final filter [inside]). These should capture most spores/pollen/pests and the scrap from the Melamine-covered panels would do nicely for the panels with some actual lumber (or plywood/MDF) for the frame. You'll want to at least prime (two coats) any bare wood.

This will only really "work" if the rest of the enclosure is well sealed, of course. Low-expansion "Great Stuff", low-VOC silicone caulk, and neoprene "weather stripping" are your friends as far as sealing things up go. Also; magnets/plates to help keep the door(s) closed/sealed are a good idea even if you use a padlock/hasp (which you totally should whether you live alone or not).

Speaking of which; I see no provisions for a door on your picture. How are you planning to get inside to tend the garden? I could see a "pull out" wall working in your frame but it will require careful measuring and a steady hand (a $25 electric "hot wire" foam cutter will be invaluable).
 
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