Fertilisers and high number NPK

tucknub

Member
Is it better to have higher numbers or lower for fertilizers...? (I feel like an idiot after re-reading and noticing I spelled fertilizer wrong..from now on I will use fert. lol)

Sometimes I see people using small numbers like 3-10-1 (some bat guano) and then I see some flowering of 0-54-32...

Are the numbers that are higher a lot better..or does that mean you need to use less of it?
 

mkay420

Active Member
the numbers are used to tell you how much of each nute is in the product, use is dependent on your plants/soils needs for each and you find the one that best correlates to what you need.
 

tucknub

Member
the numbers are used to tell you how much of each nute is in the product, use is dependent on your plants/soils needs for each and you find the one that best correlates to what you need.
I am currently growing Nirvana White Widow and AK 48 with 2 x 42watt and 2x 26watt cfls in Happy Frog Soil on an 18/6 schedule (136 watts in a small grow cab). They are about 13 days from seed and looking beautiful...but I know that I am going to be needing some good nutes soon.

Do these certain strains need different nutes..or can I get something that will satisfy both equally? I didn't know if I should search for the numbers in the 10s, 20s, or even 50s...or there are some even down in the single digits. I just want the best for my babies..
 

mkay420

Active Member
you should be cool with the same nutes for all your plants unless you start to see burn or deficiencies in one or the other. ill post a link to some info in a sec just gotta find it.
 

mkay420

Active Member
07-29-2009, 12:20 PM

LUDACRIS
Mr.Ganja
Mr. Ganja

Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,614



permalink
Application: Fertilising
To grow to a large size, marijuana requires a steady supply of nutrients. These can be added to the soil before planting or anytime during growth. Bulk fertilisers are added while the soil is mixed. These include manures, composts, humus, and concentrated fertilisers, such as rose food. Once the plants are growing, never condition or mulch indoor soils with bulk fertilisers. they promote moulds and fungi and attract other pests to the garden. Concentrated fertilisers can damage the plants if they come in direct contact with the stem or roots.
While the plants are growing, nutrients are given in solution; they are dissolved in water, and the plants are watered as usual. Soluble fertilisers can be either organic or inorganic (chemical), and come in a wide range of concentrations and proportions of nutrients. Two organic fertilisers are liquid manure (about 1.5-1.0-1.5) and fish emulsion ((Some fish emulsion may contain whale by-products.)) (about 5-1-1). Chemical fertilisers commonly may have 20-20-20 or 5-10-5, or may contain only one nutrient, such as 16-0-0.
A 10-5-5 fertiliser is 20 percent soluble nutrients and 80 percent inert ingredients. a 30-10-10 has 50 percent available nutrients and 50 percent inert ingredients. There is approximately the same amount of N in one tsp. of 30-10-10 as in three tsps. of 10-5-5.
Actually, you can almost use any fertiliser, but the nitrogen content should be proportionately high, and there should be some P and L also present. For example, a 20-20-20 would work fine, as would a 12-6-6 or a 3-4-3, but not a 2-10-10 or a 5-10-0.
How much fertiliser to use and how often to fertilise depend primarily on the fertility of the soil and the size of the container relative to the size of the plant. Small plants in large pots usually do not need to be fertilised. Even in small pots, most plants do not need to be fertilised for at least the first month.
As the plants grow, they take nutrients from the soil, and these must be replaced to maintain vigorous growth. During the vegetative stage, even plants in large pots generally require some fertilising, particularly with N.
The rate of growth of indoor plants is usually limited by the amount of light and space, once adequate nutrients are supplied. At this point, an increase in nutrients will not increase growth. Your goal is to supply the plants with their nutritional needs without overfertilising and thus toxifying the soil.
Most fertilisers are designed for home use and have instructions for fertilising houseplants. marijuana is not a houseplant, and it requires more nutrients than houseplants. The extra nutrients that it needs may be supplied by the use of large pots and a fertile soil mixture. In many cases, you will need to fertilise only in the dosages recommended on fertiliser packages for houseplants. For instance, Rapid-Gro (23-19-17) is popular among marijuana growers; use one tablespoon per gallon of water every two weeks.
A typical program for fertilising might be to fertilise during the fifth week of growth and every two weeks thereafter until flowering. Then discontinue fertilising (or give at one-half concentration) unless the plants show a definite need for nutrients. It is better to fertilise with a more diluted solution more often than to give concentrated doses at longer intervals. (For instance, if instructions call for one tablespoon of fertiliser per gallon once a month, use one-quarter tablespoon per gallon once a week.)
Make sure that a fertiliser is completely dissolved in the water before you apply it. Put the recommended amount of fertiliser in a clear glass bottle and mix with about one cup of water. Shake vigorously and then allow it to settle. If any particles of fertiliser are not dissolved, shake again before adding the rest of the water. If you have difficulty getting all the fertiliser to dissolve, first add hot top water. If the fertiliser still does not completely dissolve, you should use another fertiliser.
Never fertilise a dry soil or dry Soilless medium. If the medium is dry, first water with about one-half quart of plain water per pot. Let the pots sit for about 15 minutes so that the water is evenly dispersed in the pot. Then fertilise as usual.
It is difficult to give instruction for fertilising that will cover all garden situations. You want to supply the plant with its nutritive needs, but overfertilising con toxify the soil. Fertilising according to instructions for houseplants (both in frequency and concentration) should not toxify the soil. However, the plants may sometimes require more frequent or more concentrated fertilising. A good way to judge the plant's needs is not to fertilise one plant, double the fertiliser of another plant, and give the rest of the plants their normal dose. If the unfertilised plant grows more slowly, or shows symptoms of deficiencies, then probably all the plant are depending on soluble fertilisers and must be fertilised regularly. If the plants receiving the double dose grows faster than the other plants, increase the other plants' supply also. On the other hand, if there is little difference among the plants, then the soil is providing the plants with enough nutrients, and they either should not be fertilised or should be fertilised with a less-concentrated solution.
Because they are grown in a relatively small area, it is easy to overfertilise indoor plants. When plants are vigorous, look healthy, and are growing steadily, don't be anxious to fertilise, particularly if you have already fertilised several times with soluble fertilisers. Slow growth or symptoms of deficiencies clearly indicate the need for fertilising.

(all info is posted from my archives and documents).

LUDA.

__________________
ITS WHAT YOU KNOW AND ABOUT HOW YOU GROW





some good info from LUDACRIS, should help you out some, couldnt find the link i was lookin for though. try searching for info on the forum a little more too and you sould find all the answers you need.... and then some
 

tucknub

Member
07-29-2009, 12:20 PM

LUDACRIS
Mr.Ganja
Mr. Ganja

Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,614



permalink
Application: Fertilising
To grow to a large size, marijuana requires a steady supply of nutrients. These can be added to the soil before planting or anytime during growth. Bulk fertilisers are added while the soil is mixed. These include manures, composts, humus, and concentrated fertilisers, such as rose food. Once the plants are growing, never condition or mulch indoor soils with bulk fertilisers. they promote moulds and fungi and attract other pests to the garden. Concentrated fertilisers can damage the plants if they come in direct contact with the stem or roots.
While the plants are growing, nutrients are given in solution; they are dissolved in water, and the plants are watered as usual. Soluble fertilisers can be either organic or inorganic (chemical), and come in a wide range of concentrations and proportions of nutrients. Two organic fertilisers are liquid manure (about 1.5-1.0-1.5) and fish emulsion ((Some fish emulsion may contain whale by-products.)) (about 5-1-1). Chemical fertilisers commonly may have 20-20-20 or 5-10-5, or may contain only one nutrient, such as 16-0-0.
A 10-5-5 fertiliser is 20 percent soluble nutrients and 80 percent inert ingredients. a 30-10-10 has 50 percent available nutrients and 50 percent inert ingredients. There is approximately the same amount of N in one tsp. of 30-10-10 as in three tsps. of 10-5-5.
Actually, you can almost use any fertiliser, but the nitrogen content should be proportionately high, and there should be some P and L also present. For example, a 20-20-20 would work fine, as would a 12-6-6 or a 3-4-3, but not a 2-10-10 or a 5-10-0.
How much fertiliser to use and how often to fertilise depend primarily on the fertility of the soil and the size of the container relative to the size of the plant. Small plants in large pots usually do not need to be fertilised. Even in small pots, most plants do not need to be fertilised for at least the first month.
As the plants grow, they take nutrients from the soil, and these must be replaced to maintain vigorous growth. During the vegetative stage, even plants in large pots generally require some fertilising, particularly with N.
The rate of growth of indoor plants is usually limited by the amount of light and space, once adequate nutrients are supplied. At this point, an increase in nutrients will not increase growth. Your goal is to supply the plants with their nutritional needs without overfertilising and thus toxifying the soil.
Most fertilisers are designed for home use and have instructions for fertilising houseplants. marijuana is not a houseplant, and it requires more nutrients than houseplants. The extra nutrients that it needs may be supplied by the use of large pots and a fertile soil mixture. In many cases, you will need to fertilise only in the dosages recommended on fertiliser packages for houseplants. For instance, Rapid-Gro (23-19-17) is popular among marijuana growers; use one tablespoon per gallon of water every two weeks.
A typical program for fertilising might be to fertilise during the fifth week of growth and every two weeks thereafter until flowering. Then discontinue fertilising (or give at one-half concentration) unless the plants show a definite need for nutrients. It is better to fertilise with a more diluted solution more often than to give concentrated doses at longer intervals. (For instance, if instructions call for one tablespoon of fertiliser per gallon once a month, use one-quarter tablespoon per gallon once a week.)
Make sure that a fertiliser is completely dissolved in the water before you apply it. Put the recommended amount of fertiliser in a clear glass bottle and mix with about one cup of water. Shake vigorously and then allow it to settle. If any particles of fertiliser are not dissolved, shake again before adding the rest of the water. If you have difficulty getting all the fertiliser to dissolve, first add hot top water. If the fertiliser still does not completely dissolve, you should use another fertiliser.
Never fertilise a dry soil or dry Soilless medium. If the medium is dry, first water with about one-half quart of plain water per pot. Let the pots sit for about 15 minutes so that the water is evenly dispersed in the pot. Then fertilise as usual.
It is difficult to give instruction for fertilising that will cover all garden situations. You want to supply the plant with its nutritive needs, but overfertilising con toxify the soil. Fertilising according to instructions for houseplants (both in frequency and concentration) should not toxify the soil. However, the plants may sometimes require more frequent or more concentrated fertilising. A good way to judge the plant's needs is not to fertilise one plant, double the fertiliser of another plant, and give the rest of the plants their normal dose. If the unfertilised plant grows more slowly, or shows symptoms of deficiencies, then probably all the plant are depending on soluble fertilisers and must be fertilised regularly. If the plants receiving the double dose grows faster than the other plants, increase the other plants' supply also. On the other hand, if there is little difference among the plants, then the soil is providing the plants with enough nutrients, and they either should not be fertilised or should be fertilised with a less-concentrated solution.
Because they are grown in a relatively small area, it is easy to overfertilise indoor plants. When plants are vigorous, look healthy, and are growing steadily, don't be anxious to fertilise, particularly if you have already fertilised several times with soluble fertilisers. Slow growth or symptoms of deficiencies clearly indicate the need for fertilising.

(all info is posted from my archives and documents).

LUDA.

__________________
ITS WHAT YOU KNOW AND ABOUT HOW YOU GROW





some good info from LUDACRIS, should help you out some, couldnt find the link i was lookin for though. try searching for info on the forum a little more too and you sould find all the answers you need.... and then some
thank you so much. +rep
 

klassenkid

Well-Known Member
I bought some 30-10-10 fertilizer and it says its specifically for orchids, i only bought it for its nutrient levels for vegetative growth. Is it still a good choice? Sorry if this is high jacking but i thought it be alright cuz of staying on topic and would maybe give tucknub more answers also.
 

zorkan

Active Member
07-29-2009,
Most fertilisers are designed for home use and have instructions for fertilising houseplants. marijuana is not a houseplant, and it requires more nutrients than houseplants.
Thats why i was wondering why everyone says start with 1/4
if the manufacture of the fertilizer made it for houseplants and marijuana requires more ferts it should be safe for marijuana at full str.
 

LUDACRIS

New Member
Thats why i was wondering why everyone says start with 1/4
if the manufacture of the fertilizer made it for houseplants and marijuana requires more ferts it should be safe for marijuana at full str.
no dont at full stength. start nutes after the seedling is 2-3 weeks old at 1/4 strength and build it up over a period of weeks.

LUDACRIS.
;-)
 

mariapastor

Well-Known Member
Also looking at low number notes compared to high number ones I have a .1 .5 .25 this can also be seen as 1-5-2.5 or 10- 50 - 25 depending if you added the required amount of water it asked you to. For instance the value is dpendant of tthe amount of water required to add. Most likely on consentrated nuted they will ask u to add so much water and the value of the npk depends OT he instructions. You can see how some nutes are so much more versetile and friendly to use in both vegging and flowering. In a nutrient program you may structure and choose to use a three nutrients. Some people get 1 of eeach and make there own mix. I use a mediator wih low numbers such as the one on top with essential trace elements and a specific like a N rich like fish em. Then for flowering I contInue with my mediator alone depending on the
needs. I soil sample to findout if my plant has been using what nutes most. And add either p or k in the form of guano or sea weed. In my experience is much more
easy and fun using lo number nutes to determine the needs of ur specific strain of plant. And most likely never over feed or create lockdowns. However I do pay attention to the ph buffering depending on the source of water. If u use tap be carefull and pay attention to ph levels of water. Trace elements normally found in organic mediums may be eliminated or locked down creating disasters. If u have high ph readings make sure to add sulfer to your compost mediums or any high acid. Sometimes a dose of super thrive may fix this every so often. Don't get ccomfortable without a digital reader or testing equipment. You may get used to situations that are llikely to occur during time with exPerience take note and learn with each deatail and situation anything may happen and learn for later you may become aware of things and know how to approach problems without such equipment but that takes time practice and years of experience. Good growing.
 

imchucky666

Well-Known Member
Is it better to have higher numbers or lower for fertilizers...? (I feel like an idiot after re-reading and noticing I spelled fertilizer wrong..from now on I will use fert. lol)

Sometimes I see people using small numbers like 3-10-1 (some bat guano) and then I see some flowering of 0-54-32...

Are the numbers that are higher a lot better..or does that mean you need to use less of it?
High N with others is for veg, low N with high others is for flowering.
Too much N in flower will slow, may even temporarily stop your buds/flowers from growing. (and can burn)
 

buckaroo bonzai

Well-Known Member
I mix my own mix and my latest is 32-26-26...

anyone here use similar high numbers and get the results they were looking for?
or anyone have experiences using high number mixes that may warn a nickel like myself of potential disaster?


in the past when I have mixed my own and made high NPK numbers I experience extremely rapid growth on most of the girls--

feed back would be appreciated--

and I normally mix a 30-20-20 or somewhere around there

thks and peace
 

imchucky666

Well-Known Member
I mix my own mix and my latest is 32-26-26...

anyone here use similar high numbers and get the results they were looking for?
or anyone have experiences using high number mixes that may warn a nickel like myself of potential disaster?


in the past when I have mixed my own and made high NPK numbers I experience extremely rapid growth on most of the girls--

feed back would be appreciated--

and I normally mix a 30-20-20 or somewhere around there

thks and peace
I see nothing wrong with mixing your own formulas, but when you do, you are relying on your own skills to watch how much or how little to feed, not just a standard to start with that is printed on a label.
If you have those skills, that is fine, but for the average person who may not, or the person who just wants to 'dump a teaspoon in and fill the jug with water', and know it didn't burn last time, then no.
That method of mixing ones own nutes is not for them.
I am one of 'those' people, but I gradually increased the amounts I fed, so I knew, if I was in a hurry, I could just throw x-amount in with my water and be fine.
 

mariapastor

Well-Known Member
Less is more when it comes to a feeding program. Watch plants and give plenty of water between runs. I feed once a week low numbers. Making it less susceptible to over feed. Less is more and small numbers make the difference when feeding once a wee 5 n plus what ever that roots trinity is once a week while vegging. No nute burns or def.
 

buckaroo bonzai

Well-Known Member
I see nothing wrong with mixing your own formulas, but when you do, you are relying on your own skills to watch how much or how little to feed, not just a standard to start with that is printed on a label.
If you have those skills, that is fine, but for the average person who may not, or the person who just wants to 'dump a teaspoon in and fill the jug with water', and know it didn't burn last time, then no.
That method of mixing ones own nutes is not for them.
I am one of 'those' people, but I gradually increased the amounts I fed, so I knew, if I was in a hurry, I could just throw x-amount in with my water and be fine.
i do 'soil' mixes---to get these numbers...

i mix my own soil....don't use liquid
 
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