Driver Selection Help

BodhiKarma

Active Member
I posted this under the design and setup forum. Didn't realize this subforum was here. Have tried to delete the other to move it here but don't see how to. Don't ban me for asking the same question in two places please...


Hey guys, lighting question and hoping for a "math based" answer basically.

Some background you can skip if you want :). Have about 9 or 10 years with MH/HPS. Moved in 2012 and was limited in space and no good way to vent heat so I made the jump to LED. Tried that for about 6 years but only halfheartedly. Used the purple crap and never made anything that compared to my past results.Did a little reading and bought a cheapo COB off of Amazon that had Epistars and there was a noticeable difference between the COB and the purple crap. So that lit a bit of a fire and I've spent the last several weeks to a month reading, watching videos etc and I've landed on the idea of making my own.

My environment is 30" x 60" x 86". I'll be using the bottom 18" or so for a reservoir so really I only have about 68" vertically. My lighting goal is to have consistent coverage across the 30" x 60" and the correct amount of PPFD for room temperature ( say a range of 72 - 84 ). I don't know how to do the math. I believe I will go with Rapid LED 48 x 22 substraight. That is basically two rails. My plan is to do 4 lights per rail for a total of 8. Lights will be Cree CXB 3590's. Probably 3500K ( Happy for any input on that as well). Those rails coupled with 8 lights will allow me to have each light 7.5 inches from the wall and 15 inches center to center to a neighboring light. So I'm looking for each one to cover just a little over a square foot and still have enough photons to hit under the neighboring lights at an angle. I'm at a loss as to the wattage or milliamps I should be looking at.

I like the idea of a single controller but that isn't a requirement. Also considering the number of COB's, the proximity to neighboring COB's and reflectivity, as well as limited vertical space, should I even mess with a lens on them?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Cobs are great. We've all used them. But now days, the newer Samsung diodes are even more efficient and brighter and used on aboard, give even better light spread. I'd look into a board or strip build. You'll save quite a few inches in height too .
 

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
Your space is approx. 1/2 of what I run- a pair of rows 2' wide and 5' long. I originally configured my fixtures with 4 Vero on a 320w driver. Worked MUCH better than the blurples I had been running but it seemed that the edges along the perimeter weren't as vigorous. I added a pair of 44" Sammy double row F strips(I under drive them to just 60w/strip) as outriggers on the fixture last year. I only run both at full power during flower, so we're running about 425 watts over each 2x5 during flower. It's right at the point where it's almost too much light so you have to use some discretion to keep everything happy.
 

BodhiKarma

Active Member
Cobs are great. We've all used them. But now days, the newer Samsung diodes are even more efficient and brighter and used on aboard, give even better light spread. I'd look into a board or strip build. You'll save quite a few inches in height too .
Thanks. I don't know enough about them. Will have to do some reading. I guess that is what the HLG 550 v2 runs? The Samsung LM301B is what you are talking about?
 

BodhiKarma

Active Member
Your space is approx. 1/2 of what I run- a pair of rows 2' wide and 5' long. I originally configured my fixtures with 4 Vero on a 320w driver. Worked MUCH better than the blurples I had been running but it seemed that the edges along the perimeter weren't as vigorous. I added a pair of 44" Sammy double row F strips(I under drive them to just 60w/strip) as outriggers on the fixture last year. I only run both at full power during flower, so we're running about 425 watts over each 2x5 during flower. It's right at the point where it's almost too much light so you have to use some discretion to keep everything happy.
OK so if it is between an HLG-320 @ 1050 mA or an HLG-480 @ 1400 mA you'd say the 480? Actually probably save some energy by running 2 HLG-185 1400's wouldn't I?

According to Rapid LED's site I can only do 3 COB''s off of an HLG-240 1750 mA. According to the "COB LED Constant Current Driver Selection Tool" ( I can't paste a link yet... ) It shows the HLG-240 able to run 4 though. I had thought I may use the 240 drivers.

The part I'm at a loss at is do I need to me 1050 mA, 1400 mA, or 1750 mA. I may be asking it wrong as I know wattage works in there as well but the 1050's wouldn't be as intense or putting out as much light at the 1750's right? I don't know where to be in order to be at a good PAR / PPFD.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Thanks. I don't know enough about them. Will have to do some reading. I guess that is what the HLG 550 v2 runs? The Samsung LM301B is what you are talking about?
Yup. Lm561c is also a model before the 301 and is considerably cheaper and imo a better value as the 301's are only slightly brighter.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
OK so if it is between an HLG-320 @ 1050 mA or an HLG-480 @ 1400 mA you'd say the 480? Actually probably save some energy by running 2 HLG-185 1400's wouldn't I?

According to Rapid LED's site I can only do 3 COB''s off of an HLG-240 1750 mA. According to the "COB LED Constant Current Driver Selection Tool" ( I can't paste a link yet... ) It shows the HLG-240 able to run 4 though. I had thought I may use the 240 drivers.

The part I'm at a loss at is do I need to me 1050 mA, 1400 mA, or 1750 mA. I may be asking it wrong as I know wattage works in there as well but the 1050's wouldn't be as intense or putting out as much light at the 1750's right? I don't know where to be in order to be at a good PAR / PPFD.
I can guarantee the 1750 drives FOUR cxb3590's.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
OK so if it is between an HLG-320 @ 1050 mA or an HLG-480 @ 1400 mA you'd say the 480? Actually probably save some energy by running 2 HLG-185 1400's wouldn't I?

According to Rapid LED's site I can only do 3 COB''s off of an HLG-240 1750 mA. According to the "COB LED Constant Current Driver Selection Tool" ( I can't paste a link yet... ) It shows the HLG-240 able to run 4 though. I had thought I may use the 240 drivers.

The part I'm at a loss at is do I need to me 1050 mA, 1400 mA, or 1750 mA. I may be asking it wrong as I know wattage works in there as well but the 1050's wouldn't be as intense or putting out as much light at the 1750's right? I don't know where to be in order to be at a good PAR / PPFD.
Volts X Amps = Watts
 

BodhiKarma

Active Member
I can't post a link....But if you google these you will hit Digi-Key's site. So you are suggesting something like either of these?
3500K: SI-B8UZ91B20WW
3500K: SI-B8U521B20WW
 

BodhiKarma

Active Member
I do like the 4 foot strips considering my dimensions. Do you have a recommendation on a heat sink?

Part of what I liked about the Rapid LED setup was the uniformity of the coverage and being able to position the lights. Seems like I could do the same or better with strips but I don't know how to mount them or what to use for a substraight. I am limited in tools and being able to fabricate something.
 
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