Crunchy leaves and yellowing, help!

farmingfisherman

farmingfisherman

Well-Known Member
Discovered a few crunchy leaves that came off really easy this morning on the lowest branches of my sativa plant. I've also noticed the start of some yellowing on a few of the upper older large fan leaves on the blackberry plants. Plants are in the middle of their 6th week, 3 days into flower. Soil is Fox Farm Ocean Forest with Dr. Earth's Organic granular nutrients added. I've only added cal-mag till now watering at 1 teaspoon per gallon. I'm growing under two sf-1000 leds and one CMH 315 3100k running at 80% in a 4 x 4 tent. I've added the 315 cmh and the additional SF 1000 led in the last week so I'm wondering if what i'm seeing is a sign of to much light possibly. Light height currently is 21 inches above the canopy. I've added a week amount of liquid bloom nutrients by roots feeling maybe the plants are finally running out of food after being in veg for nearly 7 weeks. 4 plants are in 3 gallon fabric pots and 1 is in a 2 gallon. The pots are not full and I was planning and hoping to only have to add additional soil to them rather than transplanting to larger pots. Is this a good idea or should I transplant? I've attached pictures from this morning, maybe I'm just a nervous farmer but reading here and seeing how fast things can go south on people I thought I'd ask for advice from those with way more experience.. Thanks!
 

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budman111 said:
Phosphorus
Click to expand...
Thanks. Just read a simple article on how the plant eats and how much it eats and it makes sense. I've added lots of light and being in week 6 its looking likely their nutrient supply i've add to the soil has been used up. I've decided to roll the dice and up the amount of food they have been receiving and also raised the lights as well as dimmed the CMH. Didn't think about how much food they would need with the additional light and going into flower. Fingers crossed!
 
farmingfisherman said:
Thanks. Just read a simple article on how the plant eats and how much it eats and it makes sense. I've added lots of light and being in week 6 its looking likely their nutrient supply i've add to the soil has been used up. I've decided to roll the dice and up the amount of food they have been receiving and also raised the lights as well as dimmed the CMH. Didn't think about how much food they would need with the additional light and going into flower. Fingers crossed!
Click to expand...
I can't say I feel the same about the problem or the next step planned.

The leaves yellowing on the upper nodes do not usually represent a deficiency in fox farm soil.

It can be from the soil PH being off or from giving bloom food to a plant that does not yet need it.

I would feed a grow type of fertilizer not a bloom type at this stage.

I would also ask you about your water to see if it is RO you are using or is it tap because hard tap water with a lot of calcium in it and daily doses of 1 tsp per gallon with cal/mag can be a problem.

Just my 2c and note that I was called stupid today by an intellegent well known member and I'm butt hurt so take this post with a grain of salt.

Good luck! :weed:
 
Kushash said:
I can't say I feel the same about the problem or the next step planned.

The leaves yellowing on the upper nodes do not usually represent a deficiency in fox farm soil.

It can be from the soil PH being off or from giving bloom food to a plant that does not yet need it.

I would feed a grow type of fertilizer not a bloom type at this stage.

I would also ask you about your water to see if it is RO you are using or is it tap because hard tap water with a lot of calcium in it and daily doses of 1 tsp per gallon with cal/mag can be a problem.

Just my 2c and note that I was called stupid today by an intellegent well known member and I'm butt hurt so take this post with a grain of salt.

Good luck! :weed:
Click to expand...

Thanks

Quick recap.

Water is tap google says 7.5 to 8.5 Not hard at all. Has not been filtered.

Yellowing was appearing before I added bloom nutrients (added very lightly and organic) The leaves came off the bottom branches on the center plant. The yellowing pictured is near the top and only on older large fan leaves on the blackberry plants.

Cal-mag has been added at 1 teaspoon per gallon. I've been watering only when pots were light and meter indicated it was dry for what its worth.

Dr. Earth Organics says the ratio for container pots is good for 2 months assuming one is growing veggies.

Fox farm OF from what I've gathered is good for about 2 weeks of growth.

I've switched now to Roots Trinity and Budda grow for feed which is organic and been told pretty hard to OD the plants on.

Also added Big Foot mycorrhizae which is a water in formula to help make the roots a happy place.

Raised the leds and dimmed the CMH to 50%

So hoping with the added growth happening and feeling the power of a new spectrum run way to strong it turns out to be simply really hungry plants without the food they required that caused the yellowing and stress.
 
farmingfisherman said:
Thanks

Quick recap.

Water is tap google says 7.5 to 8.5 Not hard at all. Has not been filtered.

Yellowing was appearing before I added bloom nutrients (added very lightly and organic) The leaves came off the bottom branches on the center plant. The yellowing pictured is near the top and only on older large fan leaves on the blackberry plants.

Cal-mag has been added at 1 teaspoon per gallon. I've been watering only when pots were light and meter indicated it was dry for what its worth.

Dr. Earth Organics says the ratio for container pots is good for 2 months assuming one is growing veggies.

Fox farm OF from what I've gathered is good for about 2 weeks of growth.

I've switched now to Roots Trinity and Budda grow for feed which is organic and been told pretty hard to OD the plants on.

Also added Big Foot mycorrhizae which is a water in formula to help make the roots a happy place.

Raised the leds and dimmed the CMH to 50%

So hoping with the added growth happening and feeling the power of a new spectrum run way to strong it turns out to be simply really hungry plants without the food they required that caused the yellowing and stress.
Click to expand...
Everything sounds really good except the tap water part of the post.
It's great that you used google and are putting in the effort.

A good thing to learn is the PPM or E/C of your tap water.
The high ph of tap can be caused by having a lot of calcium in it.
You should pull up your water quality report if you can.
If your water has a lot of calcium using cal/mag might be the issue.

Here is a useful link on info about a TDS meter.
It is a very popular tool used by many soil and hydroponic growers and lasts a long time.

www.growweedeasy.com

PPM: What It Is and How To Track It | Grow Weed Easy

PPM is a unit of measurement for tracking how much "stuff" is in your water. This is useful for growing cannabis as well as making sure your water is safe!
www.growweedeasy.com www.growweedeasy.com
 
Kushash said:
Everything sounds really good except the tap water part of the post.
It's great that you used google and are putting in the effort.

A good thing to learn is the PPM or E/C of your tap water.
The high ph of tap can be caused by having a lot of calcium in it.
You should pull up your water quality report if you can.
If your water has a lot of calcium using cal/mag might be the issue.

Here is a useful link on info about a TDS meter.
It is a very popular tool used by many soil and hydroponic growers and lasts a long time.

www.growweedeasy.com

PPM: What It Is and How To Track It | Grow Weed Easy

PPM is a unit of measurement for tracking how much "stuff" is in your water. This is useful for growing cannabis as well as making sure your water is safe!
www.growweedeasy.com www.growweedeasy.com
Click to expand...
Thanks
 
farmingfisherman said:
Discovered a few crunchy leaves that came off really easy this morning on the lowest branches of my sativa plant. I've also noticed the start of some yellowing on a few of the upper older large fan leaves on the blackberry plants. Plants are in the middle of their 6th week, 3 days into flower. Soil is Fox Farm Ocean Forest with Dr. Earth's Organic granular nutrients added. I've only added cal-mag till now watering at 1 teaspoon per gallon. I'm growing under two sf-1000 leds and one CMH 315 3100k running at 80% in a 4 x 4 tent. I've added the 315 cmh and the additional SF 1000 led in the last week so I'm wondering if what i'm seeing is a sign of to much light possibly. Light height currently is 21 inches above the canopy. I've added a week amount of liquid bloom nutrients by roots feeling maybe the plants are finally running out of food after being in veg for nearly 7 weeks. 4 plants are in 3 gallon fabric pots and 1 is in a 2 gallon. The pots are not full and I was planning and hoping to only have to add additional soil to them rather than transplanting to larger pots. Is this a good idea or should I transplant? I've attached pictures from this morning, maybe I'm just a nervous farmer but reading here and seeing how fast things can go south on people I thought I'd ask for advice from those with way more experience.. Thanks!
Click to expand...
This looks like a lack of airflow and a Cal/Mag deficiency due to R/O or distilled water. Give me some more info. New here. But old to the craft.
 
Plenty of airflow. One intake fan, one oscillating fan and exhaust fan.. Temps are mid 70's and humidity are 50's to mid 60's. Water is tap 7.5 to 8.1 Cal-mag given at 1 teaspoon per gallon when watering. Water only when pots are dry. So far people are thinking Phosphorus is likely the issue with the lack of it causing stress to the leaves.. I've fed the plants and raised lights hoping this brings things under control. Any suggestions?
 
farmingfisherman said:
Plenty of airflow. One intake fan, one oscillating fan and exhaust fan.. Temps are mid 70's and humidity are 50's to mid 60's. Water is tap 7.5 to 8.1 Cal-mag given at 1 teaspoon per gallon when watering. Water only when pots are dry. So far people are thinking Phosphorus is likely the issue with the lack of it causing stress to the leaves.. I've fed the plants and raised lights hoping this brings things under control. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Thank you. I'm not a Phd. But you are running tap water at too high a Ph. Are you letting the water evaporate the chlorine and flouride? Is it tap or well water? I'm seeing a problem here. I'll be here for a few. Hope I can help you.
 
The wife needs my help. Be gone for a few minutes. But you need to de chlorinate your water and run 6.2 to 6.5 water after adding your nutes to about 900 PPM until your sure they are not going to claw from over feeding. Reply and I'll help you out. Just went through a similar issue.
 
I'm back. I'm also running FFOF mixed with Michigan peat, Dairy doo 101, coco- coire, lava stone, hardwood charcoal, white oak compost and perlite. I then add a beneficial fungus and bacteria blend. Along with crushed egg shells and organic fertilizers. When I figure out how to post pics here. I'll share what I'm doing. Someone will hlp me do it better. But it works really well as is.
 
MICHI-CAN said:
Are you letting the water evaporate the chlorine and flouride?
Click to expand...

You can evap off the chlorine if that is whats useds tho many tap water suppliers use chloramine now and it stays like fluoride unless reverse osmosis is used to get them out. Generally not enough of either or even chlorine to make any difference.

farmingfisherman said:
Thanks. Just read a simple article on how the plant eats and how much it eats and it makes sense. I've added lots of light and being in week 6 its looking likely their nutrient supply i've add to the soil has been used up. I've decided to roll the dice and up the amount of food they have been receiving and also raised the lights as well as dimmed the CMH. Didn't think about how much food they would need with the additional light and going into flower. Fingers crossed!
Click to expand...

I'm looking at the pH being way too high in the root zone locking out micronutrients and tossing more nutes at the plant will just make things worse. When weird stuff happens to the newer growth it's lack of micros more than any other reason other than heat issues. You should call your supplier and ask for a copy of their water analysis report. Should be free and probably emailed to you. May even be on the town/city website in their works area.

Post it up here and I'll take a look at it. No PhD either but a diploma in chem. Sometimes it may be high in some things like sodium too and that can mess shit up.

I use RO water only so I never have to worry about my water. Our tap water comes from a dugout on my property and is pH8+ and around 450ppm in summer when it's full and worse as the levels go down. The pets get half and half.

:peace:
 
I found a great spot to download FREE POT BOOKS . I downloaded a grow bible first and got lots more. Books look great and complete like the real ones I have here. No web site but just a page of links. Just right click on what you want and then "Save Link As" to download so they don't open first as many are 50+ megs. They got lots. Enjoy.

:peace:
 
I agree med. Ph lockout at the roots. I would suggest a charcoal filter as I use as a cheap alternative to R/O. My water is 10.4 out the tap at 116 PPM. Chlorine is off the charts. Still standard fluoride poisoning here. My suggestion would be a gallon flush per pot with 5.8 ph and start water and again when the plants get thirsty. And if it is tap water? Stop the cal-mag. Add a teaspoon of molasses per gallon.
 
MICHI-CAN said:
My water is 10.4 out the tap
Click to expand...

Where do you get your water from? That's way above what is legally allowed in any jurisdiction. It's actually harmful to health at that level and like someone is adding cautic soda to the water. The calcium carbonate some municipalities add to water to keep the pH above 7 couldn't get the pH that high even if it was way overdosed. I'd be checking your pH pen.

If supply water is below pH 7 cities etc add things like calcium carbonate to it to get it over 7 to protect the pipes and the biofilm that coats them. The screwup that happened in Flint was changing water to an acid one that wiped out the biofilm and let more than lead get leached from the old cast iron pipes in their system.

:peace:
 
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