Compost

Wanderer1

Active Member
My compost is what most would consider "spicy". With high N as it is tilled daily by chickens. I cut a third into soil. 2 part soil to 1 part compost. In 5 gal pot I'm 4 weeks into flower using only recharge so far. Surprised me. I would suggest you start there and see how it runs.
 

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
Absolutely not. Go with a legit soil recipe that has been used successfully by lots of people. Look up "coots mix" and find the living soil thread, it will have all of the answers.
 

Rozgreenburn

Well-Known Member
Not really, you could fortify your compost by adding in the proper amendments and cooking it for 30 days. But then it becomes a variant of super soil. So my answer would be, try building a super soil around your compost. Good luck...
 

Friendly_Grower

Well-Known Member
Hello

I'm just getting settled into a new house and I am beginning to trick out the rough grow-room that was already in the house I bought.
I have grown before in California at one time. I made a 40 cubic foot organic soil planter bed where I grew my Medical Cannabis so I consider myself a veteran on organic soil.

Compost is the final result of the work organisms and fungi. All a part of the "Soil Food Web."
You can google that or if you like here is a link to the page I am quoting: https://www.soilfoodweb.com.au/about-our-organisation/compost-food-web-information

This information applies to compost made by thermal composting, by worm-driven processes (cold-composting), or by static composting.

Generally speaking there is what is called the "Soil food web."

Generally the reasons growers use compost are:

  1. To add organisms to the soil. This is not just limited to bacteria, but includes fungi, protozoa, nematodes and often micro arthropods. If it is made correctly, compost will increase immunity to a host of diseases.
  2. To add foods to feed existing bacteria, fungi, protozoa, nematodes and micro arthropods.
  3. To add structure to the soil. Many types of compost contain physical structure components like coir (coconut fibre), clay, fibre, and chunks of wood. These impart physical structure that allows oxygen to move through the material. It is extremely important that air passageways are maintained in the compost.

My take on Organic Soil is that it is alive with organisms that work with the plant's roots to provide sugars.

The root microbiome (also called rhizosphere microbiome) is the dynamic community of microorganisms associated with plant roots. Because they are rich in a variety of carbon compounds, plant roots provide unique environments for a diverse assemblage of soil microorganisms, including bacteria, fungi and archaea.
Compost that has "finished" (see my compost thermometer picture to see an active temperature ) , is safe and natural.

Just to share what I am doing with you, I have actually had to start anew here after moving and I went to the store and bought "Potting Soil mix" and then added materials Green and Brown into the potting soil in ( see picture of compost tumbler ) my compost tumbler. So I am "cooking" the soil while also making new soil with the help of the microorganisms.
Once the temperature goes down to below "Steady" on the compost thermometer after being "ACTIVE" like it is right now I will simply sift and screen the finished compost then mix ( in my case ) vermiculite ( for better drainage ) in the finished compost / soil and transplant directly into what I have just made. Perlite is an additive to help retain water. I don't recommend sand.

Finished compost is safe and balanced because of the living microorganisms and the wonder of Nature itself.

As I say, I consider myself a veteran of organic soil making. After all the goal is a harvest of healthy and clean bud I will smoke.
In my organic mind it all starts with a living soil.


Here is what I did and you don't have to go to this much expense and trouble but I have because I really dig it. "Dig it.. Get it?" Pun intended.
If you want to be even more of a purist make your compost / soil from Greens and Browns only. I happen to have bought the soil mix so I am using it otherwise with enough time I could make it all from scratch. I do need to transplant sooner rather than later.
If you do use a mix look for a decent soil mix if you don't have soil you know and trust. I went with a potting soil mix from a store since I am unsure of the soil at my new place. Miracle Grow has pests and chemicals just saying...
The off the shelf mix was a shortcut for the source of microorganisms for me. Purists will want to start with greens and browns and a handful of healthy soil they trust.

I added these things to this compost / soil mix:
Alfalfa based Guinea Pig food pellets ( I like that they have minerals in them where as Rabbit or regular Alfalfa pellets don't ). It's a green so go slow until you know.
Pine wood shavings ( the smaller the better but avoid saw dust and ceder ). Pet bedding I think is safe since it is for animals and the company hopefully doesn't want their product killing anything. It's a brown and supplies some Iron I believe.
Organic fertilizer mix. ( I recommend GrowOrganic.com ) A simple 4-4-4 powder mix. Not a lot just some to help feed the microorganisms.
Azomite ( for trace minerals ) <--- Great Stuff. 1 pound is a lot!
Oyster shells ( again smaller is good ) for pH and calcium which I believe Buds make use of. Added not a lot but some. Composting makes it readily available.
Fresh hand harvested clean green grasses from my yard. ( No pesticides or other chemicals ) - this is considered a "Green" in composting if the grasses are still green and considered a a brown if it is dead and brown.
Also food stuffs. All the kitchen trim and foods that are not meat, oils or other stuff that will turn the process smelly and messy.
Then at great expense, because I like it a lot, fresh Ground coffee right out of the container (not coffee grounds ). Fresh coffee, like my preference of Folgers Classic Roast, is a Green where as used coffee grounds are a Brown. I added eleven and a half pounds in total. I added it in stages to get the ratio of C to N right, Also known as Carbon to Nitrogen ratio or C to N.
This is what I did and you can do and use what you like. The beauty of small batch is using exotic stuff in my opinion.

So all of this went in my tumbler which makes turning the compost pile easier but also I work the "pile" by hand to keep oxygen mixed in.
There are two types of bacteria at work in organic soil. Aerobic and Anaerobic. Aerobic is the good earthy smell and aerobic is the sewer smell.
Aerobic composting requires the introduction of oxygen to compost piles to allow aerobic microbes to thrive. ... Anaerobic composting is the method of composting without introducing oxygen, which means the breakdown of the organic materials takes much longer and produces little heat.
Well, I sure have gone on a long time but for my five plant Medical Grow it's what I like to do so yes you can plant right in compost that is made right because it is the Natural Soil Food Web that is enhanced and sped up by our skills and ability.

If you like I can add more content when the process is finished. Right now I have just gotten it all cooking (Active). I went slow and didn't add too much Nitrogen ( Greens ) too fast so it was going, just at the cooler "steady" level for a while.
If you do have too much nitrogen for your carbon ratio it can smell acrid like ammonia a little. You can add more "Browns" to that to balance it out.

With a little research, some interest and experience, hand made from scratch Organic Soil will make your garden grow wonderfully without using chemical fertilizers.
I don't know about some growers but I want my bud to be the best and the healthiest ( for inhaling smoke can get ).
Organic Bud just tastes and smells better in my opinion. Also knowing that from the start to harvest that everything has been done the best ways is peace of mind to me.

If you decide to try this go slow and wait and see. How much water, how much this and that. We can always add more Greens or Browns although with some experience it's like a recipe and you will get the hang of it quickly.

Friendly_Grower

Compost_Thermometer_RIP_Upload.jpeg.jpgCompost_Tumbler_RIP_Upload.jpeg.jpgGetting_Started_RIT_Upload.jpeg.jpg
 
Last edited:

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
Hello

I'm just getting settled into a new house and I am beginning to trick out the rough grow-room that was already in the house I bought.
I have grown before in California at one time. I made a 40 cubic foot organic soil planter bed where I grew my Medical Cannabis so I consider myself a veteran on organic soil.

Compost is the final result of the work organisms and fungi. All a part of the "Soil Food Web."
You can google that or if you like here is a link to the page I am quoting: https://www.soilfoodweb.com.au/about-our-organisation/compost-food-web-information




My take on Organic Soil is that it is alive with organisms that work with the plant's roots to provide sugars.



Compost that has "finished" (see my compost thermometer picture to see an active temperature ) , is safe and natural.

Just to share what I am doing with you, I have actually had to start anew here after moving and I went to the store and bought "Potting Soil mix" and then added materials Green and Brown into the potting soil in ( see picture of compost tumbler ) my compost tumbler. So I am "cooking" the soil while also making new soil with the help of the microorganisms.
Once the temperature goes down to below "Steady" on the compost thermometer after being "ACTIVE" like it is right now I will simply sift and screen the finished compost then mix ( in my case ) vermiculite ( for better drainage ) in the finished compost / soil and transplant directly into what I have just made. Perlite is an additive to help retain water. I don't recommend sand.

Finished compost is safe and balanced because of the living microorganisms and the wonder of Nature itself.

As I say, I consider myself a veteran of organic soil making. After all the goal is a harvest of healthy and clean bud I will smoke.
In my organic mind it all starts with a living soil.


Here is what I did and you don't have to go to this much expense and trouble but I have because I really dig it. "Dig it.. Get it?" Pun intended.
If you want to be even more of a purist make your compost / soil from Greens and Browns only. I happen to have bought the soil mix so I am using it otherwise with enough time I could make it all from scratch. I do need to transplant sooner rather than later.
If you do use a mix look for a decent soil mix if you don't have soil you know and trust. I went with a potting soil mix from a store since I am unsure of the soil at my new place. Miracle Grow has pests and chemicals just saying...
The off the shelf mix was a shortcut for the source of microorganisms for me. Purists will want to start with greens and browns and a handful of healthy soil they trust.

I added these things to this compost / soil mix:
Alfalfa based Guinea Pig food pellets ( I like that they have minerals in them where as Rabbit or regular Alfalfa pellets don't ). It's a green so go slow until you know.
Pine wood shavings ( the smaller the better but avoid saw dust and ceder ). Pet bedding I think is safe since it is for animals and the company hopefully doesn't want their product killing anything. It's a brown and supplies some Iron I believe.
Organic fertilizer mix. ( I recommend GrowOrganic.com ) A simple 4-4-4 powder mix. Not a lot just some to help feed the microorganisms.
Azomite ( for trace minerals ) <--- Great Stuff. 1 pound is a lot!
Oyster shells ( again smaller is good ) for pH and calcium which I believe Buds make use of. Added not a lot but some. Composting makes it readily available.
Fresh hand harvested clean green grasses from my yard. ( No pesticides or other chemicals ) - this is considered a "Green" in composting if the grasses are still green and considered a a brown if it is dead and brown.
Also food stuffs. All the kitchen trim and foods that are not meat, oils or other stuff that will turn the process smelly and messy.
Then at great expense, because I like it a lot, fresh Ground coffee right out of the container (not coffee grounds ). Fresh coffee, like my preference of Folgers Classic Roast, is a Green where as used coffee grounds are a Brown. I added eleven and a half pounds in total. I added it in stages to get the ratio of C to N right, Also known as Carbon to Nitrogen ratio or C to N.
This is what I did and you can do and use what you like. The beauty of small batch is using exotic stuff in my opinion.

So all of this went in my tumbler which makes turning the compost pile easier but also I work the "pile" by hand to keep oxygen mixed in.
There are two types of bacteria at work in organic soil. Aerobic and Anaerobic. Aerobic is the good earthy smell and aerobic is the sewer smell.


Well, I sure have gone on a long time but for my five plant Medical Grow it's what I like to do so yes you can plant right in compost that is made right because it is the Natural Soil Food Web that is enhanced and sped up by our skills and ability.

If you like I can add more content when the process is finished. Right now I have just gotten it all cooking (Active). I went slow and didn't add to much Nitrogen ( Greens ) too fast so it was going, just at the cooler "steady" level for a while.
If you do have too much nitrogen for your carbon ratio it can smell acrid like ammonia a little. You can add more "Browns" to that to balance it out.

With a little research, some interest and experience, hand made from scratch Organic Soil will make your garden grow wonderfully without using chemical fertilizers.
I don't know about some growers but I want my bud to be the best and the healthiest ( for inhaling smoke can get ).
Organic Bud just tastes and smells better in my opinion. Also knowing that from theView attachment 4984813View attachment 4984812View attachment 4984813View attachment 4984812 start to harvest that everything has been done the best ways is peace of mind to me.

If you decide to try this go slow and wait and see. How much water, how much this and that. We can always add more Greens or Browns although with some experience it's like a recipe and you will get the hang of it quickly.

Friendly_Grower
010.jpg
 

MICHI-CAN

Well-Known Member
That’s what I mean , instead of a top side pile … an actual below ground compost. Paper , food scraps , etc.
It is a natural worm bed. No paper here. And it is seriously 12-18" deep after turning a few times per year. It is 13 years old now. Need some aging. And all lawn, garden and food scraps go in it. No pine or citrus. Also I dump my hardwood lump ashes in it. Bio char.
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Store bought compost typically contains a lot of wood material and is more of a soil conditioner and is broken down slowly by microbes. If you are using compost you made yourself by just piling stuff up on the ground and is teaming with worms is vermicomposting and can be used alone.

I have a compost pile that I throw all plant material and food scraps that don't go into my worm bin. It's one big mass of worms eating away and turning everything into a nutrient rich pile of beautiful black gold. I have no doubt that I could grow a plant in just that and it would thrive.

Here's my pile. As you can see some volunteer tomatoes have decided to take up residence and are thriving. I just keep adding stuff and those tomatoes growing in it will eventually become part of it.

This is what I mean when I say not all compost is the same. Much of the commercial stuff is made using wood scraps and livestock waste and is nothing like this. If you have this then yes you can use it. If you're buying bags of commercial compost then no don't do it.



 
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