Coco grow - 24 hour leaf damage

Hey guys back again with some difficulty iv been having.

Set up my garden to be as simply as possible to eliminate any problems and it doesn't seem to of worked.

I have been growing mothers under T5's in coco using Plant magic coco a + b. These are the healthiest shrubs iv ever had looking amazingly green with no problems.
Iv taken cuttings and rooted them out potting them into 1.5L pots of coco. Then they go straight to flower. They have been in flower for 14 days and they have been going great a little light but growth has been brilliant. Iv been giving them Grow formula and was going to switch to flower formula tonight. After returning from work they didn't look so good but this morning they looked great.

I feed every other day with 20 - 30% run off at 6.0 Ph with E.c 0.5
RO Water - Plant Magic A + B soft water + silicon to raise PH

600W HPS in vented hood hung at highest point.
6" high powered RUCK to exhause shade and tent
5" RVK L High power for intake

Both are on controller so temps are bang on.

Lights on temps are 25*C - 28*C
Lights off temps are 21*C -22*C

Venting is on during lights on but off at lights off.

Fan to circulate the air.


Here are some pictures, if any other information is needed please ask. Iv tried keeping this so basic and starting to go mad!!









Any help would be great!

in which progression are your leaves getting yellow?

I see no brown spotting and yellowing starting at newer growth at top of plant?

possibly a iron def

Iron (Fe) Micro Nutrient and an Immobile element


Iron is an important component of the plants enzyme and is also important for the transportation of electrons while photosynthesis is happening...


Iron reacts with many of the components of nutrient solutions, which will cause a nutrient lockup to occur, If you add to much Iron without adding enough Phosphorus, you can contribute to a phosphorus deficiency , so watch out how much iron and phosphorus your nutrients have. The Leaves on the plant can turn a pale yellow along the growing shoots, while the veins remain dark green. When you have pH imbalance, it can make iron insoluble. The tissue between the veins becomes pale or white, kind of mimics the magnesium deficiency, but not yellow, iron has the white where the yellow would be on the magnesium deficiency. The deficiency starts with the lower and middle leaves, while the new leaves become completely lacking in chlorophyll, but with little or no necrotic spots. The chlorotic mottling on new leaves starts first near the bases of the leaflets, so the middle of the leaf appears to have a yellow mark. Iron is difficult for plants to absorb and moves really slowly in the plant.
Harder for outdoor plants to absorb when in hot weather. Parts affected by the Iron Deficiency are: Young leaves and Petioles.

To much Iron can cause a problem that looks like a PH imbalance, Brown spotting on the top leaves, mainly fan leaves. Can affect the whole plant. Iron Toxicity is rare for Ph below 5.5.



Problems with Iron being locked out by PH troubles
Over watering, pests nematodes, not enough drainage, like not enough perlite. High ph, Soils with low iron, High Phosphorus, Excess Zinc, manganese or copper.



Soil

Iron gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-3.5
Iron is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 4.0-6.5 (Wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to an Iron Deficiency.



Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Iron gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-3.5
Iron is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 6.0 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to an iron deficiency.



Solution to fixing a Iron deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have potassium in them will fix a Iron deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients, or it will cause nutrient burn!) Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water can work well. Other supplements that have Iron in them are: Iron chelates, Ferric oxide, Ferrous oxide, Ferrous sulfate, all of these are fast absorption. Greensand, Cottonseed Meal is slow absorption, Garden Manure, which is medium absorption. Manure is most common organic iron source to use.

...

also have you flushed your plant any to see if it would help?

could also possibly be a magnesium def,

Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element


Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production and its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive, but yet not to much to where it will cause the plant to show a toxicity.


Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.


Excessive levels of magnesium in your plants will exhibit a buildup of toxic salts that will kill the leaves and lock out other nutrients like Calcium (Ca). Mg can get locked out by having too much Calcium, Chlorine or ammonium in your soil/water.
One of the worst problems a person can have is a magnesium def caused by a ph lockout. By giving it more magnesium to cure the problem when you are thinking you are doing good, but actually you are doing more harm then good. When the plants can’t take in a nutrient because of the ph being off for that element, the plant will not absorb it but it will be in the soil… therefore causing a buildup. A buildup will be noticed by the outer parts of the plant becoming whitish and or a yellowish color. The tips and part way in on the inner leaves will die and feel like glass. Parts affected by Magnesium deficiency are: space between the veins (Interveinal) of older leaves; may begin around interior perimeter of leaf.



Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles

Light Acid Soils, soils with excessive potassium, calcium and or phosphorus


Soil

Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4
Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 . (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.



Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.7
Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.8-9.1
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.



Solution to fixing a Magnesium deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Magnesium in them will fix a Magnesium deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!)
Other nutrients that have magnesium in them are: Epsom salts, which is fast absorption. Dolomite lime and or garden lime (same thing just called different) which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Magnesia which is medium absorption. Worm Castings, which is slow absorption. Crabshell which is slow absorption. Earth Juice Mircoblast, which is fast acting. (a must buy!! Has lots of 2ndary nutrients).

Hey man cheers for dropping in!

Umm I am unsure if these are the problems, it is unlike anything iv experienced before.

The pale leaves I believe are due to the light feed iv been givin them. But I am unsure of what the damage on the leaves are? Flush? Coco? I was under the impression you didn't need to flush coco if you are watering with a 30% run off at a low Ec.

I was thinking mybe p deficiency due to flower just kicking in and I'm using grow feed not flower.

Magnesium deff is suspect as you are not using Cal/Mag or epsom salt, but Mag deff usually makes leaves look yellow from the middle of the leaf out. (alot of times mag deff plants have the appearance of looking electricuted, like they got shocked kinda with the additions to the margins being yellow)
But the light colored leaves are from a nitrogen deff, and the leaves look the way they do because of a calcium deff, but thats my 2 cents
Its not Iron tho.
Stop using RO water and start using de-chlorinated tap water. Theres lots of calcium and minerals in tap water that isnt in RO water that your plant needs.
Personally I would add a tbsp of epsom salt into a gallon of water and use a fish bubbler to bubble the water for 24 hours, then before using, add the recommended amount of fertilizer your using and a drop or two of superthrive and ill bet they will grow back to normal

I have calmag+ with added nitrogen for the chlorosis. I have been supplementing my water with this but as it happens my last feed I didn't. It is only one strain that is suffering from this and doesn't look like the average cal mag def iv had before.

Ill try flushing with a light feed with added cal mag and foliar feed them with a little to. I don't like using epsons.

Just got home from work and the problem seems to of escalated. I am seeing several deficiencies now they have progressed. The main one being Phosphorus deficiency in the lower leaves turning dark brow at the tips and margin that feel soft to touch (Some might mistake this for mold problems) There is also a slight Calcium Deficiency and nitrogen deficiency. After reading online the do's and dont's of coco i decided to go against the gain and do what felt natural. I ran a litre on Plain RO water with a PH 6.6 through each pot and tested the run off (Advised not to). This was tested and showed PH of 5.1 and EC of what i was feeding so run off was doing its job of not building up salt. It took 4 liters of RO water to get the PH up to 5.8. I will do this again tomorrow before introducing a light feed again were i will be checking my run off like i would in any other hydroponic systems. I believe this to be a lock out and hope this to fix my problem. Doesn't any check there run off in coco??

What no one grow in coco ??

No one has 60 seconds to write a comment ? (By that i dont mean copy and paste information iv read 100 times before ^^)

well some of them look to be missing nitrogen. magnesium and other trace elements are normal when vegetative growth is occuring becuase the plant needs very little of it, you can up the micro nutes for safe measure. up the nitrogen tho.

which trace element? hard to tell becase theres a lot of issues going on, leaves looking like shit, soft, bending downward, crap on the edges... could be any number of micro-nute deficiencies. get a bottle that has many/all micro nutes, and add that in, dont worry if its this 1 or that 1 element your missing, just use a bottle of varied micro nutes, and fix the issues. that + nitrogen and your good.

i use a bottle i found at the pet store for 10 bucks, made for tropical plants in a fish tank, has about 15 micro nutes in it, and it works wonders. been using this for about 3 years and LOVE IT. anytime i see any issues, i add that in, i dont pull out guides and try to narrow it down to 1 or 2 element deficiencies, chances are if your dirt is old (or in your case, working with inert materials like coco), then your low on trace elements, 1, 2 or all of them.

think of it as antibiotics. they arent made for 1 sickness, they are made for all sicknesses, you wanna drop a bomb on it, and wipe it out. same theory, get a bottle of this, and add it in.

Whatever happened? I'm having similar problems with coco, and I'm thinking it's due to a salt build up in the coco...

How did you end up solving this problem? (Or anyone else with a recommendation?)