CAP MLC-4 Lighting Controller Wiring

Just got a Cap MLC-4 Lighting controller, I know i must run 240v ballast..

Running 220 into the box off a 30amp breaker will let me run 4 1kwatt lights?

Anyone out there actually have one of these installed??

Here is an easy way to know how much you can run on a circuit. (AMPS x VOLTS) - 20% will give you the max wattage you should be running. So in your case 5760 watts. Plenty of room for 4x1000 watts.

So if I hook 110v line up to it say from the only fixture already in the room. I could pull 1760watts if its a 20amp breaker ? Can I just replace the 20amp with 30amp to gain some watts?

no the wire size determines the breaker size. swapping to a larger breaker is asking for a fire.

I plan on running 10/2 romex to the breaker box on a double pole 30amp breaker running at 240v.. Thats what it says to use

Please keep in mind that the only electrical knowledge/experience I have is based on how things work in the US.

120 volt is the standard in the US and electric companies typically deliver 120v +/- 5% to your main panel. By the time the electricity reaches the outlets in your house it will be less due to resistance, somewhere around 110v. The standard used to be 110v and you will see appliances/lights/other gadgets rated at 110v. But when trying to figure out power requirements/limits use 120v.

So on a 120v 20 amp circuit you can have 1920 watts. You would use 12 gauge wire for this. You never want to up the breaker without having the proper wire gauge so forget about replacing the 20 amp with a 30 amp breaker. That is unless the current wire for the 20 amp circuit is 10 gauge.

The wire size doesn't determine the breaker size, its the other way around. You can run 12/2 romex all day long with 15 amp breakers even know it is rated for 20 amps. But you can't run 30 amp breakers on 12/2. I used 12/2 romex on all my house lights and outlets and used mostly 15 amp breakers. Less resistance and heat is the benefit but with the price of copper now it is probably not worth it.

You are going to need 10/3 romex with a double pole 30 amp breaker for 240v operation. If it says to use 10/2 then it must be a misprint.

deew

http://www.randmsupply.com/images/link/MLC-4XInstructions.pdf

Thanks for the info it does say 10/2 however.. i already bought 10/2 and ran the wire.. what do u think

Heathro said:

deew

http://www.randmsupply.com/images/link/MLC-4XInstructions.pdf

Thanks for the info it does say 10/2 however.. i already bought 10/2 and ran the wire.. what do u think

Click to expand...

I've installed and run many of these CAP light relays... I'm using the MLC-4X in a couple spots right now.

For lights - figure 2.9 amps for 600's and 4.6 amps for 1000's - round up to 3 and 5 to make it easy - so yes 4 x 1000 will run on 20 amps - the catch is this: household circuits are only good for 80% of their rating at continuous output (as with HID lighting)... so 30 amps - 6 amps (20% of rating) = 24 amps, hence the need for a 30 amp circuit... you could hook this up to a 20 amp circuit and run only 16 amps worth of lighting (such as 2 x 600 + 2 x 1000).

I have installed a MLC-4, which is what you mentioned in the first post. Sorry for giving out bad info but I didn't realize you have the MLC-4X ,which I am not familiar with. The instructions for the MLC-4 mention using 10/3. This is what I used and was required by code in my area. I just read the instructions for the X model and you are right. 10/2 will work, you just wont have a neutral/white connected back at the main panel, it will connect to the breaker along with the black.