These lights would be used for the entire growth cycle.true which has nothing to do with our application inherently, however they are different spectrums so depending on what you are trying to do one may be preferable
90cri has more far red generally
was that a haiku?Red is better than blue.
Plants absorb both.
In order to stick like glue.
was that a haiku?
This is a good example of a vendor who knows their products.Most standard leds ie 70 CRI are deficient in red noted as R9 in the R1-R15 Colour breakdown,in order to raise R9 the phosphor mix is altered to achieve this higher R9, the penalty is your lose flux/output, its a compromise between more uniform colour R1-R15 and loss of output
Cheers
Mark
Ya but is the light safe can you link me some safety info I don't want this light to burn my house down or kill my childrenThis is a good example of a vendor who knows their products.
90 CRI isn't worth the par loss. Choose 80. 3000K also works well full cycle.Well I need to choose 80 or 90 CRI for an LED 3,500k spectrum to be built for me for veg throughout flower. All that science stuff is over my head.
FWIW I am not sure I agree with this. It's certainly an open question.90 CRI isn't worth the par loss. Choose 80. 3000K also works well full cycle.
In practice I think there is probably little difference. The grow test I know of showed even yields. I have another one in the works. On paper even after giving red an advantage the 90 CRI doesn't come out on top, 3000K 70 CRI does... but that's on paper of course.FWIW I am not sure I agree with this. It's certainly an open question.
I'm in for this info. All of it as I picked the 70 CRI based on my thoughts after some research and I just built one light with the 80 CRI 3000K and about to build another with the same COB's. They're both flowering lights but I was curious what they might do with so much red beginning to end. The veg light will be running 5000K 80 CRI.In practice I think there is probably little difference. The grow test I know of showed even yields. I have another one in the works. On paper even after giving red an advantage the 90 CRI doesn't come out on top, 3000K 70 CRI does... but that's on paper of course.
After some direct experience and working with the numbers I've started leaning towards 3000K in some flavor. I'm not exactly decided myself but once my test run has finished I think my opinion will be a bit more firm. I have noticed a consistent difference in morphology between 3000/80 and 3500/80. Hopefully those results will be replicated in the test for some show and tell. And that's what it may come down to, not yield but growth characteristics.
Absolutely, there will be a long detailed post eventually with pics from all stages and final numbers. I've invested quite a bit in making it happen and am very curious myself. Everything is tightly controlled down to the amount of water circulation through each container, driver currents equalized, etc. There will be enough clones to choose healthy samples with equal root growth and multiple plants under each light. If the 70 CRI sample performs as it did on paper then I think and hope people should take a look at that and consider whether there is bias in their current choices. If yields deviate from the expected result then things will continue to be ambiguous. Which wouldn't be a bad thing.
I'm almost certain there will be morphological differences but I've only grown under 2 of the 5 samples so that will be interesting to document. I'll look forward to seeing what you come up with as well.
Ya but is the light safe can you link me some safety info I don't want this light to burn my house down or kill my children