Can somebody please settle this difference of opinion??

elenor.rigby

elenor.rigby

Active Member
hi guys,
a simple one really.. a friend of mine is growing in soil as am I. when discussing his health issues with the girls we came to this.

i say..water then nutes then ph adjust to to 6.5
he says.. he adjusts his water to 6.8 THEN adds nutes and gives to the girls.


apart from evapourating chlorine time etc......WHO IS CORRECT???
 
gopherbuddah

gopherbuddah

Well-Known Member
When growing marijuana in soil the pH of the soil should be between 6.5 and 7.0. When growing in containers, a single pH reading for each container is recommended. When growing outdoors in a garden, it is best to take two or three pH measurements from different areas of the garden. If you have a large garden, you may have to adjust the pH in various parts of your garden to different levels. Check the pH once every one-two weeks.
Unlike hydroponics where the nutrient solution is in a single reservoir and only needs to be checked once, a soil garden will get its nutrients from the soil it is growing in. Even a small garden that contains a few plants may have soil that varies in pH from one area to another.
Most fertilizers causea pH change in the soil. Adding fertilizer to the soil almost always results in a more acidic (lower) pH. As time goes on, the amount of salts produced by the breakdown of fertilizers in the soil causes the soil to become increasingly acidic and eventually the concentration of these salts in the soil will stunt the plant and cause browning out of the foliage.
Also, as the plant gets older its roots become less effective in bringing food to the leaves. To avoid the accumulation of these salts in your soil and to ensure that your plant is getting all of the food it needs, you can begin leaf feeding your plant at the age of about 1.5 months.
Dissolve the fertilizer in water (worm castings mixed with water will work well for leaf feeding) and spray the mixture directly onto the foliage. The leaves absorb the fertilizer into their veins. If you want to continue to put fertilizer into the soil as well as leaf feeding, be sure not to overdose your plants.
 
cowboylogic

cowboylogic

Well-Known Member
Neither, when growing in soil there is no need to pH your water. No matter what pH you adjust it too it will buffer to the mediums pH within a 1/2 hr or so. The pH game in soil grows is won before even planting a bean. Dolomite lime and worm castings in the mix being your very best friends.....
 
massah

massah

Well-Known Member
if he's using proper soil, the PH of your water shouldn't matter all that much as its the PH of the soil, not the water that counts ;) Good properly buffered/limed soil maintains a good 6.8ish PH for a while, and you can throw water/nutrients at ph5-8 at it no probs. Now if hes using unlimed soil thats a different story as the PH will drift in the medium and the proper way to PH your water is after you add the nutrients and let it sit for a little bit to level out. Nutrients being added to water brings the PH down, time and heat bring the PH back up.
 
elenor.rigby

elenor.rigby

Active Member
Do you maybe reccomend a flush? And continue as i said?
gopherbuddah said:
when growing marijuana in soil the ph of the soil should be between 6.5 and 7.0. When growing in containers, a single ph reading for each container is recommended. When growing outdoors in a garden, it is best to take two or three ph measurements from different areas of the garden. If you have a large garden, you may have to adjust the ph in various parts of your garden to different levels. Check the ph once every one-two weeks.
Unlike hydroponics where the nutrient solution is in a single reservoir and only needs to be checked once, a soil garden will get its nutrients from the soil it is growing in. Even a small garden that contains a few plants may have soil that varies in ph from one area to another.
most fertilizers causea ph change in the soil. Adding fertilizer to the soil almost always results in a more acidic (lower) ph. As time goes on, the amount of salts produced by the breakdown of fertilizers in the soil causes the soil to become increasingly acidic and eventually the concentration of these salts in the soil will stunt the plant and cause browning out of the foliage.
Also, as the plant gets older its roots become less effective in bringing food to the leaves. To avoid the accumulation of these salts in your soil and to ensure that your plant is getting all of the food it needs, you can begin leaf feeding your plant at the age of about 1.5 months.
Dissolve the fertilizer in water (worm castings mixed with water will work well for leaf feeding) and spray the mixture directly onto the foliage. The leaves absorb the fertilizer into their veins. If you want to continue to put fertilizer into the soil as well as leaf feeding, be sure not to overdose your plants.
Click to expand...
 
cowboylogic

cowboylogic

Well-Known Member
elenor.rigby said:
Do you maybe reccomend a flush? And continue as i said?
Click to expand...
GBs post was just a copy/paste from many other forums. Heres a link to the google page listing them You should be able to find follow up info in onne of them... https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=When+growing+marijuana+in+soil+the+pH+of+the+soil+should+be+between+6.5+and+7.0.+When+growing+in+containers%2C+a+single+pH+reading+for+each+container+is+recommended.+When+growing+outdoors+in+a+garden%2C+it+is+best+to+take+two+or+three+pH+measurements+from+different+areas+of+the+garden.+If+you+have+a+large+garden%2C+you+may+have+to+adjust+the+pH+in+various+parts+of+your+garden+to+different+levels.+Check+the+pH+once+every+one-two+weeks.+%0AUnlike+hydroponics+where+the+nutrient+solution+is+in+a+single+reservoir+and+only+needs+to+be+checked+once%2C+a+soil+garden+will+get+its+nutrients+from+the+soil+it+is+growing+in.+Even+a+small+garden+that+contains+a+few+plants+may+have+soil+that+varies+in+pH+from+one+area+to+another.+%0AMost+fertilizers+causea+pH+change+in+the+soil.+Adding+fertilizer+to+the+soil+almost+always+results+in+a+more+acidic+(lower)+pH.+As+time+goes+on%2C+the+amount+of+salts+produced+by+the+breakdown+of+fertilizers+in+the+soil+causes+the+soil+to+become+increasingly+acidic+and+eventually+the+concentration+of+these+salts+in+the+soil+will+stunt+the+plant+and+cause+browning+out+of+the+foliage.+%0AAlso%2C+as+the+plant+gets+older+its+roots+become+less+effective+in+bringing+food+to+the+leaves.+To+avoid+the+accumulation+of+these+salts+in+your+soil+and+to+ensure+that+your+plant+is+getting+all+of+the+food+it+needs%2C+you+can+begin+leaf+feeding+your+plant+at+the+age+of+about+1.5+months.
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
cowboylogic said:
Neither, when growing in soil there is no need to pH your water. No matter what pH you adjust it too it will buffer to the mediums pH within a 1/2 hr or so. The pH game in soil grows is won before even planting a bean. Dolomite lime and worm castings in the mix being your very best friends.....
Click to expand...
Pretty much it in a nutshell.

Lime is the cheapest and simplest problem preventer there is, period. Of course, if it was widely mentioned it would kill a lot of sales to *fix* problems that a few pennies of lime would have prevented in the first place. Not much profit in a $5/40lb bag of lime that you only need a few handfuls of, rather than pH meters, pH+-, cal/mag and so on.

EWC are great, I have 2 bins of worms going.

Wet
 
cowboylogic

cowboylogic

Well-Known Member
The runoff tea alone from vermicomposting is worth its weight in gold...medium pH high or low it will get it headed in the right direction(near neutral)the very first use. A week or two of use and your medium is back in the game.
 
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