BROWN PATCHES ON LEAVES??

CARmick93

CARmick93

Active Member
I’ve noticed over the past week brown spots and the leaves yellowing And turning crispy on one of my auto flower plants? I’m not sure what is causing it as it is only happening on one plant.

I’m growing them in soil under led lights and making sure the water ph is 6.5 when watering. I tried to flush it with water but it’s had no effect.

can anyone shed any light on what could be causing this??

thanks
 

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samayabolshayapustota

samayabolshayapustota

Member
the same thing here on one of my plants ... I think it must be a phosphorus deficiency, but after "flushing" I got 1200 ppm from my pots ... so I'm a little confused
:lol:
 
CARmick93

CARmick93

Active Member
Merlin1147 said:
What soil ands what are you feeding?
Click to expand...
Soil is biobizz lightmix
The nutes I am using are biobizz bloom, top max and alg a mic. Liquid seaweed, cal mag and terpinator terpene booster.

I am using this with all my plants tho and this is the only one that’s turned out like this?
 
Kassiopeija

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
Merlin1147 said:
these are from seed? Genetic diversity. Looks like Ca lock out from high K levels
Click to expand...
it looks like Ca-def (lockout) but I see nothing in that mix that has high K

CARmick93 said:
Yeah they’re from seed they’re critical mass autos, so how do I lower the K levels?
Click to expand...
you are using too many stimulants, Topmax alone does suffice for a flower booster. Usually it's best to stick to one line and not mix different brands indiscriminately.
Also, BB Grow is absolutely essential for BB grows, Grow + Bloom alone does work flawlessly.
Also, stimulants need something which they can mobilize, yet you've picked their Lightmix, which is deplete after 2 weeks. Allmix is much better as it contains Pre-Mix, which is heavily loaded in ammonia and various other additives. Pre-Mix is sort of a hard-fertilizer concentrate.
Algamic also contains seaweed stuff, you are overloading the medium with stuff. These stimulants usually shall onyl assist what a root is naturally doing, but if you saturate them in it, the whole system goes out-of-whack.
 
Kassiopeija

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
CARmick93 said:
water ph is 6.5 when watering
Click to expand...
and this is not something you want to do with BioBizz anyway, as the ingredients will further add to the acidification of the medium (in conjunction of the H+ release of the roots). BB needs hardwater, either neutral or slightly alkaline, if it's hardwater with alot of chalk in it you can pH it down to neutral, otherwise just leave it without ph'ing. Tapwater of EC 0.4 is perfect, while 0.8 is stil acceptable, if it's around pH 8.0. All the Bb nutes (except pH+) are acidic and will take the pH down to 6.5-7 - which is okay. You don'T want to have your medium too acidic or there will be Ca locks (and others). So just feed a bit more alkaline next time and use BB Grow. (Grow is the bottle which keeps the microbes happy, as it deriven from sugar beet)
 
CARmick93

CARmick93

Active Member
Kassiopeija said:
it looks like Ca-def (lockout) but I see nothing in that mix that has high K


you are using too many stimulants, Topmax alone does suffice for a flower booster. Usually it's best to stick to one line and not mix different brands indiscriminately.
Also, BB Grow is absolutely essential for BB grows, Grow + Bloom alone does work flawlessly.
Also, stimulants need something which they can mobilize, yet you've picked their Lightmix, which is deplete after 2 weeks. Allmix is much better as it contains Pre-Mix, which is heavily loaded in ammonia and various other additives. Pre-Mix is sort of a hard-fertilizer concentrate.
Algamic also contains seaweed stuff, you are overloading the medium with stuff. These stimulants usually shall onyl assist what a root is naturally doing, but if you saturate them in it, the whole system goes out-of-whack.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks for the help mate I’m new to all this so still a Learning curve for me. So how would overcome the ca lockout problem?
Do you think I should stop using as many stimulants for the rest of the growth?
the reason I didn’t use the all mix soil is I was growing them from seed in rock wool and then transplanting them straight to there final pots and I read that the seedlings can get nute burn Using that soil.
 
Kassiopeija

Kassiopeija

Well-Known Member
CARmick93 said:
Ok thanks for the help mate I’m new to all this so still a Learning curve for me. So how would overcome the ca lockout problem?
Do you think I should stop using as many stimulants for the rest of the growth?
the reason I didn’t use the all mix soil is I was growing them from seed in rock wool and then transplanting them straight to there final pots and I read that the seedlings can get nute burn Using that soil.
Click to expand...
Allmix is sharp, that's true, it's EC is about 2.2, even though it's organic. You can start with it, but then only feed water + whatever you need for CalMag. How much CalMag you give is dependant on your water quality. If you use RO - you need their CalMag (organic) and follow their instructions, or take another mineralic CalMag, and up the EC of your RO water to 0.2-0.3 mS.
If you have light-to medium tapwater-hardness you can give Algamic 1ml/l with each watering. Algamic has NPK 0.1-0.1-0.1 - but it contains some micros and else.
If you have hard to very hard water then you can use their pH- a bit on it - in order to make the "chalk" plant-ready.
For a long veg you need Fishmix, which is also very good to establish the microlife in your soil.
If you start out with Lightmix (which is high in N, but has only very little P & K) you can give BB Grow in veg, instead of Fishmix.
And in flower, you give both Grow & Bloom.
These 3 - Fish, Grow & Bloom do contain NPK values and are the real fertilizers. The rest are basically stimulants, which aren't essential.
Their new plan which I did attach, show the maximum dosages one can give - however, you can be fine with just half strength. Allmix in a big pot can last about 6 weeks, so one doesn't have to fertilize that much. It's an easy solution.
BTW you can mix Lightmix & Allmix together, to make it less sharp for small plants, clones and such...

As for your current suffering plant, I'd just stop the Topmax and use Grow instead - 2ml/l Grow for starters, and 1-2ml/l Bloom. Try 2ml/l Algamic in RO water for a leaf application (only the fanleaves) before lights out, every 2nd day. The leaves won't heal back, but you may be able to stop it advancing.

Hope this helps you further.
 

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CARmick93

CARmick93

Active Member
Kassiopeija said:
Allmix is sharp, that's true, it's EC is about 2.2, even though it's organic. You can start with it, but then only feed water + whatever you need for CalMag. How much CalMag you give is dependant on your water quality. If you use RO - you need their CalMag (organic) and follow their instructions, or take another mineralic CalMag, and up the EC of your RO water to 0.2-0.3 mS.
If you have light-to medium tapwater-hardness you can give Algamic 1ml/l with each watering. Algamic has NPK 0.1-0.1-0.1 - but it contains some micros and else.
If you have hard to very hard water then you can use their pH- a bit on it - in order to make the "chalk" plant-ready.
For a long veg you need Fishmix, which is also very good to establish the microlife in your soil.
If you start out with Lightmix (which is high in N, but has only very little P & K) you can give BB Grow in veg, instead of Fishmix.
And in flower, you give both Grow & Bloom.
These 3 - Fish, Grow & Bloom do contain NPK values and are the real fertilizers. The rest are basically stimulants, which aren't essential.
Their new plan which I did attach, show the maximum dosages one can give - however, you can be fine with just half strength. Allmix in a big pot can last about 6 weeks, so one doesn't have to fertilize that much. It's an easy solution.
BTW you can mix Lightmix & Allmix together, to make it less sharp for small plants, clones and such...

As for your current suffering plant, I'd just stop the Topmax and use Grow instead - 2ml/l Grow for starters, and 1-2ml/l Bloom. Try 2ml/l Algamic in RO water for a leaf application (only the fanleaves) before lights out, every 2nd day. The leaves won't heal back, but you may be able to stop it advancing.

Hope this helps you further.
Click to expand...
Ok mate thanks a lot for that that’s a massive help, I’ll give it a go.
 
Negrodamus

Negrodamus

Well-Known Member
CARmick93 said:
I’ve noticed over the past week brown spots and the leaves yellowing And turning crispy on one of my auto flower plants? I’m not sure what is causing it as it is only happening on one plant.

I’m growing them in soil under led lights and making sure the water ph is 6.5 when watering. I tried to flush it with water but it’s had no effect.

can anyone shed any light on what could be causing this??

thanks
Click to expand...
It'll be fine but FUCK ocean forest. I'm currently 23 days into my second grow with it, and my runoff is already ph5.1 even though I've only been watering with ph8 tap water that sits out for 48hrs. Here's what you have to do... Top dress soil with 1/2 cup of gardening lime. Add calmag for EVERY watering, DO NOT use fox farm nutes before 30 days old, if/when you do use nutes, use at 1/4 strength and monitor pH runoff vigorously. Also (this why my soil is fucked up rn), you can't let the runoff sit in the catch pan.
 
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