Beyond frustrated.

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bigvajoo

Active Member
The peeling paing on my rez looks like shit but it'll work for now. Small/micro DWC. Ph 5.5-6.0. Running AN 3part at 100ppm in RO water. 18-6 lighting. Rez tems 65F.

I have no idea whats wrong. Had this same issue with my last grow(same strain). Spent the entire grow trying to figure out the cause and was unsuccessful. New leaves grow in and after a few days, they start to develop yellow/brown spots near the tips. The eventually spots work their way about halfway up the leave then stop. The leave tip dries up and dies. Thought it was nute burn, but 100 ppm seems awful low to me.

Last grow I tried adding calmag, raising and lowering the nute ppm, sterile rez, hydroguard, more light, less light....nothing worked. I struggeled the entire grow; all the way through flower. I really dont want to stuggle through with this grow too. Any advice?
 

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Tolerance Break

Tolerance Break

Well-Known Member
bigvajoo said:
The peeling paing on my rez looks like shit but it'll work for now. Small/micro DWC. Ph 5.5-6.0. Running AN 3part at 100ppm in RO water. 18-6 lighting. Rez tems 65F.

I have no idea whats wrong. Had this same issue with my last grow(same strain). Spent the entire grow trying to figure out the cause and was unsuccessful. New leaves grow in and after a few days, they start to develop yellow/brown spots near the tips. The eventually spots work their way about halfway up the leave then stop. The leave tip dries up and dies. Thought it was nute burn, but 100 ppm seems awful low to me.

Last grow I tried adding calmag, raising and lowering the nute ppm, sterile rez, hydroguard, more light, less light....nothing worked. I struggeled the entire grow; all the way through flower. I really dont want to stuggle through with this grow too. Any advice?
Click to expand...
FWIW Sterile is easier for a beginner in hydro than bennies. Much less to worry about and clean when things go wrong.

This is going to be a process of trial and error. It will be frustrating, but youll come out able to help the next guy. How long were you giving the plant to recover before each of those fixes? What did the roots look like?
 
myke

myke

Well-Known Member
As with all deficiencys you simply just run down the list. How’s your water. How’s your ph. how’s your temp.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
bigvajoo said:
No. I empty and fill through a hose fitting.
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So NO paint inside touching the water then? Be sure.

100ppm = bullshit. First, stop using ppm because there are many ppm scales out there and it leads to confusion. Use EC instead; it's a direct measurement and it's universal.

Second, assuming you're on the "most common" ppm scale of EC x 500, that's 0.2 EC and most people's water is harder than that coming out of the tap. Your plant is starving for nutes.

Give it a balanced diet of nutrients and get your EC up to 1.8 (900ppm on the EC x 500 scale). pH should be 5.7-6.2. Water temperature should be 65-72, never over 75 for more than a few hours at a time.

Air temperature should be upper 70s, RH around 50%.

Those leaf spots are a sign your plant is starving. They will not go away. Look at new growth for an indicator of how the plant likes your recent changes.

That will get you going!
 
Tolerance Break

Tolerance Break

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
ive it a balanced diet of nutrients and get your EC up to 1.8 (900ppm on the EC x 500 scale). pH should be 5.7-6.2. Water temperature should be 65-72, never over 75 for more than a few hours at a time.


That will get you going!
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Take your time getting there, and if you start to see burning, turn it back just a notch.
 
B

bigvajoo

Active Member
Tolerance Break said:
FWIW Sterile is easier for a beginner in hydro than bennies. Much less to worry about and clean when things go wrong.

This is going to be a process of trial and error. It will be frustrating, but youll come out able to help the next guy. How long were you giving the plant to recover before each of those fixes? What did the roots look like?
Click to expand...
Usually waited about a week or so...enough time for the next set of leaves to grow in and see that my changes made no difference. Roots were white in sterile(bleach), slight staining from nutes with hydroguard. Never any slime or funky smell.

I should note that, aside from my 3part nutes and ph up/down, there is nothing else in the water...no bleach, no bennies.
 
Tolerance Break

Tolerance Break

Well-Known Member
bigvajoo said:
Usually waited about a week or so...enough time for the next set of leaves to grow in and see that my changes made no difference. Roots were white in sterile(bleach), slight staining from nutes with hydroguard. Never any slime or funky smell.

I should note that, aside from my 3part nutes and ph up/down, there is nothing else in the water...no bleach, no bennies.
Click to expand...
I would personally add some pool shock for peace of mind at .01 grams per gallon, but it sounds like @ttystikk is on the money with your plant starving.
 
B

bigvajoo

Active Member
ttystikk said:
So NO paint inside touching the water then? Be sure.

100ppm = bullshit. First, stop using ppm because there are many ppm scales out there and it leads to confusion. Use EC instead; it's a direct measurement and it's universal.

Second, assuming you're on the "most common" ppm scale of EC x 500, that's 0.2 EC and most people's water is harder than that coming out of the tap. Your plant is starving for nutes.

Give it a balanced diet of nutrients and get your EC up to 1.8 (900ppm on the EC x 500 scale). pH should be 5.7-6.2. Water temperature should be 65-72, never over 75 for more than a few hours at a time.

Air temperature should be upper 70s, RH around 50%.

Those leaf spots are a sign your plant is starving. They will not go away. Look at new growth for an indicator of how the plant likes your recent changes.

That will get you going!
Click to expand...
Appreciate the reply. My temps aren't a problem. Rh is a little low(40%), but am installing a new humidstat this weekend so that shouls be resolved in a few days.

Going to start raising nute concentration and see what happens.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
bigvajoo said:
Usually waited about a week or so...enough time for the next set of leaves to grow in and see that my changes made no difference. Roots were white in sterile(bleach), slight staining from nutes with hydroguard. Never any slime or funky smell.

I should note that, aside from my 3part nutes and ph up/down, there is nothing else in the water...no bleach, no bennies.
Click to expand...
Adding bleach AND hydroguard is a waste of money; the bleach kills the beneficial microbes in the hydroguard. If your temps are where I suggested, you won't need either one anyway.
 
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
bigvajoo said:
The peeling paing on my rez looks like shit but it'll work for now. Small/micro DWC. Ph 5.5-6.0. Running AN 3part at 100ppm in RO water. 18-6 lighting. Rez tems 65F.

I have no idea whats wrong. Had this same issue with my last grow(same strain). Spent the entire grow trying to figure out the cause and was unsuccessful. New leaves grow in and after a few days, they start to develop yellow/brown spots near the tips. The eventually spots work their way about halfway up the leave then stop. The leave tip dries up and dies. Thought it was nute burn, but 100 ppm seems awful low to me.

Last grow I tried adding calmag, raising and lowering the nute ppm, sterile rez, hydroguard, more light, less light....nothing worked. I struggeled the entire grow; all the way through flower. I really dont want to stuggle through with this grow too. Any advice?
Click to expand...
Yes. Switch to Pro Mix. Or even Fox Farms overpriced gear.
 
B

bigvajoo

Active Member
xtsho said:
Ditch the DWC and grow in coco, peat, or soil.
Click to expand...
All I know is hydro. Have never done a soil grow. Used to grow ebb and flow on a much larger scale. My current grow is in a micro stealth cabinet, and a small dwc was the only hydro system that would fit/work...but obviously this small system is harder to get dialed in compared to my old E/F systems.

I've considered ditching the hydro and giving soil a try, but not sure where to start.
 
xtsho

xtsho

Well-Known Member
bigvajoo said:
All I know is hydro. Have never done a soil grow. Used to grow ebb and flow on a much larger scale. My current grow is in a micro stealth cabinet, and a small dwc was the only hydro system that would fit/work...but obviously this small system is harder to get dialed in compared to my old E/F systems.

I've considered ditching the hydro and giving soil a try, but not sure where to start.
Click to expand...
Get a decent bag of soil, plant seed, grow plant. It's pretty easy.

I did hydro for years. I switched over to coco. I doubt I'll ever do traditional hydro again. You might want to give coco a try. It's pretty close to hydro.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
xtsho said:
Get a decent bag of soil, plant seed, grow plant. It's pretty easy.

I did hydro for years. I switched over to coco. I doubt I'll ever do traditional hydro again. You might want to give coco a try. It's pretty close to hydro.
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A definition:

Hydroponics is when the nutrients are dissolved in water and then given to the plants. It's not about the substrate. Growing in coco is still hydroponics because there are no available nutrients in it.

Coco can be easier than expanded clay pellets, especially when dealing with small and young plants.
 
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