auto flowering
- Thread starter dvng420
- Start date
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
I advise forgetting autos totally.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Auto tip :
Since most will finish within 90 days or so , you can run a simple ammended soil grow all the way to harvest without unnecessary feed requirements .
Example :
Pot size 1/3/5
FFOF soil
Perlite
Water ( tap ) PH to 6.3 - 6.5
Any light system
Light schedule : 18/6 or 20/4
Mix perlite throughout soil mix going into container or grow bag. Approximately about 20% more.
Fill container halfway - dampen slightly . Fill remainder to top . Dampen slightly.
Fill container up to 1” or so from top.
Poke hole in center 1/8” - 1/4” for seed . Cover seed.
Once germed .... just mist seedling slightly. Soil in container will heat slightly from microbial activity and slight dampness. It will not need water for awhile .
Early taproot will shoot to bottom and throw roots laterally ( so no early transplant needed ).
Autos typically hate over handling or stress. They just want to sprout and grow.
However you can do “ starts in a solo “ or smaller container but easier to just let them become
accustomed / acclimated to FINAL CONTAINER USED.
Good ammended soil like FFOF is already nute charged right out of bag.
So much so , you can steep a bag of it for teas and drenching.
It will carry a plant FOR WEEKS ON WATER ALONE.
Around week 5 of growth ( from seed ) .... sexing of plant will show ( pistils )
Some autos will show early. Watering should only be done as plant goes dry and feels light.
******* Most growers SCREW their autos by overfeeding and overwatering. *******
Autos have a limited veg stage ( this is where the rootmass is building ) and setting up structure.
Fucking with them during this stage .... will affect the later stages. You can do simple training during this time like LST to help shape her out. Advanced training can be done earlier by carefully bending plant over and securing to pot to allow plants sides / mids to grow vertically ( like a bonsai ).
Transition / preflower
This is where plant begins changing to flower stage. Plant will branch and stretch .
After a bit it will begin to slow. You can RECHARGE your soil by simply TOP DRESSING with more FFOF and watering in. I usually do again around week 5/6ish for mid flower stage.
The plant will easily feed from it since it is the same available Nutes it has always used.
Ph is important to keep in range of medium ( 6.3 - 6.5 ) ..No RO , NO distilled or other shit.
The “ only “ other addition would be calmag ( depending on light used ) .... led grows sometimes need a slight bump .
When running into late flower weeks , just go back to water only. NO FLUSHING NEEDED.
Medium will hold enough to feed plant as needed and you are NOT OVERFEEDING anything.
Auto breeders love to claim harvest windows ( weeks to finish ) but they always off.
You will find running auto past estimates actually produces better product. Forget that 8 week bullshit.
Once plant stops stretch is when it is in ACTUAL FLOWER. “ Not “ when it begins o show pistils. THats why you cannot count from pistil growth as flower. When plant slows branch growth , it is concentrating on building the bud tops.
Just remember.....
They are done when they are done.
Hope this helps.
Since most will finish within 90 days or so , you can run a simple ammended soil grow all the way to harvest without unnecessary feed requirements .
Example :
Pot size 1/3/5
FFOF soil
Perlite
Water ( tap ) PH to 6.3 - 6.5
Any light system
Light schedule : 18/6 or 20/4
Mix perlite throughout soil mix going into container or grow bag. Approximately about 20% more.
Fill container halfway - dampen slightly . Fill remainder to top . Dampen slightly.
Fill container up to 1” or so from top.
Poke hole in center 1/8” - 1/4” for seed . Cover seed.
Once germed .... just mist seedling slightly. Soil in container will heat slightly from microbial activity and slight dampness. It will not need water for awhile .
Early taproot will shoot to bottom and throw roots laterally ( so no early transplant needed ).
Autos typically hate over handling or stress. They just want to sprout and grow.
However you can do “ starts in a solo “ or smaller container but easier to just let them become
accustomed / acclimated to FINAL CONTAINER USED.
Good ammended soil like FFOF is already nute charged right out of bag.
So much so , you can steep a bag of it for teas and drenching.
It will carry a plant FOR WEEKS ON WATER ALONE.
Around week 5 of growth ( from seed ) .... sexing of plant will show ( pistils )
Some autos will show early. Watering should only be done as plant goes dry and feels light.
******* Most growers SCREW their autos by overfeeding and overwatering. *******
Autos have a limited veg stage ( this is where the rootmass is building ) and setting up structure.
Fucking with them during this stage .... will affect the later stages. You can do simple training during this time like LST to help shape her out. Advanced training can be done earlier by carefully bending plant over and securing to pot to allow plants sides / mids to grow vertically ( like a bonsai ).
Transition / preflower
This is where plant begins changing to flower stage. Plant will branch and stretch .
After a bit it will begin to slow. You can RECHARGE your soil by simply TOP DRESSING with more FFOF and watering in. I usually do again around week 5/6ish for mid flower stage.
The plant will easily feed from it since it is the same available Nutes it has always used.
Ph is important to keep in range of medium ( 6.3 - 6.5 ) ..No RO , NO distilled or other shit.
The “ only “ other addition would be calmag ( depending on light used ) .... led grows sometimes need a slight bump .
When running into late flower weeks , just go back to water only. NO FLUSHING NEEDED.
Medium will hold enough to feed plant as needed and you are NOT OVERFEEDING anything.
Auto breeders love to claim harvest windows ( weeks to finish ) but they always off.
You will find running auto past estimates actually produces better product. Forget that 8 week bullshit.
Once plant stops stretch is when it is in ACTUAL FLOWER. “ Not “ when it begins o show pistils. THats why you cannot count from pistil growth as flower. When plant slows branch growth , it is concentrating on building the bud tops.
Just remember.....
They are done when they are done.
Hope this helps.