Agnetix water cooled 1250 watt LEDs

Bicoastal858

Bicoastal858

Member
Anyone have a good experience with Agnetix and their water cooled lights? A close buddy is struggling non-stop with foxtailing and all the while their rep for the last year has been telling them info that's proven to be wrong time and time again. At the moment they're only running at 20% light intensity in week 4 of flower. They've done everything the rep said and fucked 3 crops then brought in outside consultant but all he's been able to advise is to lower intensity. I'm thinking VPD is way off as plants aren't nutrient deficient but just scrawny. It's pathetic theyre only pulling one a light out of 120 lights!!!!!!! All feedback is welcome!
 
N

nxsov180db

Well-Known Member
Foxtailing is light, heat, nutes, genetics. So you’ve told us is probably can’t be light since he’s at 20%, so tell us about everything else..
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Not much info to go on here, spectrum is pretty standard looking. Are you growing in a tent? Those lights look like the need very high hanging height, more for green houses if understand correctly its 1200w from a single bar? Thats going to do a number on any tent grow since it needs great hanging height. What are temps/rh/intensity at cannopy?
 
Bicoastal858

Bicoastal858

Member
They're not foxtailing at 20% coming together nice but not the yield. Right now the room is at 75° and 60% humidity. There's 30 flowering lights in each room. I checked fan leaf and media temps and they're varying temps below ambient room about 3-5°. One room has only 8' ceilings but the others have mounted around 12'. I'll take a couple pictures when I swing by next and circle back. I'm thinking the VPD could be off and they're running too cold right now. Considering the Agnetix LEDs are water cooled I know the lights aren't creating heat and the canopy is always at least 3' below the lights. Running CO2 at 1350ppm. I'm forgetting the PAR at the 20% and will get back on that as well. They've ran a bunch of different genetics and seem to always run into same problem. Plants seem super healthy too no deficiencies or purple stems from my last walk thru. Theyve been consistent getting solid quality with super boof but not so much with all these other genetics. They're cutting down a room right now and are letting me get in there and let me work my magic. Of course it's the room with the 8' ceiling but I'm gonna drop the rolling benches to the floor and feed run to waste. Fortunately got floor drains so will be easy adjustment. I'm also going to turn off a couple lights and put up some other LEDs we got sitting around so we can get side by side data. I'm genuinely perplexed it's been multiple cycles and they have been adjusting but I have a theory that the VPD with Agnetix is going to run differently than most or all other LEDs. Any info on Agnetix and how they're finding success without foxtailing and yielding 2.5+ per I am extremely grateful for all input.
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Bicoastal858 said:
They're not foxtailing at 20% coming together nice but not the yield. Right now the room is at 75° and 60% humidity. There's 30 flowering lights in each room. I checked fan leaf and media temps and they're varying temps below ambient room about 3-5°. One room has only 8' ceilings but the others have mounted around 12'. I'll take a couple pictures when I swing by next and circle back. I'm thinking the VPD could be off and they're running too cold right now. Considering the Agnetix LEDs are water cooled I know the lights aren't creating heat and the canopy is always at least 3' below the lights. Running CO2 at 1350ppm. I'm forgetting the PAR at the 20% and will get back on that as well. They've ran a bunch of different genetics and seem to always run into same problem. Plants seem super healthy too no deficiencies or purple stems from my last walk thru. Theyve been consistent getting solid quality with super boof but not so much with all these other genetics. They're cutting down a room right now and are letting me get in there and let me work my magic. Of course it's the room with the 8' ceiling but I'm gonna drop the rolling benches to the floor and feed run to waste. Fortunately got floor drains so will be easy adjustment. I'm also going to turn off a couple lights and put up some other LEDs we got sitting around so we can get side by side data. I'm genuinely perplexed it's been multiple cycles and they have been adjusting but I have a theory that the VPD with Agnetix is going to run differently than most or all other LEDs. Any info on Agnetix and how they're finding success without foxtailing and yielding 2.5+ per I am extremely grateful for all input.
Click to expand...
When it comes to vpd your not after a "correct value" youre after healthy transpiration, visible by "leaf boners" : leaves not being saggy, but properly stretched out. Adjust environment towards better transpiration but really watch the plants for reactions. When you see them happy youre at the right levels. It becomes easier to help with pics. Remember high co2 is usually recommended with higher temps than usual and 75F is already on the low side. And remember aswell that co2 closes the stomata, its antitranspiry so to say. Im my opinion try to raise temps to +80F for most of the cycle, except the last 2 weeks. If using tanks for co2 then try burners, it will raise temps and co2 at the same time but remember youll need a little bit of air in as soon as your burning gas or youll risk carbon monoxide. Best of luck
 
Bicoastal858

Bicoastal858

Member
Rocket Soul said:
When it comes to vpd your not after a "correct value" youre after healthy transpiration, visible by "leaf boners" : leaves not being saggy, but properly stretched out. Adjust environment towards better transpiration but really watch the plants for reactions. When you see them happy youre at the right levels. It becomes easier to help with pics. Remember high co2 is usually recommended with higher temps than usual and 75F is already on the low side. And remember aswell that co2 closes the stomata, its antitranspiry so to say. Im my opinion try to raise temps to +80F for most of the cycle, except the last 2 weeks. If using tanks for co2 then try burners, it will raise temps and co2 at the same time but remember youll need a little bit of air in as soon as your burning gas or youll risk carbon monoxide. Best of luck
Click to expand...
 
Bicoastal858

Bicoastal858

Member
Rocket Soul said:
When it comes to vpd your not after a "correct value" youre after healthy transpiration, visible by "leaf boners" : leaves not being saggy, but properly stretched out. Adjust environment towards better transpiration but really watch the plants for reactions. When you see them happy youre at the right levels. It becomes easier to help with pics. Remember high co2 is usually recommended with higher temps than usual and 75F is already on the low side. And remember aswell that co2 closes the stomata, its antitranspiry so to say. Im my opinion try to raise temps to +80F for most of the cycle, except the last 2 weeks. If using tanks for co2 then try burners, it will raise temps and co2 at the same time but remember youll need a little bit of air in as soon as your burning gas or youll risk carbon monoxide. Best of luck
Click to expand...
Rocket Soul said:
When it comes to vpd your not after a "correct value" youre after healthy transpiration, visible by "leaf boners" : leaves not being saggy, but properly stretched out. Adjust environment towards better transpiration but really watch the plants for reactions. When you see them happy youre at the right levels. It becomes easier to help with pics. Remember high co2 is usually recommended with higher temps than usual and 75F is already on the low side. And remember aswell that co2 closes the stomata, its antitranspiry so to say. Im my opinion try to raise temps to +80F for most of the cycle, except the last 2 weeks. If using tanks for co2 then try burners, it will raise temps and co2 at the same time but remember youll need a little bit of air in as soon as your burning gas or youll risk carbon monoxide. Best of luck
Click to expand...
Yeah I was thinking the same. Was thinking 82-85 and lower w humidity 2-3 weeks out. I noticed too that the other end of the room from the in & out of the AC unit is reading colder too so there's gotta be some sort of deadzone w airflow even tho there's so many fans. Thinking about adding a room length duct with different dampers I can set for different psi so I'm making sure the other end is getting sufficient air so hopefully that will equalize the temps all over. As always all input is appreciated
 
Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Bicoastal858 said:
Yeah I was thinking the same. Was thinking 82-85 and lower w humidity 2-3 weeks out. I noticed too that the other end of the room from the in & out of the AC unit is reading colder too so there's gotta be some sort of deadzone w airflow even tho there's so many fans. Thinking about adding a room length duct with different dampers I can set for different psi so I'm making sure the other end is getting sufficient air so hopefully that will equalize the temps all over. As always all input is appreciated
Click to expand...
Its hard to comment on a system without over view but yes, you need your space to not be cold in one side warm in the other. We had a similar problem winter time a few years ago: we resolved it with ducting running around the place and cutting some holes in the ducting to get cold air in from all sides. But it seems more like you need heat. Also make sure you get readings on light intensity of cannopy level. Lux is usually fine as long as you base yourself on the plants: figure out what they can take in lux values according to your meter. If you have good transpiration evidenced by leaves stretching out, not too high cannopy level light intensity, but still get bleachy unhappy plants then you may need to just up your nute levels. Ideally measure ec in but also ec out, that way you see whats happening in the root zone and how much the plants are using.
With nutes it helps to think of it in terms of less of a stronger juice being equal to what you were feeding under hps/hid.
 
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