Good question. I have been thinking of this lately too after having watched the Hydro Innovations video.Im wondering which would be more efficient on cooling and electrical costs. Using a window a/c in a room or using icebox on the reflector with a water chiller and water pump?
I'm gonna throw the BS flag right here. I have a 1/4hp JBJ Artica chiller, and they are not designed to cool below 20 degrees below ambient. Infact, most 1/10hp to 1/3hp can only cool 20-25degrees below ambient RUNNING THE COMPRESSOR 24/7! I spoke with JBJ tech support and they informed me that in any low end chiller, the compressors is a tropical compressor and not a cold water compressor. Using a low end chiller is not efficient in ANYWAY possible.The one big difference that nobody has mentioned yet is power/amp draw. AC units use far more power. A 1/10 HP chiller can bring a 40 gallon reservoir down to 55 degrees in about 24 hours, while only drawing 150-200 watts of power, and around 2.2 amps. Once the res is at 55 degrees, the exhaust air should be no warmer than 75 degrees which is perfect. A 12,000 BTW AC unit draws around 11 amps and 1200 watts of power. After looking at all these numbers, an icebox setup seems far more efficient in my opinion. That's a very significant power savings.
Get a split a/c unit. those wont exchange air and do not require any ducting. Heres a 12,000 btu split a/c unit for $1000. https://rasahydroponics.com/climate-control/air-conditioners/aura-mini-split-air-conditionersI'm gonna throw the BS flag right here. I have a 1/4hp JBJ Artica chiller, and they are not designed to cool below 20 degrees below ambient. Infact, most 1/10hp to 1/3hp can only cool 20-25degrees below ambient RUNNING THE COMPRESSOR 24/7! I spoke with JBJ tech support and they informed me that in any low end chiller, the compressors is a tropical compressor and not a cold water compressor. Using a low end chiller is not efficient in ANYWAY possible.
I am running an 8" Icebox, an 700cfm fan, 50gallon cooling res, and the 1/4hp chiller. With my 1000w bulb, ambient temps in my sealed 7x7 closet hit 81 degress with 85% RH. Keep in mind the chiller compressor was running 24/7 too.
Long story short, I am ditching the icebox for a portable AC unit and I will just have to deal with the c02 loss through the venting. Unless I can find a 3/4hp chiller for cheap somewhere, but I don't think its gonna happen.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ECOPLUS-1-HP-COMMERCIAL-GRADE-WATER-CHILLER-/400201921194?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2de4b2aaI'm gonna throw the BS flag right here. I have a 1/4hp JBJ Artica chiller, and they are not designed to cool below 20 degrees below ambient. Infact, most 1/10hp to 1/3hp can only cool 20-25degrees below ambient RUNNING THE COMPRESSOR 24/7! I spoke with JBJ tech support and they informed me that in any low end chiller, the compressors is a tropical compressor and not a cold water compressor. Using a low end chiller is not efficient in ANYWAY possible.
I am running an 8" Icebox, an 700cfm fan, 50gallon cooling res, and the 1/4hp chiller. With my 1000w bulb, ambient temps in my sealed 7x7 closet hit 81 degress with 85% RH. Keep in mind the chiller compressor was running 24/7 too.
Long story short, I am ditching the icebox for a portable AC unit and I will just have to deal with the c02 loss through the venting. Unless I can find a 3/4hp chiller for cheap somewhere, but I don't think its gonna happen.
Seems a little pricey to me for a 1hp EcoPlus. All these people doing water cooling are just using the application wrong. That guy you quoted actually stated in his post why it wasn't working. He had a 1/4hp chiller with a 50 gallon reservoir. He would be a lot more efficient with a 25 gallon reservoir on a chiller that small. He said he had a 1000w light with 1 Ice Box. If you stick an Ice Box on a 1000w light then you will cool the exhaust from the light but not the ambient room temps or the heat created by dehumidifiers, pumps, ballasts, etc... For every Ice Box you have you need a 1/4hp of chilling.
build one out of a window ac. a 6000btu is about 1/2 hp but will do it. Of course it will also do the room bare bulb if there's enough volume in there.Long story short, I am ditching the icebox for a portable AC unit and I will just have to deal with the c02 loss through the venting. Unless I can find a 3/4hp chiller for cheap somewhere, but I don't think its gonna happen.
Water is 9x more absorbant of heat than air, and can hold 20x more of the energy.The claim that water cooling the grow room is more efficient than using air conditioning system seems groundless to me because the same exact method of heat removal is used in both cases, and water cooling involves more watts or energy used per btu of heat removed.
There is however one possible advantage of water cooling (I should say: utilizing refrigerant lines) to remove heat from grow room space. And that is the option of completely isolating the grow room with no air leaving it or coming in. This, however is only an advantage if water cooling is compared to window mounted A/C units. Split air conditioning units, aka: mini splits, heat pumps or ductless a/c do the same job but for far less money than complex and very expensive water chilled setups.
I am currently designing a sealed setup for a medical grower and will post updates and info.