1000w or 600w

i have a flowering room of 6.5'x4'x7.5'h .. i will have an aircooled hood with either 6" or 8" ducting and vortex fan. i was wonder if the 1000w would be too hot for this area. ill be using co2 also if that makes a difference.

also i plan on using a vortex fan for the aircooled hood and a seperate one for an exhaust, to a carbon filter.

do i need this powerfull of a fan ( 435cfm ) to keep my light cool? and would thhat fan be fine for exhaust with a passive intake?

I would run the 1000w or better yet 2 600w units ganged together with a 6" or 8" inline fan (400+cfm) If you decide to only run 1 1000w light with a 6" fan and a carbon filter, I dont see the need for another fan. Use the fan to pull air through the carbon filter, then past the light for cooling and then vent it outside. One 6" fan (400+cfm) should beenough to keep temps in check, cool the light and filter the air....depending on how far it takes you to get the venting outside.

Good Luck: Stlmatt

ok that is a very good idea also. i was running a seperate intake and outtake for the light and using a exhaust fan with carbon filter on it that only comes on when the temp or humidty gets to high. i plan on using co2, so if i am constantly sucking air out will it suck out my co2?

I would run the exhaust/cooling fan 24/7 and the light on a timer of corse You could feed your Co2 through the intake fan if thats what u want. I use a passive intake system so my exhaust fan runs 24/7 as to pull fresh air in 24/7 and exhaust stinky air out 24/7

I dont use co2 in my set up, so I cant really answer your question 100%, but if you going to use real co2 from a tank or generator then you could check the ppm and adjust accordingly.

Hope that helps: Stlmatt

those size fans are def sufficient for a 1000w

You don't exhaust if you're running CO2, if you want to scrub the air inside you can run a carbon filter and circulate the air inside. Some people do that so when you open the door smell doesn't escape. Get a controller that controls CO2, exhaust, and air conditioner if needed and that senses how much CO2 is in the air. This way when you exhaust at night, good idea to, it'll shut off the regulator and turn on the exhaust so you're not wasting CO2.

I'd stray away from the 1 fan, you had the right idea with 2 fans. More control that way especially if your seasons have huge temp spikes. I live in the northeast so I get cold winters and hot summers so I like the idea of 2 fans so I can gain heat in the winter. If I exhausted through my reflector I wouldn't be able to shut the reflector fan off to keep heat in the room. I'd have 62F temps instead of 78F.

I'd go with 2 600w's for that sized room and chain them together gives you closer to 50w/sq ft. And 600w bulbs have the most lumens per watt. I think 435CFM is a bit overkill for the light and would use that as a main exhaust until you get CO2 in. I'd use a cheap 240CFM inline for the lights. Mine keeps my 600w cool. I can leave my plants like 8 inches below it. Although if you have an air cooled hood that dramatically reduces the amount of ventilation needed. You could be good with say a Soler & Palau TD-150 for room exhaust and a cheap 240CFM for lights. I have a 240CFM for lights and a TD-200 and I honestly wish I got the TD-150. 550CFM is a bit overkill for an 8x10 room, although a good rule is 1cfm per cubic foot. This will give you 1 complete room air change every minute.

I'd make your passive intake double that size of your exhaust for adequate airflow.