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Those are awesome numbers.

Hey buddy. Hope your grow’s going well.

:cool:

Nice. What temp are you running? Also, gen 1 or gen 2?

Thanks for the feedback! I just linked the first pack of resistors of the correct values I found on Amazon. They can certainly be had for cheaper locally or via digi-key or similar. If I get the time, I'll see what digi-key has to offer instead and change the link. I added sinks for the EB...

Thanks. Ultimately, it’s the current that does the damage, but it needs a high enough voltage to overcome the resistance of your skin and start flowing through your body. You could have a huge current source with hundreds of amps but if the voltage is too low, all that current won’t go...

Nice! I did run the numbers once and it was significant savings. I want to say the total came to like 600-700 bucks using components.

Here are the steps I took to build an HLG 550 out of the components: HLG 550 Assembly Video

Did a write-up on strips the other day with an example design for each type of strip in a 2x2, 2x4, 3x3, 4x4, and 5x5 space. Each example design includes a complete shopping list as well. Check it out if you're looking for something to base your new strip build off of: DIY LED Strip Build...

I think it has to be the pot because even if you were somehow able to run them at a real cool temp like 25°C, their voltage would only be 35.5 at most, according to the Cree calculator. 4 of them would be 142V which is in range if that driver. Obviously more heat will reduce this voltage even...

Can confirm that these new boards feel considerably more solid and durable. You can easily tell the difference if you're holding a new board in one hand and an old one in the other. Also, that is a kick-ass machine!

I agree that constant current is a good way to go for beginners because it’s far less likely the equipment will be damaged but I think the main drawback to CC strip builds is how high the voltage gets. 10 of these in series at 1050mA will be ~230V which is a lot higher than I like working with...

Tell me more about this additional circuitry in the COBs. If you're going to accuse everyone of junk science, you can't be vague with your explanation. Sure, there are going to be minor differences in current among like strips or COBs or whatever in parallel, but does it really truly matter...

The funny part about people being so against parallel wiring is (like somebody already mentioned) if you look at any strip or COB, the diodes are already wired in all sorts of series/parallel combinations anyway. If it was such a problem, you'd think that people would have issues with half their...

I agree - the Bridgelux ones are much more informative. I’m like you: I’d prefer to pull up the data sheets and run the numbers myself rather than rely on something that does it in the background. I figured the tool might be helpful to those who want a quick answer though since the info...

If you have a look at one of the Samsung data sheets for these strips, you’ll see they only give you data for one test current which is far less than most people run them. They don’t even tell you what the max current is per strip. You can’t really just glance at the data sheet and figure out...

Heheh. Yeah I think the next attempt will be without a heat sink. It's kind of cheating but if I can't do it with a 600W driver then I've got to resort to special tactics.

Heheh. I'm not sure how unprotecting works. I'm afraid that all the cells and formulas would get screwed up by accident by people trying to use it. Yup. As soon as Samsung adds the LM301B to their calculator.

Yup, it'll work for 1 strip. I see further on in the thread that you'll be using more than 1 though anyway - I'm with Rider: I'd do 4 of those in that space.

For real though, I used the Samsung calculator to determine the Vf that the LM561C's will have at various levels of current, then multiplied that by however many diodes are in series in each type of strip. For the EB strips, I digitized the Vf-Current graph from the datasheet to derive these...