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Yeah, I have topped a few autos myself and I haven't experienced any problems. I do like topping and LST. I aslo have only grown 3 different auto strains and they all showed sex in 3-4 weeks top. They start flowering around weeks 4-6, the one that has lasted the most is now on week 7 and 1 week...

Overwatering: No signs of it, no wet soil, no curvy heavy leaves, so lets leave it there. RO Water: Yes, but the cause is the PH level of the water lowering the one in the soil, not the washing of the substances or the plant having depleted the minerals. Organic is low release, so nutrients are...

depends on the type of effect you want, the sooner you cut it, the "sativiest" the high. I personally like to cut it when thrichomes because white-amber, so while they dry out and cure get a little more ambar and I get more body high.

very nice size. the pistils would be in the nodes, not in the tips. Did you LST her already?

we need to probably wait to see but I say you wait until the secondary branches have 2 nodes to bend them, that way the 1st and 2nd nodes have the chance to develop vertical branches.

Sorry to hear that, but auto or not, it will continue to stretch until it gets into flowering stage. At this point I would try 12/12 regardless of the type of plant if stress is a problem and because we are not sure if it is an auto.

It says it harvests in 60 days ( 8 weeks ). http://www.buddhaseedbank.com/seed.php?id=7 No pistils present at all? If it had pistils, I would think it will just take another 2 weeks but since it doesn't I'm thinking you may have gotten the wrong seed and a regular fem instead possibly?

what I thought was lightgreen was in fact red. It now looks fine to me and I would say it is just close to harvest. I see a balanced mature-new pistils ratio which indicates is now ripening.

I've seen autos show sex in week 3-4. What strain is it, and what seedbank? - to get an idea of how many weeks it should take it. What light cycle are you using?

PS: I would add lime+epsom or dolomite, or calmag to correct the problem. To deal with the pot size problem and the possibility to have the bottom of the pot soaked in water all the time, I would water more often with very few water. I use a straw to water my young plants until I see the...

Not accurately measured maybe* but the fact is that RO removes the elements that rise PH and leaves the gases that lower PH, and it does removes the ca/mg supply from tap water. http://www.hydrologicsystems.com/faqs/faq.php?id=34 Also, if the plant was mine, at this point I would be trying to...

https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/best_cannabis_deficiency_visual_chart-jpg.3366046/

The RO water, besides having no ca/mg, is more acidic, probably due to the same lack of mg/ca .....Water that has been produced by a properly functioning reverse osmosis system is some of the purest water available, yet often RO users are surprised and a little alarmed to find that their very...

pictures?

Guys, we really don't care who has the bigger dick... you are kidnapping the thread on your discussion about who has it bigger.

I also think it looks Ca (rusty spots, no yellowing) lockout by PH. Light burn doesn't make sense because the most affected leaves are not at the top. You can also see initial spotting on the top leaves, seems it is advancing from the bottom.

Yes indeed.

Nice looking plant! What a shame you got root slime. I was looking perfect on day 35. What about the darkening of the leaves?

I just did some pruning of the yellow leaves as they are no longer contributing in photosynthesis and they clorofila has already been depleted. I also wanted to have the plant looking as green as possible so I could notice if the problem is still going on. On Friday, I added a bit of Epsom...

It seems to me they/it is showing initial signs of Mg deficiency. Look how the tips are a little burned, leaves are pointing upwards and decoloration is happening between the veins of the plant. The yellowing present at the harvest time is due to lack of N, but I would wait and see. If it is...