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re-read my post man, never did I say those were needed, I said that's how hydro growers typically grow, you being in an organic soil mix using chemical nutrients is a hybrid of the two. not sure how you understood that as being applicable to a soil grow, I was making a point n the differences...

I seeee, so you are using the companies own website and that's your basis of your argument? riiight, cuz they totally have your best interests in mind right? yup, hydro companies only speak the truth? use what you'd like to man, I have no issues with that whatsoever. we are in the organic...

say what? you quoting the wrong person my man?

also the easiest to screw it up too, considering he is in a mix that will hold onto those nutrients longer than a hydroponic media would, and also aren't inert, which is sorta fun to try and correct... but feeding when there is any problem tends to be the hydroponic-grower reaction to any...

keep in mind that could be from a couple different things too, in that sort of soil it'll typically steer acidic over time, and that time it takes to do that, is accelerated if it's in a small container, but essentially the interaction of the wood material will make the soil ph lower, and with...

i'd be concerned with that soil mix, it appears to be rather "foresty" lots of wood products and such, those aren't a good mix for cannabis usually. i'd transplant those (they'll need it soon anyways) into at least a half gallon or so if you can source any fresh humus sources (compost or worm...

absolutely, I use that method as well, only difference is I like to get a misting spray bottle to mist the roots before applying myco to them, gets the myco to stick a lil better

whats going on my man? so what I do with my soil after it's used is let it chill in my gigantic smartpot and depending on how long it'll be till I use it, I may or may not put a cover crop on it. one of my favorites is simply grass, they tend to attract and need the same sort of bacterial...

here is some related information copy and pasted website is at this address http://www.fftc.agnet.org/library.php?func=view&id=20110913155219 3.4.1 Nutrient Balance_carbon/Nitrogen Ratio Nutrient balance is very much dependent on the type of feed materials being processed. Carbon provides the...

ok, well, where does it go then? I apologize if I seem to be a lil aggressive but I have a fairly comprehensive understanding on how the scientific compost process works, and unless there is a new way of nutrients being leached out of the soil I don't see how any of that is being lost. past an...

the simple preface of the highlighted statement from you is a perfectly valid reason to age the soil. the added ewc is a type of inoculation, and the majority of those bacterial microbes will likely not be found in the prebagged soil, so you'll have a much better foundation of a living soil...

ya got it sorta a lil off, the microbes consume the carbon, they don't actually consume all the nutrients, they convert it. remember matter can't disappear without being used, sorta the same concept as cow manure or whatnot, all the plant material is still IN the cowshit, it's just a different...

stupid double post... edit...

depends on the intent, if the mix was intended more for a mix for flowering plants had either bone meal, granite dust, greensand, langbeinite, etc. then it could be useful for allowing that to be cycled also i would totally have no problem aging soil simply to keep the microbial diversity...

the biggest difference is the fact that peat is already composted, and coco isn't, also peat is closer to being inert than coco is, considering that it simply degrades into humus as it ages, rather the coco isn't composted, and degrades into varying amounts of nutrients, with potassium being the...

douche? careful who you rile up unless of course you have something useful to add. i ain't the best tree to bark at, son

for organics you;ll do better with 2 gals per foot of regular vertical growth, this only applies inside of course. you can do a one gallon per foot growth but that'll be closer to a hydro grow, meaning you'll need to supply the plant with chelated nutrients in order to support the growth. i do a...

absolutely, simple things like watering techniques and aeration choices make such a massive difference on health and vigor. and possibly the most overlooked too, probably80% of growers don't understand how paramount that is. water slowly, NEVER allowing the water to "lift"up any aeration, and...

the initial problem is UNDERwatering, look at the pic, there are very telltale signs of the plant going limp in the very recent past, and the lower taco'd leaf damage indicates that. each and every time that happen the roots shrivel, die, turn brown and essentially degrade into the media. it's...

yea man, if you tried that in a fabric pot you'd be dropping some harsh language reaaal fast, it's a total whore to transplant from those. fabric pots are good for outside grows, and that's about it, BUT they are damn great for outside grows though for me the biggest thing i use fabric pots for...