Nitrogen/magnesium/calcium deficiency and what im planning to do

LewberDewber852 said:
I feel ya on running low on buds and wanting to save them. Just understand that may take longer than just cutting your losses.
1) My reason for turning down the light and raising it is to try and limit stress on the plant and see how they respond. As if a plant isn’t healthy again there is no way it can use it all and there will be excess. Make a sick person run a marathon..
2) I left like 2” in mine picker to leave room to top dress WEEKLY (in reality the city pickers don’t hold that much soil) so to counter this you must top dress regularly. Also let the mix “cook” for a couple weeks prior to planting next time. I’m building my confidence as my goal will be to have large 25-30 gal sips someday.
3) Be reasonable with removing that bad growth and do this once they start to respond positively (if they do). U could also do some LST prior to trimming to help encourage lower growth.
5) Ik a lot of growers have had luck with tracking VPD but I have not. So the values I gave you were what mine were throughout veg. I’m flowering rn with about 78 deg and 58rh

GLR worked great for me and I don’t see myself looking back. I didn’t follow its scheduling perfect but again all through veg was just 14-on-4 off-1.5 on -4.5 off.

I appreciate the compliment on my grows but I am a total amateur as well. I’ve had my fair share of grows where I lose a lot of foliage (mostly indoor) but I never turned away from soil bc I love the fundamentals and biology. Good genetics help too. Everything from Twenty20 I’ve ran has killed it indoor even when I fucked up. I just love seed plants bc they grow up in the medium they will remain in.

There are some heavy hitters on this forum tho and take everything you read and apply it YOUR situation and equipment. Trying to measure your variables is great but unfortunately unless you have real calibrated equipment how can you trust it?
I think every soil grower has some gnats just pray they don’t get outta hand lol. I use them little sticky traps.

What light do you have? Also ive never used
coots so there are some pros with that and I’d lean on them for advice there as I’m not a compost expert but again someday hope to be. That’s why I use known soil and mix in extra stuff lightly.
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I've turned the light down to around 500 ppfd in the center of the tent. Nor sure what the make of my light is. It has a full spectrum, including some uva diodes, not sure on diode count or anything. It works well.

As far as gnats go, I've applied beneficial nematodes twice, and have the yellow sticky traps as well. Still have more gnats than I'd like, but don't believe they are causing problems. I see you use the covers that come with the City Pickers. In the past, I've made covers out of panda film, but I hated how it was a pita to hold them up while top dressing. So, this round I made the covers out of panda, but instead of just cutting holes for the plants, I've made the covers two pieces, cut straight down the middle. This is where the gnats are getting through to my soil to lay eggs. Next round, maybe I'll go back to just leaving holes for the plants, as I had far fewer gnats then.

My medium did cook for a week or two in a tote. So, I top dressed with more soil on the 26th here, so I will top dress again April 2nd. I use Gaia Green 4-4-4 and also have Gaia power bloom 2-8-4. So, will top-dress thee 4-4-4. I have some fish hydrolysate, and fish emulsion as well. The compost I use is a fish compost from Black Swallow Living Soils. It seems to work well. I'm in Canada, so it's expensive to get Dr Earth through Amazon. Would rather use it then Gaia, as Dr Earth has microbes added, whereas Gaia doesn't. Oh well, used Dynomyco at transplant. Bigger SIPs with more soil would be great, but I'm not there yet either. Not sure I ever will, but maybe someday.

I haven't removed any growth yet. I've been hanging weights off the main growth tip for lst, and using lst clips as well. The plant is fairly spread out already. Yes, I'm leary of chopping anything off.
 
Hollatchaboy said:
Ive not had one fungus gnat this grow. Normally I see a few buzzing around, but for the most part, I never really have problems with them. It's kinda weird too, because in the sip, the soil is constantly moist. It should be the perfect breeding ground for them.
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I think mine come from the fill tube tbh. As soon as I fill em is when I see one or two. If I had more benes I’m sure it would help. I don’t have enough to be concerned tho.
 
Nugnewbie said:
I've turned the light down to around 500 ppfd in the center of the tent. Nor sure what the make of my light is. It has a full spectrum, including some uva diodes, not sure on diode count or anything. It works well.

As far as gnats go, I've applied beneficial nematodes twice, and have the yellow sticky traps as well. Still have more gnats than I'd like, but don't believe they are causing problems. I see you use the covers that come with the City Pickers. In the past, I've made covers out of panda film, but I hated how it was a pita to hold them up while top dressing. So, this round I made the covers out of panda, but instead of just cutting holes for the plants, I've made the covers two pieces, cut straight down the middle. This is where the gnats are getting through to my soil to lay eggs. Next round, maybe I'll go back to just leaving holes for the plants, as I had far fewer gnats then.

My medium did cook for a week or two in a tote. So, I top dressed with more soil on the 26th here, so I will top dress again April 2nd. I use Gaia Green 4-4-4 and also have Gaia power bloom 2-8-4. So, will top-dress thee 4-4-4. I have some fish hydrolysate, and fish emulsion as well. The compost I use is a fish compost from Black Swallow Living Soils. It seems to work well. I'm in Canada, so it's expensive to get Dr Earth through Amazon. Would rather use it then Gaia, as Dr Earth has microbes added, whereas Gaia doesn't. Oh well, used Dynomyco at transplant. Bigger SIPs with more soil would be great, but I'm not there yet either. Not sure I ever will, but maybe someday.

I haven't removed any growth yet. I've been hanging weights off the main growth tip for lst, and using lst clips as well. The plant is fairly spread out already. Yes, I'm leary of chopping anything off.
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Sounds like you’re on it dood. I’m curious to see how they react so be sure to update if they respond positively!
 
Nugnewbie said:
Hi Delps, thanks for your input. If you are going by vpd, I've been pretty close to spot on. My temps varied between 82-84 and as I said my rh was around 70%. That puts me at 1.0. 82-84 and 70%rh is 0.9 and 1.0 on the chart you have. Not sure what your red arrow is pointing to. If there is anything that I feel I've done right its maintaining a decent vpd.
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I appreciate your comment. I misread your RH readings (a vision issue) and thought your RH was 76 to 78.

" maintaining a decent vpd. "
With RH at 70±, your VPD is great.

Apologies for the confusion.

Nugnewbie said:
I think the nutrient issue I have was not feeding early enough, not realizing that by not filling the container full of soil, the plants ran short of nutrients. I've read your posts about how much the plant loves light. I guess I just need to get feeding with medium and dry amendments at the proper times to run at higher ppfd.
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I think that's the right approach. If a grower can't get a grow to "800 to 1000µmol, strain dependent", that's an indicator that something's up with the grow.

"I guess I just need to get feeding with medium and dry amendments at the proper times to run at higher ppfd."
I've seen (grow journals on another site) two grows that couldn't get over 500µmol. In both cases, the growers hadn't watered properly and the soil had become hygrophobic. :-(
 
Delps8 said:
I appreciate your comment. I misread your RH readings (a vision issue) and thought your RH was 76 to 78.

" maintaining a decent vpd. "
With RH at 70±, your VPD is great.

Apologies for the confusion.


I think that's the right approach. If a grower can't get a grow to "800 to 1000µmol, strain dependent", that's an indicator that something's up with the grow.

"I guess I just need to get feeding with medium and dry amendments at the proper times to run at higher ppfd."
I've seen (grow journals on another site) two grows that couldn't get over 500µmol. In both cases, the growers hadn't watered properly and the soil had become hygrophobic. :-(
Click to expand...
Yes, I couldn't seem to figure out watering in regular pots, thus one reason I started growing in SIPs. It has helped, although I believed for a time that it had solved all of my watering problems. I believe top watering in the SIP occasionally to assure there aren't dry spots is something I should also do. I also mixed yucca powder into my coots mix as peat has that tendency to become hydrophobic.
 
Delps8 said:
I appreciate your comment. I misread your RH readings (a vision issue) and thought your RH was 76 to 78.

" maintaining a decent vpd. "
With RH at 70±, your VPD is great.

Apologies for the confusion.


I think that's the right approach. If a grower can't get a grow to "800 to 1000µmol, strain dependent", that's an indicator that something's up with the grow.

"I guess I just need to get feeding with medium and dry amendments at the proper times to run at higher ppfd."
I've seen (grow journals on another site) two grows that couldn't get over 500µmol. In both cases, the growers hadn't watered properly and the soil had become hygrophobic. :-(
Click to expand...
If agree with the underwatering, but op has stated that there's fungus gnats. That's a sign of overwatering. Could be that op underwatered at some point though.
 
Nugnewbie said:
Yes, I couldn't seem to figure out watering in regular pots, thus one reason I started growing in SIPs. It has helped, although I believed for a time that it had solved all of my watering problems. I believe top watering in the SIP occasionally to assure there aren't dry spots is something I should also do. I also mixed yucca powder into my coots mix as peat has that tendency to become hydrophobic.
Click to expand...
Let’s talk container size. And veg time
 
Nugnewbie said:
Yes, I couldn't seem to figure out watering in regular pots, thus one reason I started growing in SIPs. It has helped, although I believed for a time that it had solved all of my watering problems. I believe top watering in the SIP occasionally to assure there aren't dry spots is something I should also do. I also mixed yucca powder into my coots mix as peat has that tendency to become hydrophobic.
Click to expand...
You shouldn't be having hydrophobic problems, in a sip. Do you keep the res full? What are you using for wicks?
 
Just blabbing here. The city pickers box I found online has 12x20x12 : 1 x 1.66 x 1 approx 1.6 cf filled to the brim. I’d guess with the bottom rez portion and actual soil cf being closer to 1x1.66x .75 = 1.2 ish cf or 8 gallons ish. One container flower plant or do you have multiple in each?
Coots style mixes need a lot of soil volume to work properly and with extended veg time this need exponentially grows. Your issue may stem from this alone. 6-8 week veg should =15-30 gallons of soil 15 minimum

With 7-8 gallons I would like to see 2-3 weeks total veg time in a plant in a smaller container, or less. You woild have better yields and healthier plant if you planted your clones into the sip and flowered after a few days, maybe a week.

If I had that rectangle shape box I’d put two clones in it from red cups and flip right away

Edit: just saw ( I should read better) you have two plants per pot so now I’m even more sure this is your main issue here
 
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green_machine_two9er said:
Let me clarify by saying count veg time in your 1 gallon in between stage through when your flip.
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So I have 2 in my sip, from seed. Went from solo cup to sip. 2 weeks later flipped. With the sips, the soil surface works like a gut, breaking down matter, pretty quick, if you keep maintaining it.
It's pretty surprising how big you can maintain a plant through flower. It's a lot of work though.

That being said, I grow them smaller now. They do seem healthier so far, and it's less work.
 
Hollatchaboy said:
So I have 2 in my sip, from seed. Went from solo cup to sip. 2 weeks later flipped. With the sips, the soil surface works like a gut, breaking down matter, pretty quick, if you keep maintaining it.
It's pretty surprising how big you can maintain a plant through flower. It's a lot of work though.

That being said, I grow them smaller now. They do seem healthier so far, and it's less work.
Click to expand...
See, that seems right on schedule for mineral demand in the plants. Couple weeks veg and flip.
 
Hollatchaboy said:
You shouldn't be having hydrophobic problems, in a sip. Do you keep the res full? What are you using for wicks?
Click to expand...
The city Pickers have wicks which are just packed medium in 3 of the four corners of the planter. I generally fill the reservoir with around 18 cups of water, and of course, at first, until the roots spread out, doesn't need the full amount each day. I just top it up everyday at lights on at 6 pm. Once the roots have become spread out, likely touching the reservoir, if the plants are healthy, they will drink the entire amount between watering. So, I would say, no to the question of whether I keep the res full at all times. I don't have a very accurate way of determining how much water is in the reservoir, so if there is water left in it, I try to guess how much I can put in without having it overflow.
 
Nugnewbie said:
The city Pickers have wicks which are just packed medium in 3 of the four corners of the planter. I generally fill the reservoir with around 18 cups of water, and of course, at first, until the roots spread out, doesn't need the full amount each day. I just top it up everyday at lights on at 6 pm. Once the roots have become spread out, likely touching the reservoir, if the plants are healthy, they will drink the entire amount between watering. So, I would say, no to the question of whether I keep the res full at all times. I don't have a very accurate way of determining how much water is in the reservoir, so if there is water left in it, I try to guess how much I can put in without having it overflow.
Click to expand...
Ok yea, it's like my earthbox, only one more wick.
I just filled mine until it started overflowing. 2 gallons. I use 1.5 gallons. It lasts 3 days. It'll go empty in the morning, and I'll refill when I get home. It shouldn't get hydrophobic, as long as the wicks are packed down good.
 
green_machine_two9er said:
Just blabbing here. The city pickers box I found online has 12x20x12 : 1 x 1.66 x 1 approx 1.6 cf filled to the brim. I’d guess with the bottom rez portion and actual soil cf being closer to 1x1.66x .75 = 1.2 ish cf or 8 gallons ish. One container flower plant or do you have multiple in each?
Coots style mixes need a lot of soil volume to work properly and with extended veg time this need exponentially grows. Your issue may stem from this alone. 6-8 week veg should =15-30 gallons of soil 15 minimum

With 7-8 gallons I would like to see 2-3 weeks total veg time in a plant in a smaller container, or less. You woild have better yields and healthier plant if you planted your clones into the sip and flowered after a few days, maybe a week.

If I had that rectangle shape box I’d put two clones in it from red cups and flip right away

Edit: just saw ( I should read better) you have two plants per pot so now I’m even more sure this is your main issue here
Click to expand...

Hey green machine, thanks for weighing in. The City Pickers are actually 20.5x24.5x7.5". They will carry 2 cf of soil if full. But, yeah, I didn't fill them full, and have two different cultivars in each, grown from seed. I wanted variety so I would have choice when it comes time to have a puff. They are all hybrids, mostly indica leaning. But, I think you are right as far as transplanting from solo cups, go two weeks to flip. It's hard for me to have a bunch of clones and whatnot due to a low plant count. Am in Canada, only allowed four. But, would be nice with two clones in each. For future reference for sure.
 
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