The ever present and on going war vs....

yep ... you know them you hate them... my worst enemy and yours.....

SPIDER MITES!!

Fucking bastards... coming on in week 7 like are you fucking serious???? Normally I am 100% willing to violate the Geneva conventions and wage some chemical warfare against these bitches... but week 7... you clever little pecker heads.... well hand to hand trench warfare it is you sons a bitches....

Got Dr. Doom? Shit works….

meangreengrowinmachine said:

yep ... you know them you hate them... my worst enemy and yours.....

SPIDER MITES!!
View attachment 5380206
Fucking bastards... coming on in week 7 like are you fucking serious???? Normally I am 100% willing to violate the Geneva conventions and wage some chemical warfare against these bitches... but week 7... you clever little pecker heads.... well hand to hand trench warfare it is you sons a bitches....

View attachment 5380207

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Lucky me I never dealt with these things

I use Abamectin and mix it with clofentezine/apollo sc, the abamectin smashes the adults and the other one kills any eggs, one spray and it wipes them out.

I have no problems during veg at all (which is when I use things to keep them off) its in late flower when they come on that it gets to be like this. I dont want to spray ANYTHING on my flowers... I have an idea though... so where I am deer are every where and will decimate an out door vegetable garden, they are also notoriously hard to keep out of fences... what a lot of people to is plant Hostas which the deer LOVE and the deer then will eat those instead of the vegetable garden... so my idea... is there some plant that spider mites love more then ANYTHING that will draw them away from my plants? Any ideas???

From what I can find (I'm a certified chemical applicator, been killing turf and ornamental pests for a decade) there is nothing that will attract them enough to want to leave your Cannabis plants. It will just host more and increase population.

Green Clean is safe up to a week from harvest
Lay the plant down if you can and spray the underside of the leaves good-
Close to harvest- I would wait 24 hours and spray again with just water.
No noticeable changes in flavor or potency

Beeswings said:

From what I can find (I'm a certified chemical applicator, been killing turf and ornamental pests for a decade) there is nothing that will attract them enough to want to leave your Cannabis plants. It will just host more and increase population.

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booooo lol

meangreengrowinmachine said:

I have no problems during veg at all (which is when I use things to keep them off) its in late flower when they come on that it gets to be like this. I dont want to spray ANYTHING on my flowers... I have an idea though... so where I am deer are every where and will decimate an out door vegetable garden, they are also notoriously hard to keep out of fences... what a lot of people to is plant Hostas which the deer LOVE and the deer then will eat those instead of the vegetable garden... so my idea... is there some plant that spider mites love more then ANYTHING that will draw them away from my plants? Any ideas???

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You can use bean plants as “trap plants” but like the other poster said, they will turn into mite factories unless you have a control system set up. They might be good for detecting an infestation at an early stage.

I ordered these off Amazon and so far I think they’re good. Earlier I got some ladybugs and they also ate a lot of mites but I want to see if I can establish a population of predators that will stay in the grow area.

Jim Haddar said:

I ordered these off Amazon and so far I think they’re good. Earlier I got some ladybugs and they also ate a lot of mites but I want to see if I can establish a population of predators that will stay in the grow area.

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Yeah I have ordered lady bugs before. The issue with that is the lady bug stage that really eats the mites are the larvae so unless you get the larvae (which I am not 100% sure you can do) you need to wait for the lady bugs to reproduce also then you have freaking lady bug larvae cocoons all over your harvest... I guess it is better then spider mites though lol. I also got 4 little preying mantis last time but they did not seem to have any interest in the mites at all... they loved eating the lady bugs though! I will probably just get some lady bugs again for next grow but will have to wait until spring. They will just die in transit right now if I order them.

Jim Haddar said:

You can use bean plants as “trap plants” but like the other poster said, they will turn into mite factories unless you have a control system set up. They might be good for detecting an infestation at an early stage.

https://www.greenhousemag.com/article/gmpro-0411-trap-plants-biologicial-controls-pesticides/

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hmm interesting... I will have to look into this, thanks for the info!

ok this article is EXACTLY what I was looking for! So my idea would be to have this trap plant and every day remove it from the grow space bring it outside or what not and completely remove all the mites from it and eggs if possible. Maybe use one of the approaches noted above where you spray with something then rinse it off (I don't want to deter the mites from the beans just remove them and any eggs). Then re add the clean plant to the grow space, attracting more mites from the good plants, repeat. I could use just small containers under the canopy... I think iImight try this...


What do we think of this idea?

coreywebster said:

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This is me every morning in my garden with the damn things right now grumbling to myself under my breath at them

Predator bugs don't do anything, if you have a real problem with Spidermites, Abamectin mixed with clofentezine/apollo sc wipes them out in one spray when the plant is about 8 inches tall, and there are no more spidermites eggs and all, Ive tried good bugs and all sorts of things nothing worked , now I don't have a problem at all.

Now When u say spider mites, do mean hemp russet/broad mites or regular two spot mites? 109% diff issues and def diff Ipm/sop needed

example hrm/broad are so nasty they will even eat ur buds alive , regular mites don’t . hrm/broad mites u can’t see and they don’t produce webbs or eye visually eggs vs regular mites. Hrm/broad mite is so small it’s small than a regular mites egg and they are so small they will produce photoins into leafs and semi attach inbetween the leafs tissue and that’s also why it’s soo hard to kill them without a product like acid or forbid .


i suggest getting a good scope and get a confirm what species u are seeing. Unlike hrm/broad if it’s just two spot and it’s not a crazy pressure/populations u really can just let it go and like many pests once the plant dies/dries when harvesting/drying the physical pest will have no food and like many pest u can physically see the pest leaving on the stems and looking for food. hrm/broad would be a diff subject caude if that was case and ur pest populations if that and ur mid flower and it shows population I would suggest spraying suffoil-x every 7days along with venerate mixed inand both are safe to harvest . Suffoilx mode will kill all stages of all mites including hrm and broad (4-5T per gallon water if high pressure, otherwise 2.5T). The main point of these products is they don’t over stress plant even on high dosage, pest can’t become resistant, can be mixed with many pesticides and biocontrols with no bad effect and cost effective

key with products that are like forbid or acid is 100% surface spraying and also making sure to never miss a spray but also keeping ur infected lesfs if hrm or broad removed , hrm and broad like I stated above fuck ur plants health up cause they add toxins to it to make it more easy on them to chow down and this is why if infected with them you’ll see what is called “tocoing” and they unlike regular mites attack to[s and new growth and have np with high rh or many ranges of temps vs regular mites where they need lower rh and thrive at heat .


two spot


hemp russets

compassionateExotic said:

Now When u say spider mites, do mean hemp russet/broad mites or regular two spot mites? 109% diff issues and def diff Ipm/sop needed

example hrm/broad are so nasty they will even eat ur buds alive , regular mites don’t . hrm/broad mites u can’t see and they don’t produce webbs or eye visually eggs vs regular mites. Hrm/broad mite is so small it’s small than a regular mites egg and they are so small they will produce photoins into leafs and semi attach inbetween the leafs tissue and that’s also why it’s soo hard to kill them without a product like acid or forbid .


i suggest getting a good scope and get a confirm what species u are seeing. Unlike hrm/broad if it’s just two spot and it’s not a crazy pressure/populations u really can just let it go and like many pests once the plant dies/dries when harvesting/drying the physical pest will have no food and like many pest u can physically see the pest leaving on the stems and looking for food. hrm/broad would be a diff subject caude if that was case and ur pest populations if that and ur mid flower and it shows population I would suggest spraying suffoil-x every 7days along with venerate mixed inand both are safe to harvest . Suffoilx mode will kill all stages of all mites including hrm and broad (4-5T per gallon water if high pressure, otherwise 2.5T). The main point of these products is they don’t over stress plant even on high dosage, pest can’t become resistant, can be mixed with many pesticides and biocontrols with no bad effect and cost effective

SuffOil-X®

SuffOil-X® SuffOil-X is an insecticide, miticide, and fungicide that suffocates pests in all life stages with a unique concentration of pre-emulsified and highly refined oil. SuffOil-X’s formulation delivers lower petroleum oil content and a droplet size that’s 93% smaller than

bioworksinc.com

https://www.profarm.org/products/venerate

key with products that are like forbid or acid is 100% surface spraying and also making sure to never miss a spray but also keeping ur infected lesfs if hrm or broad removed , hrm and broad like I stated above fuck ur plants health up cause they add toxins to it to make it more easy on them to chow down and this is why if infected with them you’ll see what is called “tocoing” and they unlike regular mites attack to[s and new growth and have np with high rh or many ranges of temps vs regular mites where they need lower rh and thrive at heat .


two spot

Twospotted spider mites in home gardens

How to identify twospotted spider mites

extension.umn.edu

hemp russets

Hemp Russet Mite

A brief page about hemp russet mites, including the plants affected, a brief description, symptoms, management, and insecticide care.

extension.usu.edu

https://webdoc.agsci.colostate.edu/hempinsects/PDFs/Hemp%20Russet%20Mite_New_6-28-18.pdf

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Well damn luckily not those insane ones! I ended up just riding it out and taking care of them manually until I harvested. Thanks for the heads up!

If they aint too big and you aint in bloom yet Just dunk the plants in ice cold water that kills em off stunts the plants somewhat for a lil but sure beats using half the chemicals some are recommending here imo also ive heard this also works on broad mites too but i have never encountered them yet myself so i aint tryed it for that nah it is just spider mites thrips gnats and moths ive occasionally had to deal with for the most part

I like the simple buy five habaneros peppers has to be habanero, because of the capsaicin and some other natural chemical and cut and mince all up and cook in a liter of water and lowest setting,boiling will kill what you need. If have festation spray under and then all over,dirt, pot,floor then repeat every couple days for week or so and can be used as a preventative just for piece of mind.