Fuck, I think I have powder mildew!!!!

justanotherbozo

Well-Known Member
everything ive read says it cannot be removed from an infected plant. once its in a mother it will become a trait of each subsequent clone as if its inbeded in the plants dna. the key is to keep ur environment from becoming a breeding ground with good venalation and air flow as well as prevention treatments. pm looks like cotton type film growing on ur leaves and will attack the flowers soon after showing its ugly face. Had to toss a 7'+ pre98 bubba mom last winter...it was a sad day to say the least
systemic, not-systemic, ...the fact is powdery mildew is a very common problem and it is totally treatable, i KNOW because i've done it, it ain't easy to do organically but if you're in veg, Eagle20 will cure your pm problem with one application, guaranteed, ...it's not organic though, ...for that you'd use the milk and it would take multiple applications to eradicate the mildew.

...that's not to say you can't get it again, it's like an infection and if the conditions are right in your environment, it WILL come back, ...the key is in making sure your environment is WRONG for pm and it will never become a problem again.

peace, bozo
 

RetiredMatthebrute

Well-Known Member
you just need to decrease you RH and increase air circulation and clear up whats going on now and it shouldnt come back. if you dont give it the enviorment it wont live there.
 

smokajoe

Well-Known Member
See then im confused my only problem can be air flow then, because ya 82 or less in veg room, and humidity low too
 

THE KONASSURE

Well-Known Member
clean everything and check anything that might have cause PM to get into your grow

I had a plant outside in the garden get it so I soaked it with industrial mildew killer just so that it would not infect anything else I mean I have fruit plants and all sorts outside

It came from somewhere if you find the source then that takes away your only x-factor if your humidity is low.
 

justanotherbozo

Well-Known Member
...this might help, ...and this information is freely available to anyone who cares to go looking for it, ...far better to do that than to just shit and wait for an answer that may or may not be right.

peace, bozo

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Powdery mildew life-cycle:

Powdery mildew is one of the most widespread and easily recognized plant diseases. Powdery mildews are most severe when the weather is warm and dry, and they affect virtually all kinds of plants: cereals and grasses, vegetables, flowers, weeds, shrubs, fruit trees, and broad-leaved shade and forest trees. Many plants have been developed to be resistant to or tolerant of powdery mildew. Succulent tissue is the most susceptible to infection.

Description:
Even though there are several types of powdery mildew fungi, they all produce similar symptoms on plants. Powdery mildews are characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish, talcum powder-like growth. Tiny, pinhead-sized, spherical fruiting structures--first white, then yellow-brown and finally black--may be present singly or in a group. These are the cleistothecia or overwintering bodies of the fungus. The disease is most commonly observed on the upper side of the leaves. It also affects the bottom sides of leaves, young stems, buds, flowers and young fruit. Infected leaves may become distorted, turn yellow with small patches of green, and fall prematurely. Infected buds may fail to open.

Damage:
The severity of the disease depends on many factors: variety of the host plant, age and condition of the plant and weather conditions during the growing season. Powdery mildews are severe in warm, dry weather because, unlike most fungi, powdery mildew require a wet leaf surface for infection to occur. However, the relative humidity of the air does need to be high for spore germination. Therefore, the disease is common in crowded plantings where air circulation is poor and in damp, shaded areas. Incidence of infection increases as relative humidity rises to 90 percent, but it does not occur when leaf surfaces are wet (e.g., in a rain shower). Young, succulent growth is usually more susceptible than older plant tissues. Powdery mildew can seriously impact yield on flowering crops such as squash, pumpkins, cyclamen and reiger begonia, but on other plants such as lilac and oak, the mildew is unsightly but does not severely harm the plant.

Life Cycle:
Powdery mildews are host specific: they cannot survive without the proper host plant. For example, the species Uncinula necator, which causes powdery mildew on grape and linden, does not attack lilac. Similarly, Microsphaea alni affects elm, catalpa, lilac and oak but not turfgrass.
Powdery mildews produce mycelium (fungal threads) that grow only on the surface of the plant. They never invade the tissues themselves. The fungi feed by sending haustoria, or root-like structures, into the epidermal (top) cells of the plant. The fungi overwinter on plant debris as cleistothecia or mycelium. In the spring, the cleistothecia produce spores that are moved to susceptible host tissue by splashing raindrops, wind or insects.

Control:
Several practices will reduce or prevent powdery mildews. Many plants, such as roses, vegetables and Kentucky bluegrass, are developed to be resistant or tolerant to powdery mildew. Use resistant varieties whenever possible.
Once the disease becomes a problem:
• Avoid late-summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer to limit the production of succulent tissue (which is more susceptible to infection).
• Avoid overhead watering to help reduce the relative humidity or water in the early morning to let the tissue dry as soon as possible.
• Remove and destroy all infected plant parts (leaves, etc.). For infected vegetables and other annuals, remove as much of the plant and its debris in the fall. This decreases the ability of the fungus to survive the winter. Do not compost infected plant debris. Temperatures often are not hot enough to kill the fungus.
• Selectively prune overcrowded plant material to help increase air circulation. This helps reduce relative humidity and infection.
• An alternative nontoxic control for mildew is baking soda combined with a lightweight horticultural oil. Researchers at the University of Rhode Island have confirmed that a combination of 1 tablespoon baking soda plus 2.5 tablespoons oil in 1 gallon of water is effective against powdery mildew on roses. Use of this combination on other crops is still experimental.


Adapted from the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension, 1999
 

wineglut

Member
Powdery mildew thrives in humidity, but it's spores are killed by water. Reduce humidity, but don't be afraid to wet the leaves as long as you can dry them out. It seems like a contradiction, but it isn't. There are systemic fungicides and things like elemental sulfur which you can spray, but considering you are going to smoke this shit, I would look to simple treatments that you might not worry about in your lungs.. I had spots of pm in this current grow during some heavy rains that raised the ambient humidity of my garage and hence my tent. Gave the plants a heavy rinse of water plus baking soda plus Ivory dish detergent. Google it, but I think the usual combo is a tablespoon of each in a gal of water. No problem now, and lack of rain has RH down to 30%.
 

smokajoe

Well-Known Member
Even on the 6 week into flower plants?

Also can I spray directly on or near buds?
After spray should I turn fans on immediately to dry? Or will that spread spores ?
Also the video with Cervantes anyone smoked weed after h2o2 bath and wash?
 

Uncle Pirate

Active Member
Yes, it's fine. Spray soak the plants, let them dry. The spray breaks down the spores, so no, it won't make it spread. The bath is for recovery of plants that have already been chopped and mildew discovered.
 

Uncle Pirate

Active Member
When I used it, one spraying took care of it. Once I got my humidity down, it stayed gone. You could spray again in a week just to be sure, but you might not have to. Just keep a close eye on them.
 

slim83

Well-Known Member
i had pm in my veg and flower rooms I wiped off all that I could see and ran a sulphur burner and used elemental sulpher from my grow shop I used it during one dark cycle and have not had a problem with the pm since. I would highly recommend looking into this I used it one time and had immediate results.

I built one just like this but i used a ir heat lamp from petco instead of a green light
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=2248487
this is the heat lamp I used
http://www.petco.com/product/5003/Zoo-Med-Repticare-Ceramic-Infrared-Heat-Emitters.aspx?CoreCat=certona-_-ProductListTopRated_Reptile_1-_-Zoo Med Repticare Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitters-5003
 

bde0001

New Member
Yes, it's fine. Spray soak the plants, let them dry. The spray breaks down the spores, so no, it won't make it spread. The bath is for recovery of plants that have already been chopped and mildew discovered.
wait you can save a plant that has got some mold? Oh shit man, My plant had spores but not anything concentrated on the plants and i threw them away. 4 monster plants...

the mold was concentrated between the wall and foil
 
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