World Of Hempy

Moebius

Well-Known Member

Hempy Style


Hempy buckets are by far the easiest, cheapest and most cost effective way to grow hydroponically. In my 7 years of growing I’ve done aeroponics, dwc, bio-buckets and Hempy and there is no comparing the simplicity.
• No pH testing needed
• No ppm meters
• No stress about root rot
all three of these true???
I would say Yes.

EC
Im not using my EC/PPM pen yet. Reason why? ... All a pen can give you are numbers, it can't tell you how your plant reacts to a specific dosage. I prefer to measure dosage (ml), watch how the plants at that stage of its cycle and repeat. ..... A pen is only essential in measuring PPM in re-circulating systems so a grower knows how much to top up a res by.

pH
pH is more important than EC but with a little common sense the need for a pen can be reduced. Its essential to know whether you live in hard or soft water area. In a hard water area, youre nutes will bring your pH to within an exceptable level and even without any pH down, you'll still get bud. .... Ive no experience trying to grow with soft water but I imagine nutes and a couple of drops of pH up will generally bring you into a correct range.

root rot
Ive never experienced this with any style ive done. Ive done soil, DWC (second favourite), Hempy, NFT and never seen it.
 

ineverveg

Active Member
Im not sure what japanfreak is referring to but you need a ppm and ph meter for any grow. Without those how will you know how much you are feeding your plants.
this is all he has to say on the matter of ph but in there he hints at "thats the claim" as if there is some literature on the subject which i cant find.

As far as pH goes, beats the hell out of me why people say pH doesn't matter but that's the claim, I have no idea if anybody actually tested it at different pH points or not. In the 3 years I've been growing with this style I've never tested my pH but I know from before while doing DWC that my tap water is about 7.0 out of the faucet so with my nutes added it should be right around 6.0 anyway. If you already have all the pH shit you may as well balance it, but my advice to people who don't have a pH pen is to try a round without, you might be fine without.

i came across this when researching into my hempy grow last week,my ph was at just over 8 and had probably been like that for a week with no obvious signs of lockout , could this theory be true? i just took delivery of a new ph pen and a ppm meter and i will be aiming for 6 every time however this has my curiosity now...
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
i came across this when researching into my hempy grow last week,my ph was at just over 8 and had probably been like that for a week with no obvious signs of lockout , could this theory be true? i just took delivery of a new ph pen and a ppm meter and i will be aiming for 6 every time however this has my curiosity now...
To some extent because of the extensive hybridization of Marijuana and hundreds of brands of nutrients, every grower has to learn this stuff for themselves every-time. ... Now the books will tell us Canna grows best within a pH range of say 5.8 - 6.8, thats a massive range! and to compound the ambiguity there is no telling what your strain of plant prefers in the substrate you are using.

Another factor to consider is, pH up/down acids mess the NPK levels up completely and IMO to the extent of rendering the N.P.K label system 'almost' meaningless. God knows how the micro's contained in these formulas respond to pH up/down, im sure its responsible for a lot of the lock-outs growers experience.

I'm not saying don't ph up/down, I do. but that I think it can cause lock-outs in itself.
 

ineverveg

Active Member
what do u guys use for veg? hps or mh? i was wondering if hps was a bit better
250w hps is doing a cracking job on my moms atm,but i just picked up an extra 150 w cfl to go with it

Another factor to consider is, pH up/down acids mess the NPK levels up completely and IMO to the extent of rendering the N.P.K label system 'almost' meaningless. God knows how the micro's contained in these formulas respond to pH up/down, im sure its responsible for a lot of the lock-outs growers experience.

I'm not saying don't ph up/down, I do. but that I think it can cause lock-outs in itself.
i nearly just put a little ph down in my res the other day but i didn't like the idea of all that acid to come down that far, so i had to empty and flush, pleased i did now but it took hours lol
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
i nearly just put a little ph down in my res the other day but i didn't like the idea of all that acid to come down that far, so i had to empty and flush, pleased i did now but it took hours lol
pH down is the most unpleasant substance in indoor growing. I resent having to use it. :evil:
 

sky rocket

Well-Known Member
I would say Yes.

EC
Im not using my EC/PPM pen yet. Reason why? ... All a pen can give you are numbers, it can't tell you how your plant reacts to a specific dosage. I prefer to measure dosage (ml), watch how the plants at that stage of its cycle and repeat. ..... A pen is only essential in measuring PPM in re-circulating systems so a grower knows how much to top up a res by.

pH
pH is more important than EC but with a little common sense the need for a pen can be reduced. Its essential to know whether you live in hard or soft water area. In a hard water area, youre nutes will bring your pH to within an exceptable level and even without any pH down, you'll still get bud. .... Ive no experience trying to grow with soft water but I imagine nutes and a couple of drops of pH up will generally bring you into a correct range.

root rot
Ive never experienced this with any style ive done. Ive done soil, DWC (second favourite), Hempy, NFT and never seen it.

Not saying it couldn't be done but I would love to see a newbie grower with a ph and ppm meter vs a newbie just adding water and nutes.

. . . . I would put my money on the newbie with the meters vs non meters any day.
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Not saying it couldn't be done but I would love to see a newbie grower with a ph and ppm meter vs a newbie just adding water and nutes.

. . . . I would put my money on the newbie with the meters vs non meters any day.
Maybe, Maybe not. Meters may distract a newbie and have them chasing their own tail.

They're a relatively new tool available to the grower and i'm guessing people managed fine without. They're is something to be said for not relying on meters and trying to grow by numbers.

I look upon them as a 'fine tuning' tools. Its not like any of us stick to manufacturers EC/PPM levels anyhow.
 

drdank50

Well-Known Member
So I was watering my plants today and noticed that the plushberry's inner flowers are a dark purple. I'll have to get a pic, but it's the darkest purple I've ever seen in flower. Guessing it's the Black Cherry Soda pheno. I hear it's low yielding, but the smoke is pretty right on.





 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
^ Beautiful, I hope my GDP gets some colours like that. I'm going to have a look now. :mrgreen:


edit:
nope, still waiting for purple on mines.
 

smoothness

Active Member
How much average weight can a sativa Dom vegged for 2 months pull? Lst and all? What about one begged for 4 months? At least 2 oz a plant?
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
Im not sure what japanfreak is referring to but you need a ppm and ph meter for any grow. Without those how will you know how much you are feeding your plants.
I pull 4 o's per plant in little 2g buckets, no pH reads, no ppm reads and never a sign of root rot. My secret:
* RO water, a consistent low ppm and pH for mixing base nutes.
* Nutrients designated for "soft" water.
* I follow the grow guides of the nutrient manufacturer but stay a tad shy of the recommended dose while plants are young.
* I mix the nutrients and let them sit for at least an hour to help buffer the solution (the longer the better). If using Cal/Mg I mix that in first.
* I toss in a pinch of "Piranha" beneficial microbes during the initial transplant to inoculate the medium (most likely not required but my buckets see temps in excess of 90° during summer months).

I have 2 pH pens from different manufacturers, pH test strips and the liquid for use with vials via color check. None of the 4 methods correlate. When I was a newbie I chased my tail in circles calibrating/checking/calibrating again.. When I switched to coco hempy from soil, I did check everything as a caution moving to a new medium but it soon became a no-brainer for 6 successive grows.. Now that I'm playing with Mapito, I did check ppm on the intial presoak to minimize shock on transplant. It will probably be the last time for this grow as well. Hempy is what it is...simplicity.
 

Praetorian

Well-Known Member
From what Ive seen ... The best way to get brand expansion/exposure for a nute company is to sponsor a popular grower on web forums like ours. Blue Planet offered certain growers free nutes if they documented their results and bigged-up the brand. Now they have a semi-cult following with growers calling themselves the BPA 'Blue Planet Army' lol :roll:

I dont know about the formula but the 3 part solution are the same colour as GH Flora. lol.
Yeah, seems like folks over on 420mag forum are all over the blue planet nutes...
 

drdank50

Well-Known Member
Defoliation at 21 days flower:



I know this is a debatable topic. Has anyone at W.O.H had luck / bad luck with defoliating at 21/42 days flower?
 

thecoolman

New Member
I am getting ready to switch over to a automated high presure spray (35 psi) drain to waste hempy bato style system and want to use straight perlite as I want a inert media
with 0 cation exchange properties but enough water holding ability to save money not having to spray them every hour. Has any one experimented with the water holding capabilities and performance of different grades of perlite?
 
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