after trying dyna gro im switching back to advanced nutrients 2 part

T

tree king

Well-Known Member
Trich Fiend said:
you got me curios so i just ran the test myself. i used r/o water with a ppm of 6. i ran each test twice using 2ml of parts a & b in 1 liter of water and this is what i got. i used a very accurate syringe to measure the nutes and a measuring pitcher for the water. i also calibrated my hanna growcheck meter in 1500ppm solution beforehand.

sensi grow a & b (2ml each) in 1 liter of water - 926ppm (test 1)
sensi grow a & b (2ml each) in 1 liter of water - 917ppm (test 2)

sensi bloom a & b (2ml each) in 1 liter of water - 809ppm (test 1)
sensi bloom a & b (2ml each) in 1 liter of water - 831ppm (test 2)
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wow so i guess it is a tiny bit more concentrated. i trust the accuracy of your test more then mine i was just basically trying to get in the ballpark in my tests. thanks for taking the measurements its lookin like 10% more concentrated
 
Trich Fiend

Trich Fiend

New Member
i didn't read the whole thread but are you running an under current or rdwc system treeking? that could definitely explain the low ppm levels.
 
T

tree king

Well-Known Member
nuglets said:
i got suspended for 3 days for doing nothing. the admin left a nasty message on my rep wall and they closed my grow journal. sounds like this site is run by some really jealous people.
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i had a feeling something happened i was like where did this dude go? im just glad you didnt get arrested or something lol. nuglets try not to get banned my friend. too many dudes are gettin booted outta here
 
Stonefree69

Stonefree69

Member
I like icmag and gc, but still post here mostly lately.

Also, ppm can be misleading as it's open to a lot of different interpretation. Heard it's better to state EC as that's what
meters typically read out 1st beforte converting. Link w/good info: What is the difference between ppm and EC?
Also: RIU thread search Obviously, it's better to compare apples to apples to ensure there's no nute amount mixups.

Here's the different conversions by country:
USA 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 500 ppm
European 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 640 ppm
Australian 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 700 ppm

So different meters will read:
Hanna, Milwaukee 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 500 ppm
Eutech 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 640 ppm
Truncheon 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 700 ppm

I'm saving up for a Bluelab Truncheon Meter (EC/ppm), Bluelab Combo Meter or a Nutra-Dip Continuous Tri Meter.
Some are a few hundred bucks but many praise these models. Still cheap compared to pro models, which can top a
grand easily.

Also I'm going to try THC Bomb or Big Bang 2 strain, which are touted as very nute tolerant. Also very potent as
well as high yielding. Happy farming! :D
 
T

tree king

Well-Known Member
Stonefree69 said:
I like icmag and gc, but still post here mostly lately.

Also, ppm can be misleading as it's open to a lot of different interpretation. Heard it's better to state EC as that's what
meters typically read out 1st beforte converting. Link w/good info: What is the difference between ppm and EC?
Also: RIU thread search Obviously, it's better to compare apples to apples to ensure there's no nute amount mixups.

Here's the different conversions by country:
USA 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 500 ppm
European 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 640 ppm
Australian 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 700 ppm

So different meters will read:
Hanna, Milwaukee 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 500 ppm
Eutech 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 640 ppm
Truncheon 1 ms/cm (EC 1.0 or CF 10) = 700 ppm

I'm saving up for a Bluelab Truncheon Meter (EC/ppm), Bluelab Combo Meter or a Nutra-Dip Continuous Tri Meter.
Some are a few hundred bucks but many praise these models. Still cheap compared to pro models, which can top a
grand easily.

Also I'm going to try THC Bomb or Big Bang 2 strain, which are touted as very nute tolerant. Also very potent as
well as high yielding. Happy farming! :D
Click to expand...
good point thats why i always say ec x 500. def get the blue lab those tri meters are garbage and ballasts make them go outta wack to the point where they dont even work. the one thing that sucks about blue lab is the ppm goes up in increments of 50 not 10 this is why i just bought a milwaukee mw801 instead
 
nuglets

nuglets

New Member
Yea, but as long as you run the tests with the same meter you get what you are looking. They were trying to prove homebrewer wrong and they did. dyna is not more concentrated. Homebrewer stated several pages ago that dyna was i think 85% more concentrated than advanced. by doing this test they have proved his statements were false and that he has no knowledge as to what he is talking about in regards to this.
 
Stonefree69

Stonefree69

Member
Thanks for the heads up tree king. Speaking of meters, I'm also looking at the
Apogee Quantum SQ light sensor (PAR) Not sure which one to get. PAR meters
can get really expensive too. These are highly recommended by aquarium hobbyists.

It reads PAR, which is what the plants actually use (in light), not foot-candles, lux
or lumens. This way I can compare my Tek T5's w/HID lights.

If you put T5s right on top of your plants the figures come out to about 6,250
lumens/sq ft and 67 watts/sq ft. The watts look good but not the lumens. So a
good light meter will show what plants are getting. I can't even imagine 1 foot away
as the lumens would really drop. Great for early veg anyway, but seems lousy
penetration compared to HID.
 
nuglets

nuglets

New Member
i guess they want me to leave. the took away 2100 rep points from me yesterday. not sure why. no one will explain.
 
T

tree king

Well-Known Member
Stonefree69 said:
Thanks for the heads up tree king. Speaking of meters, I'm also looking at the
Apogee Quantum SQ light sensor (PAR) Not sure which one to get. PAR meters
can get really expensive too. These are highly recommended by aquarium hobbyists.

It reads PAR, which is what the plants actually use (in light), not foot-candles, lux
or lumens. This way I can compare my Tek T5's w/HID lights.

If you put T5s right on top of your plants the figures come out to about 6,250
lumens/sq ft and 67 watts/sq ft. The watts look good but not the lumens. So a
good light meter will show what plants are getting. I can't even imagine 1 foot away
as the lumens would really drop. Great for early veg anyway, but seems lousy
penetration compared to HID.
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my fault i dont know anything about those type of meters. i actually need to get a light meter myself but im just gonna get a foot candle one to measure the strength of light between reflectors so i can find the best one
 
nuglets

nuglets

New Member
crazyhazey said:
why do they fuck with you so much nuglets? thats insane, i never knew they could even take rep.
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i've sent like 4-5 pm's to mods and eve posted a thread about it in toke and talk. they just won't answer. they don't like me cause i tell the truth. put their dirty laundry out for everyone to see.
 
nuglets

nuglets

New Member
hugetom80s said:
Wow, I'm not even going to claim I've read everything posted in the last few days. Some of you guys have way more free time than I do (or don't post during "free time" as the case may be.)

Homebrewer - I'm not going to get into a futile argument with you trying to prove I don't work for AN. You've abundantly demonstrated that your mind can't be changed about anything that relates to Advanced Nutrients. Besides, any classically-educated person knows the futility of proving a negative. Barring the ability to prove a contradicting positive such as where I do work, which obviously raises concerns to safeguarding my identity, it can't be done. And even if I could somehow prove to your satisfaction (if such a quantity of proof even exists) you would/could simply claim that I also worked for AN. It's an argument that is impossible to win for anyone. I could ask you to prove you don't work for Wal-Mart. Short of proving your identity and providing tax forms you can't do it.

The same identity concerns are why I don't post photographs, which makes the idea of any grow journal a little silly. Those who are familiar with how computers work know the lunacy of believing anything, once on the internet, is ever deleted can understand. Until such time as I am personally satisfied it's possible to post a picture that cannot - using any current or future technology - be traced back to me I will continue to err on the side of safety.

So I'm not going to bother launching into a lengthy and fruitless debate on the topic with anyone, least of all someone who's willfully chosen to be immune to reason. The mere fact that you see everything I do in commercial terms, and believe I'm "pushing" products when I rarely ever actually recommend someone buy something and when I do I am more likely to be recommending someone get fewer things than what the actual salesman at the store says they need... well that just proves to me that you view me the way you want to see me and not with any actual clarity.


A very apt observation was made earlier in this thread. If you do a search for Advanced Nutrients on this forum, or for Dyna-Gro, this guy's name turns up a lot. Think about the effort involved to track down and post on every thread that mentions those two nutrients. That's thousands of posts. Definitely not a job I'd want. Then frost that cake with the fact that he's the first one to point fingers and call someone a shill. It doesn't take a Freudian psychologist to form a theory on that. We see in others what lurks within ourselves. The first person to accuse another of cheating is usually a cheater. Liars see liars in everyone they meet. Empathy is nothing more than a projection of our own ego into another person's place and using that to predict how we would react if we were them. So the darkness within ourselves is the darkness we most commonly see in other people, reflected in the mirror of our own ego.

The real tragedy for those suspicious-natured finger-pointers is that it might never occur to the rest of us to suspect them of anything until they bring up the topic. Homebrewer might never have been seen as anything but a confusingly eager AN-hater if he hadn't brought up the topic of being a shill.
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i just have to say this is awesome!! thank you hugetom! perfectly said.
 
Motherhugger

Motherhugger

Well-Known Member
tree king said:
i had a feeling something happened i was like where did this dude go? im just glad you didnt get arrested or something lol. nuglets try not to get banned my friend. too many dudes are gettin booted outta here
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Wow. What an amazing thread to find here. Lots o good info about AN and about special growing situations. Well done.
 
L

Lorinser

Member
I recently started growing, I chose to use Dyna-Gro products because of Homebrewers posts. I ended up running out of foliage-pro and grow, I had to buy some Canna coco a+b to hold me over while I was waiting on my new Dyna-gro products in the mail. Within days of switching to Canna I noticed explosive growth, and a far healthier look. This Canna definately has something in it that my plants love, something they were not getting before. I cant believe the difference. It does seem that the dyna gro was giving very slow growth in veg, now that I have seen what the canna did.

I still want to believe that Dyna-gro is good, because it was definately easy to use, it was Ph stable, highly concentrated, cheap. I will continue to use ProTekt even with the Canna. Maybe I was not using the Dyna Gro optimally, maybe I needed to add something else with it, maybe it isnt well suited to coco growing, even though I added calcium and magnesium.

Im not taking a shot at homeBrewer, or Dynagro, just relaying what happened to me, a rookie medical grower with no previous experience.
 
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