True HP Aero For 2011

Mike Young

Mike Young

Well-Known Member
aerojunkie said:
Mike,

Everything you need to fix your lid problem is at your local Home Depot. Get yourself a piece of FRP and a thinner piece of polystyrene foam 3/4-1". If you have a local foam shop you can actually get a more dense piece, 2 or 3 lb. You can also get the yellow polyurethane sheet as it is thin but very dense. Either way, cut the FRP to size and glue it to the top of your foam with 3M 78 Polystyrene foam adhesive, or you can use expanding polyurethane insulating foam in a can (great stuff). Just be sure to put some gym plates on top of the FRP if you use expanding foam. You'll be amazed how rigid it is especially when your span only looks to be about 24-30" wide. I would also recommend a vapor barrier on the bottom of the foam. You can use plastic visqueen for this, its cheap.
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That's a good idea. I've tossed a few around lately. When you say FRP, is that a formica like product? I'm not familiar with it, that I know of. I may end up going this route. Just wish I'd had a better plan in place before I got started. Oh well.
 
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aerojunkie

Well-Known Member
Mike Young said:
That's a good idea. I've tossed a few around lately. When you say FRP, is that a formica like product? I'm not familiar with it, that I know of. I may end up going this route. Just wish I'd had a better plan in place before I got started. Oh well.
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Fiber (fiberglass) Reinforced Polymer. Its the same stuff restaurants use in the kitchen and service areas to allow a cleanable waterproof surface. One side is smooth and the other is textured and semi-gloss. The reason it works so well is because its very rigid for how thin it is. The textured surface also helps to prevent "hot spots" by diffusing the light from your hood.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100389836/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Here is the sound board foam, its a little more rigid than the polystyrene your using now. The 1/2" sound board is probably equivalent to a 3/4-1" 1lb Polystyrene sheet of the same dimensions.

http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials-Insulation-Sheathings/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbaxx/R-202090237/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

The spray foam is the cheapest way to adhere the two together. Spray it on then smooth it out with a disposable plastic trowel. Just remember to compress the two together to avoid expansion between.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100068117/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

After you drill your penetrations, I recommend sealing the exposed edge of the foam with a silicone or polyurethane.

Let me know if you need anything else.
 
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dickkhead

Active Member
aerojunkie said:
Fiber (fiberglass) Reinforced Polymer. Its the same stuff restaurants use in the kitchen and service areas to allow a cleanable waterproof surface. One side is smooth and the other is textured and semi-gloss. The reason it works so well is because its very rigid for how thin it is. The textured surface also helps to prevent "hot spots" by diffusing the light from your hood.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100389836/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Here is the sound board foam, its a little more rigid than the polystyrene your using now. The 1/2" sound board is probably equivalent to a 3/4-1" 1lb Polystyrene sheet of the same dimensions.

http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials-Insulation-Sheathings/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbaxx/R-202090237/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

The spray foam is the cheapest way to adhere the two together. Spray it on then smooth it out with a disposable plastic trowel. Just remember to compress the two together to avoid expansion between.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100068117/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

After you drill your penetrations, I recommend sealing the exposed edge of the foam with a silicone or polyurethane.

Let me know if you need anything else.
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thats genius im debating on ditching these buckets or using them for veg then going with something bigger for flowering i have 1 20 gallon trash can in place now but im not sure thats big enough after seeing how these roots swell so fast!
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Ester said:
@Trichy Bastard, I would like to know if your still using the 1 micron in-line filter and if it bottlenecked the flow or created any complications? I have enjoyed reading all the informative posts here. Nice thread. Best wishes.
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Sorry this is so late answered, but yes I'm using the 1micron filter. Only change I made was it is now AFTER the pump rather than before... The pump was laboring too hard trying to draw through it, but it can push through it no problem...
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Gees, sorry I missed these questions, had some pc issues, and got very busy with life in general. The throw seems the same, while the spread is the variable, also the black ones that have the largest spray pattern also throw a thicker mist, so it seems the red ones are ideal as they have the best spread while not compromising microns... I believe you can make them work with 2 foot throw, but 1.5 is better. The bio-controls have the best throw, unfortunately you have to pray you'd get less deformed ones than my luck had me get... Biocontrols recently emailed me that they were back in full force, and offered to replace my nozzles for free if I sent them in...
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
dickkhead said:
http://youtu.be/-u_SFnxvUpI
Sorry try this link
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I wanna see- but it says "private" ;) hopfully everyone has the 422 wiring figured out by now, if not I know what was wrong with the wiring.. The timer supply voltage is strictly to the timer, you then apply a seperate power feed (or split off the same wires to the other pins) and the timer and its relay open and close the switch for those secondary wires (if that makes sense).
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Mike Young said:
My bags are 40 gal capacity, believe it or not. My problem is that the lid is 2" thick. The net cup barely comes through the bottom. I flanged around it the best I could, and around the nozzles, but it made little diff. I got one nozzle pointing in, but not enough. I ordered 100' of tubing yesterday, cause I'm sadly using every inch, and its not enough to make any mods. Soon.

Yeah, wtf happened indeed? We're down an amigo, and that shit makes me nervous.
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Sorry man, just life happened... lol... Anyway, was thinking, how about if you installed your misters in the sides of the leaf bag? I think the horizontal spray is better...
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Wow. What a gem this tip is. Combining it with turning the pump vertical has made a huge difference in quantity of mist during a ~ 2 second burst. Yesterday, I replaced my dual head mister with a quad because the 2 farthest plant roots were dry (33g Rubbermaid). After moving the filter I had to extend pause to 4 minutes, as roots were too wet. But will go back to a dual head and 2 secs/2 minutes and monitor. This is one of many reasons why I like the mist head assemblies from Reptile Basics. I can pop them in/out in a < one minute.

Trichy Bastard said:
Sorry this is so late answered, but yes I'm using the 1micron filter. Only change I made was it is now AFTER the pump rather than before... The pump was laboring too hard trying to draw through it, but it can push through it no problem...
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Thepill

Thepill

Member
Trichy. I found the protozoa and bacteria counts were way to high. So I stuck with the simplicity of drip irrigation and DWC. A dedicated tea brewer was necessary. I was going to make it into an inline closed loop, but added a separate reservoir. This freed up the brewer for other rooms and to gave the advantage of selling worm castings teas to hydro shops. The castings I like are of the highest quality. www.yelmworms.com Reason choosing this product is that the owner has assured me the worm food comes from a certified dairy. Meaning no innoculants, pathogens or hormones in the cow shit. Anyway I have been taking soft and hard orders for the Mobile Gardens since I came back from SD. I also was approached from a major chain store for organic on demand, u-pick type of growing for retail. So we need to talk soon. Pill
 

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dickkhead

Active Member
ik your prob thinking the W/D cycles are long. the kid from supreme hydro was saying to run them 1 min on 2 off which i thought was crazy cause it started growing a tap route and no fuzzies at all. and after reading petfloras ICMAG thread i learned alot cause he has a similar set up. and the pump he sold me was set at 60 psi, so today i turned it up to 80 as high as it will go. they seem to be happy so thats all that matters for now. Ill costume the flowering tent with 8800 pump, acc, RV, Press switch, press reg, solenoid heads and the 422 flip flop BABYYYYY!!! some tru HP AERO none of this half ASS im a snake sales man supreme hydro 60 PSI SHIT!!!
 
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r0m30

Active Member
dickkhead said:
the pressure switch that comes with the aquatec are you guys using that or is there a better one i should use?
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Not sure what you mean by "comes with". They are separately orderable parts. I'm using the PSW280 and so far it hasn't failed. It will be a while before I have any real long term reliability data.
 
Trichy Bastard

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
dickkhead said:
the pressure switch that comes with the aquatec are you guys using that or is there a better one i should use?
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Mech was happy with his, but Atomizer and tree farmer say it's better to get an external switch that will be more precise and reliable. I say try it and see if you think you need something more. I'm happy with the 20$ switch I found, for the money its nice having a smaller deadband than what the built in switch has...
-r0m, I beleive some models include the switch...
 
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