Light to foliage remake - The sticky is retarded.

TinyGrow

Active Member
Hey guys,

Just wanted to stop in and give you all my information on growing with cfls. I just finished my first CFL harvest and then saw the "light to foliage" sticky post and was kind-of outraged.

I want everyone to read very carefully, and feel free to debate anything you feel necessary!


As per the sticky post, the lights should remain 1" from each exterior piece of foliage when growing with CFL's. Wrong. Plants grow, they grow toward light at a rapid rate, ESPECIALLY when put into 12/12 or beginner sprouts. When you put a CFL 1" from the plant you are taking a SERIOUS risk not only for your plant but for your life.

Let me explain.

I tried the whole 1" away technique and almost ruined my entire crop early.. I placed my bulbs an inch away from the top 4 fan leaves and left them be for the day as I went to work. I came home from work, took a shower - came back in and found that the fan leaves were intertwined in the bulbs (3 pointer leaves sticking through it). Immediately I removed the fan leaves but it was too late - the growth was 100% brown/blackish crispy and dead.

I agree with the fact that lighting should be close to the plant but there are MANY ways to solve this issue so that you can comfortably keep the lights at a 2-3" distance away at all times.

Step 1: Get a cheap roll of Mylar at your local dollar store OR home depot if your a baller.

Step 2: Find an intact aluminum can (empty of course) and use a can opener on the top end.
**Be very careful, the can will be extremely sharp and these next steps can be very dangerous if you fiddle a lot or have problems keeping a steady hand.**

1.jpg
2.jpg

3.jpg
Step 3. Flip the can over, and use the can opener on the BOTTOM of the can. By the bottom i mean the INSIDE of the "can stand" loop, the bottom hole will NOT be as big as the top of the can.
4.jpg
5.jpg
Step 4: Slice the can from top to bottom directly in half using a straight razor or a pair of sharp strong scissors. Do not cut all the way through on EITHER SIDE - leave about a half inch to work with!
6.jpg
7.jpg

8.jpg
9.jpg
Step 5: Apply the mylar to the inside of the can with spray glue adhesive, make sure the glue you use can withstand heat when dry. Press the mylar firmly in place so there are no ripples and uneven spots. Trip the mylar to the edge of the can and place a tiny strip of electrical tape on the lip of the can/mylar to cover the sharp edge and hold the mylar down on the sides.

11.jpg
12.jpg
Step 6, With a hole puncher or knife or whatever u poke with, punch 4-8 holes towards the BOTTOM ( picture the can upright ) on the half pipe shell. You should have something that looks similar to this:
13.jpg14.jpg15.jpg

Anyway guys its taken me a while to document doing all of that, uplaod the pics and organize this little post.

The entire thing should cost you about 2 bucks per light and thats ONLY if you use monster cans lol you can easily do this with cheaper coke or pepsi cans and save a bunch of money.

This method of CFL lighting allows you to place the light within 2-5" of the plant and still be able to effectively produce massive buds.

If anybody has any questions or comments feel free to ask. My entire setup has these on them I removed the to show you guys the diff in the pic. My babies are only a couple weeks old and are over 3 feet tall flowering.

Whoever says you CANT grow big healthy stinky nuggets with CFLs is a retard and probably trying to misinform you. There are ways to go about certain things and just because one is too lazy to think of them doesnt mean they dont exist.

PS: As a side note this is what the comparison pic looks like, check my baby in the back - 5" away CFL healthy as a fucking horse.

16.jpg


*EDITT* I was asked via PM by multiple people to explain the actual purposes of what this is for and what everything does so here goes...

The aluminum can is nothing but the structure for which you will make the CFL reflector. The hole cut in the top of the can is nearly a perfect fit for a regular sized 100w equiv. cfl. When you cut the can into a half pipe you create the "reflector base" where you then will apply the reflective Mylar strips (on the inside of course). After the mylar is applied you want to secure the edges with gorrilla tape or somethign that can withstand heat. Turn it over (so you are looking at the inside where the bulb will go) and at the base of the reflector poke 4-8 holes for HEAT VENTILATION... I was specifically asked why the holes are necessary and its for dispersing heat, if you dont do it your bulb will get so hot it will probably just fry. After that you want to clip the edges to create a { looking curve to broaden the reflection of the light as you please.

Seperate question : How did you get the socket to hold the light without tape. Okay this is going to be complicated to explain but I will try. You place the bulb base into the hole and from the bottom up ** HOLDING EVERYTHING VERY SECURELY AS TO NOT SLICE UR SHIT OPEN** push up the aluminum from the bottom up on bothsides so it points at the front, you then fold one end of the "point" in and press it shut. This will create more of a hold. You then take a piece of tape and wrap it around the rough area to #1 get rid of the shit that cuts you #2 thicken the ridge so the bulb base fits tighter.

Any other questions let me know!

Request a sticky! In place of the other one that fails!
 

TinyGrow

Active Member
No problem bro lol I just got really upset when I saw that foliage post. 1" away my ass hole... If u use a reflector u can be a safe distance and still have the same if not better light quality. Just make sure u use Mylar cuz foil doesnt reflect the proper light spectrums or some shit.
 

TinyGrow

Active Member
Oh and wow, I completely skipped a step.

Although you guys can sure as shit see it from the final pics - you have to snip about a half inch along the sides and bow out the edges if you want more of a range of light reflection. If you perfer focused lighting then keep it without the cuts though!

:)
 

TinyGrow

Active Member
Thanks DSB!

The thought itself wasnt original. I saw a youtube video that did something similar to this but they did some dumb amateur shit that would blew the bulb out after 12 hours of use. I figured I would try out some new shit and this ones work - so far the bulbs have been running from seedling to harvest on 1 alrdy, going on #2.
 

TinyGrow

Active Member
Thanks to everyone whos posted a response! Please +rep if you feel this is worth it =D I could use it!
 

xtcxlocstax

Active Member
Another perfect can to use is a Arizona tea/juice can, they sell them at any corner store(in USA) for 99 cents and there also way bigger then a monster can...
 
I wouldnt call the sticky "retarded" as the author of that thread published a well known book. If you're going to place bulbs 1" from your plants, common sense would tell you that you need to check on them often to rearrange your lights. If you cant, put them a little further away.

Your reflector idea is inventive though and I give you props for that
 

TinyGrow

Active Member
Book or not, I dont care. The person most likely never grew or only grew once with CFL's and must not have liked them. I am not going to get into a debate about that poster's credentials I dont know him nor would I care to. The fact remains its wrong and misleading. And if common sense tells you to put the lights further than an inch away from the plant than why doesnt common sense tell the author of a published book how to correctly inform the people hes "teaching"?

*EDIT* PS: If you're really daring enough to put the cfls 1 inch from each fan leaf by all means go ahead. If you want to check on your grow room 24x a day, by all means put the light 1" from the plant.

If you are a hard working 9-5 professional who works above and beyond to get the job done and put food on the table and doesnt have a full 3-5 months of down time to stare at his plants and baby them to the point of no return - Use my method, simply spend 30 mins crafting a couple of these and safely put your light 3-5" away with no negative effects.
 

TinyGrow

Active Member
Thanks Foolet, you are absolutely correct.

I tried to go about this in a civil way and was not only ignored by admins but also the author of the sticky post. I cant stress this enough, the author is WRONG, and is taking a serious chance growing the way he is growing.

When you put a bulb of any sort 1" from a plant you have MANY things to worry about. I have done this before with very little success. I dont sit at home all day and watch my plants, I have a job, I have a family, I have friends. I cannot sit in my grow room and move my CFL light up every hour so it doesnt burn the fan leaves. IF YOU HAVE THE TIME TO WATCH YOUR PLANTS FOR 3-4 MONTHS EVERY HOUR ON THE HOUR - the PLEASE disregard my post and listen to the "author" of the CFL book.

If you work your ass off and spend more time outside of the house than in it, pay attention to what I am telling you because not only is it the RIGHT WAY to go about doing this, but it is a lot SAFER than what home boy is telling you guys to do.

I dont bullshit people, its not worth it. Misinformation or incomplete thoughts ruin this world. If I am going to tell you how to grow, I am going to go over A to Z - because B K and Y aren't enough points to make you fully understand my methods. Thats why I posted this guide, thats also why I am accepting any PM's from CFL growers who want REAL advice from somebody who DOES IT RIGHT.....



The author's way: 1 bulb, per fan leaf, per plant. | Large plant = 20-40 fan leaves = 20-40 bulbs per plant.
m Set up each light bulb 1" away from each fan leaf and raise as neccessary.


My way: 4 bulbs per plant, 2 inter proximal bulbs. | Large plant = 20-40 fan leaves = 4 bulbs per plant 2 inter proximal bulbs (inbetween each plant).
Follow my guide, quickly and easily craft a couple mylar reflectors, install them, fix them to the bulb, position them 2-5" away from the TOP OF THE PLANT (not each leaf!) and let it go.


I am not sitting here trying to sound like a dick head, I am helping all of you out. His way is for a disabled person who sits at home all day, my way is for a hard working individual who doesnt have the time to move his lights up an inch every hour of the day....

Pics incoming if my 3-5" away reflector grow. Youll see.
 

TinyGrow

Active Member
IMG00576-20110911-1102.jpgIMG00584-20110915-1002.jpgIMG00591-20110916-1205.jpgThe picture of the harvest was off of a BARELY 3 foot tall plant that I 12/12'd from SEED with the lighting I explained in my posts........
 

TinyGrow

Active Member
good info,but most,if not all of this info, is in the sticky.

No, its not in the sticky, the information is buried on page 60+ from ME or some other concerned CFL grower posting it to his retarded thread....

The information here is legit and explained very simply and to the point - dude is wrong and if you wanna grow like that feel free, if u wanna grow monsters like mine that can harvest 1oz + off of a 2 1/2 foot 12/12 from seed plant - follow my guide.





THE OFFICIAL STICKY POST #1 - I can not emphasize enough the importance for LIGHT proximity to the PLANT.

IF You want a big harvest using CFLS.. there should be a CFL within 1 inch of EVERY piece of exterior foliage of the plant!!

do you understand!!!!

iloveyou

CANNABIS grows FAST.... you will need to adjust the lights or adjust the plant daily.


Daily??? No you need to move it once every 2 hours or your plant is obviously stunted.


Oh and PS: The post right after this one replies " I dont understand, could you give us an example? " lol...........
 
Top