Well N A, The Tankless Water Heater is the Bomb!

[panhead]

Aren't there some N02 and monoxide issues here?

No,they burn very clean,ive been running the same type co2 system for about 3 years now with zero problems & my testers allways show acceptable levels.

I posted this exact thread about 2 or 3 yrs ago & fdd2blk jumped in saying he should ban me or shut down the thread beacuse i was dangerous,im not sure which but as soon as he started freaking out all the groupies jumped in,i got so damn tired of trying to get those guys to stop panicing & read the msds sheets before he proclaim something dangerous i said fuk it & killed the thread & gave up trying to help anybody.

Its a great system & does the exact same job as a hydro unit only it dont make your nuts ache from price gouge.

For the op,great job man.

 

[legallyflying]

Well props to you panhead for seeing the light way ahead of me. I think I actually posted something addressing the fact that modern burners output 99.9% co2.

 

[guy incognito]

I like the loop design! Kudos whoever thought of that! Im guessing you are keeping all the loop pumps and operation separate from the gen operation I hope. Now you can have a small rez upstairs!
Now dont do all that without getting the right inline pump....

So what size joists do you got going on? I guess they were small so youre going through with the loop idea?

High school grad or GED those are some perty computer graphic pictures! I wish i could do that!

I never checked the joists. Keeping the water upstairs is just a bad idea. The area where they would be kept is probably 100* on hot summer days, so in order to keep it cool I would need massive amounts of water. My entire goal was to add co2 during the hottest part of the year because I am upstairs and having difficulty keeping the temps down, so I wanted the co2 so I could raise my operating temp by 10* or so without stressing the plants too much. And if I still couldnt control the heat and it spiked to 100*F I figured it wouldn't be as stressful for them (as opposed to no co2 supplementation). Keeping the water upstairs kind of defeats the purpose of a water cooled unit because I wouldn't be removing any heat. I might as well just go with a regular burner if i'm not going to remove the heat and dissipate it somewhere outside the grow room.

I was planning on keeping the loop separate from the gen. The loop is strictly to cycle water through the upstairs res and bring the heat down to the basement. I'm not sure how much it will run, but I was thinking of putting it on a timer approx the same time as my lights (the co2 gen is only turned on during lights on), so it would constantly circulate water any time the co2 might turn on.

 

[legallyflying]

For what it is worth, while co2 augmentation will allow you to run higher temps, the absolute ceiling is going to be around 90. This is especially true in the latter stages of flowering. In my experience high temps in the latter weeks can have aweful effects on the buds. My jack Herrer for super fluffy. The other strains not so much, but the jack came out horrible. If your growing in an attic you can reduce heat substantially by installing a radiant heat barrier to the bottom of your roof rafters. It's a thin roll of silver material that will redlect back heat from your roof shingles.
Just a thought.

 

[guy incognito]

Hmm. I was under the impression co2 supplemented room at 100* would be better than a non enriched room at 100*. Neither room would be ideal, but the enriched room would be closer to it's target temperature.

 

[907]

Right on PANHEAD, your thread is where I got the idea. Thanks again. Peace 907

 

[Wolverine97]

How do I know how much my floor can support? 2 55-gallon barrels will be a lot of weight. 110 gallons X 8.34 lb/gal = 917.4 pounds of water on my second floor. That sounds like a disaster waiting to happen

Most floor systems are designed to carry 60 psf (pounds per square foot), but that's every square foot. What's the diameter of your res?

 

[guy incognito]

Most floor systems are designed to carry 60 psf (pounds per square foot), but that's every square foot. What's the diameter of your res?

Don't have them yet, but i'm no longer putting it upstairs. I'm going to go with the plan in post #257. I'm picking up some 55 gallon barrels off craigslist tonight. I will probably just pick up a cheap pump from lowes or home depot and set it up as planned but with only a single 55 gallon barrel in the basement, then I will add more barrels if they are needed to cool it.

 

[Wolverine97]

Yeah, I saw that after I replied... Good luck with everything, hope you get it sorted out.

 

[budleydoright]

GI, don't forget, these still remove much of the heat of the burner with hot water. the water doesn't have to be 65F to be effective. Also if you are just looking for seasonal relief, you could run drain to waste. If that's too wastfull for your tastes, drain to a 55g barrell and water your yard or wash your laundry with the discharged water. I couldn't imagine the water use would be that high.

 

[Joedank]

This is sick gonna find one today!

 

[guy incognito]

Or I could just get a much better pump.

http://www.pumps-in-stock.com/little_giant_pump_pps-1.html

3/8 / 3/4", 360 GPH, 1/10 HP, 115V, residential grade utility pump.

This lightweight portable transfer pump has a self-priming, siphon-like action that can be used to empty swimming pool covers, waterbeds, drain water heaters or aquariums, pump out a basement, transfer water to an RV, pump boat bilges, pump out stock tanks, and in just about any other application where water needs to be transferred. Removes water down to 1/8" (3.2 mm). Intermittent duty is 15 minutes on 45 minutes off.

The pump is dual threaded with both 3/8" FNPT and 3/4" GHT (Garden Hose Thread) intake and discharge - which means you can EITHER screw a 3/8 inch mail pipe thread inside the connectors on the pump OR a 3/4 inch garden hose over the outside of the pump's connectors.

residential grade
360 gallons per hour (1,350 liters)
Power: 1/10 HP (0.075 kw)
Non-submersible, Self-priming
UL/CSA listed
12 month warranty
Buna-N impeller
6 ft power cable (2 m)
115V single phase
1.6 Amps while running
Thermal overload protection: yes
Total head: 48 ft (14 m)
3.4" high (8 cm)
4" wide (10 cm)
6.7" long (17 cm)
Weight: 8.4 lbs (3.8 kg)
thermal overload protection: yes

I think this might have enough lift to get up there. Even at 30 feet I will be getting at a minimum 150 gallons/hour (2.5 gal/min) [9.35 L/min]

Max head lift (48 feet) - 30 feet (actual vertical distance is only 20 or 21 feet) leaves at least another 18 feet of head. 18 feet / 2.31 = 7.8 psi minimum.

The heater manual says 5 psi is the minimum startup water pressure.

 

[boomdawg]

I didnt see any heat rating... probably want to make sure it will at least handle 125, or 150 for yours, if you havent checked already.....

 

[Wolverine97]

edit: oops

 

[Wolverine97]

GI, don't forget, these still remove much of the heat of the burner with hot water. the water doesn't have to be 65F to be effective. Also if you are just looking for seasonal relief, you could run drain to waste. If that's too wastfull for your tastes, drain to a 55g barrell and water your yard or wash your laundry with the discharged water. I couldn't imagine the water use would be that high.

You must not be paying attention then...

 

[guy incognito]

I didnt see any heat rating... probably want to make sure it will at least handle 125, or 150 for yours, if you havent checked already.....

I have 5 55 gallon barrels. If this pump, or this pump in conjunction with my current pump, will get it from my basement to my heater with adequate pressure then I will put bulkhead fittings on my barrels and link as many as needed together to control heat. All 5 barrels linked together in my basement would give me a total res size of 275 gallons. Heat should not be an issue with a res that size.

 

[legallyflying]

If you set this system up in a drain to waste configuration you will burn in hell.

It would be a criminal amount of water waste.

 

[guy incognito]

No drain to waste.

Does anyone have any experience with an inline transfer pump? Much higher head rating, but much lower flow rate. Can they be used together? Will 1400 gph from my current pump do anything to an inline pump rated for 300 gph? Will the inline pump add anything if water is already flowing through it faster than it can pump? I would hate to buy a second pump and not have the system work.

 

[boomdawg]

IG, Ok then your heat issues should be handled with all those rezz's. Dont know what I was thinking.
If Im reading correctly you are wondering about combining the 2 different kind of pumps or if they will work together? I really dont know. My inline works great by itself with 6' of head. But stand by for complications when you mix it up. you may skate though...
Yeah drain to waste is a waste. I think Budley was just lettting you know of other options that were mentioned earlier in the thread that you might have forgotten or not known. Were going to hell anyway but if you drain to waste we all go to hell here sooner.

 

[Tommytwotone]

a standard 4 family house hold uses 400 gallons of water a day and this unit probably uses less than a hundred gallons in any one of our many grows. To balance and justify the drain to waste water usage I have decided for me and all of my 4 roommates to shower together. is this an acceptable less wasteful solution?