Club 600
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curious old fart
Well-Known Member
Flushing is not a requirement, but an option and you really can't flush soil.
I flushed on my first grow (Hempy style) and never since. The biggest difference in taste has been going to living soil and just watering which has given a smoother smoke and in one case produced a plant that I have grown before and was very tasty but I still can't identify what strain it was as I lost the label. and the taste was new.
cof
I flushed on my first grow (Hempy style) and never since. The biggest difference in taste has been going to living soil and just watering which has given a smoother smoke and in one case produced a plant that I have grown before and was very tasty but I still can't identify what strain it was as I lost the label. and the taste was new.
cof
stinkbudd1
Well-Known Member
You could prob get some decent pic's if you also take some with the hps or whatever light you are using are off or at least remove the plants before shooting..if you camera has a flouresent setting turn it on and the pic's will have a truer look as well..
curious old fart
Well-Known Member
Here's a cut and paste from sannie
Soil is a natural product, consistent of different organic components, which can be fitted to the specific needs of our personal cultivation. The correct choice of medium and supplements ensures the best start for growers. Supplements include soil mixes and irrigations. Using soil means considering the options of mixing yourselves or using prepared mixed soil. It is important to pay attention to the following aspects; the level of fertilization, the use of potential extra organic supplements, the use of well aired soil and naturally the costs. Potential extra organic supplements include worm fertilizer, guano, bone-dust, blood meal, fungus, bacterium, etc
Creating an active soil system is fairly simple once the compilation of your soil is determined. The soil system will already be activated by irrigation of your soil. Unfortunately is the mixture of soil insufficient to maintain an optimal working active soil system throughout the entire cycle. The addition of mycorrhiza and bacterium benefit the mechanisms of the agro ecosystem, your active soil system to last an entire cycle.
A proper working active soil system will improve the applicable control during a cycle and will enhance the quality of your produce. The use of substratum has a large impact upon the market of cannabis, and represents the opposite of Sannies beliefs. The use of substratum enables only minimal biological activity (active soil system) and is in case stone wool is used totally absent. The use of substratum has no precautionary effect because it lacks positive organisms. The unhindered unfavorable organisms can eventually lead to a negative active soil system. In this regard every illness of the plant can be considered to be the consequence of a disturbed balance of your soil.
The use of pesticides or additional (chemical) fertilizers only fights the symptoms of illnesses and will not prevent the risk of other diseases. Thus far the available pesticides and fertilizers have not been able to ban any form of illness. Instead nowadays growers are facing a plurality of problems with their crops. These problems should not be met with mentioned means but should be restrained by adding the correct bacterium and fungus. The addition of fungus will establish a symbiotic relation with the plants. The mycorrhiza will provide the plants with support in extracting minerals from the soil in exchange for sugar secreted by the roots. The mycorrhizas will create and establish new colonies will extend alongside the entire root system. The microscopic magnitude of these fungus colonies will bear no problems. The total length of established colonies can develop several kilometers.
In comparison, the roots of in average 0, 2 mm are still about eighty times larger in comparison to the diameter of the fungus colonies, and therefore not able to form an equally delicate system.
The absence of mycorrhiza colonies will lead to only 10 % use for root development of the available soil capacity (average lifespan of 6 weeks). This means a shocking 90 % of the soils minerals and water will be left untouched.
The development of your plants is sizable influenced by the active soil system. The active soil system needs to extract the necessary organic elements for the development of your plants. Besides this basic functionality mycorrhiza contains more advantages. Bacterium and fungus invert the organic elements into nutrients for the plants, but also feed of these inverted nutrients. The consummation of the bacterium and fungus will release bonded nutrients. The positive effects of a good working active soil system will lead to higher yields and improved quality of your crops.
A good working active soil system is especially advantageous in managing the available nutrients of your soil. An active soil system ensures the availability of the requested nutrients. This is contrary to direct (chemical) nourishment management, depending on the growers judgement of the accurate requested nutrients. It is not hard to imagine the latter creates common apparent problems for growers. Creating a good working active soil system is easier and more efficient, because it enables the plants to absorb the necessarary nutrients.
Using this principal, I amend a good quality bag soil with Bio-Tone (for the bacterium and mycorrhiza), lime, worm casings and perlite and just water and think I finally have my garden dialed in. I have re-potted problem plants into this medium and healed their ills and have the healthiest garden of all of my indoor grows.
cof
Soil is a natural product, consistent of different organic components, which can be fitted to the specific needs of our personal cultivation. The correct choice of medium and supplements ensures the best start for growers. Supplements include soil mixes and irrigations. Using soil means considering the options of mixing yourselves or using prepared mixed soil. It is important to pay attention to the following aspects; the level of fertilization, the use of potential extra organic supplements, the use of well aired soil and naturally the costs. Potential extra organic supplements include worm fertilizer, guano, bone-dust, blood meal, fungus, bacterium, etc
Creating an active soil system is fairly simple once the compilation of your soil is determined. The soil system will already be activated by irrigation of your soil. Unfortunately is the mixture of soil insufficient to maintain an optimal working active soil system throughout the entire cycle. The addition of mycorrhiza and bacterium benefit the mechanisms of the agro ecosystem, your active soil system to last an entire cycle.
A proper working active soil system will improve the applicable control during a cycle and will enhance the quality of your produce. The use of substratum has a large impact upon the market of cannabis, and represents the opposite of Sannies beliefs. The use of substratum enables only minimal biological activity (active soil system) and is in case stone wool is used totally absent. The use of substratum has no precautionary effect because it lacks positive organisms. The unhindered unfavorable organisms can eventually lead to a negative active soil system. In this regard every illness of the plant can be considered to be the consequence of a disturbed balance of your soil.
The use of pesticides or additional (chemical) fertilizers only fights the symptoms of illnesses and will not prevent the risk of other diseases. Thus far the available pesticides and fertilizers have not been able to ban any form of illness. Instead nowadays growers are facing a plurality of problems with their crops. These problems should not be met with mentioned means but should be restrained by adding the correct bacterium and fungus. The addition of fungus will establish a symbiotic relation with the plants. The mycorrhiza will provide the plants with support in extracting minerals from the soil in exchange for sugar secreted by the roots. The mycorrhizas will create and establish new colonies will extend alongside the entire root system. The microscopic magnitude of these fungus colonies will bear no problems. The total length of established colonies can develop several kilometers.
In comparison, the roots of in average 0, 2 mm are still about eighty times larger in comparison to the diameter of the fungus colonies, and therefore not able to form an equally delicate system.
The absence of mycorrhiza colonies will lead to only 10 % use for root development of the available soil capacity (average lifespan of 6 weeks). This means a shocking 90 % of the soils minerals and water will be left untouched.
The development of your plants is sizable influenced by the active soil system. The active soil system needs to extract the necessary organic elements for the development of your plants. Besides this basic functionality mycorrhiza contains more advantages. Bacterium and fungus invert the organic elements into nutrients for the plants, but also feed of these inverted nutrients. The consummation of the bacterium and fungus will release bonded nutrients. The positive effects of a good working active soil system will lead to higher yields and improved quality of your crops.
A good working active soil system is especially advantageous in managing the available nutrients of your soil. An active soil system ensures the availability of the requested nutrients. This is contrary to direct (chemical) nourishment management, depending on the growers judgement of the accurate requested nutrients. It is not hard to imagine the latter creates common apparent problems for growers. Creating a good working active soil system is easier and more efficient, because it enables the plants to absorb the necessarary nutrients.
Using this principal, I amend a good quality bag soil with Bio-Tone (for the bacterium and mycorrhiza), lime, worm casings and perlite and just water and think I finally have my garden dialed in. I have re-potted problem plants into this medium and healed their ills and have the healthiest garden of all of my indoor grows.
cof
curious old fart
Well-Known Member
This style of growing is using the kis principal-keep it simple method that gives good healthy yields without having to support the chemical manufacture's. My scotch-irish heritage is always looking for a cheaper, more efficent way to accomplish my goal.
cof
cof
whodatnation
Well-Known Member
I think a flush is always necessary when using synthetic nutes, no matter what medium, but flushing time will depend on what medium one is using...
And Im sure this will help clear things up for you ~
And now for some more good tips...
Organic pH issues
I hear a lot of people asking or talking about the pH of their organic soil mix or organic nute solution and how they might correct or adjust it. pH in organics is not an issue like it is in synthetic growing.
The best place to settle the pH issues in organics is within the grow medium. A medium rich in humates (humus) is the place to start. Humates work to "buffer" the pH of organic mediums and the nutes you pour (or mix) into it.
Humates come from compost, worm castings and bottled humus. If you use a peat based medum, use dolomite lime to raise the pH of the acidic peat. Dolomite should be used in any soil or soiless medium to provide magnesium and calcium. But since we are talking about pH here, I'll mention dolomite lime's pH correction benefits.
A medium of coir has a pH near neutral (or 7.0). But humates are still neded to allow uptake of organic nutrients that are outside a near neutral pH range.
With an active medium rich in humates you can pour in nutes like Pure Blend Pro, Earth Juice and guano teas way outside the optimum pH range without worry. The humus will allow the nutes to be taken up through the roots, even at such an extreme pH reading.
So throw those pH meters away folks and enjoy the ease and safety of organic gardening.
Chlorine tap water
Just a word of caution for you organic heads out there...
If you are tapped onto a municipal water supply that uses chlorine to kill bacteria in the water, it'll do the same thing to the bacteria (microherd) in your organic food source.
Always bubble your municipal water in an open container (5 gallon bucket) for 24 hours before adding ANYTHING organic to it.
Flushing
There is absolutely no reason to "flush" organic nute solutions from your soil mix. In an organic grow, the plants don't take up the organic nutes (guano, bone, blood or kelp). The bacteria eat the organic nutes and excrete food that the plant can feed off of. So the organic nutes don't need to be flushed because they never enter the plant. And besides, meals like kelp, bone and blood along with worm castings and dolomite can't be flushed from your soil mix anyway. If you use guano and seaweed, try using plain water or worm casting tea for your last watering or two so the plant can use up what's left in the soil. But drowning your soil with water isn't necessary.
Burn1
stinkbudd1
Well-Known Member
This is great info caught my attention here as well so let me get this right COF you do not use any nutrients or did i miss something? and if i get a very good soil and add the following ( (for the bacterium and mycorrhiza), lime, worm casings and perlite) to it i will have a really good set up going..Im doing something like this now but i am not familiar with the ( bacterium and mycorrhiza) part.. i think it says these are important for the plant to be able to use the max amount of the soils nutrient to promote root growth and over all plant health is this it?
stinkbudd1
Well-Known Member
Botanicare is synthetic isnt it and they say not to flush on the feeding chart they also say do not ph your water as the nutrients will do this naturally what the fuck could i be messing my plants up going with this BS on the bottle...
stinkbudd1
Well-Known Member
My bad 600 club im moving to fast tonight the nute im using are cutting edge solution..not Botanicare...
whodatnation
Well-Known Member
I would go with a sterile medium next time then... as far as I know synthetics and organics dont mix at all, one or the other... I may be missing something tho.
Sinkbud if you are up for it ~ this guy know his sh!t....
https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-how-breed-your-own-beneficial.html
Edit: I definitely missed something lol, Im not sure about soil but the thread I posted uses organic tea in synthetic DWC systems to kill slime and keep those bad things away.. but not to feed the plants, only to protect them Im guessing. Anywho
peeps.
curious old fart
Well-Known Member
I live in poultry country and fresh waste is waaaay to hot. It's best used in a compost to allow it to decompose and create the needed humus.
I have over 30 tons a month available (major producer has a vast overload and is looking for answers) and I'm trying to figure out a way to process it cheaply.
cof
stinkbudd1
Well-Known Member
Right on whodat, im heading that way this is what ive been following to the tee and still have trouble with early leaf yellowing and what seems like just plant not getting enought out of its medum or nutrients.also as you can see what it says about PH balancing and flushing...
Show: Three Part Nutrients Nutrient Additives pH, EC, PPM Light Hours, Duration of Cycle
Three Part Nutrients
Plant Stage
MicroBloomGrowDrain to Waste Systems
Using Coco Coir, Rock Wool, Hydro Rock, or 100% SoilCuttings Rooted5 ml5 ml10 mlVegitative Mix5 ml5 ml10 mlTransition Mix5 ml10 ml5 mlBloom Mix5 ml15 ml0 mlOptional Flush2 ml5 ml0 mlRecirculating Systems
Using Coco Coir, Rock Wool, Hydro Rock, etcCuttings Rooted5 ml5 ml10 mlVegitative Mix8 ml5 ml15 mlTransition Mix8 ml15 ml5 mlBloom Mix8 ml20 ml0 mlOptional Flush4 ml10 ml0 ml
Foliar Spray MixVegitative Cycle / Rooted CuttingsN/AN/A2.5 mlFor Cal-Mag SolutionN/AN/A2.5 mlFor Low-Light Situations or Light DeprivationN/AN/A2.5 mlMeasurements in millileters per gallon Additives
** Scroll Down for an Important Note
on pH Adjustment and Plant Amp **
Plant Stage
Plant AmpUncle John's BlendMag AmpedDrain to Waste Systems
Using Coco Coir, Rock Wool, Hydro Rock, or 100% SoilCuttings Rooted10 ml10 ml2 mlVegitative Mix10 ml10 ml2 mlTransition Mix10 ml10 ml2 mlBloom Mix10 ml10 ml5 mlOptional Flush10 ml10 ml0 mlRecirculating Systems
Using Coco Coir, Rock Wool, Hydro Rock, etcCuttings Rooted10 ml10 ml2 mlVegitative Mix10 ml10 ml2 mlTransition Mix10 ml10 ml2 mlBloom Mix10 ml10 ml5 mlOptional Flush10 ml10 ml0 ml
Foliar Spray MixVegitative Cycle / Rooted Cuttings10100 mlFor Cal-Mag Solution1002.5 mlFor Low-Light Situations or Light Deprivation005 mlMeasurements in millileters per gallon** NOTE ** Plant Amp™ contains Organic Acids which cause a temporary low pH reading. Do not adjust pH up. The pH will rise naturally as the plant uptakes the chelated calcium in one or two days
Show: Three Part Nutrients Nutrient Additives pH, EC, PPM Light Hours, Duration of Cycle
Using Coco Coir, Rock Wool, Hydro Rock, or 100% SoilCuttings Rooted5 ml5 ml10 mlVegitative Mix5 ml5 ml10 mlTransition Mix5 ml10 ml5 mlBloom Mix5 ml15 ml0 mlOptional Flush2 ml5 ml0 mlRecirculating Systems
Using Coco Coir, Rock Wool, Hydro Rock, etcCuttings Rooted5 ml5 ml10 mlVegitative Mix8 ml5 ml15 mlTransition Mix8 ml15 ml5 mlBloom Mix8 ml20 ml0 mlOptional Flush4 ml10 ml0 ml
on pH Adjustment and Plant Amp **
Using Coco Coir, Rock Wool, Hydro Rock, or 100% SoilCuttings Rooted10 ml10 ml2 mlVegitative Mix10 ml10 ml2 mlTransition Mix10 ml10 ml2 mlBloom Mix10 ml10 ml5 mlOptional Flush10 ml10 ml0 mlRecirculating Systems
Using Coco Coir, Rock Wool, Hydro Rock, etcCuttings Rooted10 ml10 ml2 mlVegitative Mix10 ml10 ml2 mlTransition Mix10 ml10 ml2 mlBloom Mix10 ml10 ml5 mlOptional Flush10 ml10 ml0 ml
curious old fart
Well-Known Member
You right, and I am not adding any nutrients. There's usually enough in a good mix to last thru a grow.
I'm using Bio-tone by Espoma. If your in the U.S. you can go to their website and put in your zip and find the nearest dealer. I bought the first bag at Lowe's.
cof
bassman999
Well-Known Member
stoner for you, I forgot you did post pics...lol