Leaf Edges Turning Purple & Leafs Folding? (pics)

Pliffy

Member
Im growing using 4 30W cfls (on nice days i put them in the sunshine), in MG soil with perlite and no nutes added yet. I use a PH test kit (where you test the water in a vial with a test solution), and i know its gotta be shitty... But anyhow i try to ph to 6.5 as best i can but havent been seeming to get it right yet... Iv been trying to fine tune it recently and i think theyre getting better but they still look like shit lol.

Whats the problem with this plant? Any suggestions?! Also, note the leafs folding up?




 

sparkafire

Well-Known Member
Dude start to feed them!! Get a spray bottle and folar spray until you get them back to normal. You have a potassium deficiancy big time. No worries though it wont kill them if you take care of it soon.
 

Pliffy

Member
I figured i wouldn't have to add neuts for a while because MG already has neuts in the soil doesn't it? You dont think itll burn them to folar spray with neuts?
 

sparkafire

Well-Known Member
Not if you mix it according to the directions on the bottle. Do you know what you will be using yet? For this a blooming nute with high Potasium would be in order but really any nute will work mixed properly. In this case you need to read the plants and what they are telling you and right now they are screaming I NEED POTASSIUM PLEASE! LOL
 

asaph

Well-Known Member
if i am seeing correctly, they are in a party cup. rather than starting to feed, you'd better transplant them asap to a normal sized pot.
 

skunkpunk13

Active Member
if i am seeing correctly, they are in a party cup. rather than starting to feed, you'd better transplant them asap to a normal sized pot.
i second this and maby not use that mg soil that feeds for months when it comes to flushing if u need to it with cook the shit outta u plants get there organic soil that dosent have the ferts in it yet
 

skunkpunk13

Active Member
also what are the temp it could be to cold and its locking out pk in the soil which is what some growers do during flowering to get the buds purple....in which case doing what spark said will only kill them by causing a toxic build up....
 

Pliffy

Member
if i am seeing correctly, they are in a party cup. rather than starting to feed, you'd better transplant them asap to a normal sized pot.
i second this and maby not use that mg soil that feeds for months when it comes to flushing if u need to it with cook the shit outta u plants get there organic soil that dosent have the ferts in it yet
Correct, they are in a party cup. I meant to swap them to a bucket this weekend but havent gotten to it cause i dont know where to get FF soil from where im at... Should i transplant them straight to a bucket or transition the size of the container to eventually be a bucket?

also what are the temp it could be to cold and its locking out pk in the soil which is what some growers do during flowering to get the buds purple....in which case doing what spark said will only kill them by causing a toxic build up....
They should be sitting at ~75 degrees, so i think they're ok on the temp.






Today i mixed 1/8 of recommended does of MG food (all i have right now) and folar fed them.. Put them outside today cause its nice.


I hope this works
 

asaph

Well-Known Member
Correct, they are in a party cup. I meant to swap them to a bucket this weekend but havent gotten to it cause i dont know where to get FF soil from where im at... Should i transplant them straight to a bucket or transition the size of the container to eventually be a bucket?



They should be sitting at ~75 degrees, so i think they're ok on the temp.






Today i mixed 1/8 of recommended does of MG food (all i have right now) and folar fed them.. Put them outside today cause its nice.


I hope this works

You don't have to use FF, it may even be better to use a better more recommended soil without time releasers. Some like to gradually transplant with the sizes, I personally like to transplant into its lifelong pot. It may need more water when watering and more time between waterings but it's no big deal.

DO NOT move your plant between indoor and outdoor, out it will get pests that will have an easy time reproducing indoors.
 

sparkafire

Well-Known Member
also what are the temp it could be to cold and its locking out pk in the soil which is what some growers do during flowering to get the buds purple....in which case doing what spark said will only kill them by causing a toxic build up....
How do you figure it will kill them? 2 things I see from the pics #1 the plant is not big enough to be out growing the cup and the signs to not lend to over watering so the cup is not the issue. #2 he said he had not given the plant any nutrients yet which lends to my first diagnostic of Potassium def. Spray them with nutrients when there are no nutes available anyway would be the way to get them going in the right direction quicker that just feeding them though the soil.
 

Xcon

Active Member
Looks like a little palm tree, lol

If you can't buy good soil, you're going to have to mix it. There's a ton of soil recipes on this board, I recommend browsing the organic forum for a soil recipe that suits your needs. Some of them even use MG products.

It's recommended that you size up your pots to avoid over/underwatering but if you watch your plants they'll tell you when they need water. I go right from 6" pots to 5 gal buckets and my plants get real happy when they do :)
 

dan2581

Active Member
Dude start to feed them!! Get a spray bottle and folar spray until you get them back to normal. You have a potassium deficiancy big time. No worries though it wont kill them if you take care of it soon.
Potassium def starts on leave margins but causes browning not purpling. This is probably related to phosphorus because he said his ambient temps are 75 which are OK, and not cold stress.

if i am seeing correctly, they are in a party cup. rather than starting to feed, you'd better transplant them asap to a normal sized pot.
Transplanting is your best bet, not because the plant has outgrown the cup, because that soil is garbage and is clearly affecting nutrient availability.

How do you figure it will kill them? 2 things I see from the pics #1 the plant is not big enough to be out growing the cup and the signs to not lend to over watering so the cup is not the issue. #2 he said he had not given the plant any nutrients yet which lends to my first diagnostic of Potassium def. Spray them with nutrients when there are no nutes available anyway would be the way to get them going in the right direction quicker that just feeding them though the soil.
Just because he hasn't fed his plant nutes doesn't mean they aren't there. That little guy doesn't have nearly enough potential to suck that cup of dirt dry of nutrients, ESPECIALLY being in MG. Foilar feeding is not very effective on sick plants (or healthy plants for that matter), the leaves are taking damage and trying to repair themselves, not uptake nutrients. Another common myth is that you spray the tops of the leaves, all that will do is leave salt residue on your plant surface. The stomata are on the bottom of the leaves and that's how it can take in nutrients. These are only open around 72 degrees, which further makes foilar feeding pretty ineffective.

Also, your wasting your time, money, and freedom by growing in mg and feeding with mg. Until you take time, funds, and knowledge and invest it in your grow your not going to have any real success. I'm not bashing on being a beginner, I definitely was once there too. Any experience is definitely better than none. I am bashing on beginners who set expectations for even sub-par results. Under 120w of CFL lighting and horrible soil, environmental, and feeding conditions your plant will stress more than produce. All of that nonsense is nowhere WORTH your value of roaming the Earth free (to a certain extent, if you call America freedom). If you live in a region with decent conditions, you will have 10x better results throwing bagseed outdoors.

Please don't take that as an insult, but I work at a hydroponics store and watch people throw their time and money down the toilet every day. It saddens me when I started with virtually nothing and still produced and progressively got better each time, and thats true to this day. Even using my same genetic over and over, my results have always gotten better.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Why be so scared of mg soil, if its your only choice then go with it but if you can get hold of soil that hasn't got slow release ferts in it then maybe consider the change! Either way you are seeing nute deficiency from the plant being rootbound in a small cup, yer it could be potassium deficiency but i'd like to say macro/micro deficiency, maybe monoblyedon etc etc

The point is that that plant has a good dense root system and a quite thick trunk for that size plant, it has sort of stunted, you should have transplanted sooner so lesson for the next grow you do, when a few roots poke out of the holes at the bottom of the pot its almost time to transplant to new bigger pot, when they start to poke out and fill the hole a little and you have quite a few roots its definatly the right time to repot, any later than this and hey presto you get your plant. Now to repot that small thing into a big bucket would be wrong, a slightly bigger pot with a good volume of area for the roots to spead out and feed would be best and then after that a slightly bigger pot again. Work your way up to a bucket as you need your roots to fill the space in order to drink the nutes and absorb the water and dry the soil somewhat. The right size pot for the right size plant will allow you to gain better watering techniques and practices.

Now if you stick with the mg on the repot then ok don't use nutes for a long time and keep on repotting to a flowering size pot. Nutes might become an issue in flowering because the slow release will still be going but hey they might need topping with each watering but from what i hear probably not much. The moisture in the soil activates the fertilizer so you don't want the pot wet for long periods of time so the right size pot in relation to the plant is important again. If you can get hold of non slow release ferts soil like fox farm i would probably go with that after writing this and still you won't have to fertilize for a few weeks again. Hope this can help you out in some way, good luck.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Has anyone used or heard of mg organic soil, think it says for fruit and veg on the front but i was wondering how they made a time release fertilizer that was organic, i would considor using it to see what it was like as i have always stayed away from the mg range but would take a chance on this as the only organic soil in my area of the uk. Thanks.
 

Pliffy

Member
So i will be going out of town on Sat. where i can potentially buy some FF soil, should i wait to transplant these into a larger container until i get the FF, or should i transplant now using MG soil and then re-transplant again into FF?
 

sparkafire

Well-Known Member
Potassium def starts on leave margins but causes browning not purpling. This is probably related to phosphorus because he said his ambient temps are 75 which are OK, and not cold stress..
Do you have any idea of what you are talking about?



Transplanting is your best bet, not because the plant has outgrown the cup, because that soil is garbage and is clearly affecting nutrient availability.
The plant is not big enough to have out grown the cup yet bad soil or not. Once again, do you have any idea of what you are talking about?



Just because he hasn't fed his plant nutes doesn't mean they aren't there. That little guy doesn't have nearly enough potential to suck that cup of dirt dry of nutrients, ESPECIALLY being in MG.
WTF?

Foilar feeding is not very effective on sick plants (or healthy plants for that matter), the leaves are taking damage and trying to repair themselves, not uptake nutrients. Another common myth is that you spray the tops of the leaves, all that will do is leave salt residue on your plant surface. The stomata are on the bottom of the leaves and that's how it can take in nutrients. These are only open around 72 degrees, which further makes foilar feeding pretty ineffective.
ARE YOU JUST MAKING SHIT UP TO SOUND LIKE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING? I dare you to post any I mean ANY relevant research to what you just said is true. You attempted to make 5 points there I look forward to your response to them.

Please don't take that as an insult, but I work at a hydroponics store.
Well that explains EVERYTHING!!
 

asaph

Well-Known Member
Do you have any idea of what you are talking about?


Well that explains EVERYTHING!!
hmmm... do YOU have any relevant research to back you up? people are trying to help here yo. and you seem to hold a minority opinion. so I think it's up to you to "prove" you're right.

btw the dude who is needing the help can also check very easily if the plant has outgrown the cup or not. just lift it before watering.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Go straight into the Fox Farm soil and use if for the entire grow, no point using miracle grow any more if you are gona discontinue using it, Pot up from small to big but id give the plant plenty of soil with this repot so that the roots have space to spread out and absorb the nutrients in the soil, the leaves look like they might recover a little but new growth should be good, repot and give it one week to show good new growth, maybe two weeks, do not fertilize for these two weeks in new soil.
 

Xcon

Active Member
So i will be going out of town on Sat. where i can potentially buy some FF soil, should i wait to transplant these into a larger container until i get the FF, or should i transplant now using MG soil and then re-transplant again into FF?
Definitely. IDK if you have any near you, but Adams Fairacre Farms (supermarket chain) has a complete hydro section and they sell FFOF. One large bag has about 10 gallons of soil and they're about $22 a bag.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Most flowering and seedling soils should be ok, some might just need fertilizing earlier than others, just avoid the soils that say things like feeds for three months etc etc as these are the same as miracle grow in that they use slow release ferts in the soil that are activated by water at every watering. My bag of soil says feed after the fith week on the back of the bag and gives nute strengths and pH of the soil.
 
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