MY True HP Aero Plug&Play Pods

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sherriberry

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2 ?'s...

first, does the DRIP STORE take back misters if the mister doesnt work? I have a collection of several misters that dont even have a hole in the black nipple... so they dont spray... (lame question, dont bother answering it, ill call them tomorrow)

second... im trying to cojoin 2 tubs with a large flow hose. Right now, my best idea is with 2x 1 inch ID hoses, and 2 nipple bulkhead fittings to put on each tub.... is there a way that i could use a larger single pvc pipe... like a 2 or 3 inch pipe... and how would i sandwich the pipe to the walls of the tubs so that the pipe and the tubs dont leak? I havent figured out a way to do it, but i thought maybe one of you guys know the answer already.


Thanks
 
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sherriberry

New Member
3 qustions... i lied...

im doing things the fatman style where there is a solenoid , that when open, allows the flow to just recycle back to the main res, and when closed, forces flow to the sprayers...

i noticed that even when its open, it still gives resistance.... this solenoid is plastic... so i like it because no leaching.

I have another solenoid that is brass, and is used, so perhaps all the leaching is done??? anyway, when its open, theres no resistance... but it says for natural gas on it. Its super heavy and high quality.

ive got 4 of the plastic ones bc i bought them all together, and 2 of the brass ones.

My other idea is to maybe install a second plastic one on the main feed line, so that when they both open, maybe it will allow enough flow to silence the misters? I doubt it tho because its like its a spring in there or something... it takes pressure to get the thing open.. even when its open.

thanks in advance
 
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Atomizer

Well-Known Member
Tank connectors or bulkhead fittings for koi pond filters would sort the tub joining issue, you can get them for upto 4" pipe.
If the nozzle isn`t fit for purpose they should accept returns, maybe they sent you some blanking/blind nozzles (no holes) by mistake. The gas valve (without the spring assisted closure) would be better if its suitable for use with water, a small amount of brass shouldn`t hurt anything.
 
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sherriberry

New Member
Atomizer said:
Tank connectors or bulkhead fittings for koi pond filters would sort the tub joining issue, you can get them for upto 4" pipe.
If the nozzle isn`t fit for purpose they should accept returns, maybe they sent you some blanking/blind nozzles (no holes) by mistake. The gas valve (without the spring assisted closure) would be better if its suitable for use with water, a small amount of brass shouldn`t hurt anything.
Click to expand...

sweet, where do i get those fittings? is there a web site? ill look around. update... i found them... i feel like im in the twilight zone... i swear i looked the other day and couldnt find anything over an inch... now i can find them no problem... oh well, thanks for your help :)

the solenoid... yeah, i dont know if nat gas ones can be used for water. Fatman prob knows.

you ever going to help me with my timer atom-ant?

I need one that stays on for a while, and then just shuts off for a few seconds. the off is when it will cause the solenoid to slam shut and sprayers to come on.

let me know, thanks boss
 
squarepush3r

squarepush3r

Well-Known Member
sherriberry said:
sweet, where do i get those fittings? is there a web site? ill look around. update... i found them... i feel like im in the twilight zone... i swear i looked the other day and couldnt find anything over an inch... now i can find them no problem... oh well, thanks for your help :)

the solenoid... yeah, i dont know if nat gas ones can be used for water. Fatman prob knows.

you ever going to help me with my timer atom-ant?

I need one that stays on for a while, and then just shuts off for a few seconds. the off is when it will cause the solenoid to slam shut and sprayers to come on.

let me know, thanks boss
Click to expand...
search "Uni Seals"
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
sherriberry said:
sweet, where do i get those fittings? is there a web site? ill look around. update... i found them... i feel like im in the twilight zone... i swear i looked the other day and couldnt find anything over an inch... now i can find them no problem... oh well, thanks for your help :)

the solenoid... yeah, i dont know if nat gas ones can be used for water. Fatman prob knows.

you ever going to help me with my timer atom-ant?

I need one that stays on for a while, and then just shuts off for a few seconds. the off is when it will cause the solenoid to slam shut and sprayers to come on.

let me know, thanks boss
Click to expand...
Most solenoid valves are for gas, liquid and air.

All the research on leaching I have ever are done in plumbing of a fully pressurized plumbing system where the water is not used for over 10 to 12 hours but the lines remain pressurized during this full time. So the copper leaching from the brass valve is not eally an issue as the majority of the time the water will be running through the valve.

The issue is pitting and corrosion due to the heavy salt content of the water. Thankfully with a better droplet size you will get better nutrient uptake so you can run a fairly low EC.

A large plastic solenoid valve would work best but even at salvage price they are pretty expensive. You also need to look at the orifice size of any valve rather than just the inlet and outlet pipe size. Many solenoids have an orifice size a full pipe size smaller than the inlet and outlet pipes. This allows for easier valve action and seating. ie this means a 3/4 inch pipe usually has a 1/2 inch orifice (interior throat diameter) which can mean that a 1" has a 3/4" orifice.

As for good large plastic solenoid valve prices. I have bought three 3/4 inch Hayward valves in the last month for an average price of $65 plus shipping. I have bought a couple Hayward 1/2 inch valves. One for $25 plus shipping and one for $50 plus shipping. Those are exceptionally good prices as retail your talking about prices like $300 for the 1/2" and $400 for the 3/4". I had to pay $100 for a 1" and they usually retail for about $450.

Plastomatics are even more expensive as they are seldom offered by individuals or anyone but one retailer that sells through eBay. Hayward's are true union valves and the Plastomatics just come with threaded taps.
 
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Atomizer

Well-Known Member
You can connect the output of a standard cycle timer to the coil of a double pole double throw (dpdt) relay.
Wire the solenoid to the normally closed relay contacts (they connect when no power is on the coil)
Timer on (1 second) = solenoid off, timer off (5 mins etc) = solenoid on.
Washing machine solenoids are the cheapest if you can find a scrap washing machine :)
 
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sherriberry

New Member
Atomizer said:
You can connect the output of a standard cycle timer to the coil of a double pole double throw (dpdt) relay.
Wire the solenoid to the normally closed relay contacts (they connect when no power is on the coil)
Timer on (1 second) = solenoid off, timer off (5 mins etc) = solenoid on.
Washing machine solenoids are the cheapest if you can find a scrap washing machine :)
Click to expand...

ive got plenty of solenoids for now... so no worries there...



so this relay stuff??? is a foreign language to me at the moment...

what now?

can i just pay you and you send me one? lol
 
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Atomizer

Well-Known Member
All you need is a dpdt relay with a coil voltage that matches your timer output (probably 120v), you won` t have any trouble finding one.
The dpdt relay has 8 connections, 2 for the coil, 2 common, 2 n/o and 2 n/c. The timer output goes to the coil connections, mains power + and - to the commons (assuming the solenoid runs on the mains) and the solenoid wires to the 2 n/c connections.
 

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tree farmer

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relays arent hard to figure out. it is just like a light switch. only instead of turning the switch on by flipping a lever you turn the switch on by appying a voltage to it. heres a link to relays. these work great and are cheap. just find one from the pages that has the voltage you need. these are surplus and are way cheaper than buying new ones and have worked for me for years.
they have all kinds of cool stuff a person can use at dirt cheap prices if you use your imagination.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/500/Relays/1.html
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
I betcha if he wasn't stoned he got stoned after reading that. I know what it said and I still had to read it twice, just to make sure that all that info really fit into just two sentences.
 
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tree farmer

Well-Known Member
fatman7574 said:
I betcha if he wasn't stoned he got stoned after reading that. I know what it said and I still had to read it twice, just to make sure that all that info really fit into just two sentences.
Click to expand...
lol! i guess it only makes sense if you already know ,but yea i see your point.
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
clydefrog said:
here's a laymans diagram if you want to save even more...
Click to expand...
Layman's diagram.. You and atomizer kill me. Now I am a bit more aware as to why people at times tell me to dummy it down. The understanding electronic circuitry is and electrical engineering are not very commonly understood fields. It would be interesting to know just how many people comprehend symbols on electronic circuitry diagrams. My guess is that likely less than 5% of viewers to this forum comprehend anything on the layman's terms schematic. Relay, relay coil, resistors, diode, capacitor, line loads, resistance values, voltage and charge symbols. Yep-per, all layman's stuff.
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
The very word Kirchoff still gives me chills and that was many years ago that I did two semesters of physics and my one required circuitry course when working towards my first engineering degree. For me, for some reason, electronics is all work and no fun. I am glad their are people who find it easy and enjoyable as that means I do not need to get that involved with it. My introduction to differential equations was due to circuitry. Ugh, such memories.
 
OregonMeds

OregonMeds

Well-Known Member
Me neither, the challenge of learning it was fun but once I was done I couldn't wait to get into something else.

Ended up in computer networking.
 
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sherriberry

New Member
yeah, im more of a big picture physics and design guy. Business, film, mechanical engineering are what my degrees are in.

now growing plants :)

thanks for all those amazing diagrams guys... you did indeed make me feel dumb and im going to study up on this stuff, ive found a definite void in my intelligence.

theres only so many hours in a day, and between building new setups, and my other day job, and also getting my huge web site off the ground... its seems like next thing you know its 2am, and youve still got stuff to do.

yes, im on 120 v, im using the cap timers.

If you guys get some extra time, and want to shoot me a link to the exact part number on that relay page that tree farmer linked.. i wouldnt complain at all :)
 
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Atomizer

Well-Known Member
This one would work ok
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RLY-453/120-VAC-RELAY-DPDT-12-AMPS/-/1.html

Clydefrogs schematic is a bit too basic, it needs a few more components otherwise the timing could vary. It would be fine for anything non critical where a second or two either way is tolerable.

Fatman, the fun is in building something that does the same job for 10% of the price. I made a twin cycle timer for the vertical that cost the equivalent of $15.67. Believe it or not, the damned hardware (a plastic box, control knobs etc) made up over half the total cost :)
 
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