my flower tips are stretching out of control well into 4th week of flowering . buds filled up nice but now stretched to point of fluffiness. 4 plants under a 150 hps in a 21"x21" closet about 3 to 6 inches from light using pura vita bloom. would adding some cool whites slow the strech
NEWBIES NEED HELP? smokinHerbOnDaCurb has all ansers!!!!!
- Thread starter smokinHerbOnDaCurb
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smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
I think your lights need to be closer to the plant.
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
It could be the strain of the plant. Some strains can only be grown in the veg. stage for a week be4 flowerin b/c the flowerin stage os the period were the plant stretches. If your lights are 3-5 inches away from the plant and it is still stretching it prob is the strain. It may be the light. A light with a more blue spectrum is mainly for veg. For flowering try getting a light that gives off more red light.
ScottsBlown99
Well-Known Member
Sorry buddy picked me up in the tans am for a smoke ride 
Ok the exhaust is going out into the ceiling between floors. It is only 4in so i'll have to reduce the 6'' ducting into the 4in hole, can't really make it bigger. This closet is in the basement. There'll be about 4-5 plants under the 600w hps, have nine now at about a foot tall. veg room on other side of closet. so go with 6" ducting then?
stealth against the possibility of landlord coming over
scrubber doesn't have a fan or a circulation device, it a DIY just like this one
as for the zipper, the closet will be surrounded by mylar and yeah i want a zipper entrance so i can squeeze in there and work. guess i'll try n search for something that'll maybe glue onto it or something, then i can cut an entrance..
Ok the exhaust is going out into the ceiling between floors. It is only 4in so i'll have to reduce the 6'' ducting into the 4in hole, can't really make it bigger. This closet is in the basement. There'll be about 4-5 plants under the 600w hps, have nine now at about a foot tall. veg room on other side of closet. so go with 6" ducting then?
stealth against the possibility of landlord coming over
scrubber doesn't have a fan or a circulation device, it a DIY just like this one
as for the zipper, the closet will be surrounded by mylar and yeah i want a zipper entrance so i can squeeze in there and work. guess i'll try n search for something that'll maybe glue onto it or something, then i can cut an entrance..
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
Come to think bout it u can go ahead and use 4 inch ducts.
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
also look on the net there might be plastic with a zipper already on it the pot heads think bout everything
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
Does any body else need help on anything?
ScottsBlown99
Well-Known Member
i'll have a bunch of reducers then, one on each side of the hood, one the the scrubber and one on each side of the fan, so 5
will this be ok? if i use 6" throughout will there be more of a backpressure issue because of the 4" outlet/reducer?
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
it sounds good but if you dont want to spend money on all of those reducers you can use 4inch piping just their is not as much air flow
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
sorry i got confused you know what your doing those plans you made were nice.
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
+ reps 4u man
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
Well anyone else?????
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
By the way the ideas I gave you were a cheaper and a same yeilder alternative just a little easier and east to compact ....sort of
don juan de pappi
Well-Known Member
Man..your a pretty good writer, and you know your shit + rep for you. Ok, my question; I got a tent...48X48X78..600HPS..What strain and what method of growing (SOG, ScROG, LST, Topping) is going to give me the biggest yield? I am growing mostly for myself, lol, but in this economy making a few buck for some beer and Cig money is definitely a motivator too!
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
Srry I have not been arount the computer. topping is good so is low stress trianing I think low stress training is a good technique that maxs out your yeild. Here I will copy and past a few good techniqes from my note pad.
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
How-to : LST (Low Stress Training)
Well here we go, LST (Low Stress Training) the ultimate way to maximize your yield.
Before we begin lets get some knowledge on what you will be looking at.
Light Brown : Pot Outline
Green thick Lines : Main Stem
Small Thin Lines with Green Balls on top : Fan leafs
Yellow Lines : Side Branches
Red : Tiedown Metal Hooks (or thread whichever item you use, i use Hooks its easier)
The Text in the box : First digit is Step No. and Second Digit is Pot Size, below the numbers is the type of view your looking at (either from the SIDE or from the TOP)
Now that thats out of the way lets get it on..
Please note, you dont have to do it this way, its just the idea of how to do LST, this is the way i did it and you can see the end result of 4 weeks of growth this way in my signature picture where it says FIM/LST. Some may opt to use the eggcrate method where you utilize an eggcrate around the pot and tie it down to that with zipties instead of using string or hooks running from the pot itself... this way you can cover more square footage and maximize your yield even more.
Ok heres the STEPS PICTURE for you to follow along with
STEP 1 : Grow your plant from Seed or Clone to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.
STEP 2 : Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.
STEP 3 : This is really not a step, just waiting time... Take note of how the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day. Under my 1000 Watt Metal Halide light it does it in under 3 hours.
STEP 4 : Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set. You will notice Side branching has started already because good light is getting to the main stem areas next to each fanleaf stem intersection with the main stem.
STEP 5 : Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot. In this illustration to save time and drawings, i started out with a small pot and it reached the end of the pot after the first tiedown. I repotted it into a 10 inch pot which will be my final pot size for this plant in order for me to continue the LST Bends around the inside edge of the pot.
STEP 6 : Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely.
STEP 7 : Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.
STEP 8 : Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant ) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook.... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.
STEP 9 : After you have used up all possible space inside the pot (or your eggcrate) its time to just let it flower.. This is a side view of how it will and should look by that time with all the side branches growing upwards towards the light.... these will all become Collas unlike a non LST plant will only have one colla.
During flowering and even before due to lack of light on the main stem fan leafs which is all the way to the bottom almost against the soil those fanleafs will die off anyways, i usually cut these off the main stem right after the branch has grown out in that area, keeps things neat down below where you will need good airflow during flowering.. so go ahead and take off any fanleafs coming off the main stem that is going around the inside edge of the pot.
Set you timer to 12/12 and watch it bloom.
STEP 10 :Two days before we harvest, Leave the lights OFF. dont let light touch them. When you do this, the female plants think there dieing(winter is comming) and extract all the Resin (THC) out of there system, thus making stronger more potent buds with the same tast.
STEP 11: HARVEST!! if you followed step 10 the buds will be covered in THC crystals. they will be beautiful, have a NICE SMOKE
Make sure you have just watered your plants, they bend easier and tend not to snap.
This is an idea i have been usin for years. It keeps the plant low and all the side branches produce buds. There has to be at least 15 colas per plant. Topping techniqe is also good to use but it can put the plant into stress and takes time to recover. Dont start prunin until its fifth nodes have sprouted and unfolded then the next nodes just prune at the axil and in about a week two new branches come from that spot. Dont prune to much b/c it can stunt the plant. If you want multiple colas use the lst method or supercroping. super croping is more stressing. Hope this helps thnx for the rep.
Well here we go, LST (Low Stress Training) the ultimate way to maximize your yield.
Before we begin lets get some knowledge on what you will be looking at.
Light Brown : Pot Outline
Green thick Lines : Main Stem
Small Thin Lines with Green Balls on top : Fan leafs
Yellow Lines : Side Branches
Red : Tiedown Metal Hooks (or thread whichever item you use, i use Hooks its easier)
The Text in the box : First digit is Step No. and Second Digit is Pot Size, below the numbers is the type of view your looking at (either from the SIDE or from the TOP)
Now that thats out of the way lets get it on..
Please note, you dont have to do it this way, its just the idea of how to do LST, this is the way i did it and you can see the end result of 4 weeks of growth this way in my signature picture where it says FIM/LST. Some may opt to use the eggcrate method where you utilize an eggcrate around the pot and tie it down to that with zipties instead of using string or hooks running from the pot itself... this way you can cover more square footage and maximize your yield even more.
Ok heres the STEPS PICTURE for you to follow along with
STEP 1 : Grow your plant from Seed or Clone to 3 or 4 leaf sets, some use 5 but i always use 3 because after 3rd leaf set the main stem starts to harden and it will be harder to bend over your plant properly without breaking the main stem.
STEP 2 : Using a metal hook (i cut small sections of cloths hanger and bend a U shape at the end as a hook) bend over your plant with metal hook at the last internode (space between the last set of fanleafs and the next to last) and stick the metal hook into your dirt to hold down the stem.
STEP 3 : This is really not a step, just waiting time... Take note of how the top of the plant that was bent down will bend back upwards towards the light, this could take anywhere from 3 hours to 1 day. Under my 1000 Watt Metal Halide light it does it in under 3 hours.
STEP 4 : Veg and dont tie down until you have a new leaf set. You will notice Side branching has started already because good light is getting to the main stem areas next to each fanleaf stem intersection with the main stem.
STEP 5 : Depending on your starting pot size you may have to transplant. If you started out with a large pot, repeat step 2 over and over again holding the main stem down with hooks until you reach the end of the pot. In this illustration to save time and drawings, i started out with a small pot and it reached the end of the pot after the first tiedown. I repotted it into a 10 inch pot which will be my final pot size for this plant in order for me to continue the LST Bends around the inside edge of the pot.
STEP 6 : Now that your new leaf set has formed you have enough length in growth since the first bend(s) to allow you to start bending the stem horizontally around the inside edge of the pot. Use metal hooks again to keep this bend in place. Side branches should be coming along very nicely.
STEP 7 : Continue repeating steps 4 and 6, allowing the plant to grow and then keep tieing it down along the inside edge of pot using metal hooks (or whatever your using) Side branches should be forming and growing up towards the light.
STEP 8 : Continue to repeat step 7 until you are all the way around the pot... when you reach the point where your plant first met the edge of the plant Top the plant (cut off the very top of the plant ) and hold it down horizontally with a metal hook.... During all this time of repeating step 7 you should also be tieing down horizontally the new branches that have formed from the main stem as much as possible until you use up as much space as possible inside the pot as well , the outter branches growing over the outside edge of the pot you can hold down as well with string to keep those tops even with the inner branches.
STEP 9 : After you have used up all possible space inside the pot (or your eggcrate) its time to just let it flower.. This is a side view of how it will and should look by that time with all the side branches growing upwards towards the light.... these will all become Collas unlike a non LST plant will only have one colla.
During flowering and even before due to lack of light on the main stem fan leafs which is all the way to the bottom almost against the soil those fanleafs will die off anyways, i usually cut these off the main stem right after the branch has grown out in that area, keeps things neat down below where you will need good airflow during flowering.. so go ahead and take off any fanleafs coming off the main stem that is going around the inside edge of the pot.
Set you timer to 12/12 and watch it bloom.
STEP 10 :Two days before we harvest, Leave the lights OFF. dont let light touch them. When you do this, the female plants think there dieing(winter is comming) and extract all the Resin (THC) out of there system, thus making stronger more potent buds with the same tast.
STEP 11: HARVEST!! if you followed step 10 the buds will be covered in THC crystals. they will be beautiful, have a NICE SMOKE
Make sure you have just watered your plants, they bend easier and tend not to snap.
This is an idea i have been usin for years. It keeps the plant low and all the side branches produce buds. There has to be at least 15 colas per plant. Topping techniqe is also good to use but it can put the plant into stress and takes time to recover. Dont start prunin until its fifth nodes have sprouted and unfolded then the next nodes just prune at the axil and in about a week two new branches come from that spot. Dont prune to much b/c it can stunt the plant. If you want multiple colas use the lst method or supercroping. super croping is more stressing. Hope this helps thnx for the rep.
skoooooot
Well-Known Member
Hey Smokin H O DaCurb---
Im a newbie... and have been reading up for the past 3-4 month.... buying supplies... and finally started germinating some seeds. I cant get a sprout to save my life. Im trying everything... and so far i have one dead sprout. Ive tried the wet paper towel approach, straight into rockwool, i just tried straight into a peat puck today. Getting very frustraited. Im using distilled water.... playing by all the rules... but I still have nada. I have a great tomato plant going to camo the special flowers. Ive also mixed it up and using bag seeds and the good ones from the mail. Ive cracked seeds and germed seeds... just cant get them to pop out of the rockwool. The first ones i killed i think the rockwool was too wet... ive adjusted and re water them when they feel like they are getting dry (but still moist). Should i stay with soil... and not try hydro yet? Im stumped.
Thx!
Im a newbie... and have been reading up for the past 3-4 month.... buying supplies... and finally started germinating some seeds. I cant get a sprout to save my life. Im trying everything... and so far i have one dead sprout. Ive tried the wet paper towel approach, straight into rockwool, i just tried straight into a peat puck today. Getting very frustraited. Im using distilled water.... playing by all the rules... but I still have nada. I have a great tomato plant going to camo the special flowers. Ive also mixed it up and using bag seeds and the good ones from the mail. Ive cracked seeds and germed seeds... just cant get them to pop out of the rockwool. The first ones i killed i think the rockwool was too wet... ive adjusted and re water them when they feel like they are getting dry (but still moist). Should i stay with soil... and not try hydro yet? Im stumped.
Thx!
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
Well if you have problems germinating they need to be dark and moist and warm 70-85 degrees any higher than 85 will kill em. Dont keep em wet just moist. Now if you plant into rock wool You need to be very careful whne moving and handling the little sprouts. Wear cotton gloves. If this is your first grow try using a mixture of 1/4 peatmoss o1/4 perlite1/4 soil(ph balanced around6.2-7.0) and 1/4 vermaculite. or just get a light potting mix that already has vermaculite and peat moss mixed in with soil just make sure the ph is right. Add some perlite for good drainage. You can get a ph tester for 5 dollars at a hardware store same with the rest of this shit. Get little plastic cups (clear) so you can see root growth. Once a taproot has emerged from the seed and is 1t least a 1/4 an inch long CAREFULLY plant it into the light potting soil mix. I usually get a pencil and measure 1/4 more than the root and poke a hole into the soil. Then carefully lay the seed root down into the soil trying not to stess the taproot. the lightly cover up the soil and moisten not soak with water. U can use rock wool but since this is your first grow you should start with somethin a little easier. I ussually plant the rooted seed before dark period of light and give it over night to stretch out U dont have to this is just what i do. And in the mornin give em lights 18-6 until they get bigger. Oh yeah after you water for the first time in soil You can get another plastic cup and poke a venting hole in it and tape/ place whatever on top of the soil cup for like a humidity barirer until it sprouts its leaves out. Too help with young growth. Even with the light on. Make sure it is a clear plastic cup. Dont start fertilizing until the first third node emerges from the stem even the 1/4 strength to 1/2 strength until it matures and you can schedule to full strength raed the box. For veg state of growth use any plant food 20-20-20 for flowerin when you put them under 12/12 lighting use a bloom nutriest that has high phosphorus somin like 8-34-8. Hope this help have any more questions just ask if i dont anser quikly sorry i reply back sometime every body needs a smoke brreak.
smokinHerbOnDaCurb
Well-Known Member
Does any one else need of assitance