Finally, an effective and SAFE grow tent heater

LewberDewber852

Well-Known Member
My humidifier doesn’t shutoff at the set. I can set my low target at 45 and it’s still 70% in there. I really hate exhausting out my climate if I don’t have to. Would an humidity controller inkbird combat this? I think I have the cloudforge 3.
My oil radiant jobber does amazing on a inkbird and I’m in a basement with an under utilized 5x5. Thing was like 30-40$ at Lowe’s. All analog so pairs well with the inkbird.
 

marzig

Well-Known Member
My humidifier doesn’t shutoff at the set. I can set my low target at 45 and it’s still 70% in there. I really hate exhausting out my climate if I don’t have to. Would an humidity controller inkbird combat this? I think I have the cloudforge 3.
My oil radiant jobber does amazing on a inkbird and I’m in a basement with an under utilized 5x5. Thing was like 30-40$ at Lowe’s. All analog so pairs well with the inkbird.
I have my humidifier set up in auto mode, target, continuous 24/7". In target rather than trigger mode you only have the option of setting the on/off humidity level. I have the min/max settings at 3 and 5.
My tent temp is set at 79 and humidity target at 74%. With a -1 degree offset my average vpd is 0.73.
I should also add I'm doing this through the 79 Pro not the humidifier's onboard panel.
 
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Jimski

Well-Known Member
I'm using an infrared laser thermometer that are available from amazon. Shoot several leaves to get an average temp. Subtract from room temp, if using leds, to get the offset. I didn't buy the most expensive one but it ballparks it close enough I think.
Ok now here is the important part of the equation. You have an air sensor that works on resistance and a infrared that looks at radiated energy. How were the tools zeroed to express a very small difference in temp?
As a long time automotive tech I have worked with temp all my life. I have several high end tools that measure temp from -35 to 1600 degrees. my main tool is a fluke 88 with a $700 pyro kit that measure very broad but very acurately. air moving over a probe and a leaf will change temps. All my plants rock indicating wind over the leafs. It seems to me that measuring the leaf temp os not something I can do in a tent with all the movement and up and down with humidity. I honestly had a closer to spec humidity range when I used bowls of water and wet towels. This humidifier no matter where I put it has a 3% range swing. Only way I can get it more stable is to reduce duct and the 3 fans in the tent ( 2 in the lights) to almost no air exchange.
Frustrating to say the least.
 

LewberDewber852

Well-Known Member
I have my humidifier set up in auto mode, target, continuous 24/7". In target rather than trigger mode you only have the option of setting the on/off humidity level. I have the min/max settings at 3 and 5.
My tent temp is set at 79 and humidity target at 74%. With a -1 degree offset my average vpd is 0.73.
I should also add I'm doing this through the 79 Pro not the humidifier's onboard panel.
Yea the pro is the difference maker. The onboard panel of the humidifier itself is what I’m working with since my controller (Old 67 model) is now basically obsolete bc it has no WiFi. I’d imagine they prolly have an adapter tho. That 79 pro looks tits. I’ll have to grab one of them for Christmas
 

LewberDewber852

Well-Known Member
In a perfect world I’d feel the only time your exhaust should come on is to exchange the air rather than come on when limits are exceeded. I say this bc it’s wasteful to exhaust the climate you’re trying to create. Which is what I’m currently doing :wall:
 

marzig

Well-Known Member
Ok now here is the important part of the equation. You have an air sensor that works on resistance and a infrared that looks at radiated energy. How were the tools zeroed to express a very small difference in temp?
As a long time automotive tech I have worked with temp all my life. I have several high end tools that measure temp from -35 to 1600 degrees. my main tool is a fluke 88 with a $700 pyro kit that measure very broad but very acurately. air moving over a probe and a leaf will change temps. All my plants rock indicating wind over the leafs. It seems to me that measuring the leaf temp os not something I can do in a tent with all the movement and up and down with humidity. I honestly had a closer to spec humidity range when I used bowls of water and wet towels. This humidifier no matter where I put it has a 3% range swing. Only way I can get it more stable is to reduce duct and the 3 fans in the tent ( 2 in the lights) to almost no air exchange.
Frustrating to say the least.
3% humidity swings is where I'm at too, 2% above and 1% below.
I don't honestly know how accurate any of this is. It certainly not laboratory grade accuracy. After all it's a very dynamic environment inside a grow tent or room almost like outside in mother nature. Plants can adapt to and deal with these variations.
I think it gets me close but ultimately it's how the plants are responding that is important. What I've noticed, with having data to look back at, is that every time I open the tent is when the most dramatic swings occur. By being able to monitor and make adjustments without opening the tent as much I have a much more stable environment.
 

marzig

Well-Known Member
In a perfect world I’d feel the only time your exhaust should come on is to exchange the air rather than come on when limits are exceeded. I say this bc it’s wasteful to exhaust the climate you’re trying to create. Which is what I’m currently doing :wall:
I totally agree! This is probably the advantage of having a dedicated lung room to house your tent or tents.
 

tstick

Well-Known Member
Hello Rollitup,
As we move into winter, I am assuming that I’m not alone looking for heating solutions for my tent. I looked for a safe heating solution for many years but always hesitated because space heaters in a tent appeared unsafe. I discovered this AC Infinity heater that can be set up outside of the tent and it pumps warm air through a hose. It’s been a game changer for my basement tent. For anyone struggling with cold tent temperatures, I highly recommend this unit. I run mine using an AC Infinity Controller 69, but the unit can be programmed on its own if you’re not using the AC Infinity system. It’s under $100 currently.

Between their humidifier and heater, I’ve managed to lock in my VPD. I’m at 78 degrees/65 % humidity with lights on and 73 degrees/63% humidity at night. Meanwhile my basement is 67 degrees at night.

Best of luck with your grows……I hope this information proves helpful to someone.


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I really like AC Infinity's approach. All their stuff fits together and you can build up the system one piece at a time if needed. I just bought one of their 6" exhaust fans and I already own one of the 16" Ion Beam side light systems. What really brought me to them was their clip on oscillating fans. I have two of the original ones that made noise, but they replaced them for free and told me to keep the old ones! That's admirable!
 

LewberDewber852

Well-Known Member
I totally agree! This is probably the advantage of having a dedicated lung room to house your tent or tents.
You’re totally right. Something I’ve should’ve done by now but haven’t for no good reason. Same with a dedicated panel. Not that I am pushing any limits but peace of mind is just that.
 

LewberDewber852

Well-Known Member
I really like AC Infinity's approach. All their stuff fits together and you can build up the system one piece at a time if needed. I just bought one of their 6" exhaust fans and I already own one of the 16" Ion Beam side light systems. What really brought me to them was their clip on oscillating fans. I have two of the original ones that made noise, but they replaced them for free and told me to keep the old ones! That's admirable!
It is convenient that’s for sure. I like the little books that come with their products lol
Makes you want more shiny things to optimize your environment and experience bongsmilie
 

LowRange

Well-Known Member
What really brought me to them was their clip on oscillating fans. I have two of the original ones that made noise, but they replaced them for free and told me to keep the old ones! That's admirable!
Mine caught fire and I've had support try to tell me all the equipment sold on Amazon by the seller "AC Infinity" is second hand lol.
 

LewberDewber852

Well-Known Member
Mine caught fire and I've had support try to tell me all the equipment sold on Amazon by the seller "AC Infinity" is second hand lol.
I honestly was going to mention to buy anybody’s equipment at your local “hydro” store. Usually just as good as any deals you find online and if u have an issue so much easier to deal with.
I had a good experience with their customer service when my first cloudforge wasn’t working right. Luckily I bought it from my local shop :hump:
They sent me the next gen model at the time.
 
All I see is that it runs at 530 watts at full power and there are ten power levels. Since I’m only heating a small 2x4x8, mine is normally running at level 2-3.
Hi. What are the temps in the room your tents are in? My basement is hovering around 60° f. I was thinking of getting this heater but wouldn't it just run all the time as it's pulling air into the tent, warming it, and then just exhausting it out through my exhaust fans?
 

Jimski

Well-Known Member
Hi. What are the temps in the room your tents are in? My basement is hovering around 60° f. I was thinking of getting this heater but wouldn't it just run all the time as it's pulling air into the tent, warming it, and then just exhausting it out through my exhaust fans?
I have a very small tent 31 x 31 x 63. When I first installed the heater I was trying hydro dwc and I had fabricated a panel to leave the buckets out of the heated portion of the tent. This made my 63 inch tall tent 49 inches. With that small of a space the unit had no problems running 88 degrees.
Now I am in soil without a panel it is a different story. My lowest temp in the basement has been 64f. At that point the heater box on max will raise 10 degrees and the recovery time of the tent after opening the door is 15 minutes. The only way I can get 83 degrees is with an additional small ceramic heater used to preheat the air going into the heater box and also the tent incoming air for duct fan is right in the ceramic heaters fan stream. I finagled the duct till the air coming in is at 80 degrees so when the fan runs it does not wipe out the temp.
Additionally not sure if this is a bug or feature of the heater but if I choose a max of 8 the air coming out is 15 degrees warmer that on setting 10. More air comes out but at a lower temp. This thing should have a 1- 8 setting as 9 and 10 are no different.
 

Jimski

Well-Known Member
Hello riu folks

Looking for some folks to help with a technical project on this heater box. As documentation on the unit has no specs I would like to write a spec sheet for this heater.

What I need is just a few people who have this box and can set it up under controlled conditions to document temp and airflow at settings 1- 10.
I want to keep it simple with simple tools that everybody has. A temp probe and if possible an airflow indicator called an anemometer. these can be had for under 50 bucks and I use it for airflow control.
Set up unit with one hose connected but as short as the hose will go. Set up in as close to a 70 degree room as possible. Turn on unit and place temp probe even with exit and place anemometer directly behind probe. Start at settings 1 document stabilized airspeed and temp. Continue until all settings are documented and post results here. If everyone uses the same setup the data can be used to ensure the unit is working as designed or has a problem.

For extra credit if you have a watt meter post the results of that also. I have a fluke88 and can do math so I can do the power side also
 

DoubleD5374

Well-Known Member
Hello Rollitup,
As we move into winter, I am assuming that I’m not alone looking for heating solutions for my tent. I looked for a safe heating solution for many years but always hesitated because space heaters in a tent appeared unsafe. I discovered this AC Infinity heater that can be set up outside of the tent and it pumps warm air through a hose. It’s been a game changer for my basement tent. For anyone struggling with cold tent temperatures, I highly recommend this unit. I run mine using an AC Infinity Controller 69, but the unit can be programmed on its own if you’re not using the AC Infinity system. It’s under $100 currently.

Between their humidifier and heater, I’ve managed to lock in my VPD. I’m at 78 degrees/65 % humidity with lights on and 73 degrees/63% humidity at night. Meanwhile my basement is 67 degrees at night.

Best of luck with your grows……I hope this information proves helpful to someone.


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I run this same heater in my tent - heater is outside the tent now - I had to warranty my first one

originally , it was in the tent and saw high humidity , which I believe caused the circuit board for the main power supply to burn out .

I put the replacement outside and ran the hose to the center of my tent - and it’s kept my girls very very happy . Now I’m trying to find a seedling mat that is 4x4 to cover the bottom of my tent - and keep the autopot bases warm “the floor in my lung room is freezing cold , when it gets below 15 degrees Fahrenheit “which happens a lot from now till march”aside from that , it has no problem keeping my tent 85/90 with the lung room temp above 60 degrees
 

marzig

Well-Known Member
I run this same heater in my tent - heater is outside the tent now - I had to warranty my first one

originally , it was in the tent and saw high humidity , which I believe caused the circuit board for the main power supply to burn out .

I put the replacement outside and ran the hose to the center of my tent - and it’s kept my girls very very happy . Now I’m trying to find a seedling mat that is 4x4 to cover the bottom of my tent - and keep the autopot bases warm “the floor in my lung room is freezing cold , when it gets below 15 degrees Fahrenheit “which happens a lot from now till march”aside from that , it has no problem keeping my tent 85/90 with the lung room temp above 60 degrees
Have you tried insulating the tent floor from your basement floor?
 

DoubleD5374

Well-Known Member
Have you tried insulating the tent floor from your basement floor?
The floor is insulated, , but it’s my front porch and there’s no basement , so it still gets extremely cold .
Once this grow is finished , I’ll throw in the seedling heat mats for winter grows , possibly even experimenting with them to see if it promotes more vigorous growth “I suspect it will “
 

marzig

Well-Known Member
The floor is insulated, , but it’s my front porch and there’s no basement , so it still gets extremely cold .
Once this grow is finished , I’ll throw in the seedling heat mats for winter grows , possibly even experimenting with them to see if it promotes more vigorous growth “I suspect it will “
Sorry, I misread your post.
 
I have a very small tent 31 x 31 x 63. When I first installed the heater I was trying hydro dwc and I had fabricated a panel to leave the buckets out of the heated portion of the tent. This made my 63 inch tall tent 49 inches. With that small of a space the unit had no problems running 88 degrees.
Now I am in soil without a panel it is a different story. My lowest temp in the basement has been 64f. At that point the heater box on max will raise 10 degrees and the recovery time of the tent after opening the door is 15 minutes. The only way I can get 83 degrees is with an additional small ceramic heater used to preheat the air going into the heater box and also the tent incoming air for duct fan is right in the ceramic heaters fan stream. I finagled the duct till the air coming in is at 80 degrees so when the fan runs it does not wipe out the temp.
Additionally not sure if this is a bug or feature of the heater but if I choose a max of 8 the air coming out is 15 degrees warmer that on setting 10. More air comes out but at a lower temp. This thing should have a 1- 8 setting as 9 and 10 are no different.
Thanks! So do your heaters run 24/7? I would hate the idea of a 500 w device running 24/7 with my crazy expensive power costs here on the Long Island
 
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