Permit required to buy 190 proof
- Thread starter RottyRzr
- Start date
Herb & Suds
Well-Known Member
PadawanWarrior
Well-Known Member
Don't think it has anything to do with flavor. That shit doesn't really have a flavor. Ever tried Everclear?
Pros: Copper coils are stronger, easier to maintain, and more reliable than aluminum coils. Copper has a better heat transfer rate and is easier to repair in the field if the coil is damaged. Cons: The cost of copper continues to rise, and copper coils require more material than aluminum coils.
Herb & Suds
Well-Known Member
Herb & Suds
Well-Known Member
I agree but copper stills are multi purpose
Some people make bourbon and vodka and corn whiskey
Or so I hear
MICHI-CAN
Well-Known Member
Hook Daddy
Well-Known Member
Maryland won’t sell the 190 ec, but they sell 189 proof. It’s worth the trip across the Potomac for me. I bought an extract craft because I got tired of driving.
DancesWithWeeds
Well-Known Member
I have a 1 L still from Amazon. It works just fine to dry out EC. Sometimes condensation will drop the proof noticeably low. I run it thru the still and watch the head tempature. When it starts to go up the EC should be 190. I have had it to 192.
If you freeze your EC it will start condencing water as soon as it's open so your proof drops every time you open your bottle.
You would need a still, vacuum punp, and a hotplate.
If you freeze your EC it will start condencing water as soon as it's open so your proof drops every time you open your bottle.
You would need a still, vacuum punp, and a hotplate.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
I've been into distilling for ages and have a few. Retired my old 4L glass bottle one and now use one of those 4L countertop stills for small batches using ISO or ethanol. Then I got a 12L steel still from amazon that sits on a hotplate that can handle naphtha unlike the countertop where the seal soaks up naphtha then blows out. I had to go to the auto store for gasket material to replace the silicon ones that like the other still can't handle the naphtha.
To get clean EtOH I can fractionally distill it in my lab still. Still trying to get a new column in the larger 24/40 bore and a straight vacuum takeoff for the end of the condensor but can work with what I have now. New 2L, 3-neck boiling ball and have a constant feed fitting for one of the necks for large batches. Recently got some other pieces like an 8x8" lab jack for sitting the hotplate and steel bowl of canola oil on to heat it with. Got so much bud in the freezer and just today cropped my outdoor autos so will soon be busy making lots of oil for meds. Now sentenced to 3 weeks in trim jail.
DancesWithWeeds
Well-Known Member
Trim jail should be havw a short sentence this year, There are several of us that share the same gardens with with a fairly good grow. Grasshoppers are distroying my 2 Chocolopes. They are eating the bark from the stocks. Other than that there will be a bunch. We have enough this year that we are only planning to take the larger colas to trim. The rest goes into bubble hash. Each grower will take the bud they want home with them to trim.Now sentenced to 3 weeks in trim jail.
This is my still:
I can't remember the name of the vertical coming off the boiling flask, it's the one used for fractioning. The condener is a Gram. That's the reason for being vertical. If it's on an angle the pressure varys too much pushing it thru the coiled tube. This works good. There is a 500 ML flask next to the boiler. I can reload the boiling flask on the run by just opening a valve to suck it in. I can do that 4 times before I have to emty the boiler. That makes it like a 2 L still. I use recirculating water. Normally I use the big pump but just put my lab pump for the picture.
Most of what I run now is bubble hash. 1/2 oz covered with about 100 ML of EC does the wash with another 100 ML to wash out the filter.
I get about 5 grams of oil per 1/2 oz of keif.
EDIT: 8 grams, not 5.
My plan is to mount the still on the wall like artwork.
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DancesWithWeeds
Well-Known Member
Have you ever tried mineral oil? It's a lot nicer to work with. It cleans up easily and almost no drip when you pull the boiling flask. A real chemist, my future grandson-in-law, started me doing it. It stays really clean and doesn't seem to get rancid like peanut oil.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Then I'm stuck with a big jug of cheap canola oil. Sure as hell ain't gonna eat it. Sounds like a good idea tho and I assume I can probably get mineral oil where paint is sold? I set it up and used water to see how much oil I'd need and it's almost 2L. Still haven't done a run yet and want to clean the new boiling ball with acid and then base before doing an oil run with it.
I went back to school for 3 years in my 30s and got a diploma in environmental chemistry but that was over 30 years ago so forgot 90% of it but doing stuff in the lab was my saving grace as I sucked at the exams.
It takes ages for canola oil to go rancid in deep fryers so should last me a good long time as I'm not getting it that hot. About 250F max if I decarb in the boiling ball before getting it out.
Just chopped my outdoor auto plants a couple days ago and have them hanging in the carport to hopefully dry slow. Time to start cooking!
DancesWithWeeds
Well-Known Member
Oh, no. Don't throw out your conole oil. I didn't junk my penut oil until it started smelling bad. Any drugstore will have meneral oil. Walgreens had it for less than $4 a quart.
Folks, a lot of times, say that can't do a good job because of their oven so I tell them how to do it stovetop with meneral oil. A 1 pint jar works well in this pot with 4 quarts of oil. I use 2 thermometers. One for the oil and one thru the jar lid. The smallest burner on the lowest flame on our stove will hold 170F all day
When you decarb in your boiling ball how do you get it out, a little more alcohol? I usually leave a little alcolol in to be able to pour it out, then decarb in a beaker on the hotplate.
Folks, a lot of times, say that can't do a good job because of their oven so I tell them how to do it stovetop with meneral oil. A 1 pint jar works well in this pot with 4 quarts of oil. I use 2 thermometers. One for the oil and one thru the jar lid. The smallest burner on the lowest flame on our stove will hold 170F all day
When you decarb in your boiling ball how do you get it out, a little more alcohol? I usually leave a little alcolol in to be able to pour it out, then decarb in a beaker on the hotplate.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
I usually do the same and put the beaker in the big toaster oven so I can watch the surface to see when the decarb bubbles stop then give it another 10 min. I don't mind a little CBN in the mix when the THC breaks down. I put a temp probe right beside the beaker to keep track but the oven heat stays pretty steady.
My plan is to decarb in the boiling ball after using naphtha to extract then pour most out, even got a little 24/40 pouring spout to keep the mess down. What doesn't come out on it's own will get flushed with Everclear and that can be used for tincture as I want to make some of that too. Then I don't have to purge that portion to get rid of the ethanol.
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Herb & Suds
Well-Known Member
Herb & Suds
Well-Known Member
I usually get up to 165 with a thumper
Which is pretty good
The reflux is a one trick pony in my eyes
oldsilvertip55
Well-Known Member
i have the cap ,header3in (copper pipe) ,the coil is 1inch copper water line,the coil fits a 55gal. drum this is what i managed to hang on to from 40 years ago. Before the bunch from hollywood ever thought about moonshiners,they leave a lot if stuff out that is important! my copper barrel was swiped a few years back when copper ,went to 4.00 a lb. i hate a ripper.