840w LED lights 15 amp or 20 amp breaker?

Lenin1917

Well-Known Member
Thing makes
You don't need a fancy lighting controller with relay's that cost 100's, unless you want to fork it out. I would suggest you do, because they are pretty nice, but.. You could just run your wires into a small cheaper load center, or sub panel box, etc. Split the 240 back into 120 circuits at the box, just like the lighting controller does, but without all the added stuff.

If your room is literally right next to your main panel, I would still run to a dedicated sub panel just for the grow room equipment myself, but you could just add a few 20 amp 120v breakers going to some outlets instead. Add another new circuit or 2 with cheaper wire, if your not gonna be using that much wire or making a long run anyway...

Make sure you calculate your entire load for your house, and find how much aperage you have to spare before you go adding breakers or anything.
they’re not nearly that expensive, i payed $100 for mine, probably would’ve cost a good bit more for me to fuck up playing electrician lol
 

Bud man 43

Well-Known Member
I am running four 840w grow lights , will need to install new breakers. Should I put each on a separate breaker? Should I use 15a or 20a?
Watts divided by volts equals amps-
At full brightness each light will pull 7 amps At 120v. Test your outlet to see what your voltage is. If it is 110v each light will pull 7.6 amps at full brightness.
A newer 15 amp breaker with 14g wire should be ok but if i were wiring from the panel then 12g with a 20amp breaker is definitely advised.
A 30 amp breaker requires 10g wire $$$ nowadays.
If running 2 circuits run 1 12/4 and split the hot- cheaper than running 2 x 12/2.
 

Bud man 43

Well-Known Member
Watts divided by volts equals amps-
At full brightness each light will pull 7 amps At 120v. Test your outlet to see what your voltage is. If it is 110v each light will pull 7.6 amps at full brightness.
A newer 15 amp breaker with 14g wire should be ok but if i were wiring from the panel then 12g with a 20amp breaker is definitely advised.
A 30 amp breaker requires 10g wire $$$ nowadays.
If running 2 circuits run 1 12/4 and split the hot- cheaper than running 2 x 12/2.
12g always If running 20amp circuit’s - do not put a 15 a breaker in place of a 20- it is likely 14g
 

Bud man 43

Well-Known Member
I cannot tell what size that is but is should say on the package the number and size limit for the conductors- yes if it is the correct size- it likely is ok for qty 2 10g wires
 

Lilmink

Well-Known Member
Got the Helios 11 controller, turns 240v 30amp into 4 120v 20amp outlets. Each outlet being 20amps I assumed I could run two ,
840w lights on each and have two outlets open for AC , dehumidifier etc however the controller specifications say 1000w is the max per outlet 4000w total. Will it explode if I connect to much to it?
 

MidnightSun72

Well-Known Member
Got the Helios 11 controller, turns 240v 30amp into 4 120v 20amp outlets. Each outlet being 20amps I assumed I could run two ,
840w lights on each and have two outlets open for AC , dehumidifier etc however the controller specifications say 1000w is the max per outlet 4000w total. Will it explode if I connect to much to it?
It will probably just trip all the time. Makes sure you fans can run 24/7 not just in the light cycle.
 

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
Probably says that because of the relays and switches might internally cross a 120 with a 240 circuit, and throw off the phase or something. Imbalance the loads?.. Hopefully someone who's an electritian can chime in and explain that part.

I'm guessing they are wired like a subpanel, with the ground screw isolated and what not..

Can you switch the outlets off of control mode, so they are always on, but without the relays being used?
 

Boatguy

Well-Known Member
Also, I know you can run thinner wire if you are going directly from a 20 amp breaker to a single 20 amp receptical. If there are more than one outlets on the same 20 amp (inluding multiple 15 amp outlets!), you need a thicker gauge wire.

That might have something to do with why you can only have 1000w on the 20 amp outlet..
If you dont know the answer you shouldn't guess.

Wires sizes are based on breaker rating regardless of the number of outlets. Breaker ratings should be higher than anticipated loads.
30a at 240 is equal to 60a at 120, so your actual amount of usable amps will be lower than 60 on the 120 side.

You could daisy chain power strips all day and the actual breaker capacity would never change or the current running through your wires
 

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
When I made my grow room sub panel box.. I ran from a double pole 50 amp 240 breaker in the main panel that is outside out to it (via RV plug and cord), and then simply split it in half into 4 120v circuits at the sub panel (4 breakers, 15/15/20/20 in a 70 amp load center box). There are 2 hot wires in my main power cord running to the box, so just separated them by plugging in 120 breakers on each side of the box, instead of putting one double pole 240 back into both, which I could do If I wanted, but takes all the slots.

The circuits all share the same oversized neutral wire, because I ran a 4-wire 30 ft RV extension cord (that cost almost as much as a lighting controller these days lol) into it. All flexible stranded wire inside, 8 ga I think, and is outdoor rated too, sitting right on the ground for years now with no problem. Super nice camco cord! As far as I knew, you Just have to be careful spreading the loads around so you don't mess with the phases (i could be wrong on that) and cause an imbalance, or something I'm not too sure about, other than it works lol. I just know both sides share the same neutral, and you don't want to create multiple paths, and it needed to be bonded at the main but isolated at the sub box if I remember right.. with a bonding screw that either is in or out, depending on the configuration. Also I was right next to the main, so didn't need to run an extra ground rod or anything, I hope ;)



So technically, I have like 2 x 50 amps worth of 120v energy (up to 12,000 watts or more?), all for my little grow trailer, and only use like 2-3 lights worth. 20 amps at the most usually, unless I'm at full perpetual operation, and depending on the season.

I'm hooked up just like at the RV park with 50 amp service, and my even cord wraps up and stores under the RV grow trailer incase I needed to move it somewhere else.. Might say its overkill, but I also run my greenhouse that is next to the trailer sometimes (they work together at times), and can hook up anything I want. Chillers, mini splits, heaters, dehuey's, welders, and even run high amperage power tools to work on more grow rooms and equipment while I grow..

There is always this nagging feeling I have though, that by splitting the wires like that, and sharing a neutral wire i'm screwing with the current in some way, but everything works so I don't trip, and neither has the main breaker ever.

My electrician uncle came out and wanted me to bury lines and whatnot, but I didn't take his advice, and did it my own unqualified way. Why would I bury a 3 wire line to a mobile trailer I thought?
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member
Got the Helios 11 controller, turns 240v 30amp into 4 120v 20amp outlets. Each outlet being 20amps I assumed I could run two ,
840w lights on each and have two outlets open for AC , dehumidifier etc however the controller specifications say 1000w is the max per outlet 4000w total. Will it explode if I connect to much to it?

Why do you think it's four 120v outlets? All the documentation says 240V and you said that in post #69.
 

Drop That Sound

Well-Known Member
You guys wouldn't be sad or laugh if you seen my elite power systems, and trick electrical work in my grow rooms, when I wasn't guessing so much. I'm just baked and shouldn't be giving electrical advice on RIU right now, i agree :D
 
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