BK’s shit show

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Catskillze

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It’s the new pulse pro. The ppfd has been tested and is +/- 5% against the apogee, but the spectrometer has yet to be tested from a third from what I’ve seen yet. All I really wanted was the par meter out of the purchase and I’m content on that for now.
Did you get any more info on the spectrum or try it with a different meter?
 

Catskillze

Member
Hey bro. Sorry to hijack your journal (killer grow btw). Was wondering if you followed up with rocketsoul thinking your spectrum was near 2700k. The reason I ask is I’m in the middle of a 20 or so strip pure 2700k build and am wondering if it’s worth it to add some uvb before the setup and switch. Any advice is appreciated. Searching 2700k brought me to your journal. Thanks again !
 
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bk78

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Hey bro. Sorry to hijack your journal (killer grow btw). Was wondering if you followed up with rocketsoul thinking your spectrum was near 2700k. The reason I ask is I’m in the middle of a 20 or so strip pure 2700k build and am wondering if it’s worth it to add some uvb before the setup and switch. Any advice is appreciated. Searching 2700k brought me to your journal. Thanks again !
I have not. Not really concerned with my spectrum, I’m just a little closet grower so in the big scheme of things 2700-3500k will work for 99% of our applications
 

Rocket Soul

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can I get the explanation on the addition of extra uv
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can I get the explanation on the addition of extra uv
Not sure what you mean here. Ny advice is to add in uv little by little, starting at midday, rather than allday. This is why i mentioned dimmers.


As for catskillz above: 3000k + 660 reds can give you a color temps of 2700k
But it doesnt mean its the same spectrum as 2700k white. You need to look at the spectrums themselves instead of the sticker number. I wouldnt add uvb in your case. If you want to add anything start with some blue and uva on a separate channel. Uvb without any uva tends to burn your crop to crisp.

Will probably be a bit absent from the forum i next bit.
 

Southernontariogrower

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Everything looks spot on once again, just caught up on your thread. Couldnt see where they were fucked, l looked at leaves too, pffft! Nothing wrong there but you know that. Someone mentioning uv, ld use early during veg, they build resistance up then stop using till late bud, and use again. Guy with 2700k build if add 4000k will give more blue and still have full spec. Lights. Your thread always makes my day, weather shitty here too.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Everything looks spot on once again, just caught up on your thread. Couldnt see where they were fucked, l looked at leaves too, pffft! Nothing wrong there but you know that. Someone mentioning uv, ld use early during veg, they build resistance up then stop using till late bud, and use again. Guy with 2700k build if add 4000k will give more blue and still have full spec. Lights. Your thread always makes my day, weather shitty here too.
Ive also heard things about this but not seen hard evidence either way. Imo or actually really guessing: if you wanna runnit allday at least use over 400nm. It will also be photosyntheticly active. UVA: go for around 365 and as per above, maybe even a little bit later in veg if your seeing that shitty mag def bleachy thing. But mainly midday. And if you see to much reaction( too short nodes or smaller leaves) add some far red on the other side of the spectrum.

2700k mixed with 4000k: you could also just add some extra blue by adding a wide blue channel: 450/420/400 and using this to control and get good vegg growth. This would give a more true full spectrum as neither 2700 nor 4000 has any decent coverage below the 440 range.
 

bk78

Well-Known Member
Ive also heard things about this but not seen hard evidence either way. Imo or actually really guessing: if you wanna runnit allday at least use over 400nm. It will also be photosyntheticly active. UVA: go for around 365 and as per above, maybe even a little bit later in veg if your seeing that shitty mag def bleachy thing. But mainly midday. And if you see to much reaction( too short nodes or smaller leaves) add some far red on the other side of the spectrum.

2700k mixed with 4000k: you could also just add some extra blue by adding a wide blue channel: 450/420/400 and using this to control and get good vegg growth. This would give a more true full spectrum as neither 2700 nor 4000 has any decent coverage below the 440 range.
I decided to try and plug the UV pucks in yesterday to see how they reacted, went down to check them about 3 hours later and the leaves were definitely having a reaction and starting to cup and the serrated edges were raising.

Kiboshed that plan
 

Catskillze

Member
Ive also heard things about this but not seen hard evidence either way. Imo or actually really guessing: if you wanna runnit allday at least use over 400nm. It will also be photosyntheticly active. UVA: go for around 365 and as per above, maybe even a little bit later in veg if your seeing that shitty mag def bleachy thing. But mainly midday. And if you see to much reaction( too short nodes or smaller leaves) add some far red on the other side of the spectrum.

2700k mixed with 4000k: you could also just add some extra blue by adding a wide blue channel: 450/420/400 and using this to control and get good vegg growth. This would give a more true full spectrum as neither 2700 nor 4000 has any decent coverage below the 440 range.
Thanks for the advice guys. After 8 or so frosties last night I splurged on 4 of these. 2 for each 2x4 build of the eb3 2700k 90 cri. I’m retiring my old 2700 80cri 20 strip build and the main reason I was wondering about the extra blue was to control the stretch a bit and help with transpiration during the winter months. They’ll be on their own channel with a dimmer but now after reading bk’s response to the uv’s I’m wondering if I should have just went with the 450 blue strips https://growdaddyleds.com/products/uv-booster-385nm-400nm-96-led-sun-board-grow-strip
 
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